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Found 27 results

  1. I'm clearing a few things out see below. All prices plus shipping. Sunroof parts - $70 Incomplete - Missing the long pieces, but if you're missing something - or one of these is nicer than what you have, make an offer or get spares. Sunroof cable sliders - $50 Great condition. Originally had these listed for 70, time for them to go. Pics in post below. Roundie Tails - $35 Chrome is pitted, and one of the lenses is melted and detached. The plastic will shine up when polished, the metal rings will need a refinish, or sand them down and black them out. B-Pillar trim - $50 Shines up nice, a few tiny scratches/nicks. Looks great from 3-4 ft. Early-ish Seat Rails - $200 Not the front lever ones. Some rust, but not too nasty, will clean up easily with evaporust or a blast. These are the rails that have the bent down tab in the front. Complete with bolts etc. These need some lube but work well. Black Vinyl Seats - $150 I had these listed for parts, but I decided to clean them up today and they're not terrible. A new driver's seat bottom and these may be good to go. All the functions - function: recline, push forward, headrests click up and down. Could use a spray of lube to smooth it all out, but it all works. Red Tip Antenna - $75 Pretty good condition, some pitting but shines up well enough to look good from 5ft. Doesn't retract. Will get pics up in a bit.
  2. After I replaced my guibo and CSB recently, I've noticed a high pitched squeak coming from the driveline area, pretty much under the shifter. Sounds like crickets, especially at idle. Researching the issue more, I'm thinking that I may have forgotten to pack grease into the front of the driveshaft. Two questions: 1) Before I get my hands dirty and remove the guibo, is it likely that a lack of grease has ruined any of these parts? Or will a fresh greasing make the noise go away? 2) I don't see any real specs on how much grease to use, so I'll probably just cram as much in as I can. Is this correct?
  3. Looking for a driveshaft for my stock 1973 '02. Needs to have good U-joints. Shipping to 30315. Thanks, Garrett
  4. Hello everyone, My father has been in possession of a beautiful green 2002 touring for more than 35 years, unfortunately it has been sitting in a barn for the last 15 years. I'm now trying to get her running again, and surprisingly, there haven't been many issues during the last 1000+km (apart from a couple dozen hoses and tubes of course ;) ). Overmorrow I gotta drive to a specialized mechanic who owns some 2002's, and today I figured I'd do a quick checkup before the long drive. I was shocked to see the drive shaft center bearing was totally toast, the rubber is completely gone and the shaft is sitting on the metal. The part will arrive tomorrow so I figured I could start disassembling the drive shaft. The exhaust seemed to be in the way but that sucker is rusted shut, after (literally) hours of hammering and loads of wd40, I gave up. Tomorrow I might buy a propane torch, but, here comes the question: Is it even necessary to remove the exhaust in order to remove the drive shaft? The exhaust came loose fine near the front (under the gear shift), so I have some play. Thank you so much in advance and excuse me for the long introduction ;) Best regards, Inse
  5. This is a ’83 320i I am selling as a whole or parts. You will probably do better as a whole. It has a 5 Speed transmission and a pretty solid body. It was being prepped for racing so it has a fuel cell instead of a stock tank. Someone has removed the stock fuel injection setup for a Weber carb (IDK why). Oh by the way, the car runs fine. I am starting out with selling the obvious. 5 Speed Transmission and Drive shaft - $1200 obo. Serious buyers just make me an offer…you can just take the whole car. I live in the Atlanta area…
  6. This is a ’83 320i I am selling as a whole or parts. You will probably do better as a whole. It has a 5 Speed transmission and a pretty solid body. It was being prepped for racing so it has a fuel cell instead of a stock tank. Someone has removed the stock fuel injection setup for a Weber carb (IDK why). Oh by the way, the car runs fine. I am starting out with selling the obvious. 5 Speed Transmission and Drive shaft - $1200 obo. Serious buyers just make me an offer…you can just take the whole car. I live in the Atlanta area…
  7. I just searched and read lots of info about stock 4-speed drive shafts, but had a couple of questions: 1) Ireland still seems to be a good source, promoting quality staked and balanced units - $500 + core + shipping 2) Rock auto has a Dorman reman, with "C-clip" u-joints for $340, free shipping and no core. Not sure how they turn a staked unit into a C-clip unit, but I did read something in a post about boring out the collar and having it too thin after those operations.... 3) Driveline of Portland, OR does not have much listed on web site, but most posts say they still rebuild/sell 2002 driveshafts done the proper way. So - anyone have recent experience with any of the three above? Lots of posts that are 4-5 years old, just wanted some recent feedback. I also have a "Billy Bob" guy out here in the woods of NC that is used by many of the local vintage shops, including a reputable vintage BMW place here near Raleigh. I just worry about the staking, two-piece balancing, etc... would like to use my original parts, but not sure I want to roll the dice for this piece of the rebuild. Thanks - Randy
  8. I'd like a driveshaft that is already shortened for the conversion. Tim
  9. Just got my 5 speed bolted up and was wondering: Is there any reason NOT to run it with out a driveshaft to make sure everything is working (clutch/speedo/etc)? Quick shifts probably wouldn't work so well, since there is no 'momentum' from the missing driveshaft/rear drive/tires/etc Thoughts?
  10. I have a 1980 e21 that I've swapped a m20b25 into. I have everything running solid and almost ready to go. I'm just looking for a Manual 3 flange driveshaft so I can get her on the ground and finish up.
  11. -!!! '02 Driveshaft In Excellent Refurbishing to New Condition - Offered As a Service !!! Hello '02 Everyone, Here is an Nice Straight, "FULLY-REFURBISHED" '02 Part From Inside Current '02 Parts Inventory of #2,300+ Parts. To Date I Have Shipped Over #1,005 Orders in Over 21 Countries With #300+ 2002 Friends : ) * Same-Day Shipping = Your Order * Important 2002 Drive Train Component That Often Times Needs Attention, Repair OR Replacement -- The Driveshaft. ** Here Is A Completely Refurbished '02 Driveshaft In Excellent Refurbished Condition @ A Great Price!! ** Every Item In Inventory Is Priced Based Upon Perfection. This Driveshaft is Price Accordingly : ) PRICE STARTING AT @ $95 !!! (without repainting) !! 4-Bolt Driveshaft -- Available Online Sources For $650 !! Ready To Be Used "As-Is" w/ 4-Speed OR Perfect Blank For 5-Speed Shortening !!! DRIVESHAFT RESTORATION INCLUDES AN ACID-WASH BATH FOR 2-WEEKS TO COMPLETELY REMOVE OLD PAINT & RUST !!! !! 2ND-STEP INCLUDES REMOVING THE RUBBER FLEX CENTER & OUTER CASE OF DRIVESHAFT CENTER SUPPORT BEARING !! !! 3RD-STEP INCLUDES REMOVING ANY OTHER IMPERFECTIONS / BLEMISHES OF HAND SANDING WITH 2 GRADES #180/220 !! !! 4TH-STEP INCLUDES ETCHING METAL + APPLYING THREE SEPARATE COATS OF VHT HIGH-TEMP SEMI-GLOSS BLACK PAINT !! !! THE 9.0 CONDITION REFURBISHED DRIVESHAFT WITH 3-COATS OF PAINT = ONLY $185 WHICH IS A KILLER!!! PRICE : ) !! AWESOME VALUE COMPARED ELSEWHERE = "TAKE-UP-TO" -85% OFF VERSUS "NEW" SAVING $465 OVER ONLINE SOURCES !! ~~ THE RESULTS OF THIS FULL COSMETIC RESTORATION IS A BEAUTIFUL -9.0-OUT-OF-10" QUALITY 4-SPEED DRIVESHAFT ~~ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SHIPPED IN A HOME DEPOT DRAINAGE TUBE FOR $12 PLUS PRIORITY MAIL POSTAGE = $38.50 TO 2/3'rds OF USA FROM DENVER Currently Low On M10 Motors, Headlights & Tail Lights -- Have Several E-12 Heads and one 121 Head Casting (No Valves, OR CAM), Intake Manifold, Six Pedal Boxes, Three Steering Boxes, Seven Consoles, Eleven Sets of USA Turn Signals, Six Valve Covers, Eight Radiator Fans, Dozens of Vent Knobs, Vent Window Actuators, Chrome Door Finishers, Quarter Chrome Finishers, Chrome Vent Window Frames, Sport Wheels, Steering Wheels, 4-Speed Trannies, Drive Shafts, CV Half Shafts, Hubs, Subframes, Window Glass, Loads Of Belt Trim, Lower Body Trim, Plenty Of Sheet Metal = Doors, Hoods, Deck Lids, Quarter Panels, Tail Clips, Nose Clips, Window Regulators Door Hardware, Seat Belts, Grills, Lights, Brackets, Linkage, Switches, Relays, Trim, Gaskets, and Much, Much, More. Unfortunately, NO DOOR GASKETS, SQUARE TAIL LIGHTS, NON-CRACKED DASHBOARDS At This Time. BELOW IS AN ACCURATE LIST OF CURRENT INVENTORY. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CALL OR TEXT ME FOR MORE SPECIFIC INFORMATION: ALSO: If There Is Something Not On The List, OR If You Have Any Questions: Please Call: 303 - 999 - 1190 1.) ALL '02 ITEMS ARE ON A 1ST-COME-1ST-SERVE" BASIS. 2.) REQUESTS ARE HONORED IN THE ORDER THAT THEY ARE RECEIVED. 3.) PAYMENT IS DUE WITH PACKAGING, NOT BEFORE. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * PAYMENT IS VIA: Google Wallet for FREE OR SquareUp Credit Card Invoice for + 2.75% More You are Welcome to Contact me directly, Call OR Text: 303 - 999 - 1190 Hood Center Trim Piece Shipping Cost Will includes a $12 Tube from Home Depot plus $15.45 for USPS Priority Mail Shipping to 2-3rd's of Country. East Coast will be approximately $5 more. Parcel Select Service will be a few Dollars less. In General Shipping is most commonly via USPS with the Parcel Select service which is Distance sensitive. Here, the weight of the package determines the Shipping cost. OR Priority Mail which is Flat-rate in standard boxes: "If It Fits – It Ships" Large Packages between 60 lbs. and 100 lbs. may ship FedEx Ground. Larger shipments heavier than 100 lbs. are sent via Common Carrier with Pilot Freight who has 75 warehouses in major cities around the country. Every Single Package is Shipped with Insurance. I will ship to anywhere in the World : ) As always, thanks for Looking! Bryce Feel Free to Call OR Text Bryce: 303 -- 999 -- 1190 Always the Fastest Method!
  12. No affiliation, just came across this on Facebook, and I thought it might be helpful for the guys who are in the middle of a swap. Since a lot of swaps require a shortened driveshaft with custom center support bearing mounts, as well as transmission mounts, we are responsible for making sure the driveshaft spins true. Otherwise, premature failure of guibo, CSB or u-joints can occur, as well as excessive noise and vibration while driving. This tool might help you out with making sure everything is aligned properly, or maybe it won't. Won't know until someone tries it out. Check out this youtube video for info and demonstration. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaVj6PtRewE#t=82
  13. So. Installed my Redline weber 32/36 air cleaner took my car for a drive and it started making a REALLY nasty sound. Coming from just behind the E-Brake lever for sure. Somewhere in the transmission tunnel. Under hard acceleration it makes a grinding sound. Going slow and light acceleration, nothing bad. But when you drop the hammer it sounds like there is a small rodent trying to eat though my transmission tunnel. My question is could it be the guibo? I looked at symptoms for guibo failure and the threads were saying it mainly is vibrations when one fails. Its pouring down rain where I live so I cant really go under the car and look quite yet. I will have to look tomorrow.... Oh and get this. Just insured the car yesterday... Always something lol. -Nesset
  14. Started a new thread since I couldn't figure how to attach images after my first post. So I a vibration between 20-25 mph and narrowed the vibration to around the center bearing bracket. I replaced the main bearing and all bolts are in with no cracks anywhere. Any ideas? I attached a video and loosened the bolts just a bit so you can get a idea of how much it will shake at the right rpm 02.MOV
  15. I am in the process of installing a rebuilt driveshaft on my 73 2002. Replacing the leaky selector shaft seal on the 4 speed seemed like an easy thing to do since everything is apart already. Unfortunately when I try to drive a new seal on top of the old one it won't budge. Is this what happens when there are already three seals installed? Or is it a case of needing a larger hammer? Or a different approach. I have already tried using a short length of half inch pvc pipe and a small ball peen hammer to tap it in. When that didn't work I tried using half-inch steel pipe with my dead blow hammer. No luck. Paul in West LA
  17. I have the parts from an auto to 5 speed swap. The transmission and driveshaft are the 3 bolt variety. I prefer local, but will consider shipping at the buyers expense. The transmission was in great working condition, never had any shifting issues, and the fluid inside it didn't smell burnt. The driveshaft could use some love. There are a few u-joints that could be rebuilt, but they aren't terrible. I no issues with it, but it might be wise to have it rebuilt in the long run. The torque converter is in great shape. I also have the automatic shift lever and the surround for that. Everything is in good condition EXCEPT I am missing the small plastic piece that indicates if you are in park, reverse, neutral, drive. The brush like material that is on the sides of the shifter surround isn't perfect by any means either. I will post pictures when I get the time.
  18. Hey Folks, I had an incident happen this weekend that leaves me in need of either a long neck differential and rear drive shaft section, or just the 3 ear diff input flange and rear drive shaft section (my diff still functions fine). I might also be interested in a later style diff and rear sub-frame instead. I might even be interested in a universal joint input flange. Also wondering who the NK people are in the Chicago area? Thanks for any help on this! Doug-
  19. I made this with 7 1/2' of duck tape and a $3.59 laser pointer from Walmart for my 5-speed conversion. It worked well so I thought I'd share: This dimension is not critical. In fact, it seems that it's better if there is a bit of wobble for the prop-shaft. I used this to get everything centered up and then intentionally off-set the transmission a bit. I had a new CSB ordered when I shortened my old shaft. Theoretically one should have a free one lying around during this operation. More details on alignment in Rob's post here. By rolling the tape around the laser pointer you ensure it's "centered". This is kind of like additive lathing.
  20. Hi to all Let me start by saying a big thank you to all the people who contribute to this forum. It is a really valuable source of info and a big help ! I have recently started my own little project that will hopefully see an M42 engine in a 1972 1602 I just had the Car back from sandblasting ( I will post photos soon ) and I am starting on rust repair. Meanwhile I am trying to make up time by getting the M42 test fitted to my parts car And that brings a few questions J First of all I am not really sure what kind of drive shaft my parts car has on. It had a 5 speed gear box and the same paten that fits the M42 gearbox. I am guessing it is from an E21 but I m not sure... I am posting a photo for sure someone will know... Anyway since it conects to the M42 gerbox nicely I am thinking to leave it on but I am not sure if it brings the engine too far to the front . I am posting a photo and hopefully people who have done the M42 swap already can offer some guidance. I dont have engine mounts yet and I will be making my own since I am a bit too far away to be able and buy some ready made so at the moment I have no restrictions regarding engine mounts. Also I am trying to lift the engine up as much as possible but the oil pan is still sitting very low. How low of a stance can you get away with after the M42 swap?? Any photos would be really appreciated Thanks!
  21. I pulled my driveshaft/propshaft and removed the guibo this weekend and then sat down with the manuals, Realoem and the Macartney book. The doc does not match the parts I ended up with I have a set of pictures below showing my engine gearbox output flange, the end of the driveshaft and the indicated fitting sequence of the centering components. 1)First, when I pulled the driveshaft and the guibo, NONE of the 6 centering components was present.... either in the guibo center or on the shaft end. 2) From the Macartney diagram, those six components seem to be inserted inside the guibo with a lock ring (the Haynes manual picture shows this), but the guibo that came off just has a rubber center and NOTHING that looks like you could insert these parts and fasten them. 3) Finally, I thought *perhaps* those six parts could be inside the end of my drive shaft, because that metal cap on the end of my shaft could have been the "sealing cap" that is indicated in the manuals. But when I shine a light into the end of the shaft and poke around, it is just rough cast metal in the hole.. no bushes and spring. And that metal end cap on my shaft is not round and looks like the output shaft has wandered about in the hole and worn it So, can someone educate me how a 1975 is supposed to be set up? Are there different guibos and I have an improper one? Did the PO just neglect to add all of these centering components? Thanks - Randy
  22. I have almost complete collection of parts for a 5 spd swap. I sold my car and don't need these anymore. All parts are new or in good used condition: Getrag 245 from 1980 320is, all seals replaced, nice and clean-$500 usd SOLD All new parts in box: 228mm clutch, $250usd 228mm throwout bearing for 5spd-SOLD IE shortened driveshaft, 3 bolt flange-SOLD Guibo 6 bolts with new bolts- SOLD Febi Clutch slave 5spd - $30 SOLD Pressure plate bolts new- $10 IE shift plate 5spd - SOLD Output shaft socket thin wall 30mm- SOLD Prefer a local pick up for large items like the tranny, but could ship everything. I am located in Vancouver, BC, next to US border and come to Bellingham, WA occasionally. Some things I could ship from there to save you money. Buyer is responsible for shipping.
  23. Good morning everyone, I'm nearly complete with my M20 swap and the last and final bit has been getting the drive shaft in place. I had my original non-sliding 2002 driveshaft shorted (to take advantage of the existing center bearing mounting point) to accommodate the 3-piece 5 speed getrag I have in the car. Measured 3 times, cut once. I'm coming up about a 1/4" too long on the shaft. Perhaps I should have measured twice...anyway... Aside from shortening the shaft another 1/4" or less - is there any other adjustment that can be made to the driveline such as positioning the differential backward? I could probably hammer the damn thing into place but I'm concered with the shaft being stressed. Thanks C
  24. Morning FAQ'rs, Need advice on changing out the carrier bearing (center bearing) drove my car and the loud thudding I heard was the driveshaft hitting the bottom of the pan. My carrier bearing is toast. I have a 68' long diff, has anyone changed this out themselves ? was looking over the previous threads, looks like they have to be pressed in, though im not 100% sure as opinions differ. I want to tackle this myself but I don't have a press, my buddy has a press but not sure if it'll work. Plus, I was wondering if no press is required, which end do I yank to replace the carrier bearing ? ( tranny side, diff side) write up links, advice, tip, warnings, etc is great appreciated.
  25. Hi, Just got my driveshaft back from a friend that helped out with centre support bearing replacement. While it was away, I was looking at the parts diagrams and noticed all the parts at the front end of the driveshaft. I could not remember them when I had taken the shaft out last Oct.( could have been there, could have been missing, I just never knew to look) Parts 1to9. http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2583&mospid=47141&btnr=26_0136&hg=26&fg=10 thankfully they were there. Now the questions: 1). What do these parts do? 2) Is there any maintenance required for these parts? Thanks in advance Allan
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