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Found 7 results

  1. I am putting in an Esty carpet kit, so i figured i would take some pics along the way. any suggestions to make this process better are appreciated! When you get the box with the kit in the mail, open it up and check out all the cool pieces. Do not lose or misplace one and think Esty forgot to put it in the box. She didn't, you lost it. 🙂 I used Esty's posted instructions as a guide. Things you need: -the carpet -3m super 90 spray adhesive -set of misc clamps from Lowes -razor knife -good pair of scissors -marker assuming you already removed entire interior, put down Rammat and put down a layer of Ensolite.. Start with the back piece that goes under the rear seat. you will have to trim the center tunnel opening to make it 1/4 in larger. once you get that to fit, trim the outside edges as they will need to conform to rocker shape. the top of the piece will be too tall. fold it over the top of the metal wall, mark where the back part of the wall is, and trim off the extra. will be around an inch. now get out the super 90. spray back of carpet and reat seat support (including the top). wait two minutes. CAREFULLY place the carpet in place, starting with the center. work out to the sides. this adhesive is unforgiving. once you touch it together, it is stuck. once the front is stuck, clamp the top vertical part, then fold over the top and clamp it down. in about 10min you can pull the clamps off. next comes the rear side rocker pieces. this did not need much trimming. i just aligned the top unfinished edge with the door edge. needed to cut about one inch slit at front and rear of the seat support to allow carpet to fold down. kit i have put carpet all the way accross the seat mount with the vinyl hanging on the inside. now is a good time to cut the hole for the seat slider lever....and poke holes for the seatbelt bolts! the gluing part of this...i only put glue on the top and first inch or two down the sides. this makes the side panel sort of a flap that allows access to wiring and gas line without ripping up the carpet. next is the front rocker pieces. on these the only trim i did was cut a "V" for stress relief in the top front part about 6in back. if you test fit you will see why. the back of this piece should overlap the rear piece by about 1/2in. i glued this the same way as the rear rocker piece, just the top and about an inch or so down the sides. next comes the kick panels. these in clipped the top back 1/4in of the nice edging off to make it fit easier under the pinch welt. install is pretty easy. jam it as far up as it will go and align the back edge with the door opening edge. on the drivers side don't forget to mark and poke holes for the hood release lever. the upper bolt for this actually needed a little "V" cut in the edging. it helped to clamp the back edge until the glue set. that is as far as i have got so far. more tomorrow when i put the center tunnel piece down.... carpet install....part 2 ok, so the side pieces are in, time to do the mother of all carpet pieces the center tunnel section. first, go buy a second can of super 90 adhesive. the first one is about to run out. next, look at the area around the gas pedal on the floor and the center tunnel. do not layer on the padding or sound deadener in either place, especially if you have or ever want to put a 5 spd in. the extra thickness will interfere with the gas pedal and the room for your shoe between the brake and the tunnel. esty's center piece is pretty close, but you will need to make a bunch of adjustment all around. start at the back. the back of the piece against the rear seat support is the reference. i had to elongate the brake lever opening at the back of the opening. be careful if you widen the opening, it is deceiving, you really don't need much. i also had to make some cuts around the seat support to get it to rap nicely. the gear shift hole was right on. the front and around the edges is where you need to get creative. a number of stress relief slices and "v"'s need to be cut to allow the carpet to lie semi flat. also need to make cut to fit around the gas pedal mounting points. now that you have all the trim and shaping done...here comes the fun part. how to you get this ungainly big piece of carpet covered in glue and place accurately? the trick is not all at once, and don't cover everthing with glue! you really only need glue on the top of the tunnel and slightly down the sides. i laid out the piece upside down and marked in cross-hatch where the glue will be eventually be needed. when putting the piece in, start from the back and apply the glue in sections. don't cover the entire thing with glue! i first did the section from the e-brake back. sorry, no pic's of this part. my patient wife was getting the camera when i stuck it down. next did the rest of the piece. put the tranny in 4th gear to give the hole in the carpet a clear shot on down. adding glue and sticking it down it really helps to have a second set of hands at this point to carefully place the carpet and hold it down until the glue sets. end part two. ------------------------------- carpet install - part 3 at this point you have two options. you can flip up the sides and spray glue under there to stick them down, or you can leave it as is. i think i will leave the center section as is. i made enough stress relief cuts that it actually hangs nicely. once the center console is in, it will be fine. leaving the flaps unglued also makes it easier to run wires underneath. the floor mats really don't need to be glued at all, the set nicely in place and don't move around. here are some pics with the floor mats in place. note, getting the drivers side around the pedals is not that bad. clutch on first, then brake, then push it way down and twist it 45deg to the left. gas pedal stub should slide on at this point. once the mat is down, use a razor knife to make two front to back slices over the gas pedal studs to let them poke through the carpet. there is one place where i will ask Esty for her opinion on fit. maybe it is my car. the pass side front floor mat looks like it could be an inch thinner on the tunnel side with maybe a little more curve. as you can see from the pics, it bunches up just a little. since is is nicely trimmed in black,i did not want to make a stress relief cut in it. there are still some details i need to finish, like poking holes for the seat belt bolts and the seat mount bolts, but the install is 95% done. i will refinish the seat mounts before getting to the little details. ------------------------ with the exception of the pinch welt, I finished the carpet install. wow, what a difference!! Esty's carpet kit came out great. overall, very happy with the Esty Carpet Kit! It was not that difficult to install, and her sense of humor in her blog instructions was great! highly recommended if your 02 needs new rugs... 🙂
  2. Day ~63 – 68 I’m trying to get a whole bunch of things done so that I can drive this car before winter comes and as you may know, it comes pretty quick around here. Weather Stripping/Seals - Driver/Passenger Doors Seals (Uro) I had read some negative reviews about the Uro door seals but I also read that some weren’t happy with the OEM version. Given the big price difference, I cheaped out and went with the Uro door seals. Installing the door seals, is a slight bitch. Jamming it in to the aluminum bracket channel isn’t fun and then removing it to add weather stripping adhesive is even less fun. When sticking the trim to the frame curvatures (where there is no channel), it’s not as it does not want to stay in place. Following the window adjustment, here are my issues with the URO door seals L - Trunk Seal (OEM) Much easier than the door seals, I simply stretched it out in to place and glued it in with some binder clips. - Front & Back Windshields (OEM) As with the headliner install, I followed ClayW’s instructions (BMW2002FAQ) for installation. Installing the glass with the seal was surprisingly easy, installing the lock-strip was a little more difficult but with the help of a lock-strip tool it wasn’t that bad. Interior Finishing - B-Pillar Trim I cut and glued in some new vinyl trim (fabric) on the B-pillars. Similar to what I did on the A-pillars but without a foam backing. - Door Cards (Rear) Cleaned them up, popped in new clips and installed them. - Carpet I purchased a carpet from Esty way back in Feb of 2015, it was finally time to install it. I used Myrtle’s instructions (BMW2002FAQ). It went in pretty easy, but like most things it was time consuming. About the carpet, I don’t like the way the 2 front pieces (driver/passenger “mats”) sit, they have pleats… but Esty does not recommend any additional insulation/sound deadening below the carpet so maybe the additional ½” - ¾“ made the difference. I think the pleats might ease out with some heat/time. - Handbrake Bearing Upgrade Installed the handbrake bearing upgrade I purchased from williamggruff (BMW2002FAQ), seems like a big improvement for little effort & money. - Seat Belts They functioned properly, so I simply washed them with some liquid laundry detergent and hung them out to dry before re-installing them - Speakers The front speakers were originally in custom pods when the foot rest would normally be, I didn’t like that… so I mounted them under the dash. I’ll see how that works out, and might change it in the future but for now, out of sight out of mind. - Seats/Steering Re-Installed the Moto-Lite wood wheel on the weekend… then re-installed the lovely E21 Reccaro seats from Aardvark Racing, last night. Now I have somewhere to sit while bleeding the brakes. Exterior Trim - Cleaned and installed the lower (knee) trim. I used Meguir’s plastic cleaner followed by the polish. They came out pretty good. - Installed the door window finishers. - 1 of the clips was aftermarket and didn’t really hold the trim, so being an impatient SOB, I rigged up a new clip with some scrap aluminum, a bolt and some steel weld. Exhaust / Wideband - I went to a local muffler shop (Federal Muffler) and had a bung installed for the O2 sensor. I sanded it, and painted it with some VHT exhaust paint. Upon installation, I noticed the fit was tighter than I expected (transmission support bar), so I pulled that off and modified it slightly for more clearance - I did the ASPX O2 sensor calibration and waiting to fire it up and see what’s what. Trunk The trunk and the hood were still at the paint shop, unfortunately the hood won’t fit in my XC60 but the trunk lid did. Popped the trunk on, it still needs some alignment but at least it’s out of the way. Up next… Take 2, at bleeding brakes, 1 of the fittings is leaking, seems like it’s not seating properly , nothings ever easy with this piece of junk. Timing & Carb adjustment. I ordered a Innova advanced timing light but before trying that out, I want to rig up a bracket for a throttle return spring. Building a new center console. To accommodate the new gauges & switches. and some other stuff I can't think of right now.
  3. Hello, I bought these thinking I was going to paint my car blue. I changed my mind and the dark blue trim will not match the Sienna Braun Metallic exterior. They are still in the box they were shipped in and never installed or even test fitted or cut or anything. Very clean and will look great in someone who has a black or blue car or maybe seats ?. Price is firm but not set in stone, you can shoot me an offer. Keep in mind I am trying to finish my own car and have a long way to go. I prefer to sell locally but will ship, buyer will pay for shipping.
  4. I am putting in an Esty carpet kit, so i figured i would take some pics along the way. any suggestions to make this process better are appreciated! When you get the box with the kit in the mail, open it up and check out all the cool pieces. Do not lose or misplace one and think Esty forgot to put it in the box. She didn't, you lost it. 🙂 I used Esty's posted instructions as a guide. Things you need: -the carpet -3m super 90 spray adhesive -set of misc clamps from Lowes -razor knife -good pair of scissors -marker assuming you already removed entire interior, put down Rammat and put down a layer of Ensolite.. Start with the back piece that goes under the rear seat. you will have to trim the center tunnel opening to make it 1/4 in larger. once you get that to fit, trim the outside edges as they will need to conform to rocker shape. the top of the piece will be too tall. fold it over the top of the metal wall, mark where the back part of the wall is, and trim off the extra. will be around an inch. now get out the super 90. spray back of carpet and reat seat support (including the top). wait two minutes. CAREFULLY place the carpet in place, starting with the center. work out to the sides. this adhesive is unforgiving. once you touch it together, it is stuck. once the front is stuck, clamp the top vertical part, then fold over the top and clamp it down. in about 10min you can pull the clamps off. next comes the rear side rocker pieces. this did not need much trimming. i just aligned the top unfinished edge with the door edge. needed to cut about one inch slit at front and rear of the seat support to allow carpet to fold down. kit i have put carpet all the way accross the seat mount with the vinyl hanging on the inside. now is a good time to cut the hole for the seat slider lever....and poke holes for the seatbelt bolts! the gluing part of this...i only put glue on the top and first inch or two down the sides. this makes the side panel sort of a flap that allows access to wiring and gas line without ripping up the carpet. next is the front rocker pieces. on these the only trim i did was cut a "V" for stress relief in the top front part about 6in back. if you test fit you will see why. the back of this piece should overlap the rear piece by about 1/2in. i glued this the same way as the rear rocker piece, just the top and about an inch or so down the sides. next comes the kick panels. these in clipped the top back 1/4in of the nice edging off to make it fit easier under the pinch welt. install is pretty easy. jam it as far up as it will go and align the back edge with the door opening edge. on the drivers side don't forget to mark and poke holes for the hood release lever. the upper bolt for this actually needed a little "V" cut in the edging. it helped to clamp the back edge until the glue set. that is as far as i have got so far. more tomorrow when i put the center tunnel piece down.... carpet install....part 2 ok, so the side pieces are in, time to do the mother of all carpet pieces the center tunnel section. first, go buy a second can of super 90 adhesive. the first one is about to run out. next, look at the area around the gas pedal on the floor and the center tunnel. do not layer on the padding or sound deadener in either place, especially if you have or ever want to put a 5 spd in. the extra thickness will interfere with the gas pedal and the room for your shoe between the brake and the tunnel. esty's center piece is pretty close, but you will need to make a bunch of adjustment all around. start at the back. the back of the piece against the rear seat support is the reference. i had to elongate the brake lever opening at the back of the opening. be careful if you widen the opening, it is deceiving, you really don't need much. i also had to make some cuts around the seat support to get it to rap nicely. the gear shift hole was right on. the front and around the edges is where you need to get creative. a number of stress relief slices and "v"'s need to be cut to allow the carpet to lie semi flat. also need to make cut to fit around the gas pedal mounting points. now that you have all the trim and shaping done...here comes the fun part. how to you get this ungainly big piece of carpet covered in glue and place accurately? the trick is not all at once, and don't cover everthing with glue! you really only need glue on the top of the tunnel and slightly down the sides. i laid out the piece upside down and marked in cross-hatch where the glue will be eventually be needed. when putting the piece in, start from the back and apply the glue in sections. don't cover the entire thing with glue! i first did the section from the e-brake back. sorry, no pic's of this part. my patient wife was getting the camera when i stuck it down. next did the rest of the piece. put the tranny in 4th gear to give the hole in the carpet a clear shot on down. adding glue and sticking it down it really helps to have a second set of hands at this point to carefully place the carpet and hold it down until the glue sets. end part two. ------------------------------- carpet install - part 3 at this point you have two options. you can flip up the sides and spray glue under there to stick them down, or you can leave it as is. i think i will leave the center section as is. i made enough stress relief cuts that it actually hangs nicely. once the center console is in, it will be fine. leaving the flaps unglued also makes it easier to run wires underneath. the floor mats really don't need to be glued at all, the set nicely in place and don't move around. here are some pics with the floor mats in place. note, getting the drivers side around the pedals is not that bad. clutch on first, then brake, then push it way down and twist it 45deg to the left. gas pedal stub should slide on at this point. once the mat is down, use a razor knife to make two front to back slices over the gas pedal studs to let them poke through the carpet. there is one place where i will ask Esty for her opinion on fit. maybe it is my car. the pass side front floor mat looks like it could be an inch thinner on the tunnel side with maybe a little more curve. as you can see from the pics, it bunches up just a little. since is is nicely trimmed in black,i did not want to make a stress relief cut in it. there are still some details i need to finish, like poking holes for the seat belt bolts and the seat mount bolts, but the install is 95% done. i will refinish the seat mounts before getting to the little details. ------------------------ with the exception of the pinch welt, I finished the carpet install. wow, what a difference!! Esty's carpet kit came out great. overall, very happy with the Esty Carpet Kit! It was not that difficult to install, and her sense of humor in her blog instructions was great! highly recommended if your 02 needs new rugs... 🙂 View full article
  5. I have a 1969 base and 1973 tii that I ordered in August (carpet #1 and #8) on www.estycarpet.com and Natural color Sisal Mat that I have never installed and are still in same box sent from esty. In restoring my tii the current Fjord Blue was discovered to not be the original color; but YUK! Sahara. In building a correct car, I am now covering the black seats in Saddle and the salt/pepper carpet will not work. Also, I was thinking of changing the saddle in my 1969 but decided to keep so the #8 or the Natural Colored Sisal mats wont work either. Good news is I get to work with esty again and order some new carpet! Good news for hopefully you, is I have these available NOW for shipping. I am selling for what I paid for them and will ship at my cost as long as you are in the lower 48 states. #1 - Salt/Pepper Carpet Set - $335- SOLD #8 - Brown/Tan Carpet Set - $335 Natural Color Sisal Mat - $175 Please email me at [email protected] or text/call at 858-208-8449
  6. Today was a day that has even 3 years in the making! Today I installed the carpet kit I bought from Esty. Years ago I bought a dark blue carpet kit to replace my now 37 year old dark blue carpet. My carpet now is white in places due to sun bleaching and old age. The kit was excellent. High quality Very well made and in the middle I got stuck and she emailed me back within minutes with more info. That’s amazing! Any issues with the kit is strictly the fault of the installer (Me). I put in some more insulation to help with the temps as well as maybe make it a tad bit quitter. So after 7 hours of work and a few emails from Esty…I am VERY pleased with the outcome! No more dirty and dingy carpet….Definitely makes the interior much nicer…now the next major upgrade for the interior is the dingy headliner. Full writeup on my site.... http://www.project2002.com/2002updates/?p=471
  7. Who is Sick of Esty? Okay, I have been a 2002 enthusiast all my life and a Tii owner for 34 years, well before the Internet when parts were plentiful. Even then the Dealer did not want to bother with these little cars and these days parts are simply getting much harder to find. Now along comes a valuable resource like DenverTii and you are tearing him down? Bryce has helped so many including me where he has also gone way, way beyond the typical customer service. I mean he's been incredibly helpful and given me lots of extra time which he did not even need to do. Then on the other hand, there is Esty, and I mean what a piece of work! Ever notice that she is at the very center of every tumult where she outright slanders people. Then quoting other outlandish statements as if they were facts to actually create as much controversy as possible? It is so malicious that people seem to be afraid of her or immediately take her side without ever listening to facts. Here's what I know, if you have a problem with Bryce, give him a call. Interestingly if you want to talk to Esty there is no number on her website? Curious to know too if there is any last name that anyone has. It's really amazing to me that people even listen to this woman. The most important question here is who coronated Esty as Queen of the FAQ? Oh, excuse me, it was Esty herself. Forgive me if I don't bow. Paul Ruiz


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