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Found 14 results

  1. I am putting in an Esty carpet kit, so i figured i would take some pics along the way. any suggestions to make this process better are appreciated! When you get the box with the kit in the mail, open it up and check out all the cool pieces. Do not lose or misplace one and think Esty forgot to put it in the box. She didn't, you lost it. ? I used Esty's posted instructions as a guide. Things you need: -the carpet -3m super 90 spray adhesive -set of misc clamps from Lowes -razor knife -good pair of scissors -marker assuming you already r
  2. Today was a really big big day. I assembled the transmission and engine together. Then I pulled the subframe and mounted the engine on the subframe. I am going with the bottom up install. I did the lower the engine in method last time and I really hated it. This was so so much easier. Fully dressed motor ready to be lifted in! Beautiful motor. Love it! Its home awaits Had to get the wiring harness in so the
  3. When I bought my 2002 it did not come with a rear bench... it was deleted. I think I'd like to put one back... I'm sure this is an easy task but what mounting hardware is required? RealOEM's diagram isn't helpful... neither was the search.
  4. Scored some ST bars and did lots of searching on front sway bar orientation but no concise answer. If the box is the ground which photo is correct? Photo one the front of the bar is angled up Photo two the front of the bar is angled down. Thanks!
  5. To hide them I set the speakers below the sheet metal so they would be flush with the surface. The speakers had a high ring of plastic around the circumference and it acted as a spacer keeping the center of the cone down below the surface of the deck. Start by taking out the rear parcel shelf cover. It has a couple of clips that pop out like the ones that hold the door panel on. . First take your speakers and position them where you want them on the deck. Bear in mind your evaporitive canister is underneath the rear deck on the passenger side. If you want to retain the canister be careful to position your speaker inboard of where the canister mounts. I didnt care about the canister since I am venting out the back as the euro cars do and it allowed for better speaker placement(further apart) My speakers came with spacers which I used as a template to trace the outline of the speakers onto the metal deck. Once you drill a pilot hole you can use a sheet metal nibbler(best tool for this) or some other implement of destruction. The nibbler I used made it easy and it cuts nice and clean. Drill your holes for the screws using the same template that came with the speakers and mount them with machine screws, washers and nuts. Now make a paper template of the back parcel shelf. Tape it over the rear deck and rub it with a pencil to get the outline of the speaker holes in the deck. Take the paper template and lay it over the vinyl parcel shelf and tape it down. Working on a piece of cardboard on the floor I used a utility knife to cut through the template and parcel shelf and cut out both speaker holes. I bought a yard of speaker grill cloth from Parts Unlimited that was thick enough to make the speakers invisible but made to let sound through. It was about $24 for the material and there is enough to do two shelves. I used the same clips I used on the headliner to clip the speaker cloth around the perimeter of the shelf after I glued it with 3M aerosol spray 90. Clip it first and then go around the edge doing 10 clips at a time and keep the material taut. Let it dry overnight and replace it. I used fat mat on the rear deck and under the seat back as well to kill any resonant vibrations.
  6. I thought I would remove the factory spacer plates and quickly install the fixed camber plates I purchased from an eBay vendor today... NOT. I did manage to do the job on the lift with the complete suspension and wheels installed. The hard part was getting everything to fit. No instructions were included but if they had been, they probably would have said, "Some trimming may be necessary to fit." I had to radius/chamfer the inside on the camber plate to fit correctly on the strut bearing without gouging the rubber. (I noticed this after I slightly gouged the rubber the first time I put it together foolishly assuming it was going to fit.) Once I had the camber plate properly mated to the strut bearing I then had issues getting that assembly to fit correctly into the car. I had to slightly enlarge the strut hole in the body to clear the strut bearing which was hitting the inboard edge. The driver's side is done and was a learning experience. The passenger side should go quicker. PASSENGER SIDE BEFORE DRIVER'S SIDE AFTER
  7. I'm planning on replacing a water pump. ('74 non-Tii) I got the new one (new new T-stat and rad cap) from Blunt on Thursday, and it came w/ a really thin paper gasket. I just got back from Pep Boys to get the coolant and blue RTV. I asked them if I needed RTV in addition to the paper gasket. The guy said I only needed the paper gasket. Soooo, what do you think? - Should I just use the paper gasket only? - If I use both should RTV go the new pump, and the paper gasket go on the block? I'm sure I'll be OK doing either, but I'm paranoid, and want to get this done right. Even if I don't use the RTV, it can go in the tool box in the trunk for emergencies. Also plan on replacing T-stat and radiator cap (the original, whose seal crumbled and caused all of this), and draining the block. Thanks in advance for the suggestions.... - Chris
  8. Trying to slide the headliner sunroof panel to the front after installing newly painted sunroof. Can't seem to get past the forks holding the front edge of the sunroof. When I reverse the forks, ie: flip them, the sunroof doesn't fit correctly. It's way up in the front. Seems the forks have a plastic slider which I assume rides on the top rail and when installed thusly preclude the headliner panel from getting past them to reach the front snap holes. What am I missing here ?
  9. I am putting in an Esty carpet kit, so i figured i would take some pics along the way. any suggestions to make this process better are appreciated! When you get the box with the kit in the mail, open it up and check out all the cool pieces. Do not lose or misplace one and think Esty forgot to put it in the box. She didn't, you lost it. ? I used Esty's posted instructions as a guide. Things you need: -the carpet -3m super 90 spray adhesive -set of misc clamps from Lowes -razor knife -good pair of scissors -marker assuming you already removed entire interior, put down Rammat and put down a layer of Ensolite.. Start with the back piece that goes under the rear seat. you will have to trim the center tunnel opening to make it 1/4 in larger. once you get that to fit, trim the outside edges as they will need to conform to rocker shape. the top of the piece will be too tall. fold it over the top of the metal wall, mark where the back part of the wall is, and trim off the extra. will be around an inch. now get out the super 90. spray back of carpet and reat seat support (including the top). wait two minutes. CAREFULLY place the carpet in place, starting with the center. work out to the sides. this adhesive is unforgiving. once you touch it together, it is stuck. once the front is stuck, clamp the top vertical part, then fold over the top and clamp it down. in about 10min you can pull the clamps off. next comes the rear side rocker pieces. this did not need much trimming. i just aligned the top unfinished edge with the door edge. needed to cut about one inch slit at front and rear of the seat support to allow carpet to fold down. kit i have put carpet all the way accross the seat mount with the vinyl hanging on the inside. now is a good time to cut the hole for the seat slider lever....and poke holes for the seatbelt bolts! the gluing part of this...i only put glue on the top and first inch or two down the sides. this makes the side panel sort of a flap that allows access to wiring and gas line without ripping up the carpet. next is the front rocker pieces. on these the only trim i did was cut a "V" for stress relief in the top front part about 6in back. if you test fit you will see why. the back of this piece should overlap the rear piece by about 1/2in. i glued this the same way as the rear rocker piece, just the top and about an inch or so down the sides. next comes the kick panels. these in clipped the top back 1/4in of the nice edging off to make it fit easier under the pinch welt. install is pretty easy. jam it as far up as it will go and align the back edge with the door opening edge. on the drivers side don't forget to mark and poke holes for the hood release lever. the upper bolt for this actually needed a little "V" cut in the edging. it helped to clamp the back edge until the glue set. that is as far as i have got so far. more tomorrow when i put the center tunnel piece down.... carpet install....part 2 ok, so the side pieces are in, time to do the mother of all carpet pieces the center tunnel section. first, go buy a second can of super 90 adhesive. the first one is about to run out. next, look at the area around the gas pedal on the floor and the center tunnel. do not layer on the padding or sound deadener in either place, especially if you have or ever want to put a 5 spd in. the extra thickness will interfere with the gas pedal and the room for your shoe between the brake and the tunnel. esty's center piece is pretty close, but you will need to make a bunch of adjustment all around. start at the back. the back of the piece against the rear seat support is the reference. i had to elongate the brake lever opening at the back of the opening. be careful if you widen the opening, it is deceiving, you really don't need much. i also had to make some cuts around the seat support to get it to rap nicely. the gear shift hole was right on. the front and around the edges is where you need to get creative. a number of stress relief slices and "v"'s need to be cut to allow the carpet to lie semi flat. also need to make cut to fit around the gas pedal mounting points. now that you have all the trim and shaping done...here comes the fun part. how to you get this ungainly big piece of carpet covered in glue and place accurately? the trick is not all at once, and don't cover everthing with glue! you really only need glue on the top of the tunnel and slightly down the sides. i laid out the piece upside down and marked in cross-hatch where the glue will be eventually be needed. when putting the piece in, start from the back and apply the glue in sections. don't cover the entire thing with glue! i first did the section from the e-brake back. sorry, no pic's of this part. my patient wife was getting the camera when i stuck it down. next did the rest of the piece. put the tranny in 4th gear to give the hole in the carpet a clear shot on down. adding glue and sticking it down it really helps to have a second set of hands at this point to carefully place the carpet and hold it down until the glue sets. end part two. ------------------------------- carpet install - part 3 at this point you have two options. you can flip up the sides and spray glue under there to stick them down, or you can leave it as is. i think i will leave the center section as is. i made enough stress relief cuts that it actually hangs nicely. once the center console is in, it will be fine. leaving the flaps unglued also makes it easier to run wires underneath. the floor mats really don't need to be glued at all, the set nicely in place and don't move around. here are some pics with the floor mats in place. note, getting the drivers side around the pedals is not that bad. clutch on first, then brake, then push it way down and twist it 45deg to the left. gas pedal stub should slide on at this point. once the mat is down, use a razor knife to make two front to back slices over the gas pedal studs to let them poke through the carpet. there is one place where i will ask Esty for her opinion on fit. maybe it is my car. the pass side front floor mat looks like it could be an inch thinner on the tunnel side with maybe a little more curve. as you can see from the pics, it bunches up just a little. since is is nicely trimmed in black,i did not want to make a stress relief cut in it. there are still some details i need to finish, like poking holes for the seat belt bolts and the seat mount bolts, but the install is 95% done. i will refinish the seat mounts before getting to the little details. ------------------------ with the exception of the pinch welt, I finished the carpet install. wow, what a difference!! Esty's carpet kit came out great. overall, very happy with the Esty Carpet Kit! It was not that difficult to install, and her sense of humor in her blog instructions was great! highly recommended if your 02 needs new rugs... ? View full article
  10. I'm trying to put a stereo into a 1976 02, I'm having trouble finding a power and ground source for it. I've tried to run it off of the cigarette lighter but it doesn't seem to have enough juice. I'm probably doing something wrong here since this is my first stereo installation, please help!
  11. Any hints or tips to installing the cable linkage for the Linx manifold?. I am using it in my project and some have complained about the feel and had re-installed it a couple of times to get it right. Thanks
  12. My webber is a 32/36 dgav33a I have this weber was given with my 1600 I know it needs rebuilt I dont know what all it needs. Also i was looking a little into it and think it may only work on a 2002 like some of my other parts I got with the car. Also do i need a conversion kit? Thanks for the help!
  13. A few years back I put my car into a shallow ditch nose first and did in the red mechanical fan and my radiator. After replacing the radiator with a new 320 version, I could no longer fit a mechanical fan, so just to get by I installed the Standon AC fan back into the nose. That was almost 7 years ago and I finally got around to putting a proper fan in to replace the noisy and probably inefficient AC fan. Thought I'd share the process and results. I bought a Derale fan from Summit Racing. Here is the link to the details: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16212/overview/ It arrived quickly and was well packed. After removing the front grills, I quickly realized it was not going to be going in from that direction and that the radiator was going to have to come out. About 2 hours later, I slide the fan into the nose through the radiator opening and left it sitting there loose until the radiator was reinstalled. I then worked from the front through the grill holes to get the fan lined up and attached. I was concerned that I might have gotten the wrong fan because there was interference between mounting holes on the fan and the body - particularly the two braces directly in front of the radiator. I did eventually find an orientation for the unit that allowed to to sit flush up to the radiator on the rubber pads provided. Mounted it using the through-the-radiator bits that came with the kit (kind of like linear zip ties instead of circular ones). The whole process took about 3 hours. I had hoped for something much quieter than the old Standon fan, but the new one is not really any quieter. I'm kind of disappointed in this aspect of the replacement. The fan is two speed with like 900cfm on "low", and 1200cfm on "high". I currently have it hooked up on the low speed because it is the quieter of the two and plan to run the lead for the high speed to the rear defrost switch on the dash (rear defrost doesn't work and don't need it here in Georgia anyway). That way if I get into a situation where the low speed can't hold temp (which hasn't happened yet) I can manually kick in the higher speed. I had the old fan controlled by a thermostat and relay set so it kicked on at 180 degrees, and off at 170. I am still using that set up, but would like to figure out how to allow the fan to run after the key is off, because right now it turns off with the ignition. I'm thinking it shouldn't be too difficult, but I am wondering if the water pump isn't pushing coolant through the radiator, will it really help to allow the fan to run after ignition is off.
  14. For what it's worth the fastest way to install an M42 in a 2002 is to mount it to the subframe out of the car, slide it under the jacked up car, and raise the whole thing from the engine bay with an engine crane. One person can do it in an hour or so (of course, there's still the wiring, plumbing and accessories to hook up). See more in my project blog at: http://tx02.blogspot.com/2013/04/m42-installedagain.html
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