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Found 55 results

  1. $25 shipped
  2. 2k2tii

    springs

    $50 + shipping per pair
  3. shipping is additional door panels - $600 rear seat - $300 arm rests - $75 each ash trays - $50 each
  4. New $74 shipped message if interested
  5. Only 100 miles on them message if interested
  6. 2k2tii

    kyb shocks

    Brand new Front - $86 shipped Rear - $74 shipped
  7. For rust repair Part is NLA Price includes shipping Located in Pomona, CA 91765 1 Hour east of Los Angeles
  8. $30 shipped Part # 51141801560
  9. Simeon

    Bearing repair

    Having given up replacing the wheel bearings when refurbishing the rear suspension, I returned to the task once I had rearmed with two new axle-end castle nuts. I couldn't move the nuts at the time, so having limited time to complete the work, I left the bearings in place to be replaced another day. I bought a new impact wrench as my old, single hammer wrench didn't touch the nuts. Sure enough, the new wrench, after working away for a while, removed the nuts as requested. As I was removing the right hand side nut, the hub came free from the stub axle. This seemed a lot easier than the usual script, which sees pullers and even heating the hub to get it off. The bearings were knocked out with a punch easily once I realised that the internal spacer could be displaced to give access to the outer race to apply the punch evenly around the outside. Once both bearings were out and everything cleaned up, I realised that there was no spacer shim included. This is likely to explain why the hub separated from the stub axle so easily (though equally I didn't have any obvious bearing problems). I greased one of the replacement bearings and installed it from the rear using the bush /bearing pulling tool that I have plus the gland nut for a stock front strut that fits nicely on the outer race. Having installed the inner bearing, I took my vernier calipers and measured the depth of the installation shoulder to the face of the bearing (61mm) and measured the length of the inner spacer (64.2mm) so with an end float of 0.1mm, I needed a shim of 3.1mm. Unluckily for me, the 3.1 shim is NLA so I purchased a 3mm shim from the local BMW dealer. This cost me $53 AUD for a part available in the states for $11USD but I could get it quickly (10 days) so I went with that. I figure that it is better to have a slightly larger end float of 0.2mm than none at all. Having obtained the shim, this was installed with the outer bearing which was tapped and pulled into place using my bearing puller. The greased seals were then installed on both sides, followed by the stub axle slid and tapped into place. I put the hub and castellated nut in place and finished it off by pulling the stub axle into place by tightening with my impact gun. Once the drum was back on, I added the wheel and lowered the car of the jackstands. Then after doing some arithmetic on my weight and the length of my breaker bar, I proceeded to tighten the stub axle up to its final torque. This saw me tighten using my torque wrench to 150lb ft (as high as it goes) followed by me hauling on my long breaker bar until I could applying my full body weight (250lb) to the measured length of my bar to give the required 295lb ft. A further small project also needed to be completed as a follow on from the suspension work. The right hand shock, lower mounting stud had disappeared and the PO replaced it with a bolt which was undersized. I had put it back together using the bolt pending arrival of the correct parts from Blunt. The correct stud is a press in design with a knurled section similar to a wheelstud. To install, I got it started in the hole with a few taps from a hammer before installing the shock and then pulling the stud into place with the nut and some judicious use of my new impact wrench to tighten and pull the stud into place. Old bolted connection for lower shock mounting. New knurled bolt, washer and nut. Bearings removed and old grease cleaned out. New lower mount installed. Bearing being wound into place with puller (and stock front strut gland nut). Stub axle back in place, just awaiting drum and a good old tighten.
  10. Simeon

    Rear End Tune Up

    The rear suspension on my car was pretty tired looking and like most things where I don't have a detailed knowledge of its history, I was not prepared to take any chances with it. Certainly we are planning an interstate move to Sydney before the end of the year so I wanted to finish up on the big jobs that would keep the car from getting a Road Worthiness Certificate in New South Wales. South Australia is more relaxed about testing old cars and as long as you keep up to date with your registration then they don't test you. There was no obvious play in the suspension but the bits of bush you could see projecting outside the trailing arms looked cracked and perished. It looked like this was the original suspension, at least as far as bushes are concerned. The shock absorbers were, I think, 80's vintage KYBs. I say 80's because the rubber bushes were heavily perished in the same manner as the trailing arm rubber. While the bushes may have been shot, the shocks themselves seemed fine in terms of consistent pressure when depressing them and they consistently returned to their extended position. People criticise KYBs as being too harsh ( they may be) but they certainly seem to be pretty well made. Out go the KYBs and in come the HD Bilstein shocks to match those up front. While doing the bushes, I also decided to rebuild the rear brakes - so shoes, drums, handbrake cables (my old ones were well stretched with small sections of pipe to keep the threads useful). I also bought rear wheel bearings but I set myself the task of completing the work over a weekend and over stretched myself a bit. I couldn't shift the 36mm hub nut with either my air impact wrench or a breaker bar with a long cheater pipe, so short of getting destructive to shift the nuts (I have no easy replacements) discretion was the better part of valour and the bearings lived to fight another day. I had quite a haul from Walloth & Nesch, especially in terms of weight, so it's good to take advantage of their fixed rate shipping. When I opened the box, I was impressed that they included a nicely bound parts catalog. Of course it's only marketing but I am a sucker for the hi-res exploded diagrams. Everything other than the hubs came apart as it should. After slowly releasing the tension on the springs by jacking up the trailing arm and disconnecting the shocks, the springs and shocks came out. I then stripped the drum brakes, carefully removing the rear wheel cylinders. These are 'only' 6 years old and in perfect condition so they are getting reused. The drums were pretty worn and right on the wear limit plus the shoes, while not that worn, were showing some troubling cracking. I got a pair of rear flexible hoses since I wasn't 100% certain I wouldn't destroy them on the way out. In the end the existing ones, also replaced 6 years ago, were in perfect condition so I left them in place. Having removed the springs and shocks it made it easier to reach in from the side to get the halfshaft hex bolts. Not wanting to risk stripping any of the bolts with my air impact wrench, I cobbled together all of my 1/2" socket extensions until I could extend beyond the body to get a good swing with a breaker bar after giving the hex socket a good smack with a hammer to make sure it is seated. On one occasion this still wasn't enough given prior damage so I ended up having to drill the head off with an 11mm drill before winding the stub out with vice grip pliers once the half shaft was removed. I placed the trolley jack head on the flat plate in front of the diff and took the weight. I removed the 'push rods' from under the floor and then undid the large nuts on the body to subframe studs. These came off without any undue problems and with some care the subframe was lowered to the ground and dragged out from under the car. The strip down went quickly and I moved onto tackling the bushes. With the combination of the screw and nuts from a professional bush installation set and some half arsed pieces of PVC pipe, I pulled the old bushes out having followed Toby's tip of heating them with a torch until they smoked to release the 'stiction' between the trailing arm and the bush. Toby also said that most bushes are actually in good condition internally, and these were exactly that. The subframe and trailing arms all got a standard treatment of jet wash, degreaser, jet wash again, knotted cup wire brush in an angle grinder followed by scrubbing with wax and grease remover. The parts were then given two good coats of epoxy machine enamel before reassembly. Nuts and bolts not due for replacement (I replaced all of the hex hardware on the half shafts as well as the sway bar mounts and fasteners) were degreased, wirebrushed and shot with a little zinc galv paint to clean them up. The rubber subframe mountings were date marked as December 1972 which would align with the build date of my car being March 1973. See this post They showed some deep cracking but again felt quite solid for something that is 44 years old, off to the neighbour's pool! While these bushes looked like being original, it was obvious that my rear suspension had seen some work over the years as the left hand trailing arm is a standard 'open' style and the right hand a plated tii trailing arm. Accident? Rust? Who knows. The subframe beam appears straight and the trailing arm tabs look perfect so who knows? I did think of plating the other side but I have heard stories of this warping them and it increasing the rate that they rust out, so I am sticking with my mix of arms for now. The handbrake cables caused some swearing due to their awkwardness, a dark spot and difficult working angle through the passenger door. The old cables came out relatively easily but the new ones took some fiddling to get in. I pulled out the hand brake lever to get access to the new ends and the guts of the ratchet mechanism flew out and the button took off and struck the windshield. I then had to research how it all went back together on the FAQ. I got a bit of practice reassembling that handbrake lever until I realised that I needed to pull the cables far enough through the hole that the threaded section was completely clear and the handle was only bearing upon the cable themselves. Locking pliers, zip ties and levering with a screw driver gave the required cable extension while I squeezed the handle into place without dislodging the ratchet mechanism. Cables firing back into the tunnel, buttons shooting out, swear words flying. Thankfully done now; another job that I would pay money to have seen demonstrated on a moving production line in Munich. While the rear suspension is out, I cleaned and repainted the rear wheel wells and panels under the boot floor. I jetwashed and scraped the collection of road dirt, loosened undercoat and hardened oil out before treating it to two coats of white epoxy enamel with a brush. The existing paint was in excellent condition in general and this served to clean things up more than avert any kind of structural crisis. This car, apart from the issues around the edge of doors, boot and bonnet has really proven to be structurally perfect and free from major rust. One of the benefits of spending your time inland on one of the dryest continents on earth. Reassembly went back together fairly smoothly, the swaybar mountings took some juggling to get right. I had to think hard about how to reassemble but at the same time not torque anything up until back on the wheels. New shocks were installed, springs and pads refitted along with the bumpstops (these were all cleaned up and were in good shape).
  11. SPRING INVENTORY SALE! https://www.02bumpers.com/ would like to offer 10% off all bumpers currently in stock This will be a month long sale starting from March 13th, 2018 through April 13th, 2018. All bumpers that are ordered between the sale dates will ship the next day.** **Any inventory bumper ordered between March 30th and April 3rd will ship April 4th, 2018 (I will be out of town for Easter)** Contact info: [email protected] or Message through this thread/forum Payments can be made via Paypal or Credit/Debit Card Discount is for inventory items only Sold on a first come first serve basis Bumper Inventory Stainless Steel Bumper Sets: #1 "Shorty" Style Bumper set (Front and Rear) No Rear Bumper License Plate Light Cutouts Included: Front bumper guards, rear seam covers, front license plate mounting holes, hardware to assemble. (brackets not included) Retail: $1,099.00 Discounted Price: $989.00 Number Available: 1 #2 "Long" Style Bumper set (Front and Rear) Included: Front bumper guards, rear seam covers, holes for impact strip, rear license plate light cutouts, front license plate mounting holes, hardware to assemble (brackets, rear lamps and impact strip not included) Retail: $1,199.00 Discounted Price: $1,079 Number Available: 1 #3 "Long" Style Bumper set (Front and Rear) No Rear License Plate Light Cutouts Included: Front bumper guards, rear seam covers, holes for impact strip, front license plate mounting holes, hardware to assemble (brackets and impact strip not included) Retail: $1,199.00 Discounted Price: $1,079.00 Number Available: 2 Stainless Steel Bumper (Individual): #4 "Shorty" Style Bumper (Rear) No Rear Light Cutouts Included: Seam Covers Hardware to assemble (brackets not included) Retail: $549.00 Discounted Price: $494.00 Number Available: 2 1 #5 "Shorty" Style Bumper (Front) Included: Front bumperettes Hardware to assemble (brackets not included) Retail: $549.00 Discounted Price: $494.00 Number Available: 2 #6 "Long" Style Bumper (Rear) Included: Rear seam covers, holes for impact strip, License Plate Light Cutouts, hardware to assemble (brackets, rear lamps and impact strip not included) Retail: $599.00 Discounted Price: $539.00 Number Available: 2 #7 "Long" Style Bumper (Rear) No License Plate Light Cutouts Included: Rear seam covers, holes for impact strip, Hardware to assemble (brackets and impact strip not included) Retail: $599.00 Discounted Price: $539.00 Number Available: 2 #8 "Long" Style Bumper (Front) No Impact Strip Holes Included: Front bumperettes, holes for impact strip, Hardware to assemble (brackets and impact strip not included) Retail: $599.00 Discounted Price: $539.00 Number Available: 1 #9 1971-1973 Front Overriders Retail: $229.00 Discounted Price: $199.00 Number Available: 3 sets These will be sold on a first come, first served basis. Thank you for looking! Prices do not include shipping. Please include a zip code for a shipping quote. I also have some #2 bumpers that will be offered at a discount due to small cosmetic scratches in the stainless. If interested in our #2 stock please message me. -Chris
  12. Hey FAQ'ers! I am starting a weekly post offering free shipping (lower 48) on the featured bumper of the week. This offer is only available to FAQ members. This week's bumper: Short Stainless Steel Rear Only With No License Plate Light Cutouts Price: $549.00 Please respond in this thread, message me through the FAQ, or at [email protected] if you are interested. Thank you for looking!! Chris
  13. $50 shipped retails for $114, see 2nd pic
  14. $330 shipped rear door cards 51431816847 51431816848 NLA ash trays included 51167466072 NLA
  15. $80 shipped NLA
  16. Front pair - $200 shipped ($1,000 retail) Part # 51411830505 Part # 51411830506 Rear pair - $200 shipped Part # 51431830523 (NLA) Part # 51431830524 (NLA) Part # 51167466072 (ash tray NLA) Part # 51167466073 (ash tray NLA)
  17. Just wanted to share: I had seen a post somewhere on here mentioning the fact that 2002's were to be fitted with a muffler tip. I recently went on a BMWCCA drive up to the Lemay car museum, and I had 2 fellow 2002's with me. One of them had a tip installed that reminded me of that posting and thought it looked subtle yet very nice. I've been running a craigslist find 4-1 header with the IE late model exhaust for about a hear and a half now. The first issue was the center muffler is a bit too big and somehow got banged enough to break one of the welds inside. I decided to replace it with single glasspack (much smaller and out of the way) and have been quite enjoying the sound ever since. Though on this recent trip up to the car museum I found a killer buzz around 3200 so I took it into the muffler shop and while I was there, had them put on a simple tip. I'll have to take a side profile photo in the morning, but figured I'd at least post the rear shot as it sits. I think it adds a bit of subtle flair that is very welcome on a car that should have come with it when new. update: added photos. I agree with one of the posts, having a tip that extends a bit more helps with the fumes... I got back from the lemay trip and the lower part of the bumper had some build up.
  18. Hi All, I purchased a brand new 1971-1973 2002tii rear trunk badge emblem for my 72' tii from what this forum would consider a reputable seller. After installing the brand new badge on the car, and comparing it to an original BMW OEM factory German rear badge that I know is correct, i found a glaring issue -- the supposedly new tii rear badge is too short! See the attached pictures for for details. The installed badge is the badge in question. The badge held up to the already installed badge is a version I know is correct. When i went back to the seller and inquired about this difference, they did in fact claim: "It is Original BMW". However, I wanted to bring this puzzle to all of you folks for more details. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- I did a bit more research in an old official BMWparts book (see pic) and found the following: 1.) Part # 51 14 1 815 197 was the original 2002tii badge in Europe, which was discontinued. 2.) Part # 51 14 1 826 842 was the next badge iteration, available in Europe and the U.S., which has also now been discontinued. I don't believe I ever received a [orange] BMW sticker showing the part # of the new badge I purchased. A.) is this "new" badge the European version? B.) is this "new" badge the Euro/U.S. 2nd iteration version? C.) is this "new" badge a reproduction? Thank you ahead of time for the help!
  19. Hey Everyone, One of my rear female seat belts broke the other day. Anyone got one? thanks!
  20. Price:: 145.00 Location: : fort walton beach, FL ​I have for sale a racetep rear shock tower brace. It's in good condition, and I recently took it off my car. I do not have the mounting bolts for it, but you can source them at any local hardware store... if you're interested feel free to PM me or send me a text 850-240-0402 Price is $145 shipped 20150422_192043 by bluebelt00, on Flickr 20150422_192106 by bluebelt00, on Flickr
  21. Rear trunk emblem badge $25 shipped pm if interested


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