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Found 5 results

  1. Last winter project. Bought this evaporator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HGJCYDE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Expansion valve: https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2003-2004-Ford-Expedition-A-C-Expansion-Valve-Rear-47398ZB-Expansion-Valve-/292766864272?hash=item442a43d390 Fabricated the sheet metal. The vent was salvaged from a Behr unit. Fans was a largest SPAL pusher that could be fitted into the available space (5.2"). Added a PWM fan controller.
  2. Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF): I want to remove my evaporator assembly to service it. Is the BEHR evaporator assembly (plastic box) just sitting on the transmission hump and only held in place by the refrigerant lines or are there fasteners that hold the assembly to the hump? I have a 1976 2002 with a BEHR AC assembly. The AC system has been converted by a prior owner to 134a refrigerant. The compressor is specific to 134a refrigerant so it is an “upgrade” from the original dealer installed R12 compressor. I haven’t taken the time to see if the condenser and condenser fan are upgrades, but squinting through the louvers in the nose lead me to believe that the condenser and its fan seem newer than having been there since 1976. The condenser fan measures 11” in diameter and “u-turn” manifold piping extend beyond the condenser fan by about 1” on each side. The evaporator assembly appears to be the original dealer installed equipment. I’ve owned the car for just a couple of years and the AC system worked well in Raleigh and more recently in Orlando – tough climates. Recently, the evaporator fan stopped blowing. The fan blower switch didn’t operate smoothly anymore. I suspected a power problem as the system worked fine ever since I bought it. The compressor clutch engaged/disengaged; the air inside the evaporator assembly at the squirrel cage fan felt cold to the finger; the condenser fan blew when the compressor was engaged. When I looked into the ends of the squirrel cage evaporator fan ends (with the console fully assembled), I could see that the evaporator fan was not spinning. Infrequently, but not always, the squirrel cage would engage for a brief second when I spun (or “primed”) it with my finger it with the AC system turned on. I took the console apart (the car still has the “U” shaped console brace). There is a bit of discrete “craftsmanship” (literally, popsicle sticks and crazy glue) used to connect the trapezoidal console face to the underside of the dash and to the brace at the bottom – but is holds tight, doesn’t squeak while driving and it is serviceable once I’ve removed the side panels and the shifter’s boot/console assembly. I suspected that the evaporator fan motor had a power issue – either a poor connection or possibly the electrical components to the fan are worn or dirty. In order to remove the evaporator assembly, it was obvious that I would have to disconnect the evaporator intake and discharge hoses. The system was charged so I took it to a mechanic who had some 2002 experience, but not much “institutional knowledge” retained with their service team – but they were willing to try. They were honest and I effectively paid some of their tuition as they worked on the car. The mechanic diagnosed a faulty fan blower switch. I am sure this was part of the problem. The selector knob didn’t operate smoothly anymore – turns out a ball bearing had been dropped out of its race. I sourced a replacement switch from Tsingtao_1903 (thank you!), took his apart by drilling out the 1 ½” rivets and serviced my switch by harvesting some springs and I will harvest a back panel. This will improve my switch’s functionality as well as its structural integrity. The mechanic reinstalled the fan blower switch and put the console back to together. The evaporator fan motor still won’t spin. I hit the pause button with the mechanic. I am inclined to perform the diagnostic work (if not the repair work) myself, at this point. I’ve learned a lot from the book: Just Needs a Recharge – The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning, by Rob Siegel. I want to now pull the evaporator assembly and take a look at the fan blower motor. Before I take the car into a mechanic to evacuate the refrigerant so I can remove and service the fan motor, does anyone have any advice?
  3. I'm sure this has been done before, but I wanted to see if anyone has any photos or advice. I'd like to add air conditioning to my '75 to deal with these Atlanta summers, but all of the aftermarket center consoles look, well, aftermarket. I want to keep the stock look, so that would mean hiding the evaporator in the engine bay and routing some vent tubing to direct the air into the cabin somewhere. Is there a reason I shouldn't do this? Does the engine bay get too hot? Maybe the glovebox is a better option? Those with experience please chime in, I'm new to the A/C game.
  4. I installed a Clardy air conditioning unit in my '76 when the car was new and it's actually worked great ever since -- for '02 air conditioning, which is, to say, well below the air conditioning standards of Detroit in '76. But among the unit's "design quirks," the right console panel is partially secured by a 1 1/8" screw through the panel and directly into the A/C's blower, which intrudes noticeably into the passenger foot well. Over the last 39 years, I'm confident I've removed and replaced that panel 25 times -- to futz with the radio, look for the dropped tii clock thumbscrews, etc. And I always wondered why I never "stabbed" the blower fan with that 1 1/8" screw through its heart. Mind you, the factory instructions told me to put this screw exactly there and I never considered using a different fastener or a different location. Two months ago, however, while planning the installation of a Becker Grand Prix Stereo in the car -- its first radio was a Europa II Stereo -- I managed to "stab" the blower wheel with that 1 1/8" screw! I didn't realize it until I turned on the A/C and the blower wheel made a frightening "this is my last revolution" noise, followed by utter silence. And that...mishap, led me to discover that both the original blower housing and blower wheel remain in production by the original manufacturer, American Plasti-Plate of Tyler, Texas. The housing is their part number BH 4500 and the wheel is their part number BW 45-325. American Plasti-Plate doesn't sell retail, but Arizona Mobile Air Inc. (ACKits.com) handles American Plasti-Plate parts. Arizona Mobile Air refers to the housing as part number 28-91496 (Blower Housing w/Flange BH 4500), $17.36 currently, and the wheel as part number 28-01716 (Blower Wheel ABS with Clip), $12.76 currently. The housing is back ordered for 4 months but the wheel is in stock. I'm looking for a more-or-less exact replacement for the electric blower motor but I haven't yet identified the best candidate! Regards, Steve
  5. Frigiking A/C unit. Includes evaporator, blower, knobs, and all trim pieces. Only cosmetic issue is the bottom right corner of the front panel broke off. Looks like the previous owner taped it back together. Easy to fix properly with glue. $250 plus shipping from Atlanta. FedEx will be pretty expensive since it requires a large box, or I could ship with Amtrak.


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