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Found 28 results

  1. Want 4 stock steel wheels 13 x 5, Lemmerz or Kronprinz (shown below) to replace my newer, bottlecap style 14 x 6's. Seattle area.
  2. Sample's face stamped: 3/69 (March 1969) Lemmerz 1444 5J x 14
  3. Although the majority of stock steel rims appear to have been manufactured by Lemmerz, stock steel rims were also supplied by Kronprinz and Suedrad, two other German rim manufacturers. BMW part numbers for the 5x13 styled-steel rims are 36111112631 (Lemmerz), 36111112452 (Kronprinz), and 36111112604 (Suedrad). Below, an example date May 1975 (“5” over “75”).
  4. These photos are just placeholders until I, or someone else, can provide good photos of square taillight stock rims, by Lemmerz. Although the majority of stock steel rims appear to have been manufactured by Lemmerz, stock steel rims were also supplied by Kronprinz and SRD. BMW part numbers for the 5x13 styled-steel rims are 36111112452 (Kronprinz?), 36111112631 (Lemmerz?), and 36111112605 (Lemmerz).
  5. Although the majority of stock steel rims appear to have been manufactured by Lemmerz, stock steel rims were also supplied by Kronprinz and SRD. BMW part number for the 4.5x13 steel rims is 36111117321. Dates noted include 11/72.
  6. Although the majority of stock steel rims appear to have been manufactured by Lemmerz, stock steel rims were also supplied by Kronprinz and Suedrad, two other German rim manufacturers. BMW part numbers for the 5x13 styled-steel rims are 36111112631 (Lemmerz), 36111112452 (Kronprinz), and 36111112604 (Suedrad). SRD appears to be a frequent stamped abbreviation for Suedrad. Below is a July 1975 ("7/75") example.
  7. Although the majority of stock steel rims appear to have been manufactured by Lemmerz, stock steel rims were also supplied by Kronprinz and SRD. BMW part number for the 4.5x13 steel rims is 36111117321. The 4.5” rim was standard equipment on all 1600 and 2002 models from March 1966 through July 1973, with the exception of ti and tii sub-models.
  8. Although the majority of stock steel rims appear to have been manufactured by Lemmerz, stock steel rims were also supplied by Kronprinz and SRD. BMW part number for the 5x13 steel rims is 36111116610. The 5” rim was standard equipment on the 2002ti (late 1968 to early 1971) and the 2000tii and 2002tii (early 1971 through July 1973).
  9. Although the majority of stock steel rims appear to have been manufactured by Lemmerz, stock steel rims were also supplied by Kronprinz and SRD. BMW part number for the 5x13 steel rims is 36111116610.
  10. Edit: After cleaning the garage a bit today, I've just decided to get rid of them. If you are local to the Phoenix, AZ area they are absolutely free to a good home. I rather someone get some use out of them rather than toss them. I just need the space. My 2002 came with these funky, mismatched stock front seats. I swapped in Recaro buckets, and have no need for them. The tan seat is dirty, and has some sag in the rear leather of the seat, but is in otherwise good shape. The green/tan seat is also in good shape. Both work mechanically well. Rails are not included.
  11. My 2002 was swapped to 5x120 by the previous owner, and I'm in the process of collecting parts to put it back to 4x100 to run my BBS RS wheels. I've been doing some digging but haven't found a definitive answer on this, so I figured I'd throw both of my questions out there. What is the stock wheel stud length on a 2002? I noticed IE sells a few longer options, but doesn't note what a stock replacement part would be. Do you need extended lugs for an RS (15x7 et25 fitment)? If so, how much longer do I need, that will still clear underneath the waffle? I would assume they don't need these, as this is widely considered ideal fitment for 2002s. Figured I'd get all my ducks in a row, instead of guessing and having to cut studs that are too long. Thanks in advance!
  12. I have the two front seats and the rear seat out of a 1974 2002. The seats are in fair condition cosmetically and were operating well when I took them out a few years ago. I don't really see many other seats to price these off of so if I am way off make me an offer. I'd prefer not to ship them but if your willing to pay to ship them I can look into it.
  13. Just about to put in a used turn signal stock and I was wondering if you should be able to cancel the turn signal by just moving the stock by hand? The used one I got here doesn't. That seems wrong... Can someone kindly let me know?. Regards
  14. Price:: 50 Location: : Portland I have for sale an intake manifold that I picked up along with a head. I have since sold the head, and have no need for a manifold that I am not planning on using. The previous owner painted it black. I've never used it nor seen it run, but it appears to be in good condition. sold as is, shipping can be arranged if theres interest.
  15. So my engine is starting to really drink some oil. I'd say a quart every 500mi, blue smoke on deceleration, fouled black spark plugs, etc. I figure my valve guides are pretty worn out. I talked to my guy about rebuilding the engine - 292 cam, 38/38, 9.5:1 compression, shorty headers, etc. We figure she'd be up to 130 ponies. However, I would likely then need to upgrade the brakes and suspension which would add another $4k to the build. I don't exactly have $10k+ burning a hole in my pocket, when all my car does is burn some oil. I was thinking I could do a more economical rebuild, but the whole "while you're in there" is getting to me. The car is a toy and I probably spend 60% of the time carving country roads and 40% of the time driving with the girlfriend on trips. My biggest gripes with the car are 1) It burns oil and loves to stink, 2) It's brutal on the highway for long drives @4800 RPMs 3) She could probably use some paint and body work - but that's easily another $10k hole I could fall into. I know 38/38s don't really sit well on stock engines, and require the better compression and hotter cam. I suppose if I rebuild the engine stock(ish) I could forgo having to beef up the brakes and put that money towards a 5 speed instead and be happy with my sync-linked 32/36. Even if I did drop $10k on engine, suspension and brakes I would feel guilty that she has some rust spots on the windshield and the engine bay looks fugly. Curious to hear the joint wisdom of you all and what you might suggest.
  16. After getting my ignition system dialed, I am now onto my brake system. Initially by car would pull to the left and vacuum assist rarely worked. I inspected the brakes and found a sticking caliper on the front right hand side so I decided to refresh the brakes by. 1.replacing front calipers and pads 2.replacing rear wheel cylinders 3.adjusting the rear shoes 4.replacing the vacuum line from intake to brake booster (with proper vacuum hose 12x19mm) 5. I also power bled the system 6.I tested the Vacuum Booster to make sure it held vacuum and also that there was no sign of fluid leakage from the master cylinder. All seemed good as test drove it to seat the pads and the when I needed a quick stop it gave me a really hard pedal as if the brake booster wasn't working. Before you say it the one way inline check valve is installed correctly with the arrow pointing towards the intake manifold. So at this point I can't count on my brakes to work in an emergency situation. When the pedal gets hard is I let it out and push back down on it I do get my vacuum boost. I am kinda stumped at this point. I also tested the one way inline valve with my vacuum gauge and it held vacuum when on the booster side and let vacuum through when on the manifold side. I also have good vacuum on the manifold, about 20"hg at idle. What am I missing here? I am confident that there is no air in the lines because I don't have a spongy pedal that firms up if I pump it. The only 2 things left that I can think of are that the master cylinder is random binding up internally or that the one way check valve is randomly leaking under fluctuating conditions. Tell me what you think I missed. BTW I don't think my car has a proportioning valve or pressure differential valve. It is a 1971 base with stock brakes.
  17. Hey all, Looking for either a nice, stock 74 steering wheel for a tii, or something aftermarket like a nice Petri, Momo, Nardi, or a e21 320iS steering wheel. What do you have? I'm located in Huntington Beach, Ca. Thanks, Ryan
  18. The diff on my '73 is starting to die. Looking for a good used replacement. Need the stock 3.64 unit. Preferably in/around the Atlanta area, but I'm willing to pay for shipping if it's not too outrageous (think Greyhound, etc). Thanks, Garrett
  19. I have a stock 3.64 rear diff that I just pulled out of my 74 2002. Looking to upgrade to an e21 3.91 rear. So a trade would be ideal with cash on top, the driveshaft as well. If you just want the diff I'm asking $250 and $100 for the driveshaft I am in temple city, ca I would like to do this locally but if shipping is necessary I can get over it
  20. Looking for longer rear end flanges! 1976 car only, for some reason those were longer then all the other years....
  21. SOLD to Alpinaguru! Found a pair of hub caps that came stock on my now deceased 1973 2002 tii, They are missing the roundel emblems, but figured someone out there might like these before I turn them into clocks. Let me know if you have any questions.
  22. Looking for some 2002 seats. I am in the process of purchasing a 1976 and I would like the correct seats. It comes with two new cheap racing seats that have hardly been used. Hoping to find something in between St. Louis, MO and Denver, CO. Color is not critical, and they certainly do not have to be perfect. Regards, Travis


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