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Found 11 results

  1. Need to do your yearly front wheel bearing maintenance? this description outlines basic process for doing this on 320i hubs, but the process is similar for 2002 hubs. Jack up car place jackstands under car remove front wheels unbolt calipers from struts. hang them from springs. do not let them dangle by the hoses. use channel locks to pull bearing cap off remove cotter pin on axle nut remove axle nut pull hub off axle. keep finger on the outer washer so that outer bearing does not drop out. put hub on work bench on clean paper. do not want to get dirt in the bearings. clean all the old grease off the axle so that you can examine it for damage. here is your chance to use those goofy angled screw drivers that come in the screw driver sets. use the flat blade part to reach down inside hub to tap out the inner grease seal without damaging it. pull out the inner bearing. clean it out. any degreaser or brake cleaner will work. make sure they are fully rinsed and completely dry before repacking with grease. pack with grease. i use vavloline synpower but that is probably overkill for a street car. you can do this by hand or use one of those plastic bearing greaser tools. i do it by hand. just make sure the thing is full. clean out hub and examine bearing races for damage. pack inside of hub with grease. i don't know if there is some specific amount, i have always just filled the recesses with a few fingerfuls. replace inner bearing. replace grease seal. fill back of seal with grease before inserting. clean and repack outer bearing. insert in hub. assemble the hub and slide back onto axle. keep finger on outer bearing so it stays on. put outer washer back on put axle nut back on put rotor back on put caliper back on strut put wheel back on (with wheel center cap off, if there is one) adjust bearing load. basically you want to snug it up to set the bearings, spin the wheel, then back off a little bit at at time until you feel smooth wheel movement with a touch of play when wiggling from 12 and 6 o'clock positions. a touch is defined as you can't really see it move, but you can feel just a little movement. put cotter pin back in. replace grease cap. tap in with hammer. i do not fill the grease cap with grease, but some folks do. no harm in extra grease. repeat for other side of car put car back on ground TQ your lug nuts. go drive. recheck wheel bearing play after a few days of driving. ---------------------------------------------- edit 3/14 need new bearings in the hub? lay out all the parts. hub inner bearing outerbearing grease seal studs keep the workspace CLEAN! don't get dirt in the new bearings. heat up hub tap in race using race tool now do the race on other side grease up the roller bearings and fill the hub. this is how much i used on one hub. can was new when started. ready on hub as with repack
  2. Simeon

    Bearing repair

    Having given up replacing the wheel bearings when refurbishing the rear suspension, I returned to the task once I had rearmed with two new axle-end castle nuts. I couldn't move the nuts at the time, so having limited time to complete the work, I left the bearings in place to be replaced another day. I bought a new impact wrench as my old, single hammer wrench didn't touch the nuts. Sure enough, the new wrench, after working away for a while, removed the nuts as requested. As I was removing the right hand side nut, the hub came free from the stub axle. This seemed a lot easier than the usual script, which sees pullers and even heating the hub to get it off. The bearings were knocked out with a punch easily once I realised that the internal spacer could be displaced to give access to the outer race to apply the punch evenly around the outside. Once both bearings were out and everything cleaned up, I realised that there was no spacer shim included. This is likely to explain why the hub separated from the stub axle so easily (though equally I didn't have any obvious bearing problems). I greased one of the replacement bearings and installed it from the rear using the bush /bearing pulling tool that I have plus the gland nut for a stock front strut that fits nicely on the outer race. Having installed the inner bearing, I took my vernier calipers and measured the depth of the installation shoulder to the face of the bearing (61mm) and measured the length of the inner spacer (64.2mm) so with an end float of 0.1mm, I needed a shim of 3.1mm. Unluckily for me, the 3.1 shim is NLA so I purchased a 3mm shim from the local BMW dealer. This cost me $53 AUD for a part available in the states for $11USD but I could get it quickly (10 days) so I went with that. I figure that it is better to have a slightly larger end float of 0.2mm than none at all. Having obtained the shim, this was installed with the outer bearing which was tapped and pulled into place using my bearing puller. The greased seals were then installed on both sides, followed by the stub axle slid and tapped into place. I put the hub and castellated nut in place and finished it off by pulling the stub axle into place by tightening with my impact gun. Once the drum was back on, I added the wheel and lowered the car of the jackstands. Then after doing some arithmetic on my weight and the length of my breaker bar, I proceeded to tighten the stub axle up to its final torque. This saw me tighten using my torque wrench to 150lb ft (as high as it goes) followed by me hauling on my long breaker bar until I could applying my full body weight (250lb) to the measured length of my bar to give the required 295lb ft. A further small project also needed to be completed as a follow on from the suspension work. The right hand shock, lower mounting stud had disappeared and the PO replaced it with a bolt which was undersized. I had put it back together using the bolt pending arrival of the correct parts from Blunt. The correct stud is a press in design with a knurled section similar to a wheelstud. To install, I got it started in the hole with a few taps from a hammer before installing the shock and then pulling the stud into place with the nut and some judicious use of my new impact wrench to tighten and pull the stud into place. Old bolted connection for lower shock mounting. New knurled bolt, washer and nut. Bearings removed and old grease cleaned out. New lower mount installed. Bearing being wound into place with puller (and stock front strut gland nut). Stub axle back in place, just awaiting drum and a good old tighten.
  3. I was feeling crazy on vacation so I ordered some lowering parts for the 02. I want to get the stance just right, and I have stretches on my 15" rims, that I want to replace. I was taking out the struts and found this nice surprise. The spacer put underneath the body instead of on top. Also, the upper strut bearings were hammered and original. I am headed to the machinist to have the adjustable spring perch installed and a custom lower mount made so I can keep my stage one spring. Regards
  4. Price:: 30.00 Location: : pnw, usa Clearing out the last of my stash...these are all unused NOS parts: Sachs release bearing NOS - $30.00 assorted bearing seals NOS in factory bag - $25.00 Fan pulley NOS - $30.00 clear plastic grill inserts x 2 NOS still in factory bag - $10.00 Flywheel bolts NOS still in factory bag - $15.00 Input bearing, roller bearing style, NOS - $10 .00 Buy them all; take 10% off and shipping to lower 48 states is included. Paypal preferred. Please email: hanksj AT hotmail DOT com to inquire or purchase.
  5. 1, Good condition filler rubber hose for 71 and up. It's soft without crack and leak holes. $35,00 shipped lower 48 states. 2, Like new Tii 228mm manual tranny release (throwout) bearing. I put it on for two weeks and decided to go for a 5-speed, so this is in like new condition. It's for 4-speed tranny only. $45.00 shipped lower 48 states. PM me for any question or photos. Thanks
  6. Seeking the bearing/roller for the accelerator pedal for a '73. Missing when I purchased the car. Anyone have a spare, or know where I can buy one individually online? Thanks. JD
  7. if this is helpful, i will make an article out of it. please add stuff you see missing or that needs fixing! Need to do your yearly front wheel bearing maintenance? this description outlines basic process for doing this on 320i hubs, but the process is similar for 2002 hubs. Jack up car place jackstands under car remove front wheels unbolt calipers from struts. hang them from springs. do not let them dangle by the hoses. use channel locks to pull bearing cap off remove cotter pin on axle nut remove axle nut pull hub off axle. keep finger on the outer washer so that outer bearing does not drop out. put hub on work bench on clean paper. do not want to get dirt in the bearings. clean all the old grease off the axle so that you can examine it for damage. here is your chance to use those goofy angled screw drivers that come in the screw driver sets. use the flat blade part to reach down inside hub to tap out the inner grease seal without damaging it. pull out the inner bearing. clean it out. any degreaser or brake cleaner will work. make sure they are fully rinsed and completely dry before repacking with grease. pack with grease. i use vavloline synpower but that is probably overkill for a street car. you can do this by hand or use one of those plastic bearing greaser tools. i do it by hand. just make sure the thing is full. clean out hub and examine bearing races for damage. pack inside of hub with grease. replace inner bearing. replace grease seal. clean and repack outer bearing. insert in hub. assemble the hub and slide back onto axle. keep finger on outer bearing so it stays on. put outer washer back on put axle nut back on put rotor back on put caliper back on strut put wheel back on (with wheel center cap off, if there is one) adjust bearing load. basically you want to snug it up to set the bearings, spin the wheel, then back off a little bit at at time until you feel smooth wheel movement with a touch of play when wiggling from 12 and 6 o'clock positions. a touch is defined as you can't really see it move, but you can feel just a little movement. put cotter pin back in. replace grease cap. tap in with hammer. repeat for other side of car put car back on ground TQ your lug nuts. go drive. recheck wheel bearing play after a few days of driving.
  8. wheel bearing kit (inner, outer, seal and pin) new in box. $15 plus shipping. stock 2002, not tii. $15 plus shipping or free delivery anywhere within 10 miles of I-75 between Atlanta and Detroit (late June).
  9. My mechanic just told me that i need my driver side wheel bearing replaced and they are quoting me $400 and something. I just wanted to ask you all if this seems reasonable as I have never had this done before. They also told me that i need 14" wheels because of my rear brakes being converted to disc and that the hubs are too close to the wheels causing some rub. Anyone had this issue? Thanks in advance Jeramy
  10. Ok, so I have an interesting question. I am building a motor. My '75 crank had a toasted thrust location and I had to use another, of unknown vintage. I have a new sleeve and needle bearing set. The new crank has the grooved ball bearing type pilot. Here in lies the question.. item 18-19 show the sleeve and needle: http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=47140&rnd=03192010 .. the crank has the 32mm I.D.needed for the sleeve, that accepts the needle bearing set. I was under the assumption that the sleeve exists to adapt the crank to accept the needle bearing.. Is this accurate? this leads to the question, does the needle type take a cover? I can't tell from any of the diagrams. anyone have pics? Thanks, m'friends.
  11. Morning FAQ'rs, Need advice on changing out the carrier bearing (center bearing) drove my car and the loud thudding I heard was the driveshaft hitting the bottom of the pan. My carrier bearing is toast. I have a 68' long diff, has anyone changed this out themselves ? was looking over the previous threads, looks like they have to be pressed in, though im not 100% sure as opinions differ. I want to tackle this myself but I don't have a press, my buddy has a press but not sure if it'll work. Plus, I was wondering if no press is required, which end do I yank to replace the carrier bearing ? ( tranny side, diff side) write up links, advice, tip, warnings, etc is great appreciated.


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