Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'door cards'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Technical Articles
    • Body and Interior
    • Brakes
    • Engine and Drivetrain
    • Electrical and Ignition
    • History and Reference
    • Racing and Safety
    • Suspension and Steering
  • News
    • Events
    • Racing
  • FAQ Use


  • BMW 2002 and other 2 door Sedans
  • BMW Nueu Klasse Sedans and Coupés
  • BMW 700


  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Colors


  • Standard and Optional
  • Aftermarket


  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Models


  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Registry


  • Discussions
    • BMW 2002 and other '02
    • BMW 2002ti and BMW 1600ti Owners Group
    • BMW 2002 Turbo Discussion
    • BMW Neue Klasse Discussion
    • BMW 1600GT Discussion
    • BMW 700 Discussion
    • BMW 2002 and Neue Klasse Events
    • Project Blogs
    • Project Blogs - Archive
    • FAQ Articles Construction Zone
  • Technical Resources
    • Technical Articles
    • Colors Database
    • Wheels Database
  • Classifieds
    • Seller/Buyer Feedback
    • Cars for Sale/Wanted
    • Parts For Sale
    • Parts Wanted
    • eBay
  • Off Topic
    • Site Problems, Suggestions, and Questions
    • Off-Topic
    • Test Forum
  • BayArea02's Discussion
  • Texas's Discussion
  • Australia Owners Club's Discussion
  • Chicago '02 Group's Discussion
  • Florida's Discussion
  • Georgia's Discussion
  • Mid-Atlantic's Discussion
  • Midwest's Discussion
  • New York Owners Group's Discussion
  • Nor'East 02ers's Discussion
  • Pacific Northwest's Discussion
  • Rivertown Gear Busters's Discussion
  • Rocky Mountain's Discussion
  • Sacramento's Discussion
  • SoCal 02's's Discussion
  • Canada's Discussion
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Topics


There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


  • Drives
  • Racing
  • Shows and Gatherings
  • Technical Videos
  • Other
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Videos


  • Events
  • Races
  • BayArea02's Events
  • Texas's Events
  • Australia Owners Club's Events
  • Chicago '02 Group's Events
  • Florida's Events
  • Georgia's Events
  • Mid-Atlantic's Events
  • Midwest's Events
  • New York Owners Group's Events
  • Nor'East 02ers's Events
  • Pacific Northwest's Events
  • Rivertown Gear Busters's Events
  • Rocky Mountain's Rocky Events
  • Sacramento's Events
  • SoCal 02's's Events
  • Canada's Events
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Events

Product Groups

  • Parts
    • Suspension
    • Engine and Drivetrain
  • Advertising
  • FAQ Accessories
  • Memberships

Marker Groups

  • Members
  • BMW Repair Shops
  • Race Tracks


  • BMW '02s
  • BMW '02 Cabrio and Targa
  • BMW '02 Touring
  • BMW 2002 Turbo
  • BMW Neue Klasse
  • BMW 700
  • Other BMWs
  • Non BMWs

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 16 results

  1. Saddle/Tobacco (I can never tell which is which!) Matching Front and Rear seats with Front and Rear Door Cards- Selling complete only - $1250 - Please call/text 858-208-8449 email colletti.charles@yahoo.com I purchased these a few years ago and have had stored inside my garage with the intent of installing in my 1969 2002. That car is a little ways off from completion and I need to make room in my garage. I can't imagine shipping all of this unless it went via Greyhound; but I guess it all could go on a pallet. I am hoping for someone to pick up as if I have to ship I may need to add a PITA Fee. Here is what Steve said about them when I purchased. The "eared" headrests -- fatter at the outer ends than in the middle -- came out during the 1973 model year. They are likely combined with the later, 12mm., headrest supports -- earlier headrest supports were 10mm. The vinyl on the rear seat, which appears to be original, is consistent with 1973 seats (as well as 1972 and, perhaps, some 1971 seats). Likewise, the black splatter-painted recliners are also consistent with 1973 seats (as well as 1972 non-tii seats and, perhaps, some 1971 seats). I'd assume, therefore, that the seats are all part of a single original set and, thus, date to the 1973 model year. The front seats, although they have been recovered and re-stuffed, might retain date-stamped manufacturers tags inside.
  2. Basically, you have three options for this project in terms of budget: - $$$: If you're baller, you can just buy brand new door panels straight from Aardvark Racing, and just pop the old ones off and the new ones on: http://www.2002parts.com/bmw/door-panels.html - $$: This is the route I went, using the much more affordable door panel rebuild kit from Aardvark, cleaning up and reusing my old vinyl: http://www.2002parts.com/bmw/door-panel-kit.html - $: For the true DIYer, you could cut your own new plywood panels using the old fiberboard cards as templates. The first step of course is to remove the door panels. Since 75% of all of my clips were broken, this was easy for me. If that's not the case for you, you'll need something nice and flat and wide to help pop the clips out of the door. Once it's free, the whole thing lifts straight up (though it's a bit of a tight fit, so may take some coercion) at the top by the window and comes out. (Yuck! If yours also looks like this, then you should definitely be doing this job too!) Once it's out, you can begin taking out all of the staples that hold the vinyl to the old card and then peel the covering off of the card. It's glued down in strips with some sort of thin fibrous fill in between and can get a bit messy, but my came apart without much fuss: (old card) (old covering) From here you'll need to finish removing any of the fill material that's still left on the back side of the vinyl, and also remove the trim hardware from the old card. There should be 4-5 clips that hold on the strip of window felt and the chrome trim along the top, and the black steel top molding has bent tabs that go through the door card to hold it in place. I just kind of ripped it out of the old card first and then unbent the tabs, but this might not be so wise if you need the old card more or less in tact to use as a pattern if your cutting your own new boards. Make sure not to loose any of the upper trim clips! Now time to clean up that old grungy vinyl! I picked up this leather cleaning kit from Advance Auto and it sure seemed to work well for me: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/turtlewax-deep-cleaning-leather-kit-t480kt/10611292-P?searchTerm=leather+cleaner Now for reassembly, I started with installing the black upper molding to the new door panel. Being thicker the securing tabs didn't really go all the way 'through' the wood, but once inserted I managed to spread them enough with some nose pliers so that they gripped well enough to hold everything together: Then, I used some thin quilting fleece and glued it to the back of the vinyl with 3M spray adhesive to replace the now-shredded original fill material. This gives just a little bit of loft and softness to the vinyl, which I think is worth having, but isn't strictly necessary: Finally, it's time to install the vinyl cover onto the new door card. I started with gluing the top of the vinyl in place over the steel molding to keep everything in place. Then, I put the chrome trim pieces back on reusing the old clips, and then snapped the window felt back into the clips also: Once everything is in place up top, just start gluing the vinyl/felt to the front of the panel. I chose to glue the whole thing, assuming that if and when I ever need to do this job again, the vinyl won't have enough life left in it to be reused any more and I'll just need to pop for new ones. Again, I like the same 3M spray adhesive that I used for carpet and headliner gluing: Now is a good time to cut holes through the felt so that the door hardware (handle, window winder, vent knob, etc.) can all poke through properly, and then the finishing touch is to wrap all of the sides of the vinyl around and glue them down to the back of the panel. I just stuck with the glue again here and didn't bother with staples, but you could re-staple the sides too if preferred: It is WELL worth the extra $13 to get the new clips from Aardvark instead of trying to salvage the old ones, especially because you can leave the old clips in the old card to help you figure out which locations they all go into (there are more holes in the panels than there are clips). They just twist in by hand and then you can pop the finished door panel back on the door! I found it easiest to do with the window down; get the top pressed down into the top of the door first until all of the clips line up with the holes. Remember to fish the door lock pin up through the hole in the top of the panel when installing, which unfortunately is probably the trickiest part of the whole job, but once you have it through the grommet and the top seated, you can go around the perimeter and pop all of the clips home into the door. And that's it! Re-install all of the door handle hardware, grab a good bier, and be proud of your excellent handiwork!
  3. Jumping ahead. I have seen door card kits on Ebay but everything is on a budget. Didn't seem that hard so I decided to make my out of some good quality wood. Attached the old card to the wood and traced the pattern. Any place where the old cardboard was broken, I used the other card to make sure the pattern was correct. Cut and drilled the pattern. Here is the result. On to paint and body work. Disassembled the hood. paint stripping more and more and more. What a mess?! Spayed the hood with prep and etch zinc phosphoric acid to treat any rust. This or the paint stripper would come back to haunt me later. Pretty sure it was the stripper. Right? I primed the hood trunk and fenders with Eastwood grey epoxy primer. Stuff is awesome and not too pricey. This was done to keep the parts from flash rusting, and not for final prep for paint. And yes, my neighbor's wall is about to collapse. I also stripped the door and the trunk lid and finally decided that this was just not time or cost effective. Paint strippers leave way to much residue, the likelihood of having remover residue in nooks and crannies was too high and could jeopardize future paint work. So, I found a guy who does dustless water blasting and talked him down to $400 for the whole car and doors. I was very concerned with warping panels, but he showed me some of his prior work and it was impressive. After - It revealed that the car was in very good condition, bu the front driver corner had had prior body work. I would body work this with a hammer and dolly, weld up the pull holes and fix it right. Before and after. You can see the way I eliminated some of the cowl and replaced the sheet metal above the heater core with a formed piece of square tubing - very rigid and stiffens up the chassis considerably. Next shots are of the primed car with filler and block work. Below is an interior shot. The bay and interior would be coated with 2K Ceramic chassis black. I undercoated the car with Magnet paints undercoat / rust encapsulator and top coated that with more chassis black. The frame rails, and any nooks and crannies with Eastwood's internal frame coating and rust encapsulator, which is awesome stuff, not too pricey. I used it on the subframe body mounts, frame rails, rockers, B pillars, and shock towers, and the bottom interior of each door. The painter's body man, who who he eventually fired undid a bunch of my body work, which burns me up, but... Below the car is on a dolly I built to move the car around. Brand new wheels and they are always going flat. and the rear. you can see the rear shock tower truss I built to stiffen everything up and hold the battery. The plate with holes that attaches it to the trunk floor and rear cross member, is also what the differential carrier attaches to. And the money shot! Remember I said the paint stripper would come back to bite me. The reason the hood is not on the car is because some residue would react to the paint, clear or something, and cause solvent pops / fish eyes in the hood. Anyway, I am getting that back today and everything should be kosher. Right now I have been working to get everything back on the car. I'll post more pics of the clutch install, engine install, install of the e24 rear seats, 3 point front seat belts, and the fitting of bright work. If anyone knows how to make the vent window close properly, please let me know? I have rebuilt the frame and re-riveted the frame and vent window hinge and even tried a different hing and window with no luck. The issue is that the top of the vent window closes on top of the weather seal instead of in the recessed part. And, the write up in this forum do not accurately tell how to adjust the vent window itself. Ok, more to come.
  4. Winter is coming. (Day ~69er-76) Braking my heart It seems that I have 2 leaking fittings on the front calipers, I think the bleeders aren’t seating properly. I managed to stop the leaks but it’s not a permanent fix. I believe I have Tii brakes which were spaced for vented rotors. I might need to get some professional help with those but I will leave that to next year because winter is coming. I’ll try buying some new quality bleeder fittings first. Timing‘n’Tuning I’ve been messing around with my timing light and playing with the adjustment to the Webers. I’ve been getting a lot of helpful advice from the good ole boys on BMW2002FAQ. It’s difficult for me, the timing numbers I’ve found don’t seem to work well with the motor. I’ve changed the distributor cap and rotor, plus ordered some new spark plug wires. My DCOEs are not a matched set (came with car), so things are extra difficult and I’m weighing-out some options. Every time I take a step forward something pushes me at minimum 1 step back, it’s very frustrating. Interior Pretty Stuff The Center Console from Hell. The vinyl on the sides of the center console was thin and also wrinkly, I decided I was going to recover it with some fresh vinyl. I had just enough vinyl left over to recover both sides of the center console. Setback 1 Unfortunately I ended up having to recover the both sides a second time because as it turned out I didn’t pull the fabric far enough on the backside where the center console face sits (containing radio, gauges, etc), thus staples and slits in the vinyl would be visible in the front. I discovered this during the test fit, so I went to purchase some more vinyl, un-stapled it all and redid it. Vinyl (Before): New Vinyl (After): I used some thin MDF, and reinforced it with a 2nd layer in a few areas. The reason I went with thin MDF was because I needed a bend and MDF is pretty easy to work with. For those who want to attempt something similar, here’s a collage of photos, I also wrote out some of the steps I did below the image. - Photo 1: I traced out the shape of the center console on the MDF, including the cut-outs for the 3 VDO gauges and the Stereo. - Photo 2: I cut those out with the jigsaw. - I then plotted the toggle switches and hazard switch. o For the toggle switches, I found them to be too pronounced, they would stick out more than I liked (from console face). So, instead of cutting a small hole to secure the switch (with the threaded plastic nut), I cut the silhouette of the full switch. The plan was to glue a 2nd piece of MDF behind the face where the switched would be secured with the plastic nut. This would recess the switches a little. - Photo 3: I cut 3 pieces of MDF to the shape of the bend I needed. o I used a small amount of hot water on a rag to lightly moisten the console MDF where the bend was needed. o I bent the console MDF a little by hand, then clamped the it to 3 pieces I cut with some glue to secure the shape. - Photo 4: I added to pieces to extend the sides of the console, made a tray for the stereo to rest and added the toggle switch backing piece. - Photo 5: I applied and sanded a light coat of body filler to fix any imperfections and provide a smooth surface. - Photo 6: I applied 3 light coats of satin black spray paint. - Photo 7: I applied 3 coats of matte clear coat Setback 2 - Photo 8: The console was finished and ready for another test fit but I managed to knock it off my workbench. Most of the damage was at the top left. o I did not want to start from scratch, so I repaired the gauge using some MDF glue and then more body filler. Setback 3 - Photo 9: I applied 2 coats of satin black, there wasn’t much paint left in the can. Unfortunately the nozzle sprayed out some globs of paint and I also ended up with a nice drip mark. o I sanded the drip mark and other imperfections with a fine grit paper. Setback 4 - Photo 10: I applied 3 light coats of matte clear coat and for some reason there was a chemical reaction which made cracks throughout. - Photo 11: Sanded the paint cracks away, applied 3 more light coats of clear coat and wet sanded the few imperfections. - Photo 12: Test fitted the everything in the completed center console. Not in collage: Setback 5 o The wires for the switches were too short to be able to wire up it up before positioning it, needed a couple of inches of play, went out to buy a wiring harness for the switch and decided to do the same for the gauges. o Used double sided tape under the stereo and installed an L-bracket behind the stereo to hold it in place. o Pre-drilled 6 holes (3 per side) to hold the center face in place through the vinyl sides. o Installed a aluminium bracket across the top of the console which with a hole to secure the center console to the dash (using an existing u-clip). Setback 6 o Installed an L-bracket in front of shiter to secure console to the tunnel with a self tapping screw. The self tapping screw pulled a tread from the new carpet and there is now a thin line missing loops in the carpet (right in front of shifter). - I think I will make some kind of vinyl cover for this area and try to make it look like it should be there. Final product Parcel Shelf I made a new parcel shelf cover out of some ¼ MDF with black vinyl. I used the old piece as a template, then cut out place for the speakers. I cut the full outline of the speakers, so that the speaker cover would be recessed and not sitting on top of the parcel shelf, thus less pronounced. Refreshing the Door Card backings The old door cards weren’t in the best condition, especially the driver side so I decided to make some new door cards out of ¼ plywood. Original Driver side old door card. I removed the door card cover carefully and used it as a template, I stenciled all the holes/shapes on the new plywood. I noticed some of the holes aren’t used/necessary, so I didn’t plan on cutting those out. Using a jig saw and hole saw, I cut out the shape and pieces. The plywood is slightly thicker than the stock cardboard so the door card clips do not fit well. I found a trick, by inserting a screwdriver in the hole at an angle, I apply pressure to the back and front (of the plywood) simultaneously and twist the screwdriver 360’. This removes the top veneer of the birch plywood. It’s not pretty but it’s effective. I test fitted the door card to the door, everything lined up well. I reattached the top portion of the door card skin by bending the metal tabs back out. I used a flat head screw driver with a hammer. I sprayed some 3m Super 77 spray on the plywood and door card skin for good measure, then I stapled the skin to the back of the door card. Door Card Install I had previously adjusted both the driver and passenger windows it was annoying and time consuming. Now before installing the door cards, I needed to make sure I had the windows adjustment as best as possible, I spent about another 30 mins on the passenger window over the long weekend (Canadian thanksgiving). Once I finished, I sprayed some lithium grease all over to lubricate the mechanism and protect against rust on the inner door. Now I could install the vapour barrier and door card. We had some left over polyethylene vapour barrier from construction so that was what I planned on using. Steps. - Cut vapour barrier to size/shape, test fit it. Temporarily fix it in place at the top, then flip the bottom up to apply an adhesive. Flip it back down apply a little pressure so the adhesive contacts to vapour barrier (note: I also used a few small pieces of tuck tape). - To install the door card in place, I attached a long piece of masking tape to the door-lock pin and fished it through the hole, if you don’t do this, it will be difficult to get the door-lock pin through the opening. Push card down to clip it to the top of the door, I also used a hammer with a piece of 2x4 with some light taps to push the front portion down. - Put the 2 springs over the window winder and vent window knob. Pop the door clips in, some require more pressure than others. - Install the window winder and vent window knob with plastic washer. Install door arm rest and door handle. Final product: Grills Before re-installed the front grills, I covered the 2 hood bracket support ‘bar’s with some black (sticker) vinyl. These are generally visible when the grill is installed, so you’d see a 2 bright red bars behind the grill. I also used Megiuars Ultimate Black on the grills. Here’s a before (top) and after (bottom), not much to see here. 1st Drive around the block. Frustrated with how long everything is taking in terms of the tuning, I messed around with the timing and carburetors some more on Saturday and felt like I got the motor to a point where I felt a (mini) drive was in order, equipped with a couple of screw drivers, wrenches and a fire extinguisher, I took the car around the block a couple of times. Everything went well, and the car felt smoother than before the I started this project, I was expecting a rougher ride due to the urethane bushings and all. Short anticlimactic video from Sunday.
  5. Hello guys/gals my name is Tyler, I have been redoing a lot of my interior lately for my 2002 resto-rodation that we have going on here at CM Performance. I recently completed front door cards for my 2002 - I am looking to see who would be interested in purchasing a set- these are not your typical 2002 door card pattern/material. These will have more of a look like what you find in some older racer cars rather flat- no armrest with pull strap. These panels are made from masonite so they are rather light and have a foam padding between the outer leather/vinyl material for more of a plush feel when touched rather than feeling like you're touching a piece of covered board. The correct door-cards I have seen where your can buy the skins/boards for ~$500.00/ front set. We will offer ours at $175.00 SHIPPED anywhere in the lower 48. These are perfect for anyone wanting to clean up their interior with a simple & clean look for your track car or weekend driver. We will be offering more interior pieces to come including a fully complete rear seat delete and trunk insulation/cleanup kit that will come fully insulated & upholstered for a drop-in installation- stay tuned. Materials- Masonite backing- light/durable Auto upholstery foam padding for insulation and feel Black automotive leatherette/vinyl upholstery for an authentic and luxurious feel. - We will be offering other colors if interest peaks. Options- 1) We can fully assemble your door-panels in house at $20.00 per panel if you would like to send us just your top chrome trim/molding that mounts the panel to the top of the door they will come back to you with a new panel and installation clips installed for easy drop-in installation. All cards come as pictured below unless you want your window crank-door handle-vent window knob holes pre-cut please specify. Price: $215.00 Shipped 2) If you would like to install that molding/trim yourself the panels will come with all holes required pre-drilled with all new clips installed for easy installation. This will require yourself to trim the excess material at the top of the panel in order for it to be secured into the top molding properly. All cards come as pictured below unless you want your window crank-door handle-vent window knob holes pre-cut please specify. Price: $175.00 Shipped I will post installation photos soon this is just to see who all/if any would be interested. For all inquires feel free to simply PM me on here or email myself (Tyler) at bmwtyler@icloud.com Thank you for your time. -Tyler
  6. On all door cards the cardboard backing has done what cardboard backing does. I would recommend the Aardvark wood backing sets. Also, I consider these all driver quality. Local pickup preferred, but if you Really want these I'll figure something out for shipping. Lonesome Blue rear card. passenger side. Has a hole for a seatbelt bolt (likely early car retrofit?) $15 OBO Rear tobacco Cards. Holes drilled for seatbelt. $35 OBO 6: Rear Tobacco Cards, No holes $50 OBO
  7. Location: : Boulder, CO NLA.
  8. ALREADY FOUND A SET OF DOOR CARDS, THANKS Howdy, folks... I'm looking for a good set of black door cards for my '72. Need them with no speaker holes or bad tears, or any such nonsense. Hope someone can help. Many thanks, Ed Z
  9. Looking for a good non cut set of tan door cards. Locally in Vancouver Canada preferred.
  10. Hey guys, its been a little while since I've been around. I've got a bunch of stuff I didn't use on a build that I'm selling . I'm having a hard time determining value , so I'm open to offers . I'm not looking to get rich on this stuff but it's not in my way either. Here is a list of what I've found so far. im very open to someone buying the entire lot for a good deal. Everything with a part number is new in packaging from BMW. Grommet x 4. 64211376130 Trunk trim 51131830810 Fuse box decal 51141831599 Seal door lip x4. 51211847798 Door lock plastic Tesa tape roll x2 9511072 Mirror Seal x2 L&R 51161822062 Alternator bushing 12311268433 Engine bay sticker kit (non tii)aftermarket Hose 11531266469 Hose 11531257371 Hose 11611256468 Hose. 11531266471 Lower door seal x2 51711813507 BumperRubber buffer x2 51119558125 Bumper rubber buffer x2. 51111815484 edge protection x10 51711801810 Door clips x20 51411870718 Fillister head screw x10 61317682091 Fillister head self tap screw x8 07119907774 Recessed oval head screw x18 07119902468 Saucer head screw x2 07119910437 Bushing grommet x5 51447780135 Trunk trim washers x16 07119933017 Trunk trim fastener x15 51135480116 Trim fastener x9 51111815611 Hollow washers x14 51211859979 Washers x18 07119931015 Body nut x18 07129901645 Data plate 51142121107 Weatherstripping clamp x5 51216454231 Sun visor clip 51161870863 Trim cup x4 51315480122 Grill slats x2 61131817840 upper & lower trim clips around 75 in total Deep Left grill Deep Right grill Center kidney E21 steering wheel with horn. Nardi personal steering wheel Bmw horn button for Nardi wheel Nardi Horn button Horn collar Nardi wire for Horn Pedal box rubber inner Pedal box rubber outer Climate control trim upper and lower set up to 73 (1 for 74-76) Used tii cold start wire harness 2002tii badge roundel badge new aftermarket (pelican) 3 door cards black. Single 66-73 1 set 74-76 Door card wood new pair Door pull left and right 2002 black. Only 1 chrome ring Door pull e21 single Bumper guards with buffers x3 (great shape ) 1 bumper guard seal 1 used window crank Leather shift knob Recaro star knobs x2 Recaro star knob cover Recaro lever x3 Recaro lever cover x2 Recaro strap rebuild kit Recaro seat slide incomplete set 3/4 Seat slider set e10 Cocoa mats set of 4. Passenger is faded but set is new and never used Orange owners handbook Autobooks Bmw owner workshop manual (orange) Repair manual volume 2 1966-1976 (blue)
  11. I have a pair of Blue with Black front door cards, condition is quite good EXCEPT for speaker holes cut in to the lower front corners. These came from my 1971 2002 (Chamonix). Chrome strips are in decent condition, vinyl (besides hole) is good, cards are good. Someone looking for a decent pair of original door cards can hopefully use these. Would not be too hard to make a cover for the holes and still look very respectable, or use them for speakers. I will be at Brisbane this coming weekend and can bring them if interested or can ship UPS (48 states). I can be reached at 415.505.3791 or email mark@airwavesf.com
  12. , shock towers $130 frame rails $200, B posts $99 a posts $99,,,,,, complete roof 200,,,,, door cards $50 each frts ,,,,, rears $50 each,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,, rear 73 bumper $325 ( one left),,,,,,,, doors , $125 and 150,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, rubber rear bumper bracketts covers facias $100,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,deck lid no bondo at all$299 with all you see in pics,,,,,,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,zender flares $100 for all, air dam $1125( both need some help but are structurally fine) ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,rear windshield w defroster $75, rear window lower panel with no gutter rust $250( SOLD)<,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, complete roof $250,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, door strikers $50 each alum b post trim to rivet on $50 pair mint ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, brake booster $25,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, stock steering wheel ( 3 triangular ) lONG horn buttons with wires $125 ,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,frt windshield has wiper scratch across the passenger side $100 ( you pick up or pay for crating and or boxing up) ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, fender clips frts or rears $99 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, , ignition $49 with matching door handles $125 WITH keys!!) ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, gauge surround $25 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, < S,,,,, weber DGV CLEAN! carb $90, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, rear side windows ,,,,,, f arm rest mint in all ways 65, 73 frt bumper inquire,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, dome light $40,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Riken 6jx14 vintage wheels one has a small dent and one is missing the cap < fairly rare and a bit hard to find $499 (came off a 71 red 2002), roundie talitght rings very nice , no big pits at all needs chrome $50, nos roundie rear lenses $125 each!! armrest chrome surround$20 $ 25 for the enclosed one perfect mint no need for chrome, IINQUIRE,, DASH TOP EMERGENCY SEAT BELT LIGHT AND HOUSING RARE FOR THIS CAr, $30, , , switches $15 wind wings nice chrome and rubber clean up great $125 pair PEDAL BOX FRAME AND BRACKETT SET UP FOR PEDALS $45, inquire for other prices
  13. can deliver any of the big p[arts to northern cal;if Once a month near Salinas Or los banos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, car went to the recylcer with all the supension on it rolled right in! but have more parts that were cut off ( pics to follow deck lid $299, flares and air dam $200 has a few cracks f( ALL PARTS ARE RUST FREE UNLESS MENTIONED great shape frt bilstein shocks seem fine $75 REAR LONG 73 BUMPERS air dam $150 has a crack< easy to fix windshield $99 has a scratch rear windshield with defroster $149 rear vinyl panels $49 for 2 ( vinyl is good on all) seat belts cheap!!! $25 vitaloni mirrorS $50 have two ( DOORS, IGNITION AND DOOR HANDLES THAT ARE MATCHED, $99 WIND WING CHROME AND WIND WINGS OR WIND WING REGS. INQUIRE, ROCKERS INQUIRE, REAR SIDE TO SIDE ALUM. TRIM PIECE MINT $60 ALL ELSE INQUIRE FOR PRICES drive shaft $25 roof $199 perfect, doors $125 and $100 ( NO GLASS OR INSIDE no CARDS OR HANDLES ON INSIDE BUT DO HAVE THEM SEPARATE) inside headliner rods $40 brake booster $ switches $15 ea wind wings 70 pair, all else call or email for prices 909 860 0434 M0100.CTG
  14. I am finally ready to part with the interior from my 72. This is a 2 owner car with 51000 mi., in storage since 78. These seats, cards and hat tray cover are in mint condition. Unfortunately there are speaker holes which I acknowledge is an issue. None the less the set is worthy of being used in a restoration or someone who is looking for as close to original factory condition interior. I would prefer to have these sold as a set and to someone who is local (PNW), to avoid the hassle and cost of shipping. I am however willing to get these to Seattle to aid in the sale. I am pretty flexible with timelines to suit your needs.
  15. Hi guys, After a set of black door cards in good condition. If anyone has any they want to get rid of please let me know. Thank you.
  16. I have a nice set of black door panels. All pieces are in good condition and the blemishes are pictured "up close". The fabric is in very good condition for it's age and the board is original. The 2 armrest are included. The chrome trim paint has chipped and some is still there. The cost is $300 plus shipping costs. Send me your city and zip code for a shipping quote.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.