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Found 9 results

  1. What fuel line & how much line should I be looking for (comes in meters) to replace on my '72 2002? Could use any help. I'm ready to order the lines, the carpet is taken out and fuel tank replaced. Looks like there might be 2 fuel lines, one from the gas tank and another running through the car interior? I actually do not have the original line from the tank, prior mechanic took it out. The interior line is present, is the original and should maybe be replaced just due to age & opportunity. I've read through the topic on FAQ, might've missed the topic for 2002, see some on tii's details. Thanks!
  2. I did search before asking. I swear. Working through my new-to-me 74 tii. Brakes and front end almost done so while I wait on parts I moved to the fuel delivery system. Tank looks great inside. I drained it, pulled the pick-up, cleaned the screen, and reinstalled with new rubber gasket. I have a new filter for the front end and correct rubber line where needed. I dropped the pump / canister assembly and cleaned everything up. Now I have two questions: 1. Should I prime the pump in some way or another prior to trying to start the car? I always thought it was a no-no to run an electrical pump dry. 2. Anyone know of a good source for an inline fuel filter? I want to put one between the tank and the pump as my pump does not have the inlet screen (replaced in 1995 with aftermarket) I can find plenty of 1/2 inch inlet/out fuel filters. 12mm is not much smaller than that. Safe to use?
  3. This might sound like a silly question, but I found a new gas tank for my '72 2002 and it has no return spout. My current tank has one. Can i use the tank without the spout?
  4. Are there any other holes in the trunk of a 76 from at or near the fuel tank to under the vehicle other than the one for the fuel return line? I am currently using the return line as intended, but I'd like to run my fuel supply line next to it, at least to see if my "gas-in-the-cabin" smell is from my fuel send. I'd prefer not to drill another hole if I can help it, if it gets to that point of effort I'll just replace the fuel send line (I have a new one from Blunt all set to go) I just figured the 15min to run a piece of 8mm (I have SS braid covered) fuel line along the frame rail would be better than pulling out seats, carpet etc to run the other line. thanks for any ideas. Harry
  5. so i was installing some new rubber fuel lines. and i bought the 5/16th ID fuel line. and taking a look at the older fuel lines. and they seem to be a much small diameter. i worry that the larger fuel line isnt letting my electric low pressure electric pump build the pressure it needs to push the fuel to my weber carburetor. my car runs with sometimes when i begin to give it throttle, it will bog down very harshly. i believe this to possibly be a not-so-well tuned carburetor. but would the different diamater fuel line make a difference? also, what is a good fuel pressure regulator for the money? right now i am not running a regulator.
  6. I recently purchased a 1976 2002. The weber 32/36 carb was off the motor so I rebuilt it. When putting it back on the vehicle, I'm a bit confused as to where certain hoses go. I don't live in California so I don't need all the emissions stuff but there are some funky splits going on with some of the hoses and top hole on the water choke connected to the weber carb is plugged. Please see the write up I did in the three attachments below. Any help would be greatly appreciated. FYI, not all these photos are of my vehicle. Only photos 3 and 6 are my car.
  7. A Happy Thanksgiving! First time working on a tii K-pump installation. I've run into a couple of issues installing the throttle linkage. First, as shown in the attached photo, when turning the throttle body shaft its full range, there is close (1/4" or so) interference with the nylon fuel lines going back to #3 and #4. The fuel lines are "new" ones. I'd much prefer the lines not get abraided by the rotating support one the shaft. Is this normal fit? I' thought to tie the lines back with cable ties, but not sure if putting that pressure on them would also be a bad idea. A second issue is that there is some interference within the tuna can that I can feel when rotating the throttle body shaft beyond 60%, the cam runs against something inside the can. What is the procedure to fix that? The shaft has 2-3mm vertical play, and is all the way "down". Thanks for any help.
  8. I searched all over the forum and never found the answer, so I thought I would document it here. The input on a Weber 32/36 (with a threaded fitting on the end) is a 1/8 -27 NPT fitting. How do I know... i spent some time at Home Depot and the at Canadian Tire today going through the dies and taps. I happened to have a spare lid off an old junk carb that I could use. The interesting part is that the threaded bore seems to be tapered quickly, so if you put in a 1/8" pipe fitting you get two threads in and then it starts to bind... but if you match the bolt to a die, it goes on perfectly. So if you are running AN style fittings for your fuel delivery hose to your Weber, you need to get a 1/8" to -6 or -4 AN line. I will post pics once I have my line installed. As always use Teflon paste, not tape, to seal between the 1/8 fitting and the carb (if you feel you need to).
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