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  1. Cleaning up shop today and found the digital file for this diagram. We have a giant one laminated here at the shop. Don't bother emailing the address/company on the page, we've tried to reach them but no response (out of business?). Hope you all enjoy this, could be very helpful for some people. ed.pdf
  2. Has anyone used a small bank of large capacitors for running the starter motor? Think I want to try this. After many years of good service, my pair of PC680 Odyssey batteries are done. I've decided against a lithium-based battery, but I also never liked having two of the Odyssey batteries in parallel all the time. So this time around, I'd like to go to just 1x PC680, but supplement it with several tens of Farads of capacitors in order to help keep the cranking speed up, especially in colder weather. I'm pretty darn sure that 6x 2.7V capacitors wired in series (so a ~16V bank) wired in parallel with the battery would be just the ticket, but curious if anyone has any practical experience with this already? Thanks!
  3. Hey all, I was wondering if I could get some help identifying these wires and connectors.i would like to clean up and replace some of the old wires but would like to know what I’m replacing. thanks! Jackie
  4. I was watching an episode of Wheler Dealers the other night and Mike and Ant were restoring a TR 7. They needed a new wiring harness and Mike was going back to the UK so he stopped in to see one of his mates, who owns a shop accross the pond that specalizes in making new wiring harnesses. The company is called, Auto Sparks and if I recall correctly it has been around for a long time. It was very interesting to watch how they were being made. Long story short, if anyone is looking for a new harness check these out, might just be a good alternative. autosparks.co.uk
  5. While the electrical system of the 2002 is no Lucas catastrophe, it's still 60's level technology and has its fair share of shortcomings. I'll refrain from labeling it 'poorly designed,' but the headlight circuit is one of the primary 2002 electrical systems that has lots of 'room for improvement.' Also, with the popularity of adding additional fog and/or driving lights to these cars, this makes for the perfect time to rewire and improve this whole system while adding such upgrades. A quick note on 2002 wiring Generally speaking, Germans are clever, organized people,
  6. Please add and update this list as you see fit. EXTERIOR: front turn signal bulbs - P25-2 dual filament bulb rear turn signal bulbs - P25-1 single filament bulb (21w) brake light bulbs -P25-1 single filament bulb (21w) side marker bulbs - rear running bulbs - #67 single filament bulb (~10w) - #89 single filament bulb which is brighter (~10w) reverse light bulbs - P25-1 single filament bulb (21w) headlight bulbs - par56 7" fog light bulbs - licence plate bulbs - 6428 (12 volt 3w festoon type 28mm long) INTERIOR: dash bulbs - 2821
  7. Started the harness re-taping and battery relocation. Using 1 inch cloth tape rather than attempting to cut down to 1/2 inch. The harness in the car was dry and flaky after 40+ years of heat. Used Simple Green to clean up the wiring as I went. The engine bay was taped using the cloth tape and I transitioned to flex-cover for the cabin and trunk harness which went on with a bit more ease. No concern for whether it is true to original just want it clean and simple. Mounted the AGM battery in the rear seat area, added the battery cutoff switch and ran the + cable down the driver side to exit the
  8. I am looking for the 2 black plastic pin plugs ( with the wires pigtail terminated ) that plug into the bottom of the voltage regulator and one goes into the back of the altinator, thank you, R
  9. Howdy - so my car running a Weber 32/36 with sync link, 320i alternator and a new radiator with a fan. It keeps dying when I stop or turn slowly using the brakes - which started happening after my mechanic installed the new altealternar, radiator and fan last week. I've checked the float bowl level today, cleared the idle jets, swapped the fuel filter and synched the battery down. The engine doesn't stumble - it just clicks off and my alternator and oil lights come on. If I stop slowly enough it's fine, but any regular braking and boop she's off. No stumble. No violent lurch. It doesn't matter if I'm on a hill or not (live in San Francisco). The engine idles fine, and will easily sit all day happily idling. The engine also starts up fine when it dies, maybe it takes two quick cranks, but I'm always a little flustered by it. My thoughts are electrical related to the brake booster or possibly the fuel pump? But I don't starve the car at speed and the other day I had some very spirited hill climbing with no issue at all. I have a suspicion it's related to using the headlights - but that doesn't make since as it still happens when they're off. I just notice more at night. I let the engine warm up before heading out usually. Very curious.
  10. Hey fellow faq members i was hoping to get a second opinion on a electrical issue i am having with my automatic 74'. Around april my alternator and or regulator died on me so i decided to upgrade to a good used e21 alternator. After replacing the alternator and grounding cable i began to notice electrical issues... my guess was either a bad connection with the new cable or the internal voltage regulator but after replacing it today with a new one and not getting a result i am stumped..... any help would be appreciated. thank you, Littleohtwo
  11. Hello! i just got my 1976 2002 about 2 weeks ago. And i,m not exactly an expert... haha. But I've been looking over the engine, electronics etc.. familiarizing myself with the things i do know about the car.. But mainly i have been trying to figure out what it needs to pass smog so i can register it. there are a few things that I believe are missing or just do not know what they are all together. Hoping to find some help. Thanks, Ronnie
  12. Hello! i just got my 1976 2002 about 2 weeks ago. And i,m not exactly an expert... haha. But I've been looking over the engine, electronics etc.. familiarizing myself with the things i do know about the car.. But mainly i have been trying to figure out what it needs to pass smog so i can register it. there are a few things that I believe are missing or just do not know what they are all together. Hoping to find some help. Thanks, Ronnie
  13. I have found it difficult to search and search and search for the correct bulb replacement, so I've decided to compile as much information as I can to come up with a light bulb replacement guide. This is mostly populated by my knowledge of my 74 squaretail, as well as the information that I can gather throughout the forums. Please feel free to add any information you can though I would like to keep this as a OEM replacement guide (not LED replacement guide) Please add and update this list as you see fit. EXTERIOR: front turn signal bulbs - P25-2 dual filament bulb rear turn signal bulbs - P25-1 single filament bulb (21w) brake light bulbs -P25-1 single filament bulb (21w) side marker bulbs - rear running bulbs - #67 single filament bulb (~10w) - #89 single filament bulb which is brighter (~10w) reverse light bulbs - P25-1 single filament bulb (21w) headlight bulbs - par56 7" fog light bulbs - licence plate bulbs - 6428 (12 volt 3w festoon type 28mm long) INTERIOR: dash bulbs - 2821 (3w) 9 total heater control bulbs - 2721 (1.2 watt) dome light - fasten seatbelt bulb - Here is another list that covers many details. Sometimes I refer to it myself when I do not remember some numbers. --Larry ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Appendix: Bulbs That Fit 2002s Lamp Type________________________________ OSRAM_________ Philips_____ US____MOL Ф__Lighte Head lamp-PAR56/7”_________________________ H6024__________ H6017___ H6024__--_____ -- Front turn/park-21/5 watt (P25-2)_________________ 7528__________ 12499____1034†, 1157‡__--_______ 440/35 Stop lamp-21 Watt (P25-1)______________________ 7506__________ 12498_ 1073†, 2396‡ ______ 460 Rear turn-21 Watt (P25-1)______________________ 7506__________ 12498_ 1073†, 2396‡ _______460 Tail lamp-5 Watt (P5-1)_________________________ 5007 __________12821_____ 89‡___________ 50 Reverse lamp-15 watt (10 Watt)_____________ 7533(5008)_________ (12814) _____1003* _____ 125 (5008) License plate-5 watt festoon base________________ 6418___________ 12844___ N/A____ 36mm (nom)__ 45 Rear side marker_____________________________ 3893___________ 12929_____ 1816l___________ 35 Inside lamp-10W festoon 41mm__________________ 6411____________ 12866____C5W_ 41mm (nom)_ 100 Instrument panel-wedge base____________________ 2821 ___________12256_____ 194____________ 22 ______________________________________________________________________________________ †: longer life, less light ‡: longer life, more light, more current *: short life, but who cares? l: slightly larger, longer life Ф:MOL― Maximum Overall length e: Light output for OEM in lumens View full article
  14. Hello, all. Couldn't figure out if this can be a direct-bolt on for the '76 2002's, and about to replace mine. Mine's on it's last legs, and didn't know of a better place to ask. Apologize if this was mentioned somewhere, but assumed not since most go with M10, M30 & M3 starters. Thanks in advance. LINK: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ULT1/16362/01920.oap?year=1974&make=BMW&model=2002&vi=5173418&ck=Search_starter_5173418_2500&keyword=starter
  15. My gauge cluster lights weren't working, so after switching the bulbs with no luck I started looking at the headlight switch as the potential culprit. Sure enough the coil for the rheostat inside the switch was hanging lose. I ordered a new switch from Rogers Tii, and when I finally got around to installing it I noticed it was slightly different than the switch I took out of the dash. I contacted Rogers and he asked that I send him a few pictures. I did, and his only reply was that one of the switches was European. I've asked him for clarification a few times as to which switch is European, and which is North American but haven't got any reply. Anyway, my point of this thread isn't to slag his business/poor service, but rather I'm just looking to see if anyone can help me identify the switch I was sent? Also, I'm wondering if anyone has ever installed one of these? My buddy and I tried to install it using a multimeter and some trial and error, but couldn't get it set up right. I'm thinking I have some other wiring gremlins to sort out too, but want to see if this new switch is even going to work first. The vertical switch (first picture) is the one I removed, the horizontal one (second picture) is the one I was sent. Thanks in advance.
  16. Does anyone have any heater parts for an early NK? I need everything (box,12v blower motor, heater core, air intake channel) except for the dash controls. I think that the PO was trying to turn the car into a track car. Thanks for any and all assistance. Alex
  17. So, the blinkers and flasher stopped working. I inspected tail light wiring and all connections. All good. Began to suspect flasher relay. Discovered it so was rusty the innards flew out. All that said, where or what do I do for a replacement? I understand they are NLA? Is there an aftermarket substitute or mod? Mine is a 76 with 4 prongs. We tried the EL 13 relay. The 76 has more (non matching) wires than the roundies. Additionally, any current links to a wiring diagram would be helpful. Googled here but found little of use. Better pic
  18. Anybody want to venture a guess as to what these couple parts are? The first 2 pictures are of a bracket attached to the drivers side of the engine, near the oil pan. It has a broken front loop. My guess is it is/was an A/C bracket, thoughts? The second picture is of an electrical nature, I know this because there are wires going into these things hahaha. The black relay is for the horn. My question is about the 2 things to the left and the one to the right. I'm thinking that the left ones are headlight relays, but I wasn't aware that these were on 6 fuse cars (installed by a PO?) I have no idea what the thing is to the right of the horn relay. Thanks! -Robert
  19. Bought some LED replacements per Daniel Stern for the front turn signals. How the @#$% do you get to the @#$% thing to change the bulb? I hate being this dense!
  20. Hi all, Pulled my heater box out last Friday, and upon taking it apart, noticed the insulation on the wires from the resistor to the fan motor was somewhat bumpy and where they contacted the lid of the heater box (the part the fan's mounted in) had been hot enough to go from smooth to bumpy as well. I bench tested the fan last night and it seems to work just fine, although it maybe spins a little less freely than it should - as it spins to a stop, it kind of stops hard (instead of smoothly as you'd expect). I've read the instructions on rebuilding the heater box, and I know it says to lubricate the bushings at either end of the fan motor, but is there anything else I should be suspecting here? I don't want to put this all back and then have to pull it out again.... Thanks! Chris
  21. Hi folks. Where does the wire come from that attaches to the door switch? I recently got my dome light working again recently (via a replacement dome light), and I noticed my passenger door switch worked fine (lighting dome light when door is open, yay), but my driver side didn't. So I ordered a new door switch and went to install it this evening, and unscrewed it and pulled the old one out, and saw there weren't any wires on the end of the switch (even the spade was missing). So now I'm hunting for the wire, or wires (I searched and saw on late models, there might be 2 wires attached there, one for dome light and one for 'Fasten Seat Belt'). So anyone know where the wire(s) enter that hidden inner front fender area? Do they come in from the top, somewhere in the middle, or perhaps unlikely but even the bottom? Thanks - knowing the general direction should hopefully aid my wire 'fishing expedition'. Tom
  22. Hey guys, I've done my bit and have scoured the forums for info on this, but wasn't able to find anything aside from the normal 'check fuses, check grounds,etc.' so I figured I'd post up and see if anyone has had this issue before and may have a solution for me. The car has been running with no worries (electrically) for quite some time now. About a week ago, I noticed that the speed of my indicators (time between blinks) was slowing down. It slows down to about once every 2 seconds, and when I apply the brakes, it stops completely. The thing is though, that when I just start the car in the AM, and it's cold, the entire system works just fine. It's once the car has warmed up that the issue starts. It's also not like it only starts once the car is hot, it happens within the first 10 minutes of me starting up. I've tried to heel/toe the accelerator while standing at a light, to get some voltage running through the system and see if it gets the indicators going again, and it helps a tiny bit, but not much. While driving normally, the indicators seem to be working fine (maybe a little slower than usual) but my biggest issue is when standing at an intersection, wanting to turn, the indicators don't work while I'm on the brakes. This is quite a big safety concern for me, so the sooner I can get this sorted, the happier I'll be. Any advice here? Thanks in advance!! Oliver
  23. I seem to be stumped on this issue with my "second series" 69 2002: When taking apart the wiper transmission linkage, there did not appear to be any rubber washers or grommits in the cowl where the pivots bolt thru the body. Left side Right side I used a mix of old and new components when refurbishing the wipers but cannot figure out how to seal the pivots to the body (using the factory BMW method). The parts graphic for the early wiper mechanism does not call out for the rubber "damper ring" # 61611353754 which is 18mm I.D. x 28mm O.D. x 6mm thick. I ordered (2) of them thinking they would fit in the cowl openings for the pivots. The openings in my cowl are only 16.5mm I.D. so the new rubber pieces are too large (they won't fit). I.D. of the new rubber piece groove is about 26mm The BMW Graphic 61/19 for the early wiper mechanism does NOT show this rubber grommit. It is in the later 61/20 graphic. I measured the wiper pivots and they are 16mm O.D. Did BMW use some sort of sealing compound on the washers to the body? For comparison purposes, here is a picture of the pivot in my 73tii (that has a larger opening and uses the rubber grommits (damper rings). AND - has anyone ever seen a pivot that uses a thru-bolt to secure the wiper arm?
  24. Just a quick question for people with experience running the bosch red ignition coil and points. Is it typical to burn through a set of points once per month (sometimes less)? I keep an extra set of ignition parts in my car because of it, and, thankfully, a set of points are so cheap. But is this typical or is this a sign of a bigger problem?
  25. Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for a 12-fuse, 1972 2002, VIN 2581612? Thanks! Fran Ferrance [email protected]
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