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Found 32 results

  1. I'm working on the interior, and have run into two snags: 1. My new carpet is molded-to-fit, and fits great, but still needs some trimming and hole-cutting for screws and such. I've tried using a box-cutter and scissors, but neither seem to cut through the carpet fabric and plastic very well. I was thinking of trying a hot-knife. Any suggestions? 2. After vinyl-dyeing my seats, some un-cured epoxy spilled on them. It's been about 9 months, and the epoxy is still sticky. What can I use to remove it, without damaging the plastic of the seat too much? Thanks!
  2. Sbawolf

    Carpet

    Carpet is done
  3. Sbawolf

    Carpet2.jpg

    From the album: Sbawolf

    View from the passenger side
  4. I am putting in an Esty carpet kit, so i figured i would take some pics along the way. any suggestions to make this process better are appreciated! When you get the box with the kit in the mail, open it up and check out all the cool pieces. Do not lose or misplace one and think Esty forgot to put it in the box. She didn't, you lost it. 🙂 I used Esty's posted instructions as a guide. Things you need: -the carpet -3m super 90 spray adhesive -set of misc clamps from Lowes -razor knife -good pair of scissors -marker assuming you already removed entire interior, put down Rammat and put down a layer of Ensolite.. Start with the back piece that goes under the rear seat. you will have to trim the center tunnel opening to make it 1/4 in larger. once you get that to fit, trim the outside edges as they will need to conform to rocker shape. the top of the piece will be too tall. fold it over the top of the metal wall, mark where the back part of the wall is, and trim off the extra. will be around an inch. now get out the super 90. spray back of carpet and reat seat support (including the top). wait two minutes. CAREFULLY place the carpet in place, starting with the center. work out to the sides. this adhesive is unforgiving. once you touch it together, it is stuck. once the front is stuck, clamp the top vertical part, then fold over the top and clamp it down. in about 10min you can pull the clamps off. next comes the rear side rocker pieces. this did not need much trimming. i just aligned the top unfinished edge with the door edge. needed to cut about one inch slit at front and rear of the seat support to allow carpet to fold down. kit i have put carpet all the way accross the seat mount with the vinyl hanging on the inside. now is a good time to cut the hole for the seat slider lever....and poke holes for the seatbelt bolts! the gluing part of this...i only put glue on the top and first inch or two down the sides. this makes the side panel sort of a flap that allows access to wiring and gas line without ripping up the carpet. next is the front rocker pieces. on these the only trim i did was cut a "V" for stress relief in the top front part about 6in back. if you test fit you will see why. the back of this piece should overlap the rear piece by about 1/2in. i glued this the same way as the rear rocker piece, just the top and about an inch or so down the sides. next comes the kick panels. these in clipped the top back 1/4in of the nice edging off to make it fit easier under the pinch welt. install is pretty easy. jam it as far up as it will go and align the back edge with the door opening edge. on the drivers side don't forget to mark and poke holes for the hood release lever. the upper bolt for this actually needed a little "V" cut in the edging. it helped to clamp the back edge until the glue set. that is as far as i have got so far. more tomorrow when i put the center tunnel piece down.... carpet install....part 2 ok, so the side pieces are in, time to do the mother of all carpet pieces the center tunnel section. first, go buy a second can of super 90 adhesive. the first one is about to run out. next, look at the area around the gas pedal on the floor and the center tunnel. do not layer on the padding or sound deadener in either place, especially if you have or ever want to put a 5 spd in. the extra thickness will interfere with the gas pedal and the room for your shoe between the brake and the tunnel. esty's center piece is pretty close, but you will need to make a bunch of adjustment all around. start at the back. the back of the piece against the rear seat support is the reference. i had to elongate the brake lever opening at the back of the opening. be careful if you widen the opening, it is deceiving, you really don't need much. i also had to make some cuts around the seat support to get it to rap nicely. the gear shift hole was right on. the front and around the edges is where you need to get creative. a number of stress relief slices and "v"'s need to be cut to allow the carpet to lie semi flat. also need to make cut to fit around the gas pedal mounting points. now that you have all the trim and shaping done...here comes the fun part. how to you get this ungainly big piece of carpet covered in glue and place accurately? the trick is not all at once, and don't cover everthing with glue! you really only need glue on the top of the tunnel and slightly down the sides. i laid out the piece upside down and marked in cross-hatch where the glue will be eventually be needed. when putting the piece in, start from the back and apply the glue in sections. don't cover the entire thing with glue! i first did the section from the e-brake back. sorry, no pic's of this part. my patient wife was getting the camera when i stuck it down. next did the rest of the piece. put the tranny in 4th gear to give the hole in the carpet a clear shot on down. adding glue and sticking it down it really helps to have a second set of hands at this point to carefully place the carpet and hold it down until the glue sets. end part two. ------------------------------- carpet install - part 3 at this point you have two options. you can flip up the sides and spray glue under there to stick them down, or you can leave it as is. i think i will leave the center section as is. i made enough stress relief cuts that it actually hangs nicely. once the center console is in, it will be fine. leaving the flaps unglued also makes it easier to run wires underneath. the floor mats really don't need to be glued at all, the set nicely in place and don't move around. here are some pics with the floor mats in place. note, getting the drivers side around the pedals is not that bad. clutch on first, then brake, then push it way down and twist it 45deg to the left. gas pedal stub should slide on at this point. once the mat is down, use a razor knife to make two front to back slices over the gas pedal studs to let them poke through the carpet. there is one place where i will ask Esty for her opinion on fit. maybe it is my car. the pass side front floor mat looks like it could be an inch thinner on the tunnel side with maybe a little more curve. as you can see from the pics, it bunches up just a little. since is is nicely trimmed in black,i did not want to make a stress relief cut in it. there are still some details i need to finish, like poking holes for the seat belt bolts and the seat mount bolts, but the install is 95% done. i will refinish the seat mounts before getting to the little details. ------------------------ with the exception of the pinch welt, I finished the carpet install. wow, what a difference!! Esty's carpet kit came out great. overall, very happy with the Esty Carpet Kit! It was not that difficult to install, and her sense of humor in her blog instructions was great! highly recommended if your 02 needs new rugs... 🙂
  5. Day ~63 – 68 I’m trying to get a whole bunch of things done so that I can drive this car before winter comes and as you may know, it comes pretty quick around here. Weather Stripping/Seals - Driver/Passenger Doors Seals (Uro) I had read some negative reviews about the Uro door seals but I also read that some weren’t happy with the OEM version. Given the big price difference, I cheaped out and went with the Uro door seals. Installing the door seals, is a slight bitch. Jamming it in to the aluminum bracket channel isn’t fun and then removing it to add weather stripping adhesive is even less fun. When sticking the trim to the frame curvatures (where there is no channel), it’s not as it does not want to stay in place. Following the window adjustment, here are my issues with the URO door seals L - Trunk Seal (OEM) Much easier than the door seals, I simply stretched it out in to place and glued it in with some binder clips. - Front & Back Windshields (OEM) As with the headliner install, I followed ClayW’s instructions (BMW2002FAQ) for installation. Installing the glass with the seal was surprisingly easy, installing the lock-strip was a little more difficult but with the help of a lock-strip tool it wasn’t that bad. Interior Finishing - B-Pillar Trim I cut and glued in some new vinyl trim (fabric) on the B-pillars. Similar to what I did on the A-pillars but without a foam backing. - Door Cards (Rear) Cleaned them up, popped in new clips and installed them. - Carpet I purchased a carpet from Esty way back in Feb of 2015, it was finally time to install it. I used Myrtle’s instructions (BMW2002FAQ). It went in pretty easy, but like most things it was time consuming. About the carpet, I don’t like the way the 2 front pieces (driver/passenger “mats”) sit, they have pleats… but Esty does not recommend any additional insulation/sound deadening below the carpet so maybe the additional ½” - ¾“ made the difference. I think the pleats might ease out with some heat/time. - Handbrake Bearing Upgrade Installed the handbrake bearing upgrade I purchased from williamggruff (BMW2002FAQ), seems like a big improvement for little effort & money. - Seat Belts They functioned properly, so I simply washed them with some liquid laundry detergent and hung them out to dry before re-installing them - Speakers The front speakers were originally in custom pods when the foot rest would normally be, I didn’t like that… so I mounted them under the dash. I’ll see how that works out, and might change it in the future but for now, out of sight out of mind. - Seats/Steering Re-Installed the Moto-Lite wood wheel on the weekend… then re-installed the lovely E21 Reccaro seats from Aardvark Racing, last night. Now I have somewhere to sit while bleeding the brakes. Exterior Trim - Cleaned and installed the lower (knee) trim. I used Meguir’s plastic cleaner followed by the polish. They came out pretty good. - Installed the door window finishers. - 1 of the clips was aftermarket and didn’t really hold the trim, so being an impatient SOB, I rigged up a new clip with some scrap aluminum, a bolt and some steel weld. Exhaust / Wideband - I went to a local muffler shop (Federal Muffler) and had a bung installed for the O2 sensor. I sanded it, and painted it with some VHT exhaust paint. Upon installation, I noticed the fit was tighter than I expected (transmission support bar), so I pulled that off and modified it slightly for more clearance - I did the ASPX O2 sensor calibration and waiting to fire it up and see what’s what. Trunk The trunk and the hood were still at the paint shop, unfortunately the hood won’t fit in my XC60 but the trunk lid did. Popped the trunk on, it still needs some alignment but at least it’s out of the way. Up next… Take 2, at bleeding brakes, 1 of the fittings is leaking, seems like it’s not seating properly , nothings ever easy with this piece of junk. Timing & Carb adjustment. I ordered a Innova advanced timing light but before trying that out, I want to rig up a bracket for a throttle return spring. Building a new center console. To accommodate the new gauges & switches. and some other stuff I can't think of right now.
  6. Brand New still in the box Esty carpet kit decided to go with Salt and Pepper kit instead. 230.00 + Shipping
  7. I have a 1969 base and 1973 tii that I ordered in August (carpet #1 and #8) on www.estycarpet.com and Natural color Sisal Mat that I have never installed and are still in same box sent from esty. In restoring my tii the current Fjord Blue was discovered to not be the original color; but YUK! Sahara. In building a correct car, I am now covering the black seats in Saddle and the salt/pepper carpet will not work. Also, I was thinking of changing the saddle in my 1969 but decided to keep so the #8 or the Natural Colored Sisal mats wont work either. Good news is I get to work with esty again and order some new carpet! Good news for hopefully you, is I have these available NOW for shipping. I am selling for what I paid for them and will ship at my cost as long as you are in the lower 48 states. #1 - Salt/Pepper Carpet Set - $335- SOLD #8 - Brown/Tan Carpet Set - $335 Natural Color Sisal Mat - $175 Please email me at colletti.charles@yahoo.com or text/call at 858-208-8449
  8. WTB Early Roundie Rear Center Bumper Section w/o Rust Instrument Cluster Dash Surround from a three piece dash Early multi-piece carpet (tan Perlon/Felt style preferred) will consider any tan sets
  9. Today's rabbit hole... While I'm waiting for the crate of engine parts to arrive so I can clean up the engine compartment and go for a nice drive before I strip the car for paint, I've started to source other items that I think might need longer lead time. In other words, everything! Today I've been looking at carpet and from what I can tell, there are two "premium" vendors and a lot of, well, other vendors. Once I decide to keep the stock '75 seats (I'm waffling on this because the latches on the existing seats need to be rebuilt), I'll get the seat covers from World Upholstery, but I like the Esty carpet material much better. I also see a couple of companies selling molded carpet out there, for scary cheap prices, and I read a few not-fun stories here about molded carpet, so I'm going to stay away from them. Funny thing, the carpet in my '05 car must be the original molded stuff that came with it, but it is so thin and flimsy feeling. I don't want anything like it at all. I want something that looks and feels great! So....anyone have a good reason why I should choose something else over Esty? Thanks, Scott
  10. Hi All, A few years ago gutted the interior of my '76 to replace the floorpans and soundproof the car with the help of https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ To order the soundproofing material, I measured and made a rough diagram of the floor the car. It's attached here for anyone else to use. There is a .PNG image if you just want to reference it, or a .EPS vector file if you want to modify or refine it. And for the record, I'm happy with the soundproofing results : ) 2002 Floor.eps
  11. PO of my 74 tii stuffed in a dingy e21 carpet that I finally ripped it out to replace with a stock carpet. Quiksteel'd screw holes, removed tar, rust reformer on surface rust, & painted with rustoleum protective enamel. Getting ready to lay down B-quiet mat but I have some concerns. PO put a large gash (3'' at the widest, 6'' long) the driver side tranny tunnel - I'm guessing while doing the 5-speed swap - which was originally hidden by that stock sound deadening piece, and filled in with spray-on insulating foam. The sound deadening was disintegrating from a years of a heater box leak, so I pulled it out and chucked it which maybe I shouldn't have. Decided to remove the foam and fiberglassed the hole, but now I'm wondering if the tranny tunnel gets hot enough that this would be problematic.
  12. I am putting in an Esty carpet kit, so i figured i would take some pics along the way. any suggestions to make this process better are appreciated! When you get the box with the kit in the mail, open it up and check out all the cool pieces. Do not lose or misplace one and think Esty forgot to put it in the box. She didn't, you lost it. 🙂 I used Esty's posted instructions as a guide. Things you need: -the carpet -3m super 90 spray adhesive -set of misc clamps from Lowes -razor knife -good pair of scissors -marker assuming you already removed entire interior, put down Rammat and put down a layer of Ensolite.. Start with the back piece that goes under the rear seat. you will have to trim the center tunnel opening to make it 1/4 in larger. once you get that to fit, trim the outside edges as they will need to conform to rocker shape. the top of the piece will be too tall. fold it over the top of the metal wall, mark where the back part of the wall is, and trim off the extra. will be around an inch. now get out the super 90. spray back of carpet and reat seat support (including the top). wait two minutes. CAREFULLY place the carpet in place, starting with the center. work out to the sides. this adhesive is unforgiving. once you touch it together, it is stuck. once the front is stuck, clamp the top vertical part, then fold over the top and clamp it down. in about 10min you can pull the clamps off. next comes the rear side rocker pieces. this did not need much trimming. i just aligned the top unfinished edge with the door edge. needed to cut about one inch slit at front and rear of the seat support to allow carpet to fold down. kit i have put carpet all the way accross the seat mount with the vinyl hanging on the inside. now is a good time to cut the hole for the seat slider lever....and poke holes for the seatbelt bolts! the gluing part of this...i only put glue on the top and first inch or two down the sides. this makes the side panel sort of a flap that allows access to wiring and gas line without ripping up the carpet. next is the front rocker pieces. on these the only trim i did was cut a "V" for stress relief in the top front part about 6in back. if you test fit you will see why. the back of this piece should overlap the rear piece by about 1/2in. i glued this the same way as the rear rocker piece, just the top and about an inch or so down the sides. next comes the kick panels. these in clipped the top back 1/4in of the nice edging off to make it fit easier under the pinch welt. install is pretty easy. jam it as far up as it will go and align the back edge with the door opening edge. on the drivers side don't forget to mark and poke holes for the hood release lever. the upper bolt for this actually needed a little "V" cut in the edging. it helped to clamp the back edge until the glue set. that is as far as i have got so far. more tomorrow when i put the center tunnel piece down.... carpet install....part 2 ok, so the side pieces are in, time to do the mother of all carpet pieces the center tunnel section. first, go buy a second can of super 90 adhesive. the first one is about to run out. next, look at the area around the gas pedal on the floor and the center tunnel. do not layer on the padding or sound deadener in either place, especially if you have or ever want to put a 5 spd in. the extra thickness will interfere with the gas pedal and the room for your shoe between the brake and the tunnel. esty's center piece is pretty close, but you will need to make a bunch of adjustment all around. start at the back. the back of the piece against the rear seat support is the reference. i had to elongate the brake lever opening at the back of the opening. be careful if you widen the opening, it is deceiving, you really don't need much. i also had to make some cuts around the seat support to get it to rap nicely. the gear shift hole was right on. the front and around the edges is where you need to get creative. a number of stress relief slices and "v"'s need to be cut to allow the carpet to lie semi flat. also need to make cut to fit around the gas pedal mounting points. now that you have all the trim and shaping done...here comes the fun part. how to you get this ungainly big piece of carpet covered in glue and place accurately? the trick is not all at once, and don't cover everthing with glue! you really only need glue on the top of the tunnel and slightly down the sides. i laid out the piece upside down and marked in cross-hatch where the glue will be eventually be needed. when putting the piece in, start from the back and apply the glue in sections. don't cover the entire thing with glue! i first did the section from the e-brake back. sorry, no pic's of this part. my patient wife was getting the camera when i stuck it down. next did the rest of the piece. put the tranny in 4th gear to give the hole in the carpet a clear shot on down. adding glue and sticking it down it really helps to have a second set of hands at this point to carefully place the carpet and hold it down until the glue sets. end part two. ------------------------------- carpet install - part 3 at this point you have two options. you can flip up the sides and spray glue under there to stick them down, or you can leave it as is. i think i will leave the center section as is. i made enough stress relief cuts that it actually hangs nicely. once the center console is in, it will be fine. leaving the flaps unglued also makes it easier to run wires underneath. the floor mats really don't need to be glued at all, the set nicely in place and don't move around. here are some pics with the floor mats in place. note, getting the drivers side around the pedals is not that bad. clutch on first, then brake, then push it way down and twist it 45deg to the left. gas pedal stub should slide on at this point. once the mat is down, use a razor knife to make two front to back slices over the gas pedal studs to let them poke through the carpet. there is one place where i will ask Esty for her opinion on fit. maybe it is my car. the pass side front floor mat looks like it could be an inch thinner on the tunnel side with maybe a little more curve. as you can see from the pics, it bunches up just a little. since is is nicely trimmed in black,i did not want to make a stress relief cut in it. there are still some details i need to finish, like poking holes for the seat belt bolts and the seat mount bolts, but the install is 95% done. i will refinish the seat mounts before getting to the little details. ------------------------ with the exception of the pinch welt, I finished the carpet install. wow, what a difference!! Esty's carpet kit came out great. overall, very happy with the Esty Carpet Kit! It was not that difficult to install, and her sense of humor in her blog instructions was great! highly recommended if your 02 needs new rugs... 🙂 View full article
  13. Price:: 80 Location: : Issaquah, WA Pulled this from a parts car. This carpet is currently with me in Ellensburg, WA, but I will be back in Issaquah soon for local Seattle area buyers. I prefer local, but will ship at buyers expense. Complete Tobacco colored carpet set w/ vinyl trim pieces (one is still in the car trapped under the rear window gasket, but will be included once removed). I have not tried to wash the carpet at all so it is dirty and exhibits some staining along with normal wear and tear. With a good washing these would probably come out very nice, or if you have mats to put over them even better! The four main pieces are backed (sound deadening?) and not just carpet. Asking $80 OBO. This will do me better in your car then on my green shag carpet
  14. I am very new to the forum and the 2002 world. Just got a 1975 2002 and am looking for a good condition black carpet.
  15. new cut & sewn carpet sets - price + shipping black loop $265.00 - SOLD, WANT ME TO MAKE YOU ANOTHER LIKE IT...? SOLD...charcoal gray $265.00 charcoal black $265.00 gray $265.00 tan $275.00 saddle black 265.00 tan plush $290.00 black $255.00
  16. Location: : Fairfax, Virginia Price: SOLD Location: Fairfax, Virginia I am selling a new Molded carpet set for a 2002 from ACC. I ended up not using it. This is brand new. Never used. Here is a link to the site with a better view of the color. The posted pictures are in inside light and outside light to try to best show you the color. http://www.auto-inte...ediumSaddle.htm
  17. I've been working on sewing a carpet set now on and off for a bit over a year- yes many other projects interrupted me! I'm now working on the drivers side floor piece and cannot figure out how to fit the slots in the carpet over all three pedals! It seems like I might have to remove a pedal in order to accomplish this! Any ideas,
  18. Year:: 1974 Make:: BMW Model:: 2002 Price:: 16,500.00 Location: : Pittsburgh PA. 1974 2002,every system in the car is new or rebuilt,no rust Arizona car,too much to list over 100 pictures on my Facebook page, Mlalaga and black and tan interior,new carpet,ireland front and rear air dam,strut bars,battery relocated ,brakes done,booster done,rubber on windows replaced ,new wheels,tires,calipers,pads,bosal exhaust,fuel sender,ignition,engine detailed with new hoses,radiator done,oil,filters,elephant in the trunk,door cards front and rear,stereo,speakers,Alpine instrument cluster-rare,new bottles all around,engine gasket set etc. etc. All receipts and build out album available.
  19. So, I am thinking about replacing the carpet in my 1973 Tii. The car is very original, was partially restored back to close to original in 1986 by original owner, but I have no documentation of what the original carpet was...except for the fact that I have a notebook listing every single part, nut, and bolt that was replaced during the restoration...and there is no mention of the carpet being replaced. So, I believe that it is original. It certainly looks like it, as it has definitely seen better days, and is one of the only things that lets down the interior. I am leaning towards one of Esty's kits, however as for color, I am stumped. The car is Agave/Tobacco, and the current carpet (according to Esty) is Sandalwood. It is basically a one-color light tan. Apparently, Agave/Tobacco cars very often came with Wheat carpets, which is a two-tone light tan and darker brown. I want to keep the car as close to original as I can, so the question is: Replace carpet with Sandalwood, which may be original to the car but is less common and possibly less desirable? Or go with the two-tone wheat, which may be more common to the car and might look better, but may not be accurate? I know it is basically personal preference, but any thoughts? Wheat currently in car:
  20. I tried to find some previous posts that touched on the questions i have but couldn't find anything. If anyone knows of a previous post that covers off on my questions please let me know. I have a alpine white, 1970 2002. My interior looks to all be original and in pretty shabby shape, especially the drivers seat, panels, carpet and headliner. The driver seat bugs me the most. It's torn and you can feel the springs. It feels like i'm always sitting on my wallet, but i'm not. The carpet below my pedals is also really messed and up and it's easy to snag your feet when shifting. I don't know how to do the work myself so i've found a local interiors guy to help me out. Shall i buy some type of kit that fits my model for all the parts i need? If so are there certain companies that you guys have had good success with? I'm looking to keep it looking original, so i would probably go with black vinyl. What should i estimate as my cost for having all of this redone from your experience? Thanks for your time and experience on the subject.
  21. Group, After owning a 1973 2002 as a daily driver for 34 years, I gave it to a kid who appreciates it like I cannot describe. Good move, long story. Been sadly without a 2002 for the last 10 years, but always lusting for an Inka 2002tii. Found a 1974 tii 2 months ago. One owner for 41 years. A very nice car, not even dash cracks. Only $6,000. Superb car. Performs beautifully. Already have Euro bumpers to attach. See photos, one of which is the christening with Belgian beer. Anyway, the reason for the post is the following: During preparation of the interior for an Esty Carpet Kit (Thanks, Esty) install, several questions/issues manifested themselves. I present four of them to you and I seek your sage advice and wise counsel on same. 1. "Nails": Oddly enough, I found two rather stout and very firmly attached "nails" protruding about 1" (a) out of the top of the trans tunnel in front of the gear shift lever [see photo] and ( out of the floorboard at the junction of the firewall, transtunnel, and pass floor (one on tip of trans tunnel is visible in interior photo). What could these "nails" or extremely stiff wires and what are there purpose? NOTE: I removed the A/C components that were in the interior. 2. Heater Box: Any thing I should I do to the heater box while the interior is gutted? Overhaul it? 3. Vapor Lines?: I found two lines (one plastic line; one rubber line clamped to a plastic line) under the carpet and running up thru the firewall (see pass floor in interior photo). Are these vapor lines? Going where? To and from the engine? 5. Other: Any other interior items or issues I should be addressing while the interior is gutted and prior to installing carpet? I was never very partial to squaretails until I found this one. CSN advice is well-taken: "Love the one you're with." Thank you for being such fountains of knowledge. 2002#2 Cincinnati, Ohio
  22. Hey Everyone! Im currently getting my rear seat restuffed and while it is out I thought it would be a great time to address my terrible carpet. Im looking at budget kits to get either the only02.com kit in black (http://www.only02.com/Black-Carpet-Kit_p_8.html) or the esty h4 (grey) (http://estycarpet.blogspot.com/) kit. I had a couple questions: 1. I was planning on dynamatting the cabin. Do I still need the sound padding? Or will it look loose? 2. Has anyone compared the two kits? From my research it sounds like the older kits pre 07 from only02 carpet's quality wasnt great but others have said this has improved. 3. Does the esty carpet kit come with the padding? I dont believe the only02 does so if I dont need it I might go with only02. Thanks!
  23. Price:: 175.00 / set Location: : 45103 After several years of making the kick panels that accept 2" deep speakers without cutting the car, I have finally gotten around to fab'ing and making molds for a set that easily accommodate significantly more speaker depth. They aren't nearly as discrete as the original v1 kick panels, and in fact, these make them look small. But, these aren't so obvious as to look disturbingly large or modern in a 2002.. I am very happy with the final product! In the pictures below, I have installed monsterous 6.75" diameter speakers with a mounting depth of 2.5" with zero clearance issues. A more 'modest' solution would be a higher line (deeper mounting depth, bigger magnet) 5.25 or 6" speaker.. Also, and more importantly, my car has been cut, and measuring off of that added space, I figure that a serious 3-3.5" mounting depth is absolutely doable.. The design also provides room for a tweeter, and tilts the speakers about 1/2" back to front, and rotated up toward the driver seat. These accept the carpet covers for the original kick panels that are made by Esty, but I will be sending a set off to her to look at.. so as before, if you are ordering a full set of carpet from her, she will sub in the kick panel covers free of charge, or they can be ordered separately. I will be adding this v2.0 kick panel to the Bolt-onBliss digital store front found in my signature, but feel free to contact me here if you are interested in the first run of these babies.
  24. Price:: 150 Location: : San Fernando, CA I have remaining parts from my 1973 2002 tii. Complete black carpet kit - $150 Front & Rear Bumper - $175 for both 4-Speed Transmission & Diff - $200 for both Gas Tank (replaced in 1987) - $150 Please send me a private message for inquires. Have a great Independence Day Weekend!! Phil -
  25. Hi guys, My car is Euro 73 2002tii in Golf yellow with Salt and pepper carpet and i want to know what type was my original carpet - moulded or cut to pieces like the Esty carpets. I have seen a picture somewhere in the net and it was moulded. But few days ago i had the chance to see a very original and very low mileage '66 or '67 1600. The car is still in his first owner and i'm pretty sure that nobody changed it's carpet. And it's cut on pieces like the Esty carpets. So on what depends the carpet type? Year of producing?


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