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Found 14 results

  1. California requires a visual inspection and an actual test to pass smog. I have the smog gear still (although it is currently removed), but would like to keep my car in a state to where I could still possibly pass smog by throwing my old 32/36 back on come smog time. I am a novice when it comes to smog abatement, but would a car running larger manifolds, hotter cam, new exhaust, but with the smog equipment attached with a weak jetted 32/36 still be able to pass a CA smog check? How tough is it to differentiate a larger ported manifold vs a stock one? The visual inspector is looking at the carb, air filter and smog equipment (EGR, return hose, etc.) which could all be hooked up in a day fairly easily I imagine. Thoughts?
  2. Hey all, Looking to talk shop with somebody. I blew my radiator a few weeks ago and my 76 overheated pretty bad in the process. Replaced the radiator and everything seemed fine on the initial testing run, but things quickly went down hill the next day. Car gradually lost most power and started smoking a little (well, more than usual). A compression check shows I have no compression on cylinders 1 and 2. Bummer Looking for advice: the cheapest/easiest option is probably just to buy a known-good or freshly rebuilt head off somebody on the forums or down at Double02Salvage or Autohause909 (since they are in my area). Otherwise, I'd have to pull the head, get it down to a machine shop to see if its warped beyond repair, and then have somebody take it apart and rebuild, ultimately costing more time/money. I guess I need to figure out what head / compression I'm running right now, but since I'm a 76, I'm assuming its an E21. Is there any way to figure out if you have flat or domed pistons without pulling the head off? Lastly, its always been a fantasy to move to a longer cam with the ultimate goal to have this as a weekend car / autocross car. I figure since I've got to take the damn thing apart anyways, I might as well swap a 292 in there. I've been very slowly building that way with a Weber38 (jetted to something that works on a fairly stock setup), cannon Intake, Tii exhaust manifold. Any suggestions on this? Would I see real world power results without replacing the stock pistons? I'm quickly getting to the end of my backyard mechanic experience. Am I on the right track here? What would you do? Thanks for all the years of mostly good advice!
  3. Price:: 50.00 Location: : Bozeman SOLD - This was in my 74 tii engine. Looks to be in excellent condition, but I'm no cam expert. Number 12166100802 / 12 / 019B are stamped on the shaft. $50 or best offer.
  4. Anyone have the 292 regrind specs? Lift, separation, advance, etc? I'm getting down and dirty with intake tuning/acoustic waves and can't find this data.
  5. Hi Guys, I've made a few posts existing threads, current & old, I've also and done a lot of reading but I figured it would be most helpful if I posted my story/situation here. It will definitely help with the stress this is giving me, or it might make it worse. So, upon changing the head gasket... 1. I did not put the motor at TDC and mark the distributor. 2. Before removing the timing chain, I marked a chain link in relation to it's location on the cam sprocket, I also did the same for the crank sprocket. I market it by scratching a chain link and then scratching the sprocket (as seen in photo at top of sprocket) 3. I remove the head and cleaned in, turning the cam a few times. 4.I cleaned the piston heads, turning the crank a few times to keep crap out of the rings. 5. When putting the head back on the block, I turned the crank to have all the pistons halfway down. 6. To re-install the timing chain, I turned the cam so that the scratch on the chain would line up with the scratch on the cam sprocket (while simultaneously lining up with the scratch on the chain and crank sprocket). 7 .I to put the motor at TDC, using the mark on the cam (next to the #2) which I hadn't noticed until the other night :s. I also used a rod in the #1 spark plug to see where the piston was. The timing mark on the crank pulley is OFF, which I've read is not uncommon. I marked a line on the crank pulley in white (next to the pointer) What concerns me is, I don't think the ball would be visible through the bell housing as it looks like it's hidden by the starter. 8. I re-inserted the distributor, pointing at the mark on it's housing (photo), as I have read to do on here. So what's stressing me is... - How do I know the timing between the pistons and crank are correct? were my chain/sprocket markings good enough? - What's up with my flywheel timing ball? - Did I insert the distributor properly? thanks a lot guys! Anthony
  6. Hello, I'm looking to buy a performance rebuilt M10 with documentation. I'm looking for something that has high-compression pistons, hotter camshaft, and would be equipped with dual Weber carburetors if it didn't include them. I would need receipts for everything and understand that this is a long shot. Ideally I would like to purchase something like a Korman Stage 2 Competition engine, but am open to other options. I'm located in the North East and would like to try and avoid shipping costs if possible. Thank you.
  7. Hi folks! With the head currently off my car and being inspected, I figure it's time to start looking at how to get a bit more fun in my car via cam. Ken at Vintage BMW Racing has recommended I run a 284T (tall) regrind vs the more popular 292. I trust his judgement quite a bit, but I figured that now would be a great time to ask for some ride alongs just in case. My car is a bit of everything. Commuter, canyons, and every so often a bit of autocross, so I don't want anything too crazy. It needs to be able to sit in traffic if needed. The eventual plan is a full-on engine swap (maybe 5 years down the road), so I'd like to avoid any big buck upgrades (much would prefer a regrind vs a Schrick) unless they're REALLY worth it. My car is pretty mild - mostly suspension work + a 38/38, 5-speed, and Pertronix Ignition. Maybe header/exhaust in the future. Running a 121 head and Ken said he'll put in some flat-top valves which should get me somewhere around 8.5:1 compression. I've read plenty of the cam threads here, so I think I have the head knowledge, just want to see some in action. But still, you're all welcome to post your recommendations here of course. If you're in SoCal (I'm located in Santa Ana) and have a similar car + cam, I'd love to hitch a ride!
  8. Elgin 3671 Reground camshaft. Markings indicate 266 x 290 grind. This was recommended by Terry Tinney for a tii build but was not a great fit for my motor (went back to stock). Could make a great tune for a carb'd car, or someone with a more modded tii. Some light surface corrosion from storage on the cam journals. I was able to buff it out mostly with rubbing compound. Doesn't seem like it will affect longevity, see pics. No corrosion on the lobes or the rest of the cam. Less than 2k miles on this cam. $75 OBO. Pickup in South San Francisco 94080 or ship at actual cost.
  9. I have searched, and I cannot come up with a reason why my motor will only idle rich. I converted it from carb to a Holley EFI, but both setups only worked if my idle AFR is at 12.5 or lower at idle. Completely different instrumentation in both cases, so I tend to believe the numbers. Also the bonus question for keeners Why when I set an AFR target of 13.5 it will struggle to get to 12.5, and when I set it at 12.5, it struggles to get to 12. Is my cam off by a tooth? It isn't burning oil, but the P.O f'd with everything. Maybe wrong pistons. I am looking for any guidance.
  10. The last piece of my top-end makeover. SCHRICK 292 cam. SCHRICK HD single valve springs. IE HD rocker arms and locks.
  11. I have just received my brand new head blank for my ’72 tii. It came with new seals and guides. I plan to swap out the remaining parts from my original head which has a 292 cam. I purchased new valves and seals, but plan to reuse my double valve springs and rocker arms. I have a few questions that I hope you could answer: Do new valves need to be lashed? Can I reuse my rocker arms with confidence? What metric do I use to determine if they’re still good? Are double valve springs overkill for a 292 cam and should I buy new stock springs or are my double springs ok? Lastly, what is the best machine shop in San Francisco for the assembly? I have contacted Terry Tinney, but I do not have a car and the shop is at least an hour away. I can’t carry 50 lbs of heads on the bus to the shop. Thanks for the advice.
  12. I'm getting ready for a engine upgrade to Remy. Your creative criticism and help would be greatly appreciated. I'm currently running a weber 32/36 under a JAM adapter and stock air cleaner with the factory attached cold intake tube. I have a Bosch vacuum advance dizzy with a pertronix ignitor and blue coil. I have a Ireland ceramic coated shorty header mated to a dual down-pipe and factory exhaust system. I rebuilt the head recently. Stock piano-top pistons. (I assume stock C/R) This combination runs great and I'm going to keep all of the components in case I ever want to switch back. I can no longer hold back the dual-carb itch... I have been doing considerable research here on the FAQ and the internet. Like everyone else I'm trying to get the recipe right the first time. I've purchased the carbs. I decided to go with dual Dellorto DHLA 40. Apparently very similar in design to the Weber, the Dellortos (Especially the later models A-H variants), purportedly are easier to tune, have better idle characteristics and transition better. Jets and such are also available in finer increments. (No flame please... This is what my research has told me.) The carbs I bought are set up as follows: Any jetting comments and/or suggestions? Main venturis (Chokes) 32 Main jets: 132 Air corrections: 180 Emulsion tubes: 7772.5 Idle jets: 45 Pump jets: 33 Stock 40mm velocity stacks. Unless someone has a better suggestion, I am planning on buying the Ireland intake manifold with Red-Line upper cross-bar linkage. I am also researching a new dizzy. Crank-fire would be cool but I'm trying to stay more 'period-correct' and use a old-fashioned dizzy. I have upgraded to a CDI ignition in several of my other projects and it makes a dramatic difference. I'm considering a custom Mallory Unilite dizzy like Fishhead or a MSD pro-billet modified by Terry Tinney. 6AL ignition box. Any thoughts/suggestions? And the cam... SO many opinions. This is the one item for which I'm most uncertain. At this point I think I will use a 292. Not a regrind. Either a new Schrick or IE billet. I'm torn between the 292 and 284. I don't want to lose the bottom end. Anyone with a similar setup please chime in!
  13. Okay - so it's happened. Betty is going to get a new engine. Not that there's anything too terribly wrong with what's in there - I'm guessing it's all pretty much what came with her from Germany, 32/36 Weber.. nothing too fancy. What I've got now is a reconditioned block, bored for new IE pistons for 9.5/1 compression, a 121 head which has been cleaned and pressure tested - it's disassembled now, and I'm gathering all the parts and bits to put it back together. I've got the stock crankshaft that's been checked out by a machine shop, micro polished and "magnafluxed". I've also got the original stock cam. So - first things first - this is my first engine build ever - I've never done this, but I'm pretty sure I can do it - I've got a lot of big brains that I can lean on (like yours) My first decision is the cam, I think. I'm pretty sure I need to upgrade the stock cam to something a little hotter. I'm not building a race car - this is still going to be a driver, so I've landed on a 292 of some sort. I have narrowed it down to the Ireland new billet 292 that goes for about $300, or I've got a line on a used Schrick for approximately the same money. What would you go with? I like the idea of running a Schrick, but I'm a little worried that it's used. It looks okay in the pictures, but I have no idea what i"m looking at, or looking for as far as problems. I like the idea of a new cam, and the IE seems like a pretty safe bet. I'm going to probably end up getting the rest of my parts from them. I can post the pictures in a few minutes, but what do you think? New IE or used Schrick??
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