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Found 25 results

  1. Half a lifetime ago I had a '76 2002 and 25 years later I am back in the mix as the proud new owner of a '73 Riviera Tii. As I tell everyone, "it is slow, loud and smelly, and I love it". The problem is, the smell I love is the smell of brakes, fluids, gas, emissions etc. Unfortunately the car arrived with that all too familiar sickening sweet decomposing rodent smell (I know it from the occasional rodent that dies under my house). In my home, as horrendous as the smell is, it tends to go away in 3-4 weeks max (easier to light a candle for a month, than search under the house or in the walls for the body). Problem with my car is that I can't drive around with a candle burning; and air fresheners just don't cut it (or at least the one that the PO had under the seat). It smells fine sitting in the car, but not once it is running, ugh! I am pretty sure I know where the carcass is, in the pedal box. The pedal box insulation had been pulled down and there is a perfect little hole there for the varmint to enter. Additionally, since it doesn't smell until I drive, it seems that the smell just shoots up from the pedal area. I also, bent a hanger and scrounged around from the bottom of the pedal box to see if I could snag the dirty rotten scoundrel; but just came up with a few pieces of what looked to be grey hair. Perhaps someone has another idea where the smell might be originating from (hopefully with easier access than the pedal box, that from searching on this site appears to be a huge Pain in the Ass - PITA.) So my questions are: Why hasn't the smell just dissipated (over the first 6-8 weeks of ownership) as happens in a house. Or, will it ever dissipate If I open the pedal box to try and search for the critter's body, will it be the same PITA as outlined in the pedal box rebuild link (https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/removing-and-rebuilding-the-pedal-box-r26); Or, can I easily open the pedal box without messing with the springs, rods, master cylinder, etc. Lastly, it appears that the best way to get the pedal box open in from the top (or is it possible open from underneath the car) If there is an option, for my purposes of simply getting rid of a rodent, should I try one before the other? Thank in advance for any advice/thoughts.
  2. Hi - I'm converting and upgrading my '68 1600 mechanical clutch/brake system to hydraulic. Looking for: 02 pedal box brake booster Master cylinder (E21, E30 ok) Front calipers (E21, E30 ok)
  3. Day ~55 Floor Pan Sound Deadening/Insulation Flashback: The original tar sound deadening was removed, patches welded in, floor pan interior and underside were grinded and sealed with POR15, rubberized asphalt undercoating was added under the entire shell. Following the dynamat superlite install, I finished off the sound deadening by installing what was left of the EZ Cool, I was running out towards the end, so I had to cut some funky shapes in order to cover everything. Rear sub-frame install Flashback: All component of the rear sub-frame were grinded down and re-sealed with POR15, the tired rubber bushings were replaced with new urethane bushings, the stock anti-sway bar was upgraded to an ST Suspension 19mm anti-sway bar and the rubber flexible brake lines replaced with CA Tuned braided stainless steel. As previously mentioned, I had re-assembled the refreshed rear sub-frame and I placed it on some old plywood with some casters, figuring this would make my life easier. Well I was right, it did, with everything bolted to torque we simply needed to position, lift and secure. For the first time during the rebuild I enlisted some help, Kosta and my brother. As you can see my brother was dressed to work. Tail lights + Fuel tank Flashback: The interior of the fuel tank was treated with POR15’s 3-step fuel tank repair kit, the exterior was grinded and coated with POR15 sealer. New fuel sender gasket, new fuel filler neck gasket. The tail light’s were cleaned and polished, the internal reflective backs were sprayed with chrome paint and LED bulbs were added. While getting the wiring sorted, I’m “plugging things in” to avoid confusion, plus I don’t like seeing loose harnesses. The trunk is an area which is simpler to tackle so I finishing that up. I used some caulking strips to seal the tail light lenses because the oem seals are expensive ($18usd) for nothing (and I'm a cheap sob). Time to put the refreshed fuel tank back in. I used the same caulking strips to make a seal for the fuel tank and fuel tank seal Brake Booster / Pedal Box install Flashback: The pedal box was repaired then sealed with POR15, new upgraded IE bearings/sleeves/springs were added. The brake booster + brake booster bracket were grinded and sealed with POR15 and new upgraded IE pivot bearing/sleeve were added. I put the stuff in, not much else to say. Although I added CA Tuned front stainless steel lines and new brake line grommets. Also it was not fun installing the hard brake lines in to the master cylinder. I threw on a few more easy bits, wiper motor, hood clamp…
  4. Happy 02/02 Tuesday! How do you like my pretty little pedal box? I can't wait to get my heels on those pedals! Before and After!
  5. Hi there I am back. Well sort of. I am beginning to collect a few bits and pieces for a new project. I bought ClassDave's '73 Bavaria. Very cool and solid car (Thx Dave!). Anyways, I am looking for the pieces or a complete manual pedal assembly to convert from auto to manual. Please let me know what you have!? Kindest regards, Bill P
  6. Looking for a good tii pedal box. Are there differences between tii and non-tii boxes? Thanks. Larry
  7. I bought one of the first IE pedal box bearing kits several months ago and finally got around to installing it. here is the pile of parts tools needed include: 17mm open end wrench 17mm closed end wrench (not the same as above) 19mm wrench needle nose vice grips small flat blade screwdriver (to poke the washers when installing pedals start by : remove gas pedal pull carpet out. twist 45 left to get it off pedals. gas pedal arm first. pop the little cover by the gas pedal so the pedal bolt can slide out use vise grips to pull spring off brake pedal remove brake pedal pin to linkage. c-clip comes off by hand or with vice grips. pull out your pedals. two bolts, 17/19 on clutch bolt, 17/17 on pedal bolt. while in there, might as well clean up/paint pedal box if needed.. here is the order the parts go in with stock bushings for reference assembled (spare pedal box used for demo purposes) NOTE - the "stack width" of all the IE parts was just a touch too wide to fit in either of my pedal boxes. i ended up using a center washer that was thinner than the stock one and shaved a few thou off the clutch pedal spacer to get the width correct. here is pic of thinner center washer when i was mocking up in demo box. and yes, you can do this by yourself... it is a major PITA to line up all the little pieces while pushing the bolt through, but doable. hard part is getting nut on end of bolt with the tight space. the paper towel visible is to prevent an ooops moment if i bobbled the nut or washer and it was going to run down the frame rail. i used needle nose vice grips to hold nut on end of bolt with left hand while reaching in car with right hand to rotate bolt to start thread engagement on the nut. soooo....was it worth it? yes. much less play in the pedals (this is compared to the new stock bushings i had in there NOT to old trashed bushings) HOWEVER...the major slop in the 02 brake system remains at the booster pivot. send your cards and letters to IE to ask them to make a similar bushing kit for this part of the system!!!!!
  8. Hello '02 Everyone! To Date I Have Shipped Over #815 Orders in Over 21 Countries With #300+ 2002 Friends : ) * Same-Day Shipping = Your Order * CLEAN 2002 FLOOR PANS -- HEALTHY METAL -- TO "PERFECT USED" FOR YOUR RESTORATION !! 1-WEEK, 20% Discount OFF = "FLOOR PAN SALE" Priced from $78 to $124 Price for Solid Floor Pan with Minor Rust is: $ 90 X -20% Discount = $78 Price for Solid Floor Pan with Zero Rust is: $110 X -20% Discount = $88 Price for Monster Quarter Pan w/ Fire Wall: $155 X -20% Discount = $124 Some Are Already Dry-Iced And Scrapped! Save Yourself Tons And Tons Of Work !!! . . . . : ) Great Option To Restore Your Project! . . . . All That Could Fit In Pictures -- Have 3-More Sets Of Floor Pans (Not Pictured) !!! Nice Clean Rust-Free Floor Pans Actually Have 7-Sets Of Super Clean Rear Floor Pans !!! Underside of Passenger-Side Monster Front Quarter = Actually Have Five Of These In-Stock !!! In Addition To Floor Pans There's Lots Of Solid Metal In Inventory: i.e. Shock Towers, Wheel Wells, Quarter Panels, etc. 1-WEEK, 20% Discount OFF Price @ $78 to $124 (simple enough) !!! "Perfect Used" Nice and Clean Solid Great Condition !!! This Monster Front Quarter: Pan / Firewall / Tranny Tunnel Piece is Much, Much More Than Just a Floor Pan !!! Monster Quarter Comes With or Without Outside Frame-Rail Rocker If Needed !!! More Complete Metal Cut Which Is Easier To Weld and Solve Rust Problems !!! * * * NEW UPDATE * * * In Stock '71,'72 & '73 Roundies and '74 '75 & '76 Square Taillight cars. Current Inventory Includes: !!! #2,300+ PARTS ALREADY PULLED, PLUS TEN 2002 "PARTS-CARS" TO CHOOSE FROM !!! ~ ~ If You Are Looking For A Specific Piece . . . . I Probably Have It #2-3 Times ~ ~ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * PAYMENT IS VIA: Google Wallet for FREE OR PayPal for + 5% More SHIPPING IS VIA: FedEx Ground OR Pilot Freight for Monster Quarter Sections Small Floor Pan Shipping Cost Via FedEx Ground Is Approximately $65-$75 to Most Lower 48 States. Monster Quarter Section Is $125 Via Pilot Freight to Most States. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * You are Welcome to Contact me directly, Call OR Text: 303 - 999 - 1190 Every Single Package is Shipped with Insurance. I will ship to anywhere in the World : ) As always, thanks for Looking! Bryce Feel Free to Call OR Text Bryce: 303 -- 999 -- 1190 Always the Fastest Method!
  9. Preferably not rusted out! :-) Hydraulic.
  10. I'm starting a 76 auto to M42/240 5 speed and need a complete pedal box. Dirty and in need of new springs, bushings, etc. is ok as long as there are no holes in it.
  11. Hi All, I've been making parts/bushings and such at my local techshop and was hoping somebody can help me out with a dimension. I just did an aluminum bushing kit for the pedal box and thought that I might as well do the z bracket bushing as well. I'm looking for the length of the infamous 'z bracket' for the brake booster as well as the inside diameter. I am going on a hunch that it has an inside diameter of 18mm, the same as the inside diameter of the clutch and brake pedals. I'd get these dims myself but I am working long distance from my '02. I attached a a pic for the dimensions I'm looking for. Thanks guys! Pete
  12. Hi, I'm looking for pedal box RHD BMW 1800 (clutch, brake, accelerator linkage) and several other parts. Please let me know if some one have it. Thank you.
  13. Hi, I'm neck deep in floor pan replacement on my '74 2002 and two questions have come up. 1. What are the metal nail-like protrusions throughout the floor pan? There are two on either side of the transmission tunnel near where your feet would be, there's on on top of the trans tunnel... and a few in other places. Something to do with the carpet? Can I grind them off? 2. How do I remove the pedal box? I did some quick searching and came up empty. There's a rusted through hole just to the left of it and I think I'm going to have to remove it to get at that area cleanly. Is it just a matter of going underneath and unplugging things, then unbolting from the inside? The bolts are pretty rusty. :/
  14. I am coverting an old 1600 brake into the newer one. So will need the whole pedal box from a later 1600/2002, booster and brake master cylinder. Plus a distributor (don't have the part # handy, can trade for a 2002 one). A mechanical fuel pump will be great too. sheggaw at gmail.com Thanks
  15. I have some time while the heater gets installed in the garage to spend refreshing the parts that have been stripped from the car in preparation for paint. I've cleaned up and painted some random brackets, rear drums, sub-frame straps and brake booster. I'll have to create another post on the use of both white vinegar and oxalic acid (wood bleach) for rust removal. I have a couple Ti pedal boxes sitting in the basement so I thought I would give it a go and rebuild the best of the bunch. I disassembled the box and to my surprise the long booster tube is removable. I suppose conversion to un-boosted brakes would be quite simple... The pedal bushings were shot and there was a lot of play in the pedals. I have some new replacement parts, but as others have discovered, the tolerances are quite high and there is still a lot of play in the pedals. I'll have to look to McMaster-Carr or make my own bushings. Take a look at that monster helper-spring for the clutch... Does anyone know if this is necessary when using a newer style pressure plate vs. the older 3-finger pressure plate? You can see where the long Ti tube mounts to the box. Ti Tube - pedal box mounting side. All the parts are currently being soaked to remove the rust and will be primed an painted in the next couple days. I'll update the thread to show the final assembly and bushing solution.
  16. First time '02 owner and mainly trying to get the machine running. I finally got my Pedal Box out of my '70. These instructions were the treat - thanks for the help!! - and I can confirm that my pedal box has rot. I'm sure that I can figure out how to fix this. Here's where I have concerns. The area around the accelerator pedal, on the edge of the pedal box is rusted through. If it was a flat section I think I could figure out how to cut it out and weld in a new piece, but because its on the rounded edge and so close to the pedal attachment for the accelerator I'm left a little unsure on how to proceed. If you have any suggestions on how to approach this, I'd greatly appreciate it! Thanks all!
  17. This is a somewhat stupid question but I have a pedal box to go in to my '72 BMW--what size bolts/nuts are required to mount it? I got just a bare pedal box.....
  18. Looking for a FAQ on rebuilding the pedal box, preferably with pictures? Am I missing it? Mainly interested in the purpose of the "U" shaped part that is missing from mine: 35 31 4 440 119 currently available from Wallothnesch.com - is this for a mechanical clutch or hydraulic? http://www.wallothnesch.com/federlasche-35-03-06.html Found these links but there are only two references to that part number: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/139797-i-give-up-where-is-the-pedal-box-rebuild-faq-hiding/?hl=pedal+box+faq#entry923367 http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/body-and-interior/how-to-replace-pedal-box-bushings-with-ie-kit-r125 http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/removing-and-rebuilding-the-pedal-box-r26 http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/86628-pedal-box-parts-i-lost/
  19. - Hello '02 Everyone, Here is an Excellent Collection of #5 Completely Restored Pedal Boxes From Inside Current '02 Parts Inventory of #2,300+ Parts. HAVE ACTUALLY SOLD A FEW AND ADDED SOME MORE THIS LATE WINTER = CURRENTLY HAVE SIX PEDAL BOXES! To Date I Have Shipped Over #975 Orders in Over 23 Countries With #300+ 2002 Friends : ) * Same-Day Shipping = Your Order * Here Is An Incredible Collection Of Newly Restored Pedal Boxes AVAILABLE For The 1502 -- 1600 -- 1800 -- 2002 !!! These Five '02 Pedal Boxes Are In Pristine, Quality Completely Refurbished Into NEW "9.5" Condition. OF COURSE New From BMW would be "10.0" But Long NLA : ) * THE PEDAL BOX HAS BEEN LONG UNAVAILABLE FROM DEALER AND FOR YEARS WERE MORE THAN $500+ EACH IN COMPONENTS !! * http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=ST12-USA-06-1973-114-BMW-2002&mg=35 ~ Constantly Looking For These, This Collection 100% Excellent Restored To NEW CONDITION !!! . . . . PRICE = $475. !! ALL #5 WERE LOCATED & PURCHASED FOR GOOD MONEY PRIVATELY BEFORE DUMPING #20+ HOURS INTO EACH INDIVIDUAL RESTORATION PROCESS !! !! 18-MONTHS, DISASSEMBLED, RUST MITIGATED, ACID-SOAKED, SANDED, ETCHED, PRIMED, PAINTED, POLISHED, REASSEMBLED INTO NEW PEDAL BOXES !! !! ALSO RESTORE CENTER CONSOLES, TAIL LIGHTS, HEATER BOXES, DASHBOARDS & DRIVESHAFTS. 18-MONTHS COLLECTING GROUP, MOST IN #2 YEARS !! !!! EACH AND EVERY SURFACE & COMPONENT HAS BEEN POLISHED WITH GRINDER, AND POLISHING WHEELS TO BE REFURBISHED TO NEW = ZERO RUST !!! !! EXCELLENT & AVAILABLE CHOICES : ) EACH PEDAL BOXES = ZERO RUST PERFECTLY CLEAN & COMPLETE -- EXCELLENT QUALITY REPLACEMENT !! ~ ~ PERFECTLY RESTORED PEDAL BOXES INTO "9.5" QUALITY. PLUS THE FIRST #2 ORDERS RECEIVE FREE SHIPPING $36+ VALUE FOR FREE : ) ~ ~ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Currently Low On M10 Motors, Headlights & Tail Lights -- Have Several E-12 Heads and one 121 Head Casting (No Valves, OR CAM), Intake Manifold, Six Pedal Boxes, Three Steering Boxes, Seven Consoles, Eleven Sets of USA Turn Signals, Six Valve Covers, Eight Radiator Fans, Dozens of Vent Knobs, Vent Window Actuators, Chrome Door Finishers, Quarter Chrome Finishers, Chrome Vent Window Frames, Sport Wheels, Steering Wheels, 4-Speed Trannies, Drive Shafts, CV Half Shafts, Hubs, Subframes, Window Glass, Loads Of Belt Trim, Lower Body Trim, Plenty Of Sheet Metal = Doors, Hoods, Deck Lids, Quarter Panels, Tail Clips, Nose Clips, Window Regulators Door Hardware, Seat Belts, Grills, Lights, Brackets, Linkage, Switches, Relays, Trim, Gaskets, and Much, Much, More. Unfortunately, NO DOOR GASKETS, SQUARE TAIL LIGHTS, NON-CRACKED DASHBOARDS At This Time. BELOW IS AN ACCURATE LIST OF CURRENT INVENTORY. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CALL OR TEXT ME FOR MORE SPECIFIC INFORMATION: ALSO: If There Is Something Not On The List, OR If You Have Any Questions: Please Call: 303 - 999 - 1190 1.) ALL '02 ITEMS ARE ON A 1ST-COME-1ST-SERVE" BASIS. 2.) REQUESTS ARE HONORED IN THE ORDER THAT THEY ARE RECEIVED. 3.) PAYMENT IS DUE WITH PACKAGING, NOT BEFORE. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * PAYMENT IS VIA: Google Wallet for FREE OR SquareUp Credit Card Invoice for + 2.90% More You are Welcome to Contact me directly, Call OR Text: 303 - 999 - 1190 Pedal Box Assembly Ships Inside Of a Custom Box Either USPS Parcel Select Mail, OR FedEx Ground Approximately $36-$38 Shipping Costs Including Insurance = Simple Enough : ) In General Shipping is most commonly via USPS with the Parcel Select service which is Distance sensitive. Here, the weight of the package determines the Shipping cost. OR Priority Mail which is Flat-rate in standard boxes "If It Fits – It Ships" Large Packages between 60 lbs. and 100 lbs. may ship FedEx Ground. Larger shipments heavier than 100 lbs. are sent via Common Carrier with Pilot Freight who has 75 warehouses in major cities around the country. Every Single Package is Shipped with Insurance. I will ship to anywhere in the World : ) As always, thanks for Looking! Bryce Feel Free to Call OR Text Bryce: 303 -- 999 -- 1190 Always the Fastest Method!
  20. Just a picture of what I'm replacing so I can drive to Vintage!
  21. Hey guys, Having issue disconnecting the brake pedal from the shaft that travels up to the master vacuum. It is the only thing stopping me from removing my pedal box and I cannot figure out what I need to do because my shop manual is rubbish in this section. Any advice?
  22. Hey guys, Having issue disconnecting the brake pedal from the shaft that travels up to the master vacuum. It is the only thing stopping me from removing my pedal box and I cannot figure out what I need to do because my shop manual is rubbish in this section. Any advice?


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