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Found 16 results

  1. Any hints or tips to installing the cable linkage for the Linx manifold?. I am using it in my project and some have complained about the feel and had re-installed it a couple of times to get it right. Thanks
  2. Does anyone have the inside diameter of the small plastic ferrule that fits over the metal accelerator linkage piece that's just under the pedal? This is the sleeve that allows the accelerator pedal to move smoothly against the linkage. Or failing that, the OD of the link itself. I have a little project in mind and need one or the other dimension. My cars are hibernating offsite so I can't check 'em. TIA mike
  3. Could someone measure the ti linkage rod that goes from the pedal lever to the linkage bracket at the firewall. I think it has just one major bend on its length and then the short right angle bend that connects to the pedal lever. I need to know the measurement of the two long lengths of the rod. Thanks in advance!
  4. I have an issue with my shifter and need to know if there is a fix. This little bit is sloppy on the shaft coming out of the transmission. It rotates about 10-15 degrees. It was replaced (at least I got the old part back) about 2 years ago. I thought of drilling it out and putting in a larger dowel. I also thought about slotting it and clamping it to the shaft, but that seems excessive. I would have thought that the pin would be soft enough to sacrifice itself instead of the hole in the shaft, but that may not be the case. Any thoughts would help.
  5. Hi, I am looking for three parts to a 1972 2002 tii acclerator linkage, these are the bracket, lever and clip that are bolted to the L/S of the block right down by the oil dipstick tube. I need the bracket that has the lever pin, the lever ( " V " looking linkage part ) that has 2 ball joints attched to them These attach the long linkage rod and the short one that goes up to the intermediate shaft. And the clip, if possible, that secures the lever to the pin on the bracket. Best to reach me at [email protected] Thanks, Rick
  6. Quick question. I noticed that my brake pedal wasn't fully returning when I depressed it. My suspicion was in the pedal box & bolt inside the brake booster housing. I have no time to rebuild the box at the moment so I sprayed brake cleaner + kroil + triflow all over the pedal box guts and worked it. I also did the same to the 17mm through bolt that is contained in the bracket that holds the booster. With that 17mm bolt removed the pedal had plenty of play. My question is this - how tight should that 17mm bolt be? Should it be able to freely rotate in the sleeve it sits in? Or should it be snug snug snug? Thanks! Chris
  7. Price:: 500.00 Location: : West Chester, PA For sale on eBay now.... $500.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/291642840226?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 BMW M10 (2002) Configuration All Parts Needed For Direct Bolt On Application New Solex DCOE 45's (60-5672) New TWM Intake Manifolds New TWM Linkage Assortment Of New Mikuni Jets & Replacement Parts Cabs pre-tuned for BMW M10 Application All float levels set 12mm closed 30mm open All mixture screws @ 1.5 turns out Carbs jetted 36 4.5 160 F2 190 65F8 .45 .40 . 2.0 Speed screws set at 1 turn past fully closed Contact me at [email protected]<script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script>
  8. So, getting my tii up and running for summer, it seemed like it was running way rich and flooding out. I kept having to take out the plugs and clean them, then it would run ok for awhile, then bog out, etc..... So while i'm looking at this, I start looking at the linkage, and I see the 85mm link is bouncing around. I replaced this piece over the winter, and somehow it had gotten loose and you could see the tightening nuts bouncing around. I checked it on my 85mm gauge (purchased from William on this board, thanks!) and it was pretty close, just loose. Tightened it up and car seems to be running fine now.... except the warmed up idle is just a tad high. My question is -- should I go through the synch procedure again, and reset the idle screw and enrichment screw in the tuna can? when I last did this, the link was definitely at 85mm. Thanks, Andy74tii
  9. I did an pretty extensive search on this issue and did not find anything so here is a new thread. The shifter in my 74 Tii has recently started feeling very stiff. The car can still be shifted and driven but it is noticably different than it was previously. Did not make a difference that I changed the transmission fluid. I do not think it is the clutch - it seems to be operating fine. When I pulled the boot and moved the shifter, I did see a fair amount of movement in the transmission. I am going to check the mount but that does not seem to be influencing the stiff feel of the shifter. Any thoughts? Car did sit for quite a long time (8 years) and I have only recently been putting some miles on it. I see there is grease around the lover shifter (good!) but wonder if it might be old and a good cleaning might help. Thanks for all of the assistance!
  10. Hey I am after some information regarding where the throttle return spring (No 9 on the attached diagram) runs from and too? I have a number of potential candidates in terms of bits of throttle lever with holes that could take a spring at the carb end and no idea at the other end (I am thinking I need to make up a tabbed washer to go over a manifold stud but could see a few clashes with the centre pull linkage). Some hi-res pictures would be great or even the appropriate section out of the BMW shop manual would be great. Not many decent pictures of these carbs installed anywhere on the net. Thanks in advance.
  11. Hey All, I've recently purchased an entire 2000Ti setup and I'm wanting to put it in my '70 2002, but I just want to see if anyone has any good pics of their setup so I can see how to run the vacuum, heater, and other lines. Thanks to all for the great advice on this site. Greg
  12. $200 shipped weight is around 6-8 pounds part numbers 61611353572 - motor ~ NLA 61618444119 - long rod 61618444115 - short rod Retail for the rods alone is $478.45 (see last pic)
  13. Markster

    The Project

    Hi everyone - a few entries ago I appeared on this site - I think it was on the way home with this car behind me. I asked hey - why does this car have Dual Dellortos? Well now I know a bit more - they are rev. C and they were NOT rebuilt like the PO said so. 🙂 Well there are a lot more of those said so's but hey I am having a blast. Here is what I knew when I bought it. Interior had some Recarro seats on cool chrome mounts and the fabric matched the back seats - wasnt that bad of shape either. Car had been sitting in Merced - since 1998. The PO was obviously in love with the car
  14. EDIT: Ok, tech article is now up with full details! You guys! You guys! I did it! Took me 4 or 5 iterations over 10 years (no joke!) but I FINALLY made a throttle link that I'm perfectly happy with! Working on fully-detailed tech article on it, but for right now here's the spoilers! Found this beautiful (and cheap!) bellcrank w/bearing: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Bell-Crank-with-Bearing-Center,256119.html?sku=91055300-BLK got some ball joint ends to fit with it from the same site, made a new throttle rod, and installed it all in place of the original throttle rod and hokey bellcrank bracket that I was using. The mount for the pivot point could probably be even cleaner (flat bar coming straight up from the upper pedal box bolt), but I'll let someone else fine tune that, it works too perfectly for me to bother messing with any more at this point!
  15. This has taken me a full DECADE of trial-and-error-and-refinement but I have FINALLY cracked this awful nut: how to properly make a good throttle linkage for an EFI conversion! Note that you'll still need to tailor this to your particular manifold/throttle body/mounting points/etc., but I PROMISE this will get you 90% of the way there no matter what setup you are running and I also GUARANTEE that's it's better than what you've already managed to cobble together! So let's get started! As always, first step is to disconnect the battery, and then understand what we're trying to do and the chall
  16. This has taken me a full DECADE of trial-and-error-and-refinement but I have FINALLY cracked this awful nut: how to properly make a good throttle linkage for an EFI conversion! Note that you'll still need to tailor this to your particular manifold/throttle body/mounting points/etc., but I PROMISE this will get you 90% of the way there no matter what setup you are running and I also GUARANTEE that's it's better than what you've already managed to cobble together! So let's get started! As always, first step is to disconnect the battery, and then understand what we're trying to do and the challenges involved: A.) We want a PROGRESSIVE throttle opening, just like that old 32/36 carb we ran back in the day. That is, we want quite small amounts of throttle opening at the beginning of the pedal travel (for idle, off-idle, and cruising), and then 'progressively' more throttle plate movement towards the end of the pedal travel, so that tapping full power from cruise doesn't take that much time or effort. B.) We want the (stock) pedal travel to MATCH the throttle opening, i.e. pedal up = throttle closed, and pedal down to the floor = throttle 100% open. Sounds obvious, but if you've ever tried to run a plain cable straight from sidedrafts or a TB, then you've realized that the throttle(s) tend to open up all the way and hit the stop when the pedal is only about 2/3 of the way down. Works, but sucks, and we're better than that! C.) Form AND Function: this thing needs to work, work well, be smooth, not bind, not require a whole lot of messing or adjustment all the time, and look like it belongs in there, just like the rest of your EFI conversion, rather than some weird contraption that you cobbled together out of random bits you had lying around. D.) Not cost a bloody fortune; we're DIYers! So, in order to accomplish all of that (particularly A&B), we unfortunately need a 3-section linkage setup: 1.) A cable at on the throttle body side (basically ever EFI TB I've seen is set up for cable actuation). 2.) A throttle rod on the pedal side; that's how the 2002 was designed and again we want to avoid issues with mis-matched travel. 3.) A bellcrank mechanism to connect the two halves together AND to give us that progression for the good throttle resolution and response. Let's start with the cable on the TB side, and while you can make the OEM cable for your throttle body or a bicycle cable work, I particularly like this generic throttle cable, because it comes with that adjustable eye on the end with the little set screw to clamp it to a bare cable end, and this one piece (regardless of the exact cable you use) is rather integral to this whole setup: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mr-Gasket-5657-Throttle-Cable-Kit-Stainless-Steel-Braided,287962.html You WILL still be responsible for making sure you can get the other end with the nub on it to somehow mate up nicely to your throttle body though! The cable stops (preferably adjustable and with both ends mounted to your intake manifold to avoid any throttle movement due to the engine shaking relative to the chassis) I will also leave up to you to find the best spots/mounting methods for your own car. Next, let's get to the real meat of the whole thing, the bellcrank. I've seen (and made, and used) all kinds of various bellcranks, with varying degrees of success. But just the other day I found THE THING that made me revisit this whole linkage topic (yet again), and which culminated in me typing all this right now. And here she is, for a staggeringly affordable $20, and you can even pick your color! https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Bell-Crank-with-Bearing-Center,256119.html?sku=91055300-BLK Note that it's pre-tapped with 10-32 threads; that'll be important later. For mounting it, you'll need (x2, one for the pivot and one for the cable eye) 1/4" x 1/4" x 10-32 shoulder bolts. I got the from McMaster-Carr, P/N 91259A171: https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/shoulder-screws/alloy-steel-shoulder-screws-9/ As to WHERE to mount it, I re-used an L-bracket from a previous linkage iteration that I had on top of my brake booster support, but for most people I think the best method would be to use a piece of flat bar and come straight up from the big bolt at the top of the pedal box that holds it to the booster support. If you happened to have things apart, I would think you could also drill/tap the mounting hole straight into the upper part of the booster support itself, but this looks pretty hard to do with the bracket in the car. And if like me you're a proper engineer who only owns Metric tools on principal, fortunately just like -40 degrees, SAE and metric happily meet here, and M5x0.8 is actually the same thread as 10-32! Or just use a thru-hole and a nut, lots of ways to make this work. Here's an interim shot of my new bellcrank in and hooked up to the throttle cable: Finally, let's do the throttle rod. For the ends, these nice little ball joints are cheap, thread right into the bellcrank, and fit nicely through the pedal arm (secured with 2x jam 10-32 jam nuts). 2 required, one for each end of the throttle rod: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-BJGR3-Grommet-style-Staked-Ball-Joint-10-32-RH-Thread,260909.html The rod itself is easy because it's a straight shot, but it needs to have 10-32 (or M5x0.8) threaded ends to screw the ball joints on to and it's critical to get very close to the exact right LENGTH, so measure from the pedal arm to the 2nd-from-the-outer hole in the bellcrank first! (Use that second hole so that you can 'tune' the travel a little in either direction by moving to either the middle or outer holes; in my experience, you'd be very unlikely to use the inner 2 holes).One option is to use 10-32 threaded rod, but I couldn't find any locally, so I just bought some 3/16" plain steel rod, cut it to length, and tapped both ends. Perhaps though, hindsight being 20/20 and all, an even nicer solution would probably be to buy this swedged tube at the right (~16"?) length, an then use the male 10-32 linkage studs (one RH thread and one LH thread!) in both ends: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedged-Aluminum-Throttle-Linkage-Tubes-3-16-Inch-10-32-Thread,3944.html?sku=94055301-16 https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Steel-3-16-Inch-RH-Male-Throttle-Linkage-Rod-Ends-with-Stud,34302.html https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Steel-3-16-Inch-LH-Male-Throttle-Linkage-Rod-Ends-with-Stud,29691.html I'll let you try that route if you want, but not worth me placing a second order now that mine's already done! And here's the final product! Again if you're just starting fresh, I'll bet you could make it even cleaner than mine, but either way, I FINALLY have a throttle linkage I am genuinely, completely happy with! View full article
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