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Found 38 results

  1. crew


    Intake. $25 obo. Pick up available or will ship at cost to buyer.
  2. One side retails for $227.09 new (picture 6 attached) the other side is NLA
  3. brand new message if interested
  4. Posted from nomads2002.blogspot.com Intake Manifold DIY I'm frugal. It is more accurate than what my wife calls me: "cheap". It means that I don't like to spend money, but when I do I want a good return on my investment. I went ahead and purchased a used Weber 38/38 carburetor as an upgrade. While I have a stock cam and compression I may upgrade in the future. The Weber has larger throttle plates so it will not fit on my stock two-hole intake manifold. What follows is my "Frugal" DIY way of modifying the stock manifold work. While not "machine shop pretty" I believe that its a good attempt with minimal downsides and possibly great benefits. After reading several threads and several debates regarding fitment on intake manifolds (on bmw2002faq.com) I knew I only had a few several options: 1. Buy a different model "peanut" style stock manifold that has a larger, single opening at the top. 2. Buy an aftermarket Canon brand manifold that has a large Oval machined out of the carb mount. Commonly called the "NASCAR oval" due to the oval design's use on NASCAR V8 engines. 3. Modify the existing stock two hole manifold to allow fitment of the larger carb's throttle plates. I'm crazy enough to try my hand at most things. The way I see it, the downsides of modifying the intake myself seemed fairy small. It's not an expensive proposition to modify the existing intake manifold if you already own a die grinder or a Dremel. If all went wrong I'd just buy an aftermarket replacement. If the DIY works I'd be saving $100-200. Ultimately, the consensus is that on a street driven car most intake manifold differences are so small as to be inconsequential. Me being "frugal" I decided to give it a go. Tools: Dremel Carbide Burr assortment (amazon.com) WD40 Carb gasket I used the carb gasket to scribe the wider area that needed to be removed. I decided on a two hole system as opposed to the large oval after some research on intake and plenum design. In general: The wide open "NASCAR ovals" allow uninhibited flow and work best at wide open throttle for higher horsepower at high RPM. The two-hole system works best for part throttle situations where the partially open throttle plates disrupt the fuel-air path and the extended walls help redirect it before it enters the plenum. The carbide burrs did a good job of cutting through the aluminum. I sprayed WD-40 occasionally to keep the burr from packing up with aluminum and to keep the dust down. The burrs worked well. They are not super fast but with patience they got through the material just fine. After I got the diameter needed, I widened the inner walls and carried the angle inside as far as I could. The hardest thing for fuel-air suspension to do it turn a 90 degree corner from the carb into the plenum and the intake runner. The smoother transition from carb to plenum area should help the fuel-air transition better. Inside the plenum looking at the modified intake hole with flared inner sides. I added "dimples" to break up laminar flow on the walls but I'm sure it's fairly insignificant (ie: couldn't hurt). Finished product under the old gasket. I will take off just a little more from the top hole. It's extremely hard to get a perfectly straight circle by hand but its close enough to do its job. I then turned my attention to the intake runners. I gasket matched the ends of the intake runners and took off any casting marks or sharp edges. The Dremel can only reach inside about 1.5" so there is definitely a limit to the effectiveness of the port match. The smallest cross section in the runners seem to be halfway up. After reading some interesting home flow bench work done by FAQ member "PatAllen" seen here I decided to lightly deburr cylinders 2-3-4 and turn most of my attention to cylinder #1. According to his tests that cylinder has the worst flow characteristics, possibly causing an imbalance in air-fuel-ratio to the #1 cylinder. As you can see there is a big difference in available port size. The head ports are nearly at the gasket opening. Time to grind! The finished product! (yes, shaky hand at times and I zipped the gasket surface but I'll fix that) Feel free to tell me how I irreversibly messed up or somehow lost all my torque potential, or how I did just fine. Minimal gains if any but it WILL fit a Weber 38/38 synchronous carburetor so as far as I'm concerned...Mission Accomplished. So what do you think? Waste of my time or a great way to save cash?
  5. AdOz

    intake plenum I built

    From the album: Parts gathered and made so far

    Boosting the m42 engine I believe this would work well over the standard manifold and twin throttle
  6. Hey, I bought a 1976 2002 and it seems like a previous owner did not like his car very much. I thought it would be an easy thing to identify what the correct filter housing would be for my Holley carburator. I was wondering If anyone had an idea of where I could buy the air intake assembly housing as seen in picture #2. Worst case, I might have to customize a universal housing and solder an aluminum plate to mount in... But i'd rather not! I am also new to this forum so there may be ressources that I missed. Don't hesitate to point me in the right direction, Thanks!
  7. #15. Looking for 4. NOS or used good condition. Pete 219 741 1002
  8. $50 + shipping Retails for $133.27 (see pic)
  9. Message me if you have them for sale or if you know somebody who does. Thank you.
  10. I have a few of these for sale that I saved from the junkyard. Looking to clean up some garage space. These are the ones you need to go MegaSquirt / EFI on an M10 engine. $50 gets you a manifold and fuel rail. Local pickup preferred but willing to ship at your expense. The crossed out ones are no longer available. The below has been sold and shipped off:
  11. Good condition 32/36, could use a rebuild. Includes Redline rebuild kit made for 32/36 Also comes with linkage Selling because I upgraded carb. 175 OBO
  12. I´m looking for a "lid" that sits on the intake manifold, with connections for coolant hoses to heat the manifold. But there are different types, depending on manifold? I have an after market manifold for Weber, but my stock lid did not fit that manifold so I by passed it which does not seem to work. I´m guessing this manifold fits M10, but what I´d like to know is what type it is based on? So I know which "lid" I need to find? This is how the manifold now on the car looks like underneath. I´m guessing it is based on some BMW stock M10 intake manifold (seems absurd that they´d just make a design out of the blue), but which M10-powered car? (2 bbl manifolds seem hard to get by in Sweden) /Ola For background, on why: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/145005-weber-3236-jetting-again/ EDIT: cleaned up the post and changed the title for clarity.
  13. Hey All, I've recently purchased an entire 2000Ti setup and I'm wanting to put it in my '70 2002, but I just want to see if anyone has any good pics of their setup so I can see how to run the vacuum, heater, and other lines. Thanks to all for the great advice on this site. Greg
  14. Intake manifold cannon like new $130 + shipping
  15. Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum. My '74 2002 arrived just two days ago from California and I'm loving the car. I'm rather youngish so driving a car this old is like nothing I've ever experienced before; it's much more raw and exciting, and even though wicked acceleration isn't there it's very immersive. I've posted a photo of the car. I'm very, very much a beginner when it comes to wrenching, so I'm slowly going through the car to check everything out. I've read probably hundreds of threads on the forum and it's been very helpful. Turns out the car already has a Weber 38/38 carb, electronic ignition, and removed spring spacers -- all things I planned to do. I ran into something that I can't figure out, however. I can't find information on the forum, probably because I don't know what to call this thing. There's an open port on the intake manifold, which is probably a peanut manifold, and I suspect it should be capped or connected to something, but it's sucking unfiltered air and there's a lot of gunk inside the port so I'm concerned. Do you know what this port is and what I should do with it? (Photo attached)
  16. I purchased a set of DCOE webers that came with these intakes. After doing some research, I decided on a rod style linkage, and these CT London manifolds do not have the provision for them. I would like to sell these as they have been sitting unused and not needed. I have all the gaskets for them, which appear to be in good condition, along with the anti-vibration o-rings. I will gladly ship them if theres interest, as they are small enough to fit into a medium sized flat rate box (around $17) sold
  17. Price:: 50 Location: : Portland I have for sale an intake manifold that I picked up along with a head. I have since sold the head, and have no need for a manifold that I am not planning on using. The previous owner painted it black. I've never used it nor seen it run, but it appears to be in good condition. sold as is, shipping can be arranged if theres interest.
  18. Price:: 1.00 Location: : Houston texs selling both exhaust manifold and intake manifold. buyer will pay for shipping. prices are obo! leave a post and also pm me thanks! -exhaust manifold $150 -intake manifold $100
  19. Stock intake manifold from a 1974, bare. --------PEDAL BOX IS SOLD------- $10 to first person who can come pick this up. Also what appears to be a heinously dented oil pan- FREE. (916) 849-4780 Eric
  20. Curious as to how other people with the 318 'upside down' manifold are doing their fresh air intakes. I figured out something that works pretty well with off the shelf autozone parts, but I admit it's a little ghetto fabulous. I have the modular Spectra piping with a 90 degree silicone boot, and then I put a wooden block on the end of the air intake with a little hole in it that engages with a bolt that I put through an existing hole through the nose sheet metal to hold it in place and support the weight there at the air cleaner end. Gets plenty of fresh air there but also gets some spill over air from the radiator as my IAT is usually ~15-20 warmer than ambient. So anyway, I feel this is a decent cheap and dirty way to do it, but what other more elegant solutions are out there?
  21. Does the circled thing need blocked off or should it be open to release pressure?
  22. Hello, I am new to this forum, and have a few questions. First a little background- I just turned 16 and wanted a classic head-turner as my first car, and decided upon a BMW 2002 or a Datsun 510. I purchased a clean 1975 BMW 2002 for $4500 2 months ago and want to increase the horsepower. I was in central Oregon this weekend and visited my grandparents' friend who owned two 2002's in show quality. He was showing me the engine and said by installing dual Dell'Orto side draft intakes and a special camshaft, and new headers (not sure what those are), and a new inter-cooler he was able to increase the horsepower from 106 to around 180. This one was a 1976. I've got about $1000 at my disposal with a steady job so money is not an issue. Mods I've done so far include new spark-plug wires and electronic ignition, and plan on putting better performance shocks/springs in order to lower the car a bit and increase handling as well. Again, I just need to know how much a Side-Draft Intake Manifold would set me back, and if I needed to order anything else in addition to it in order for it to work (like a cam for example). -I can attach pictures if needed, and will answer any questions as quickly as I can... Let me help you help me. -Thanks, Carter
  23. Hey all, After much consideration, I've decided to rebuild the engine of my 75' 02 after I blew the head gasket and sent it off to my BMW specialist who told me I need a new engine (major bummer). I bought the car 6 months ago, put in 3x the amount I bought it for (on body work, rust removal, interior parts) and I've only driven it under 10hrs total. Anyways, I need direction in relation to removing the cylinder head. I've read a lot about the process (some of which is difficult to follow for a beginner such as myself), however, I'm currently stuck trying to figure out what I need to disconnect from the intake manifold (the stuff on top) and what can stay? I'm also not sure what to do with the chain tensioner and the chain itself. I've read you should "Tie the plastic zip tie through the upper timing gear and chain to hold the chain in place on the gear" but not sure what this really means and what the purpose for this is. I've already done all of the following: set the car to TDC drained the coolant from engine and radiator drained the oil removed exhaust manifold removed upper timing chain cover air filter coolant hoses dizzy Here's a pic of the current state of my (very dirty) engine. Any advice on next steps would be EXTREMELY appreciated. Thanks C
  24. I am looking for a new Throddle Push Rod Bushing (I think it is #35411103775), #18 in the diagram. This seems to be NLA. Is there an alternative part for this, or is it just make-it-yourself?

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