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Found 55 results

  1. $200 + shipping
  2. I have been struggling with one part of my front subframe/suspension rebuild for a few weeks - the steering idler arm bushing. Getting the old one out was tough enough, but that was nothing compared to finding a replacement part. I wish I had researched more beforehand to understand the options for owners of early cars with the 29mm idler arm bushings before I pounded the old ones out and destroyed them. It's well documented on this forum that the bushing part # 32211115116 is not suitable for early cars and no amount of "soaping" or other lube will ease it into the tube. The blue plastic cladding is just too larger diameter. If you order the other bushing listed, part # 32212475055, you'll likely get a bushing that is metal clad like the original part you destroyed on removal, and the right diameter (29mm) but way too long. The forum has numerous reports of this happening from all the reputable suppliers - the BMW parts listings are flat out wrong. Luckily, the diameter of the idler arm itself appears to have remained the same when the sub frames switch from early to late styles. Here are your options: Option 1) Leave the original parts in situ. If they ain't broke, don't fix 'em. Protect them from the sand blaster and mask them off for powder coating. Option 2) Find some NOS original parts and do a like for like replacement. If you find a source for the original part, please let the forum know! I can tell you that Walloth & Nesch do not have them at the time of writing. They will send you the wrong part. Option 3) Junk your early style front subframe and source one of the later ones, and safely order part # 32211115116 with the blue plastic cladding. Option 4) Keep your early subframe, purchase part # 32212475055 and find a way to trim it to length. See below for measurements. Option 5) This next option is rumoured to work, but I have not tested it personally. Keep your early subframe, remove only the inner bushing sleeve and rubber, leaving the metal cladding in place and unmarred. Cross your fingers, order part # 32211115116 with the blue plastic cladding, and remove the blue plastic cladding. Apparently 32211115116 with the blue plastic cladding removed can be satisfactorily pressed into the original metal cladding still left in your subframe. Option 6) I got a little deep into this.. and the next option shows. Find a idler bushing of similar/same dimensions from a different application and give it a whirl. If you're looking at US domestic alternatives, bushing outer diameter of 1.14 inches and inner diameter 0.625 inches are the keys. See below for measurements. I tried all the usual Euro brands (myele, Sachs, boge, lemforder, etc) without success. It's likely there is a Euro alternative, but finding dimensions was impossible. However, heavy scrutiny of the Moog parts diagrams and dimensions turned up part # K8139 which is an idler arm bushing used on some 1964-65 Ford Fairlanes. They show up on ebay regularly as NOS and I'm sure some of you domestic car guys could easily run down a set. They're cheap too. Option 7) What did I go with? Ha. None of the above! In my frustration, I started looking at what I had on hand. I bought a complete set of urethane bushings for the suspension rebuild but didn't bother to replace the stock bushings in the new control arms. What do you know... one of the unused urethane bushings is OD 29mm... and ID 16mm. The metal inserts/sleeve were too long, and the bushing flange height was too thick to be useful. They were front control arm bushing 64047 and sleeve 60645 from kit 3201 by Prothane Suspension and could be adapted to fit (reduce length of sleeves, reduce height of flange) but it got me thinking... 30 minutes later I purchase a set of Energy Suspension bushings, part # 9.9111G, of ebay for $8 including shipping. Got them delivered in two days. Fitted like a glove! So, those are the options I am aware of. The critical dimensions of the ORIGINAL bushings follows. Your replacement part doesn't need to be exact in all respects (such as collar length), but it will get you close: Idler tube length: 88mm Idler tube ID: 29mm Idler arm OD: 16mm Idler arm shaft from shoulder to split pin hole: 105mm Idler arm shaft from shoulder to end: 112mm Idler bushing OD: 29mm Idler bushing metal insert ID: 16mm Idler bushing collar length: 27mm Idler bushing metal insert length (single insert): 49mm Idler bushing metal insert total length (two inserts, end on end): 98mm Idler bushing flange height: 5mm Here are the original stock parts: Here is what you'll get if you order 32212475055: Here's what I fitted: And here it is fitted: No miles on them yet. I suppose I should report back in a few months when my car is back on the road.
  3. After test driving the car in California, I knew there was a few things that I would have to take care of right away when the car arrived home. Primarily with the throttle pedal. The car has an E30 G260 5 speed, which required the transmission tunnel to be widened. The result was a stock throttle pedal that absolutely did not fit anymore. I struggled to press it, and broke it clean off not 30 seconds after the car had arrived home. I ordered an Ireland Engineering aluminum throttle pedal, a kit they sell to address these issues. I simply cut out the stock pedal bracket, and bolted this pedal in. The pedal pushes against a roller bearing on the throttle rod, and engages incredibly smoothly. 10/10, best modification I’ll ever do to this car. Mainly because I can actually drive it properly now. I also ordered a steering hub adapter from IE, as I had a Renown 100 sitting around from my E30. The stock wheel was in decent shape, but a little too big for my taste. Unfortunately the 100 sticks out way too far on this hub, so I’ll likely need to swap to a Monaco. Otherwise it looks fantastic. Before the car was shipped to me, the previous owner spun up the coilovers so nothing was damaged getting on and off the truck. So I took some time to spin everything back down. I discovered the car is sitting on true-rear coilovers, but has no reinforcement on the rear shock towers. So I’ll be tackling that pretty quickly as well. I’ve only had the car for about a week now, so there wasn't a lot to report right off the bat. Fortunately I can say there will be future updates on this car, I have parts coming in and some goals to hit this year.
  4. I opened up the steering box for cleaning and rebuild today. I've been doing a bit of reading through old threads about the internals before doing this, but I wanted to know what your thoughts were on these. Should I reassemble with these or is it time for another box?
  5. Good condition Momo Italy steering comes with adapter Has horn button Came off a 1976 BMW 2002 Steering wheel is $300 new just looking to get something out of it, friend went back to factory wheel Willing to ship Call or text 217-653-8566
  6. Steering column assembly. $25 obo. Available for pick up or will ship for cost to buyer.
  7. $50 + shipping retails for $350 (see 2nd picture)
  8. 35cm *original hub *original horn button *original horn contact *original hub cover (not broken) *original grip (firm grip, not loose) $900 + shipping
  9. $150 + shipping
  10. $1800 shipped message me if interested
  11. $400 shipped
  12. Hi! Recently had all stock springs swapped for IE stage 1. Before that, the car steered well and ran pretty straight (minus the usual on-center vagueness/play in the steering wheel). Now, after the springs were replaced (by a mechanic who I've trusted—so far) and have settled, the car doesn't want to drive straight after I make a hard turn (e.g. getting out of garage). It'll bind to that side until make an equally strong counter steer movement. The car is drivable, just requires steering force on the wheel to keep it centered. I hear (tried searching the forums) that the primary cause for that could be some sort of bushing having been put back in the wrong way when the shock was re-assembled? How can I go about investigating this? And, dumb question: will I be able to remedy without needing an alignment job again afterwards? Thinking I want to put it back on my mechanic to fix it. Thanks much! Erik
  13. Pulled from a 1971 car. $35 plus shipping, will fit in a small flat box so it's ~$8
  14. Bolts to secure steering knuckle to strut - wire locking Part # 32211113178 6 required per car brand new, OEM #15 in the 2nd picture $80 shipped
  15. $150 shipped Steering lock assembly 32321113711 NLA Steering column tube 32311110904
  16. The Steering box on my car is difficult to turn at the middle of its' swing. I can turn the coupling bracket by hand through the rough parts, but it does not do the full sweep when pushing the arm. It is disconnected from the center link. The steering wheel needed larger back and forth adjustments at interstate speeds so I suspect I need to address this. I read the worm gear is likely worn- who can I send this to? Is this a repair by replacement thing? Should I just drive it? Thanks,
  17. cpdenby


    Price:: 100 Location: : Ontario Canada Wanted new home for a 1971 Nardi Wood Wheel with both course and fine thread hubs (for newer BMW's). Also have a wooden shift knob to boot (pun not intended) I am only a gmail away
  18. parting out a 1976 bmw 2002/2002 tii all original and lots of good parts, just ask. front and back blinker lights sold grill sold left light sold martin 925 528 8102 [email protected]<script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script>
  19. Bought new 2 years ago from 9and3wheels. Condition is immaculate. Has always been cleaned and kept scratch free. Will come with original bags from purchase. Nardi mahogany wood steering wheel with concave spokes also known as Deep Corn. The wheel has smooth finished mahogany wooden grips, black anodized spokes, and includes a Nardi horn button. Spoke: Black anodized Color: Mahogany Wood Horn: Type A Dish: Yes Depth: 53mm Diameter: 330 mmPrice:$270 shipped CONUS (willing to ship outside US, message for details)
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