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Found 9 results

  1. With the car back safely in my shed, I wanted to start the reassembly in a fairly logical manner. The doors, bonnet and bootlid had all been off for paint so they needed to be realigned. I had read on the FAQ that the gap between the bonnet and the upper part of the doors needed to be matched to the gap at the bootlid to the rear quarters so the boot / trunk seemed to be the logical place to start. I started by removing the bootlid again, the body shop had made an attempt at lid alignment but hadn't got it quite right. I also wanted it out of the way for ease of reassembly so I started by stripping the car further. In went the cleaned and repainted fuel tank along with a new o ring for the sender. Didn't especially have problems with fuel smells but I like things to be buttoned down tight and they are only cheap. I used a strip of self adhesive EPDM seal section around the outside of the tank aperture in the floor before bolting it down and connecting the fuel hose and wiring. I completed a permanent install of the wiring for my third brake light by soldering in a splice to the brake light wiring and adding a new ground connection to the inner panel of the rear quarter. I also scraped and cleaned the boot ground point under the trunk board of the lovingly applied paint and primer. A new self tapping screw and star washer to finish that along with a dab of copper based grease. The wiring loom was re-wrapped in places and installed into the folding tabs. The cleaned and re-sealed tail lights were installed and connected up. Replacement triangular covers added ( thanks to Roundeie - Ben for them) to finish them off. I replaced the piece of vinyl installed on the flat panel between the wheel wells as well as the weird strips that only cover the bottom couple of inches of the inner arches. In went the recovered floor panels and the only things left to do is secure the tank board with screws (I want to get some cup washers) and fit a boot carpet by Esty. Prior to taking the car off the road I mocked up a hidden speaker installation for the hat shelf. The holes for 6"x9" speakers were already present but I cut a 3/4" thick piece of MDF to match the underside of the shelf. This was painted satin black and the speakers were secured to the bottom of the board. The board was then subsequently screwed to the bottom of the shelf with screws from above. I cut a new hat shelf board from Masonite by carefully scribing around the old one. Into this I cut holes to match the speakers and painted the board black. To support the speaker cloth that I was eventually to cover the board with I added some metal fly screen mesh over the holes. This was glued on the back side after being formed to be flush on the outside using the cut out pieces of Masonite. The speaker cloth was then stretched over the board, temporarily secured using the bull dog clips I originally bought for headliner replacement (used for countless other small trim jobs now) and glued down with contact cement. This will be finally installed along with my new headliner and rear inertia seat belts (stay tuned for that one). A new Uro boot seal which disappointingly did not seal the boot as the seal is the wrong shape and does not have the right upstand to the sealing lip to actually contact the lid. I was prepared for this after reading a few posts on the FAQ so added another, larger EPDM seal to the underside of the lid. Seals perfectly now though still annoying. The seal is a little tricky to install but I went around the perimeter in 4" sections giving both seal and body a thin scrape of 3M weatherstrip adhesive, waiting for it to go tacky on both before pressing into place. A few minutes secured with more bulldog clips (bigger this time) before I felt confident enough in the adhesive to move on elsewhere. The last corner was the hardest since this needed a slight stretch into position but this got the whole night with the bulldog clips in place. The whole thing was well secured in the morning. Fuel tank in place and test fit of new hat shelf board Boards in and vinyl complete. The back side of the speaker board showing the cut out used to form the screen mesh Mesh secured and prior to speaker cloth. Test fit over the underside board with the speakers. Semi artistic shot of a refitted tail light. Might make this my Avatar.
  2. It's been a while since an update, and I'm happy to say we haven't been idle. There's a few new parts I've developed and released, now on the website and into the hands of fellow enthusiasts. Hoping to both share the news and maybe gain some feedback/insight into what else might be needed and desired...as I often times am most inspired to create parts that fill a void in the market both style and function-wise. Here are a few of the recent offerings: replacement under dash panels with accommodation for a deep 5-1/4" coaxial speakers (sold with or without speakers) Center console insert/shifter surround with dual cup holder (works with factory style shift boot, sold with or without leather shift boot) center console gauge/switch/radio panel, houses standard 52mm/2-1/8" gauges (even ones with oversized bezels) that are angled upwards and towards the driver (for LHD) below them is an area for hazard switch/aux function switches (that does not require extending the wire harness) & a lower location for a shaft style factory radio or an aftermarket DIN sized radio. aluminum (brushed, polished or satin black) and wood (or leather) e-brake handle "upgrade kit" with matching leather brake leaver and shifter boots (full details and descriptions/pricing at www.kooglewerks.com)
  3. Pair in excellent condition includes Priority Shipping 38.00
  4. Price:: 175.00 / set Location: : 45103 After several years of making the kick panels that accept 2" deep speakers without cutting the car, I have finally gotten around to fab'ing and making molds for a set that easily accommodate significantly more speaker depth. They aren't nearly as discrete as the original v1 kick panels, and in fact, these make them look small. But, these aren't so obvious as to look disturbingly large or modern in a 2002.. I am very happy with the final product! In the pictures below, I have installed monsterous 6.75" diameter speakers with a mounting depth of 2.5" with zero clearance issues. A more 'modest' solution would be a higher line (deeper mounting depth, bigger magnet) 5.25 or 6" speaker.. Also, and more importantly, my car has been cut, and measuring off of that added space, I figure that a serious 3-3.5" mounting depth is absolutely doable.. The design also provides room for a tweeter, and tilts the speakers about 1/2" back to front, and rotated up toward the driver seat. These accept the carpet covers for the original kick panels that are made by Esty, but I will be sending a set off to her to look at.. so as before, if you are ordering a full set of carpet from her, she will sub in the kick panel covers free of charge, or they can be ordered separately. I will be adding this v2.0 kick panel to the Bolt-onBliss digital store front found in my signature, but feel free to contact me here if you are interested in the first run of these babies.
  5. After a long, arduous process, I am pleased to announce that the the first two paid orders are shipping within the week! So its finally game on!! To compliment the 'no cut' and discrete front speaker kick panels and under-seat sub enclosure, the hat tray piece looks like rear seat head rests to the untrained eye.. but provides just the right amount of focused fill, with speakers firing at your ears, not the window. And as with the in-cabin sub enclosure, you're not pumping tunes into your trunk for the world to hear! - Keeping the sound pressure where it matters. With this kit, audio clarity and separation are amazing, particularly when considering the year of the car and its original equipment options. There are several here who can attest to this fact. I had quite a few guys take a listen while I was down at Mid-America. This enclosure has turned out to be the perfect compliment, and finishing piece, to the first two offerings that I have been producing for several years. All you need are two speaker wires run under the back seat, plug them in, plop the enclosure on top of your existing shelf board, and go. No cutting, no labor $ spent at a shop on time that you can't get back, etc. With that I say, "BOB's yer uncle.." The system is complete! I hope it is well received. message me here, or go through the store front below. Party on. http://boltonbliss.bigcartel.com/product/hat-tray-speaker-enclosure
  6. Has anyone done a speaker in the rear door card replacing the ashtrays? I saw one where speakers were added next to the ashtrays but not as a replacement. No one that I know smokes so they are worthless to me other than a relic of the good old times.... Anyone post pictures and the largest size that fits? Thanks!
  7. What have you done for a sound system in your 2002? I'm getting ready to buy something to install into the 2002, but have never dealt with a working sound system in these cars. I've ripped them out, but never put one in. What I'm after: -Simple bluetooth receiver headunit powerful enough to handle four speakers. -6x9" in the rear parcel shelf? -2 more speakers in the front somewhere, preferably hidden and not visible (not in the front footwells). Again, something basic but non-invasive. I will even try to hide the bluetooth head unit. I don't want to see it, but want to be able to access it if necessary. Has this been on someone's agenda recently? I want to budget no more than $500 for components. I would think that today's head units can power the speakers efficiently without the need for a crossover or amp. Or should I add bass under the passenger rear seat a la eurotrash? I need guidance. Thank you, Ryan
  8. Price:: 150.00 Location: : Cincinnati, Ohio $150 is the audio kit pricing, and free shipping! (That's around $40 off..!) http://boltonbliss.bigcartel.com/product/bmw-2002-speaker-kick-panels
  9. Project Scope Creep......... It seems that I need to be forward thinking with my "interior" project and plan for speakers. I will not be putting speakers back in the doors. The panels in the link below seem to be a very nice option for front speakers. I have an old set of speakers in the rear deck, hoping they work. http://www.bmw2002fa...-sub-enclosure/ I've seen 1 set of pictures of these in a car and I'd like to see more if anyone else has these installed. It looks very clean. My initial concern is the location. Might these speakers get kicked? Any experience would be a great. Questions: Ease of installation? Potential speaker damage due to the location? Recommended speakers? Not looking for huge sound and they can't break the bank, 5.25" or 6" Stuart


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