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Found 9 results

  1. While we have driven my 73 tii a bit this summer with the revised the ride-height, suspension and wheels tires; the motor was not quite right. Performance was down and Jacob Marley was rattling the timing chains. In late September, my chief mechanic and brother Chris decided for various reasons to pull the motor, drop the sub-frame and transmission. This was going to give us the opportunity to clean up the engine bay, revise any questionable wiring, totally clean the accumulated oil and grease and make any repairs prior to repainting the engine bay in Atlantic. This will resolve the issues around painting the engine bay when the car was to be painted this winter. (The hoist he put in his garage a couple of years back has been a great investment.) While the motor has been out, the timing chain and oil pump chain and sprocket were replaced; after the timing marks, including the K-fischer pump, were painted in yellow. We suspect that Scrooge’s late partner was rattling the oil pump chain as there was a full knuckle’s slack and back stagger in the alignment with the oil pump sprocket. The stagger was from the sprocket which had been attached with the spacer between it and the nut in front causing wear on the back side of the teeth. Chris found the correct answer on the FAQ, the spacer goes behind the sprocket and the planets were now aligned. While the motor is sitting on the stand, we replaced all of the Kugelfischer hoses with Ireland silicone items. Replacing these would have been ‘difficult’ if the motor was in the engine bay. The Oil pan was in need of paint, so it was removed, stripped and repainted as were the sides of the block. The oil pan was clean of metal and the crank looked fine. Crank and bearings looked good, so these were not disturbed. We have also attached a new Sanden 509 AC Compressor on a Hobie Dave Bracket. The AC will be new items under the hood flowing to a Behr Evaporator and Console. The car had a Frigiking unit with a Sanden compressor that had a packed up clutch on a heavy dealer bracket. As the Frigiking lines run dead center over the transmission, we are going to seal these up, clean up the metal and paint. The lines for a Behr run a few inches to the right of the heater box (also being rebuilt). We are taking many suggestions from Rob Siegel’s book and will use hose fittings on the firewall rather than running the AC lines straight through the firewall. Now to what’s behind the curtain where Carol Merrill is standing….. The old firewall padding was pulled away revealing a rust area above the pedal box that had been partially patched from behind. There is a bit of surface rust all along the firewall with bits of the foam and glue residue. The firewall matt has been the perfect sponge to hold water against the firewall for the last 45 years. I figured that somewhere in the project, there was going to be a rust surprise, here it was. Left unnoticed it would have been a nastier surprise sometime next year when the pedal box would have begun to flex. I now know why the engine was so loud. Pedal box rebuild and shift linkage kits were ordered. This will also lead to the pedals, pedal box, brake booster and support getting cleaned and painted. Fortunately, Chris has a 72tii project (0440 – Colorado) which entailed the acquisition of a couple of parts cars. One of these is a ’74 carburetor that is slowly returning to nature but the piece of the firewall above the pedal box was sound. So a patch was made with this cut of firewall flank steak and pedal box surround was cut from 16 gauge steel. And the patch is welded in and primed and surrounded in 3M paintable sealant. We also put down the sealant in all of the crevices where water likes to collect and sit on both sides. The sealant excess will be cut away and after it is painted over will blend it and keep the water out of the seams. Inner Fender cleaned up. Note the bead of 3M sealant where the inner fender and the frame rail meet. This was done throughout to eliminate the collection spots. The Firewall repaired with POR rust converter on the surface where water collected behind the firewall padding. (In the background is one of the two parts cars.) Primed Firewall. The 2 new vertical holes are for the firewall fitting for AC lines. System will use Behr Evaporator and Console. Two holes over the transmission were from the earlier Frigiking AC and these will be plugged. The Painted Inner Fender. The garage lighting and the camera flash makes the color appear lighter than it actually is. In the sunlight, the color compares well with an original Glasurit paint chip book. Engine Bay ready to sit for at least a week before we start re-assembly. We have a new factory firewall pad and the various gaskets and clips. Throttle linkage is being upgraded with one of Harry’s play-less Pull Rods, new return spring and bushings. This will also be the time to sort out the wiring and add the wires for the new air conditioning. Other items to tackle before the engine comes back include replacing the parking brake cables and the rear transmission mount. 02 FAQ Blog on firewall.docx
  2. From the album: In it's natural state!

    Here is a repair to the right rear shock tower in the '75 granatrot.

    © Beattyandco

  3. Even though a car looks good when you get a hold of it, gremlins often lurk underneath. Considering these cars were not galvanized, rust is unavoidable, even on a desert car. I was preparing to clearance the rear wheel wells for the flares, when I started poking around. Go looking for trouble and you'll find it. After the screw driver went into the rocker a couple of times, I knew I would have to get into them a repair the rust. I also ended up repairing a rust spot on under the driver's rear quarter that had formed under the sound deadening material, literally on the vertical body panel. Upon Further investigation. The first cuts and inspection. My body working tools are pretty crude - a grinder, welder, body hammers, etc. - but they work. I hand formed some new rocker panels and welded them in, after making sure the rust was not further into the rockers and rust encapsulating the rockers since I was in there already. Patching the rocker near the front door jamb. Metal finishing. and more metal finishing What else is lurking under there? The fenders revealed their secrets after removal and making the cuts for the flares. closer inspection or the rear area of the fenders. Making a template for the patch. The result shot with some zinc weld thru primer. On another note, a great replacement for the hard to find body mounting screws used to attach the fenders and brake reservoir, is to go to a salvage yard and pull the Torx bit body mount screws from the fenders of e36's, e46, and many modern BMW's. They are usually in good shape, can be scuffed and painted to match your car's body work, are cheap if not free. (The salvage yard I go to just gave them to me, and have the same depth and thread pitch as the originals body mount screws. I think they offer a cleaner look too.
  4. While we have driven my 73 tii a bit this summer with the revised the ride-height, suspension and wheels tires; the motor was not quite right. Performance was down and Jacob Marley was rattling the timing chains. In late September, my chief mechanic and brother Chris decided for various reasons to pull the motor, drop the sub-frame and transmission. This was going to give us the opportunity to clean up the engine bay, revise any questionable wiring, totally clean the accumulated oil and grease and make any repairs prior to repainting the engine bay in Atlantic. This will resolve the issues around painting the engine bay when the car was to be painted this winter. (The hoist he put in his garage a couple of years back has been a great investment.) While the motor has been out, the timing chain and oil pump chain and sprocket were replaced; after the timing marks, including the K-fischer pump, were painted in yellow. We suspect that Scrooge’s late partner was rattling the oil pump chain as there was a full knuckle’s slack and back stagger in the alignment with the oil pump sprocket. The stagger was from the sprocket which had been attached with the spacer between it and the nut in front causing wear on the back side of the teeth. Chris found the correct answer on the FAQ, the spacer goes behind the sprocket and the planets were now aligned. While the motor is sitting on the stand, we replaced all of the Kugelfischer hoses with Ireland silicone items. Replacing these would have been ‘difficult’ if the motor was in the engine bay. The Oil pan was in need of paint, so it was removed, stripped and repainted as were the sides of the block. The oil pan was clean of metal and the crank looked fine. Crank and bearings looked good, so these were not disturbed. We have also attached a new Sanden 509 AC Compressor on a Hobie Dave Bracket. The AC will be new items under the hood flowing to a Behr Evaporator and Console. The car had a Frigiking unit with a Sanden compressor that had a packed up clutch on a heavy dealer bracket. As the Frigiking lines run dead center over the transmission, we are going to seal these up, clean up the metal and paint. The lines for a Behr run a few inches to the right of the heater box (also being rebuilt). We are taking many suggestions from Rob Siegel’s book and will use hose fittings on the firewall rather than running the AC lines straight through the firewall. Now to what’s behind the curtain where Carol Merrill is standing….. The old firewall padding was pulled away revealing a rust area above the pedal box that had been partially patched from behind. There is a bit of surface rust all along the firewall with bits of the foam and glue residue. The firewall matt has been the perfect sponge to hold water against the firewall for the last 45 years. I figured that somewhere in the project, there was going to be a rust surprise, here it was. Left unnoticed it would have been a nastier surprise sometime next year when the pedal box would have begun to flex. I now know why the engine was so loud. Pedal box rebuild and shift linkage kits were ordered. This will also lead to the pedals, pedal box, brake booster and support getting cleaned and painted. Fortunately, Chris has a 72tii project (0440 – Colorado) which entailed the acquisition of a couple of parts cars. One of these is a ’74 carburetor that is slowly returning to nature but the piece of the firewall above the pedal box was sound. So a patch was made with this cut of firewall flank steak and pedal box surround was cut from 16 gauge steel. And the patch is welded in and primed and surrounded in 3M paintable sealant. We also put down the sealant in all of the crevices where water likes to collect and sit on both sides. The sealant excess will be cut away and after it is painted over will blend it and keep the water out of the seams. Inner Fender cleaned up. Note the bead of 3M sealant where the inner fender and the frame rail meet. This was done throughout to eliminate the collection spots. The Firewall repaired with POR rust converter on the surface where water collected behind the firewall padding. (In the background is one of the two parts cars.) Primed Firewall. The 2 new vertical holes are for the firewall fitting for AC lines. System will use Behr Evaporator and Console. Two holes over the transmission were from the earlier Frigiking AC and these will be plugged. The Painted Inner Fender. The garage lighting and the camera flash makes the color appear lighter than it actually is. In the sunlight, the color compares well with an original Glasurit paint chip book. Engine Bay ready to sit for at least a week before we start re-assembly. We have a new factory firewall pad and the various gaskets and clips. Throttle linkage is being upgraded with one of Harry’s play-less Pull Rods, new return spring and bushings. This will also be the time to sort out the wiring and add the wires for the new air conditioning. Other items to tackle before the engine comes back include replacing the parking brake cables and the rear transmission mount. 02 FAQ Blog on firewall.docx View full article
  5. Are you cutting up a parts car? I am looking for the following body parts: Passenger front floor pan. Drivers rear floor pan. Floor pan under the spare tire and trunk. Drivers left front cab corner (where the wire harness meets the firewall). Drivers side metal under the rear bench seat (behind the bulkhead).
  6. Hi guys, A few months ago, I saw a comment by someone who linked a new reproduction lower nose panel replacement for sale. This is a piece of molded sheet metal that goes below the front bumper and is used to replace a damaged or rusted piece currently on the car. The only thing is, I can not for the life of me find the link. Does anyone have it? Thank you, Ryan
  7. Hey All, I am picking my 71 02' up from the Sandblasters on Tuesday. I lack the proper welding skills to repair what rust remains on the car... I have a hole in the driver side rocker panel below the side window, hole on the lower valence under where the front bumper mounts - or behind where a air dam would mount - the spare tire well is rusted of course, the front right blinker housing is rusted up, and I have misc. bad surface rust where some window seals would cover, under the bench seat support, and around the gas pedal. I really need to find a good, reputable shop that knows what they are doing, especially with an 02'. I know Seattle is a host of many 2002 owners, and has a strong automotive community. I'm sure there are shops out there known for this... So your suggestions are welcome! Sorry there are no pictures, the car has not been with me for 2 weeks. My plans are to send it off to be primed and painted after the rust is taken care of. Still need to decide the color... the original paint was Colorado. Is there something I should do to prevent surface rust from forming in the interim? Thanks! - Hunter
  8. I have a 1973 2002tii east coast car that needs body and interior repair work. The pedal box, some of the quarter sections on the floor, and underneath the front and rear wheel wells. I have more pictures available and a short video. Can anyone please recommend a body shop in Los Angeles that specializes in 2002s? Cheers, Phil
  9. A short summary of an afternoon spent repairing a rusted Hofmeister Kink... Its a tough area to work due to all of the bends and lack of access... I am taking care of the rust in my car's body and like many 2002's the side quarter window seals were not changed when they should have been. The problem- The first cuts and one spot weld to remove the first portion- The second portion removed- Patch one- Patch one welded in with the last bend left up so as to provide access to weld and grind within the channel- Ground welds,bent the fold down, and then welded the fold into place. Leaving the fold open on patch one was the key to the whole repair... Positioned patch number two- Welded in and cleaned up. Did alot of the final metal shaping with a hand file- Sprayed some primer on for protection until I sand blast it and really protect the kink- Still needs some final touch up put it was getting late and had to call it a night.... Hope this helps some people. I was very fortunate that the rust had not compromised any of the outer defining structure. With well placed cuts my patch number 2 required minimal shaping other than a slight bend down the length with a slight crease running top to bottom at the center... EDIT- sorry all the pics are sideways.... On my laptop they are correct but when uploaded they are not. A little frustrated with the picture upload as the first time around I attempted to just embed a link to my google drive but the forum disallowed that...


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