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Found 743 results

  1. So I found a box of brakes I had purchased for another car years ago from Kris. 5 Series calipers and vented rotors that I believe are from a 323.. Tried looking for the post or email but it is long gone. Looking for 100 US plus shipping. They are in great shape, the white marks in the pics are from newspaper that was packing them. Let me know if there are any questions. Cheers, Chris
  2. Hello guys. Did someone swapped in a e21 master cylinder on a E10? Need some advice here. I did swap a 79' E21 brake master cyliinder on my '74 1602. I´m having trouble when riding the car. Pedal brakes start to get stiff after a while... I have read somewhere itheres is a difference in MC rod sizes ? Any adivice would be appreciated... Thank you!
  3. Howdy, I'm rebuilding a 76 02 and working on the braking system but having a tough time. My current symptoms are excessive pedal travel and poor braking performance. I have new lines (hard and flexible), calipers, master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders and can only get a firm pedal if my rear drums are adjusted so that the shoes are locked against the drums. Even then, the pedal travels nearly to the floor before getting firm. When I press the pedal in, it feels like it is firming up for a short part of the stroke and then a noise sounding like a puff of air occurs and the pedal goes to the floor. Things I have tried so far: Bled entire system multiple times (>1 liter of fluid) using power bleeder and RR, LR, RF, LF method. I also cracked the fittings at the master cylinder open to see if any air was trapped in the master cylinder. I replaced my booster check valve Adjusted the rear drum brakes according to the Haynes Manual, No change. Checked for leaks at all fittings and end points, none were found Replaced the rear brake line with a plug at the master cylinder. I got a firm pedal when the pedal was nearly to the fire wall but the air puff issue still remained. Same thing happened when I adjusted the shoes to their maximum adjustment so they were locking the drums. Searched here and bimmerforums for people experiencing similar issues as me Things I am going to try again: More brake bleeding More rear drum adjustment Questions: Are there multiple sizes of drums/shoes for these cars? Do I have shoes that go with a smaller drum or vise versa? The puff of air I am hearing sounds like its coming from the booster. The booster is original. Could that be causing an issue? Everything I have read about a failed booster is that the pedal feels too firm, not too soft. Has anyone experience this or know what the issue could be. Any tips/tricks/hints/prayers are appreciated. Signed, Jacob, Frustrated First Time 2002 Restorer
  4. So my car has sat idle for 3 months and when my son started it up today all was fine until he put his foot on the brakes and the pedal went to the floor leaving the puddle under the rear p/side wheel. all hoses etc new last year - the question is am I leaving the car too long between routine driving trips?
  5. In an effort to get a little more balanced braking, but still fit the stock steelies, I ordered the IE 250mm (320i) rear drum upgrade. I have benefitted from a couple writeups, but came across an issue, and need some quick help. I am putting things bact together, and preparing to put the “b$## of a spring” on the new linings/backing plates, but the new backing plate doesn’t have the same lip to hold the spring that you find on the 2002 version (pictured). ? - Do I use it anyway (though it seems it would need the lip to keep from springing everything off), or need a different spring? TIA
  6. Hi All, so I'm at the last hurdle of the restoration before going for a "WOF"(warrant of fitness) New Zealand's version of a MOT, ive bleed the entire system 4 times now, in 2 different methods ( article from the faq and haynes manual), i have a RHD 73' tii with a dual circuit system with 2 remote servos. after the last round of bleeding, starting at the servos then rears then fronts, my brake pedal still hits the floor. i have a completely refurbished system (new lines,hoses, re sleeved cylinders, servos and calipers), Can anyone help either diagnose the fault in the system based on symptoms or give me a more specific RHD bleeding sequence to try? thanks in advance! EDIT; also just looked through the factory manual and notice i might have the front calipers upside down..... would this cause any issue with the upper, inner, outer sequence?
  7. Hi, who sells the brake reservoir blue hose ? did some search couldnt find thanks.
  8. I knew I needed new brake hoses when I tried to bleed my brakes and could not get any fluid to come out of the wheel cylinders because of the 40 year old swollen rubber lines. I knew my front hoses were replaced about 20 years ago because of the 9/94 date on them so I decided to replaced them for good measure. I started with the front drivers side. After soaking the fittings with PB Blaster for a couple of weeks, I tried to remove the front hoses. The nuts on the line would not turn. I tried cleaning the outside of the lines, I tried heat, nothing seemed to work. I ended up rounding over the nuts with my flare nut wrench and had to cut them off with a Dremel, ruining the brake lines. Not fun but I was able to put new cunifer hard lines and braided hoses on the drivers side. On to the passengers side. I really didn't want to have to cut the nuts off and replace the line that ran from the hose, along the firewall to the MC with the engine in the car. There had to be a better way. I remembered an article I had read about penetrating oil comparisons. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and Kroil were all good but a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone was much better. So I mixed some up and put that on everyday for about a week with a syringe and tube. Trying to find a better way, I read online that the nut on the hard line is locking the hard line in place and the trick is to hold the nut still and turn the hose instead. I had to find a way to hold the nut without destroying it. Then I found a pair of small 4LW vise-grips specifically made to hold hex nuts. One jaw has a V that fits on two flats of the nut and the other jaw holds the opposing third flat. I was able to get a very good grip on the nut. I found the vise-grip on Amazon and they are made for hex nuts 1/4 to 9/16. http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-Adjustable-Locking-Wrench-Cutters/dp/B0076ITU64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425148634&sr=8-1&keywords=VISE-GRIP+4lw#productDetails Holding the vice-grip stationary, I had to exert extreme force to the 14mm wrench on the hose. With a loud snap. it broke loose with out damaging the line, nut or hose. I was then able to do the same for the other three nuts and remove the hoses. New stainless steel braided hoses The bleed nipple on top of the right caliper was also frozen and had been rounded in an effort to open it. A six point socket was not going to work. I needed to use a different vice-grip with teeth to lock down on the bleeder. I did not want to crush the bleeder and break it off so I put a 1/8" drill bit in the bleeder for strength. With the bit out and my eye protection on and a fire extinguisher near by, I heated the bleeder red hot. Propane was not hot enough so I switched to Mapp gas which got the bleeder nice and red. BTW, I put my hand on the caliper and it was barely hot. I tapped the bleeder with a hammer and then quenched it with a wet rag. I dropped the bit back in and then was able to unscrew it with the vice-grips. Replaced with a new nipple, job done. When I did the back hoses I soaked them with PB Blaster for about a week. I unbolted the center brackets for the sway bar and let it hang for room to turn the wrench. Once the 14mm wrench is on the hose, there is no room to turn it so I had to turn the nut on the line. For the other end of the hose, I put the 14mm wrench inside the trailing arm on the hose and then loosened the nut. Tight working space but I did not need to cut the hose to remove. I was able to remove the rear hoses by using my flare nut wrench. I think the fact they had 40 years of oily grime protecting them, they did not fuse together. The beauty of the small 4LW vice-grips is that it has no teeth to mar the nut. The flat jaws hold three opposing flats of the nut putting equal pressure inward and will not deform the nut. Here is a picture holding an M6 nut that takes a 10mm wrench. But the real trick to removing the nut is to hold it stationary with the hard line and turn the hose to break it loose. Once loose, I was able to used a flare wrench to remove the nut.
  9. Need to do your yearly front wheel bearing maintenance? this description outlines basic process for doing this on 320i hubs, but the process is similar for 2002 hubs. Jack up car place jackstands under car remove front wheels unbolt calipers from struts. hang them from springs. do not let them dangle by the hoses. use channel locks to pull bearing cap off remove cotter pin on axle nut remove axle nut pull hub off axle. keep finger on the outer washer so that outer bearing does not drop out. put hub on work bench on clean paper. do not want to get dirt in the bearings. clean all the old grease off the axle so that you can examine it for damage. here is your chance to use those goofy angled screw drivers that come in the screw driver sets. use the flat blade part to reach down inside hub to tap out the inner grease seal without damaging it. pull out the inner bearing. clean it out. any degreaser or brake cleaner will work. make sure they are fully rinsed and completely dry before repacking with grease. pack with grease. i use vavloline synpower but that is probably overkill for a street car. you can do this by hand or use one of those plastic bearing greaser tools. i do it by hand. just make sure the thing is full. clean out hub and examine bearing races for damage. pack inside of hub with grease. i don't know if there is some specific amount, i have always just filled the recesses with a few fingerfuls. replace inner bearing. replace grease seal. fill back of seal with grease before inserting. clean and repack outer bearing. insert in hub. assemble the hub and slide back onto axle. keep finger on outer bearing so it stays on. put outer washer back on put axle nut back on put rotor back on put caliper back on strut put wheel back on (with wheel center cap off, if there is one) adjust bearing load. basically you want to snug it up to set the bearings, spin the wheel, then back off a little bit at at time until you feel smooth wheel movement with a touch of play when wiggling from 12 and 6 o'clock positions. a touch is defined as you can't really see it move, but you can feel just a little movement. put cotter pin back in. replace grease cap. tap in with hammer. i do not fill the grease cap with grease, but some folks do. no harm in extra grease. repeat for other side of car put car back on ground TQ your lug nuts. go drive. recheck wheel bearing play after a few days of driving. ---------------------------------------------- edit 3/14 need new bearings in the hub? lay out all the parts. hub inner bearing outerbearing grease seal studs keep the workspace CLEAN! don't get dirt in the new bearings. heat up hub tap in race using race tool now do the race on other side grease up the roller bearings and fill the hub. this is how much i used on one hub. can was new when started. ready on hub as with repack
  10. I've finally started making some progress. I've managed to rebuild the front struts with new tubes. The ones that came with the car were mangled. As in one strut insert crammed into an older one. Any way, new bearings 320i vented rotors and 320i calipers. I also threw a fresh lick of paint on everything. A fun discovery, one strut doesn't match the others. Other fun discovery the car had 3 lowering springs and one normal. I was under the assumption it was the mangled strut sticking that was causing the wonky ride height. I have added a little bit of plate to the front frame rail to match the overall thickness of the 2x4 sub-frame connectors. I also added in to 1.50" tubes to tie the front sub-frame mounts to the firewall. Finally after much scrubbing the engine bay was cleaned primed and painted. The goal as of now is to get on the road. A true nice paint job will happen in a few years after I've actually driven and sorted the car. As of now the engine bay is getting Massey Ferguson implement paint and the rest of the car will be getting matte black implement paint. I painted one of the quarters as a test. I think it turned out pretty good for a quick and dirty get me driving paint job.
  11. Looking for a driver's side rear drum backing plate for a '73 2002.
  12. Hi all here are some nice E21 big bearing hubs for those of you looking to upgrade your brakes etc. You must have tii struts or contemporaneous E21 running gear to run these. Price of $175 is shipped to your door in the CONUS only. If you’d like to pick up at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix that can be arranged at a nice discount. Thanks for looking!
  13. This is a bunch of malarkey! So….I grabbed a Stage 1 Kit from Ireland Engineering to kick my suspension refurbish off. Easy day, right? I’m a bit of a safety hound hence the 3 ton jack stands and stacked tires under the 1600. I get frequent visits from my 3 & 5 year old daughters. They always want to see what daddy is doing with his “race car”. Basically, I just started with ripping everything off after it was on the stands. Believe it or not, the part that took me a considerable amount of time was the old brake shoes. Those darn springs were giving me fits! Must go discs out back! One of my adjustment "nut" thingy's was pretty much stripped. Pseudo success! I had originally planned to go onto the military installation to sand blast as much as I could but I was horribly informed that they no longer support a sand blasting station. Dang it! Malarkey, I tell ya'! Sooo.... One idea was to break out the pressure washer and put unsuspecting friends to work in the back yard! ^The pressure washer worked amazingly well in the hands of BMW hoarder, Brooklyn Taylor! (This coming from the guy who was nice and dry....while, eating a peanut butter and jelly sandwich...) Brooklyn owns one of the only 6 speed manual equipped 850i's that I've seen in real life. V12 baby! VROOOOM. So I was left with a bunch of rusty parts with no sand blaster. Time to break out the grinder: I figured since he had so much horsepower, why not put a grinder in his hand while I got to work on something else! Probably should have covered the 70 Mustang.... Yes, it was covered in dust. More malarkey. Look what showed up! It came with a grinding wheel, but a quick trip to Lowe's rectified that with a 8" wire wheel. Priceless! After the wire wheel on the calipers, I started noticing weird things....like *different calipers* and *different brake pads*... *scratches head, moves on* Malarkey.... Rear drums were painted with engine paint. So were the calipers. Don't know how long that will hold up to the heat, but at least the brake fluid won't strip the paint! Onto the rear sub frame! FIRE!!! There's nothing like the smell of burnt rubber! More bushings.... A couple of relief cuts to release pressure so that I could use a hammer and chisel to knock these out. Paint! I did not use POR 15, rather, a good ole' can of Rustoleum. This is *not* huge resto. I just want to get the car well sorted for daily use. Rattle can will do just fine. Now let's put this thing together! Okay. In putting this thing together, I noticed that the bushings were different sizes on the ends. Basically, the thicker bushings go on the outside of the arms. So, I had to learn the hard way that these urethane bushings go in a "specific way". They are different sizes as you can see in the picture. Thick goes on the outside. Don't forget to grease these things as well! Another road block: I had to cut this little gusset down so that my bushings would actually fit. No problem! I was just shocked when I saw it. Here another thing. When I got these nice little sub-frame bushing stiffeners, they wouldn't slide through. If this happens, just take your wife's best steak knife and cut through the little membrane-like rubber mold to allow them to fit through. More paint... Half Shafts are "sooo" like late 60's early 70's... Due to this, I had to do basic maintenance. I like to keep this little bottle around...it's just easier to use for small jobs like this. No, this is not actually Craftsman oil going into my half shafts...These will be replaced with CV shafts... Grice? Where are you? Had to bend a few lines: Before: After: Somehow I can never make mine as pretty as the old lines. Wonder how long this is going to look like this! LOL Moving over to the front! Same basic stuff, bushings, but no shocks. Didn't feel I needed to spend another $200 for billys'. Not a lot of pictures... First off, I would not try to put the LCA on without an impact. :-) That bolt on the ball joint just spins and spins. Don't forget to pack it with a bunch of goo... Another issue I had when I put it back on was the new grade 5 bolts I had was rubbing the LCA. Couldn't have that so I went back to the old bolt in the inside location and just safety wired it. When the suspension compresses, there were no more issues. Much better! Actually, there were issues. Soooo, I screwed up. I painted the old shock tube with the shock in it. I taped everything up pretty well and it look really good when i finished. Problem is, I left a piece of tape on the shock cylinder.... You guessed it, the tape went into the shock body when I unintentionally compressed it and dorked up the seal. Replacement... *sigh* Things were just touch and go with getting this thing back together at this point.... Guess I over did it a little on the tranny fluid. (I never feel comfortable using the word "tranny"). Just saying. Next issue: Completely forgot to attach my springs with safety wire. Please do this "BEFORE" you put your stuff back together with shorter springs... DANGIT! Okay. Sometimes you just have to stop for the day, pop some popcorn and watch an episode of Game of Thrones. Another helpful tid bit: Tape to locate the spring while you are lowering it down. Oh one, more thing. My top spring perches were so worn that I had to add spacers at the top to keep the perch from rubbing. If I ever upgrade to coilovers, I won't have this problem. Maybe in the future. It's only money, right? I'll stop this here. I'm sure I'm missing some things. Please let me know if you have any questions? Cheers, Tim
  14. creede


    18 months is up... Info on kit here. http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-systems.php?p=2002_front_300
  15. Looking for a clean dual drivers side, left front set of brake lines off a Tii. Changing over to TII booster for Alpina Filter. Wanted to see if any are available before attempting to make a set. Thanks Girt 215-530-5000 girt1@verizon.net
  16. I'm sure this topic has come up before, but I wanted to get the most current inputs that people may have. I just got my '73 tii back from a full driveline rebuild, and could not be happier with the performance and quality of work. Unfortunately however, my brakes are clearly showing their age as they almost failed completely on my second day driving the car yesterday. I had planned on troubleshooting that problem and doing a normal full brake job as I'm sure the pads, drums, wheel cylinders, etc, are all in need of service and/or replacement. But then I got to thinking that for the amount of work effectively rebuild the whole existing system, I may want to go ahead and do an upgrade of the brakes now, which I had planned to get to eventually anyway. So, my questions for the group are: 1. What are the typical brake upgrades/kits that have people done sucessfully? 2. How much did you pay for your parts/kits, and where did you buy them? 3. How much better are they than stock (especially for any tii owners)? 4. Anything critical to know, or to avoid when upgrading? Any inputs are welcome and much appreciated. I'm just trying to get an idea of what some of the best options are out there. Thanks, Crash
  17. In the shop now trying to bleed completely dry system. We bench primed master but really tough to move to car and install and connect lines But we got it in and started pass rear the old fashioned way. But after 100 or so pumps... not a drip or air hiss And the full resevoir is not dropping much, maybe quarter inch. And even when crack a line at the master we don’t get hardly any dripping My first time and my brother is amazed at 5 lines and remote resevoir on these cars whats going in?? I will search but sending out this plea 😳
  18. I wanted to let you all know about a few new reproduction parts that we have available. Let's start off with these 2002tii/2002ti brake discs. We had these rotors manufactured from high carbon steel and treated with an anti rust coating to prevent corrosion. These are very high quality reproductions that have been professionally tested and quality controlled. We have over 100 sets available, $150 plus shipping per set for FAQ members. Please email us as Sales@VintageAutobahn.com with questions or to place an order.
  19. Is the stock e-brake handle the correct leverage ratio for E21 brakes? The rear brake components all appear fairly new but when I pull my e-brake handle there is not a gradual feeling of it cinching up. The handle pulls fairly free until it stops more abruptly than any e-brake I have used and the real problem is it's not holding the car.
  20. This is what's behind the front wheels of a 76 I recently bought. Guessing E21 rotors and Volvo 240 calipers?
  21. Quick praise for Bel-Metric as a source for hard lines that fit the 2002. I stupidly tried to re-use my original lines, and had a leak (duh!!) so I started looking at parts shops. Typically available in 30" and 20"... too long and too short. Then I tried Maximillian and BMW stock is $30/ea for the two short hard lines in the rear.. plus outrageous shipping. But after some digging, found this place and they offer our 2002 lines/fittings/etc in many lengths, including the EXACT 22" (544mm) needed for the rears. Less than $10 each, dirt cheap shipping and they arrived in 4 days. They also have tons of fasteners and other great geeky stuff for our babies! Happy Thanksgiving weekend.... Randy PS - Yes, I could have bought the 30" from OReilly, clipped it and re-flanged it.. and that is a skill I need to learn, but don't want to trust brakes on a brand new skill
  22. Not sure how significant this is, but cool to see Porsche brakes on a Tii strut. The website is in Swedish so I may not have all the facts straight. But looks as described + maybe a 323 vented rotor?
  23. I'm working to refresh my front brakes, and I know the PO has done some upgrade to the car like a 5spd, Tii brake booster. I tore into the brakes and I want to make sure I buy the right parts, can you help identify what calipers & rotors these may be? The hubs are 4 stud, and the rotors are vented, the calipers are 2 piston, here are some pics https://photos.app.goo.gl/hA47ZndzjO7cotIw2
  24. Well now I've done it. I was celebrating the success of installing the new rear brakes and finally got to adjusting the E Brake as my last step. One side would tighten but the other side wouldn't. Zero movement of the cable inside the driver's side brake. As is my want I thought maybe if I got the E Brake handle off I could squirt some PB in the sleeves to help free up the cable that's frozen, of course without checking FAQ and discovering what a pain it is to get the E Brake handle back on. Big mistake. But I've searched and seem to have found the thread to do this and will tackle that tomorrow. Not looking forward to that. Why do I do these things? : ( Anyway, before I do, is there a way to try to get that cable free or should I just live with one side working? Any tips will be appreciated. Thanks Nick
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