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Found 13 results

  1. $27.50 shipped
  2. Yes, I've been trying to source this spring part number 54129634112 with no success. So I've decided to make my own. Credits to Harold for telling me that he also made his own and it's been working great. I visited the local store and the only thing that matched the mechanical description was a zinc plated "R" clip in 3/16". Using a picture I had of a genuine W Spring, I used two pliers and bent the R to W spring. It might not be a perfect W, but it's W enough! Just remember, the key is to use a good quality R clip. It works perfectly as it should. Another step closer! [emoji482]
  3. Looking for a double row crank pulley as the foundation of my new air conditioning system. I am starting with the pulley and working outwards - it is the one part of the process that has only one solution after all. Show me what you have, this will need shipping to New South Wales in Australia, so it would be good if you can get a quote (USPS works pretty well I find). Let me know what you want all up and I will Paypal it over to you ASAP. PM me with details. Thanks in advance. Simeon
  4. Price:: 100.00 Location: : richmond,ca I am offering the door, glass, rails and other assorted hardware. These came of a 1976 bmw Passenger Door as is $200, straight clean and no rust! Passenger Door glass $85 Right front vent window with chrome frame $97 (chrome in great condition no signs of rust, seals are also in great condition). if there is something you see and you would like a price please let me know.
  5. Hello, I'm looking for a 2-row main crank pulley for my M10 rebuild project. PM me your offerings. I have a 02agin EDIS pulley. Has anyone ever modified one to support air conditioning? Thanks, Marc
  6. I came across a used and damaged s14 crank in 2.3L. It's visibly damaged, but is it fixable? I ask, because I do not know. Photos for the visually impaired: If fixable, would make for a fun stroker motor. -RD
  7. Price:: 100 Location: : Maryland, D.C. Suburbs I have a very good condition, 2.0L M10 block for sale! This motor had approximately 118K miles when taken out of service to be rebuilt for my Megasquirt/turbo project. I acquired a built motor so this one's not needed. The case and bores are clean and ready to be reconditioned. This engine deserves a second chance! The crank and rods that accompanied this engine is also available for purchase. I would prefer local pickup. However, I am open to shipping arrangements 100% handled by the buyer. PM me your offers. Photo are forthcoming. Thanks for looking! Marc
  8. Hi I have been looking for a decent answer last week and get nothing, so i hope some one here can help me. I'm running: 123\BMW-4-R-V, basic version 292 IE camshaft +1oversized SS IE valves ported e12 cylinder head 90mm 9.5:1 cast coated QSC pistons 71mm crankshaft wich give me a total of 1806cc Now i have two specific questions: 1) What to do with vacuum port on 123Ignition distributor? Just let it free? I did some research and it seems like i can take off the vacuum from one of the top ports on DCOE with this little fitting used for DELLORTO's but compatible with WEBER's, some one have used it? It can help me with something? I need your opinions. 2) I just found a 2.0-80mm crankshaft but it need to be machined 1mm/0.040/4th, i managed to find the corresponding rods and main bearings but i don't know if this will work, 4th undersize/oversize is too much? the machine shop told me it will work, my mechanic said it is junk, im taking my engine up to 7500 with no issues now, some one out there with a 4th sized crankshaft? I will be waiting for you comments.
  9. Looking for a window handle for my BMW 1600 68' Thanks
  10. Guys, For a while now, I've been noticing that my car is getting more and more difficult to start when warm/hot (not overheating, just at operating temp). When cold, the car will usually turn over instantly. When it is hot though, it requires LOTS of cranking, holding the gas to the floor, and prayers to get the car started. I just put in an s14 starter, which runs strong, so that isn't the issue (also, battery is only a year old). Instead of firing up, the car sort of coughs it's way to life if it isn't cold. (sounds weak, like it's misfiring or something, till I get it turned over, and idling). I have had 0 issues once the engine is started. It accelerates well (though it is smokey), and never stalls at idle. Yesterday, after ~5 hours of driving (at the Chicago 2002/356 cruise), I stopped at a gas station, and was stranded for 30 minutes. Starting fluid had no effect. I wasn't even getting combustion pops. It took ~30 tries of cranking (with varying amounts of waiting in between) to get it running. Finally, it limped itself on, and started idling. What would cause this? My intuition tells me that the compression is shot and the car needs a rebuild. I just ordered new spark plugs in case that is causing this. What do you guys think?
  11. Need a crankshaft pulley for a '72 tii. Thanks!
  12. Yes, I've been trying to source this spring part number 54129634112 with no success. So I've decided to make my own. Credits to Harold for telling me that he also made his own and it's been working great. I visited the local store and the only thing that matched the mechanical description was a zinc plated "R" clip in 3/16". Using a picture I had of a genuine W Spring, I used two pliers and bent the R to W spring. It might not be a perfect W, but it's W enough! Just remember, the key is to use a good quality R clip. It works perfectly as it should. Another step closer! [emoji482] View full article
  13. Hi Guys, I've made a few posts existing threads, current & old, I've also and done a lot of reading but I figured it would be most helpful if I posted my story/situation here. It will definitely help with the stress this is giving me, or it might make it worse. So, upon changing the head gasket... 1. I did not put the motor at TDC and mark the distributor. 2. Before removing the timing chain, I marked a chain link in relation to it's location on the cam sprocket, I also did the same for the crank sprocket. I market it by scratching a chain link and then scratching the sprocket (as seen in photo at top of sprocket) 3. I remove the head and cleaned in, turning the cam a few times. 4.I cleaned the piston heads, turning the crank a few times to keep crap out of the rings. 5. When putting the head back on the block, I turned the crank to have all the pistons halfway down. 6. To re-install the timing chain, I turned the cam so that the scratch on the chain would line up with the scratch on the cam sprocket (while simultaneously lining up with the scratch on the chain and crank sprocket). 7 .I to put the motor at TDC, using the mark on the cam (next to the #2) which I hadn't noticed until the other night :s. I also used a rod in the #1 spark plug to see where the piston was. The timing mark on the crank pulley is OFF, which I've read is not uncommon. I marked a line on the crank pulley in white (next to the pointer) What concerns me is, I don't think the ball would be visible through the bell housing as it looks like it's hidden by the starter. 8. I re-inserted the distributor, pointing at the mark on it's housing (photo), as I have read to do on here. So what's stressing me is... - How do I know the timing between the pistons and crank are correct? were my chain/sprocket markings good enough? - What's up with my flywheel timing ball? - Did I insert the distributor properly? thanks a lot guys! Anthony


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