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Found 23 results

  1. It looks like there is some issue with my blower switch on my Behr AC. My AC is going through a complete overhaul with parallel condenser, sanden compressor, hobie dave bracket etc. Apparently my blower switch has croaked. I have posted on WTB looking for a replacement. Beginning to think I may be up the creek. So, without having to scrap my overhaul which included a heater box refurb etc. What the hell do I do If I cannot find that goofball 4 terminal switch? Would it be possible for one of you electrically inclined individuals to create a new one? (via some electrical supply company) It would be a help for all the other Behr owners to at least have a viable option if theirs gives out. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! Vic
  2. Looking for the Blower switch for the AC console, that is unique to our 2002 Behr units. Just need a working switch or the faceplate with one attached. Thank you, Vic Leonardo.
  3. Andy74tii

    ACbracket

    From the album: AC

    Behr AC system
  4. will consider parts seperately (sides, fascia, etc.)
  5. Attached is a very rough layout of my center console. It is for my Behr AC. The cardboard is the screen for the sniper. I need a couple of extra buttons. 1) Ac fan override 2) AC (maybe) 3) interior lights override. 4) Work lights(maybe) . The washers at the bottom are about the size of the buttons I was thinking of using. The grey nob is where the hazard is going. The old fog light switch is now a rear power trunk release. The stock knobs will be used and attached to a modern fan controller and thermostat. The radio has to go there because any higher it would crowd out the sniper screen, Just wondering if anyone has another place to put your extra switches, and what style you chose.
  6. Some background: A few years back, I removed the Behr A/C from my ‘72 tii. Didn’t work well, I didn’t like the look of the console, and I didn’t really use it much. I did not remove any of the wiring at the time. Fast forward: I’m working through wiring right now. I’ve got everything in the engine bay unwrapped, and have found three white/black wires leading to a relay mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay, right near the radiator. Standard black Bosch relay. I trace the first wire back to the cab of the car, and lo and behold, it isn’t connected to anything, and ends at one of two black/white wires capped and stuffed under the passenger side carpet (which I vaguely remember doing out of laziness when I took out the A/C). This sort of checks out based on reading about locations of A/C relays being on the front clip, passenger side, near the radiator. I don’t recall if the car had A/C installed as an option, or if the PO installed it during an early 90s rebuild. Anyways, I start tracing the second line. It leads to a solder on the big solder point under the brake fluid reservoir. “Great!” says I to me, as I take a swig of my Coors Banquet. “It’s the power to this little relay for the A/C.” Line number three then rears its ugly head. I trace it back through the driver’s side firewall, unwrapping harness as I go. It snakes around, and appears to lead to that “second” line that I capped and stuffed under the passenger side carpet when I took out the A/C. Granted, this is just a visual hunch based on how the harness routes under the dash. I want to undo all the wiring in the cab to confirm, but need to focus on the engine bay and getting my engine back together. I’m likely going to cap and label the ends of these lines, and tackle it when I redo wiring in the cab of the car. Then again, I could be totally wrong about what these wires are for. Conclusion: Don’t be lazy, and if you are going to be lazy, mark your work somehow so you don’t kick yourself later.
  7. Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF): I want to remove my evaporator assembly to service it. Is the BEHR evaporator assembly (plastic box) just sitting on the transmission hump and only held in place by the refrigerant lines or are there fasteners that hold the assembly to the hump? I have a 1976 2002 with a BEHR AC assembly. The AC system has been converted by a prior owner to 134a refrigerant. The compressor is specific to 134a refrigerant so it is an “upgrade” from the original dealer installed R12 compressor. I haven’t taken the time to see if the condenser and condenser fan are upgrades, but squinting through the louvers in the nose lead me to believe that the condenser and its fan seem newer than having been there since 1976. The condenser fan measures 11” in diameter and “u-turn” manifold piping extend beyond the condenser fan by about 1” on each side. The evaporator assembly appears to be the original dealer installed equipment. I’ve owned the car for just a couple of years and the AC system worked well in Raleigh and more recently in Orlando – tough climates. Recently, the evaporator fan stopped blowing. The fan blower switch didn’t operate smoothly anymore. I suspected a power problem as the system worked fine ever since I bought it. The compressor clutch engaged/disengaged; the air inside the evaporator assembly at the squirrel cage fan felt cold to the finger; the condenser fan blew when the compressor was engaged. When I looked into the ends of the squirrel cage evaporator fan ends (with the console fully assembled), I could see that the evaporator fan was not spinning. Infrequently, but not always, the squirrel cage would engage for a brief second when I spun (or “primed”) it with my finger it with the AC system turned on. I took the console apart (the car still has the “U” shaped console brace). There is a bit of discrete “craftsmanship” (literally, popsicle sticks and crazy glue) used to connect the trapezoidal console face to the underside of the dash and to the brace at the bottom – but is holds tight, doesn’t squeak while driving and it is serviceable once I’ve removed the side panels and the shifter’s boot/console assembly. I suspected that the evaporator fan motor had a power issue – either a poor connection or possibly the electrical components to the fan are worn or dirty. In order to remove the evaporator assembly, it was obvious that I would have to disconnect the evaporator intake and discharge hoses. The system was charged so I took it to a mechanic who had some 2002 experience, but not much “institutional knowledge” retained with their service team – but they were willing to try. They were honest and I effectively paid some of their tuition as they worked on the car. The mechanic diagnosed a faulty fan blower switch. I am sure this was part of the problem. The selector knob didn’t operate smoothly anymore – turns out a ball bearing had been dropped out of its race. I sourced a replacement switch from Tsingtao_1903 (thank you!), took his apart by drilling out the 1 ½” rivets and serviced my switch by harvesting some springs and I will harvest a back panel. This will improve my switch’s functionality as well as its structural integrity. The mechanic reinstalled the fan blower switch and put the console back to together. The evaporator fan motor still won’t spin. I hit the pause button with the mechanic. I am inclined to perform the diagnostic work (if not the repair work) myself, at this point. I’ve learned a lot from the book: Just Needs a Recharge – The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning, by Rob Siegel. I want to now pull the evaporator assembly and take a look at the fan blower motor. Before I take the car into a mechanic to evacuate the refrigerant so I can remove and service the fan motor, does anyone have any advice?
  8. Price:: 100 Location: : San Ramon, CA For sale is a used but in great, functioning, condition Behr 320i radiator. It came off my 72 tii and worked perfectly when removed. It does not leak. All hoses and necessary mounting hardware will be included, as well as the radiator cap. $100 + shipping from 94582 in San Ramon, CA. Plan on a 20lb box with dimensions 24"x24"x6". Also available for pickup in San Ramon, Auburn, Roseville, or Sacramento, CA. I accept cash, or payment via PayPal, venmo, or Google wallet. Check my feedback, thank you!
  9. I'm sure this has been done before, but I wanted to see if anyone has any photos or advice. I'd like to add air conditioning to my '75 to deal with these Atlanta summers, but all of the aftermarket center consoles look, well, aftermarket. I want to keep the stock look, so that would mean hiding the evaporator in the engine bay and routing some vent tubing to direct the air into the cabin somewhere. Is there a reason I shouldn't do this? Does the engine bay get too hot? Maybe the glovebox is a better option? Those with experience please chime in, I'm new to the A/C game.
  10. I suppose it only makes sense: as '02 prices appear to skyrocket, so do parts prices. Less than a year ago, an Aussie fellow re-listed an NOS Behr A/C faceplate on U.S. eBay 4 or 5 times. He received not a single bid at his $200 opening price, shipping included (he also offered a $400 Buy It Now, which seemed laughable since no one would offer $200). He eventually withdrew the faceplate. Now we have a used example of the same faceplate for $372 plus shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261820625782?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It's time to re-think that restoration budget! Regards, Steve
  11. I have just received a new batch of A/C brackets (hobiedave brackets). If you have not contacted me in the past please do so now before I run out. The bracket fits the M10 engine to add a rotary compressor bracket for air conditioning. The bracket cost $107.50 that includes shipping to the lower 48. I can ship to other countries and I have done so in the past. thanks for your interest. please contact me at dave.hobiedave at gmail.com thanks Dave
  12. Hello, I am in the process of restoring my car, and would like to resurrect its Behr AC unit. I have the head unit (needs rebuilding), but the PO dumped the rest of the components. Specifically, I'm looking for hoses, condenser, Senden compressor, and dryer. PM me the part(s) you have and your asking price to include shipping to Maryland 20769. Thanks! Marc
  13. Price:: $40 Location: : Marin County, CA Removed years ago from a vintage 1974 BMW 2002 car, stored indoors, excellent condition. Will work in most under dash, dealer installed auto A/C units. Knob turns easily and thermostat clicks as it is turned. Shipping available for 7 bucks extra
  14. Looking to buy shifter surround. Mine was damaged/broken during AC install. Thanks.
  15. Longtime faq fanatic from the Bay Area, all parts located in Los Gatos, Ca. All parts are sold "as is". Willing to ship but buyer assumes complete shipping costs but prefer local pickup. Paypal or cash in person only. If you need any detailed images please let me know. Wish to sell the complete retrofit as a whole not parting until further notice... SALE PENDING! Whats included: 1. A/C Compressor 2. High / low hoses 3. Auxiliary Fan with switch 4. Condensor 5. Behr Three piece center console with ashtray and jbl cd player 6. Blower assembly 7. Evaporator Everything looks to be in decent shape although I cannot guarantee full functionality, $250 Thanks for looking, Edgar
  16. $10 ea/set including tracked shipping PayPal: mofaraz@uw.edu Payment + shipping confirmation will be sent to buyer(s) -Mo
  17. I have re-made BEHR AC lettering sets-- this is a great way to restore your console. $10/ea set including tracked shipping PayPal: mofaraz@uw.edu Please ask me for installation instructions (identical to shift decals)-- see picture installed Best, Mo
  18. Price:: 1000 Location: : Boulder, CO Edit: System is sold! I have a complete Behr A/C system that I just removed from my '72 2002. The system was 100% operational and blowing cold when I removed it from the car. Includes the following: 1. Center console unit with both control knobs, hazard switch, ash tray, and side panels. 2. Compressor, compressor bracket for M10, belt and tensioner for compressor. (bracket and tensioner/belt are not pictured but are included) 3. Condensor/fan unit. 4. All wiring and relays needed for installation. 5. All hoses needed for installation. 6. 95% of the hardware needed, except for the few nuts/washers that invariably get dropped and roll under the toolbox every time I work on the car. This is as complete a system as you will find. Condition is as pictured. Clean it up, install, and go! Will ship at buyer's expense if necessary.
  19. Price:: 1 Location: : 20878 FS: Original Behr air conditioning parts out of a '73 2002 (does not include parts from inside the car) and a heater core. $1 for everything plus shipping charges from Maryland. PM or email jdkinase -at- gmail -dot- com.
  20. Looking to put A/C in SWEET16. If anybody has A/C parts, I'd be interested in what you have. Thanks in advance.
  21. First off I would like to give Boyd Moterwerks the largest shout out ever. Excellent shop, knows 2002's really well. Have been instrumental in the recovery from one of the worlds worst restorations ever. Part of the revamp included an AC overhaul. Even after Boyd's excellent handiwork, the console still doesn't sit perfectly straight but not a critical issue. But more of my concern is the residual bodged plumbing and wiring work of the prior charlatans. Eric at Boyd's had to do some real detective work to figure out and fix what they did wrong and it works, but still blows a bit warmer than the old R12 unit. I will try and summarize without turning this into a novel. One issue: IE Radiator is too big. Mechanical fan removed and the Bodge boys decided that the small fan I purchased for the AC condenser would do the work of both.......😠. So it is hooked to a thermostat. they also could not figure out the wiring for the Behr switch that turns off the heater when the AC is turned on. It also was working perfectly when I dropped the car off. But now that part is impossible to find. So the "Fix" was to add a stupid toggle switch that looks like it belongs in a a B17 bomber to turn on the condenser fan if I needed it for cooling things down (car and ac?) and trashed the original console. But now driving it for a bit, it seems like the switch may turn on the condenser fan and the Sanden clone AC compressor... I get a drop in idle when I hit that switch like the compressor has kicked in. So bottom line: I need someone that knows the Behr AC setup well enough to make this right. (if possible) Any referral would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


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