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Found 11 results

  1. This is a bunch of malarkey! So….I grabbed a Stage 1 Kit from Ireland Engineering to kick my suspension refurbish off. Easy day, right? I’m a bit of a safety hound hence the 3 ton jack stands and stacked tires under the 1600. I get frequent visits from my 3 & 5 year old daughters. They always want to see what daddy is doing with his “race car”. Basically, I just started with ripping everything off after it was on the stands. Believe it or not, the part that took me a considerable amount of time was the old brake shoes. Those darn springs were giving me fits! Must go discs out back! One of my adjustment "nut" thingy's was pretty much stripped. Pseudo success! I had originally planned to go onto the military installation to sand blast as much as I could but I was horribly informed that they no longer support a sand blasting station. Dang it! Malarkey, I tell ya'! Sooo.... One idea was to break out the pressure washer and put unsuspecting friends to work in the back yard! ^The pressure washer worked amazingly well in the hands of BMW hoarder, Brooklyn Taylor! (This coming from the guy who was nice and dry....while, eating a peanut butter and jelly sandwich...) Brooklyn owns one of the only 6 speed manual equipped 850i's that I've seen in real life. V12 baby! VROOOOM. So I was left with a bunch of rusty parts with no sand blaster. Time to break out the grinder: I figured since he had so much horsepower, why not put a grinder in his hand while I got to work on something else! Probably should have covered the 70 Mustang.... Yes, it was covered in dust. More malarkey. Look what showed up! It came with a grinding wheel, but a quick trip to Lowe's rectified that with a 8" wire wheel. Priceless! After the wire wheel on the calipers, I started noticing weird things....like *different calipers* and *different brake pads*... *scratches head, moves on* Malarkey.... Rear drums were painted with engine paint. So were the calipers. Don't know how long that will hold up to the heat, but at least the brake fluid won't strip the paint! Onto the rear sub frame! FIRE!!! There's nothing like the smell of burnt rubber! More bushings.... A couple of relief cuts to release pressure so that I could use a hammer and chisel to knock these out. Paint! I did not use POR 15, rather, a good ole' can of Rustoleum. This is *not* huge resto. I just want to get the car well sorted for daily use. Rattle can will do just fine. Now let's put this thing together! Okay. In putting this thing together, I noticed that the bushings were different sizes on the ends. Basically, the thicker bushings go on the outside of the arms. So, I had to learn the hard way that these urethane bushings go in a "specific way". They are different sizes as you can see in the picture. Thick goes on the outside. Don't forget to grease these things as well! Another road block: I had to cut this little gusset down so that my bushings would actually fit. No problem! I was just shocked when I saw it. Here another thing. When I got these nice little sub-frame bushing stiffeners, they wouldn't slide through. If this happens, just take your wife's best steak knife and cut through the little membrane-like rubber mold to allow them to fit through. More paint... Half Shafts are "sooo" like late 60's early 70's... Due to this, I had to do basic maintenance. I like to keep this little bottle around...it's just easier to use for small jobs like this. No, this is not actually Craftsman oil going into my half shafts...These will be replaced with CV shafts... Grice? Where are you? Had to bend a few lines: Before: After: Somehow I can never make mine as pretty as the old lines. Wonder how long this is going to look like this! LOL Moving over to the front! Same basic stuff, bushings, but no shocks. Didn't feel I needed to spend another $200 for billys'. Not a lot of pictures... First off, I would not try to put the LCA on without an impact. :-) That bolt on the ball joint just spins and spins. Don't forget to pack it with a bunch of goo... Another issue I had when I put it back on was the new grade 5 bolts I had was rubbing the LCA. Couldn't have that so I went back to the old bolt in the inside location and just safety wired it. When the suspension compresses, there were no more issues. Much better! Actually, there were issues. Soooo, I screwed up. I painted the old shock tube with the shock in it. I taped everything up pretty well and it look really good when i finished. Problem is, I left a piece of tape on the shock cylinder.... You guessed it, the tape went into the shock body when I unintentionally compressed it and dorked up the seal. Replacement... *sigh* Things were just touch and go with getting this thing back together at this point.... Guess I over did it a little on the tranny fluid. (I never feel comfortable using the word "tranny"). Just saying. Next issue: Completely forgot to attach my springs with safety wire. Please do this "BEFORE" you put your stuff back together with shorter springs... DANGIT! Okay. Sometimes you just have to stop for the day, pop some popcorn and watch an episode of Game of Thrones. Another helpful tid bit: Tape to locate the spring while you are lowering it down. Oh one, more thing. My top spring perches were so worn that I had to add spacers at the top to keep the perch from rubbing. If I ever upgrade to coilovers, I won't have this problem. Maybe in the future. It's only money, right? I'll stop this here. I'm sure I'm missing some things. Please let me know if you have any questions? Cheers, Tim
  2. Had not seen full “how to” for diff swap, so here you go. Simple job. Well, simple on a car that gets its diff swapped a lot. No promises on a diff that has been in a car for 40 years… What you need: A diff Two 17mm combo wrenches 17mm socket 19mm combo wrench 19mm socket 17mm socket 6mm hex socket (for 2002 cv joints) 8mm hex socket (if you have 320 cv joints) Jack stands Jack First, get the car up on jackstands. Remove muffler Lock e-brake and put car in gear Loosen the 4 nuts connecting drive shaft to diff (17mm). you will need to get at them from the right side of diff and will have to rotate the drive shaft and re-lock once. Loosen the 24 hex bolts that hold the half shafts to the diff and wheel hubs. 6mm hex for 2002 cv joints, 8mm hex for 320i joints. You could get away with just doing the inner ones, but gives you more room to work if you just take them all the way out. Creative use of a combo wrench applied to a short hex key if that is all you have. Or use hex socket and drive Halfshafts out. Good time to check cv joints and refresh if needed. Now get a jack under the subframe to support it. without the diff attached, the subframe will sag. Not good for the mounts. Remove hanger bracket. I just a tranny jack under the diff to support. Or you can have a buddy bench press it. 17mm combo wrenches on the bracket, 17mm socket on the nuts holding diff to bracket. remove the 4 bolts holding the diff to the subframe. 19mm combo wrench on top, 19mm socket on bottom. impact gun is wonderfull thing here. Lower back of diff first. When clear of tank, slide out. If swapping in a 320 3.91, you will need to use the 2002 diff cover. Good time to check the innards and reseal the cover anyway. Remove cover with 17mm socket and scrape the old gasket/goo off cover and diff. Bmw specifies a paper gasket on the cover, but I have never used one in the dozens of diff covers I have sealed. Never had a leak. I use permatex ultra black sealant instead. Apply a bead around diff Replace cover gently. Screw bolts in until just snug by hand. You should see just a little ultra black ooze out. Let diff sit for an hour or two for goo to set. Once goo has set, torque cover to 32ftlbs. Get new crush seals for fill and drain plugs….these are on use items. Do not reuse. Now is the good time to refill the diff with oil. I use redline 75w90 for street diffs. Redlilne lightweight shockproof oil for track diffs. Assembly is reverse of the above process…..but when I put mine back together I will add detail to this. the oils.. much easier to fill diff like this than when it is in the car. takes 1.1 qts fill to here diff plugs get 41ftlbs installed
  3. Brand new, OEM BMW drive axle output half shaft fits the following: *3.0cs *Bavaria *3.0csi *2800 *3.0s *2500 *2800cs part # 33211102423 2 retail for $1244.97 $900 + shipping (see last pic)
  4. leftover stuff from recent project. 1/ a pair of brand new CV joints from LaJolla Independant. they sell these for $190 a pair, plus $15 shipping. I will sell these two for $150 for both shipped conus. these are brand new, never installed. 2/ BMW CV joint grease. two tubes. each tube does one joint. $20 shipped conus for both. PM me if interested.
  5. After convincing myself that I don't really need and LSD, low and behold..a local guy was selling a 3.91 E21 LSD and I lost all my common sense on bought it. "Saints be Praised" he threw in a couple of E21 rear axles too. It has about 150K on it. Sat for 5 years on the shelf. Worked well on a test rig recently and oil drained very clean. It is dirty as heck on the outside, but intentionally kept that way to prove there were no leaks. Interesting tid bit. It was pulled off a car with an automatic transmission. Did any E21's come with that combo? I thought the LSD's were only on 320iS's I am not a mechanic...So now what? Is it safe to blast it with the power washer the get the crud off? Should I take it to the local Joe's Differentials and Doughnuts shop to have it checked out or just fill it with Redline and move forward? For the Axles: Is there a way to tell which side was inboard vs out? Would like to keep the inboard CV's due to less wear and tear. Also do I need a specialty shop to put 02 outer CV's on the axles or could I drop it anywhere? Lastly: If I do need a shop. Anyone have any recommendations in the Portland/Salem/Eugene area? Thank you for any help. Cheers! Vic
  6. I was driving back from lunch today and when I went over a set of train tracks and heard a big *WHAM*. I had been messing with my muffler this week, so I thought for sure it had fallen off a hanger and hit the ground. But when I climbed underneath I found this: The half shaft disconnected at the differential. And I had installed this part myself last year, so it was totally my fault. In fact, I just changed the differential fluid last week, so I was right there. *facepalm* Well, it's sitting in a parking lot while I wait for the tow truck to show up. I guess one upside is that I'm now completely sure I have an open differential! Anyway, don't do what I did. These can come undone. When I installed the CVs last year, I triple-checked the torque on all the bolts and used blue Loctite so I don't have any idea what I did wrong. I guess I'll do it again...
  7. My mechanic just told me that i need my driver side wheel bearing replaced and they are quoting me $400 and something. I just wanted to ask you all if this seems reasonable as I have never had this done before. They also told me that i need 14" wheels because of my rear brakes being converted to disc and that the hubs are too close to the wheels causing some rub. Anyone had this issue? Thanks in advance Jeramy
  8. Hey y'all, I need some help here. I'm hearing this terrible sound but only sometimes. It sounds like it's coming from my left rear so i'm thinking it might be my axle. My Mechanic can Not make it happen for them so they said they can't fix it but they have heard it... Sound: horrible scrapping/rubbing that would cause anyone to pull over. Again, it's not consistent, which in this case is makes it hard to diagnose. If it is the Axle, where may i pick two up for my rear of my car? Thanks in advance for your help, Jeramy
  9. Hi everyone, I know that this has been discussed by many but I'm having some issues with what I thought was common knowledge posted on the internet. I've been trying to build a set of axles for a late E21 LSD I've picked up (3.91:1, 10mm threaded holes on the flanges). I've seen quite a few ways to do this, from getting axle flanges redrilled to 8mm and using 5mm or 1/4" spacers, to swapping flanges, to drilling CVs out to 10mm. The route I'm trying to take is one that I've seen posted more than once: Take a stock 2002 CV, a stock 2002 axle shaft, and a '79-only E21 CV, and build an axle which requires no drilling, spacers, or tapping. However, upon building an axle with this combination, I'm left with an axle which is roughly 1/8" shorter than a stock 2002 axle - I figure this number by taking the offset from the flange face of the midpoint of each CV. The CVs from the '79 E21 appear to be moved inward (toward the axle shaft) by about .150" when compared to the 2002 CV. Now because the differential is about 10mm more narrow on the E21 compared to the 2002, this is obviously not ideal. My understanding of this combination, and the reason I wanted to build them this way, is that the '79 E21 CVs are thicker by the correct amount to make up the distance that would normally be taken up by a spacer. But from what I've measured, this is not the case, and they are actually effectively shorter than a standard 2002 CV. There are two possibilities that I can think of - the inner CVs I have are not actually from an '79 E21. I can't really verify this as I found them in a crate of misc. 2002 and E21 halfshafts, but they are stamped with "04/79" and bolt up to the differential I have, so I assume they are correct, but being that I've never seen any pictures or dimensions of these one-year-only CVs I can't be 100% sure. The other, more likely possibility, is that I don't like the data that I've collected and can't accept that something I read on the internet is untrue Has anybody else struggled with this? I thought this would be a straightforward process but as I look at more axles and measure more dimensions, it seems like BMW changed something about the axles approximately every 5 minutes. I'll have some pictures up later today of some problem areas I'm having.
  10. Price:: 800 Location: : Florida Up for sale is a set of 2002 axles. Meant to be used in a 2002 with an e30 or e28 differential. Made from 4340 Chromoly steel. Have zero miles on them, brand new in packaging Have been kept wrapped up, only removed for pictures Asking $800 obo shipped
  11. Well, I messed up one of my stub axles getting it off the car. The splines have some pitting anyway which is way it took so much to get it off, so maybe this was no great loss, but it has me seriously considering upgrading to the billets axles that Ireland sells. There was some (unconfirmed at this point - links no longer work) talk of the billet stub axles breaking back in 2003 or so, but haven't seen or heard problems since. While I've come to consider these, which are hopefully overkill for a street car, I'm also looking at the turbo stub axles and it looks like cost-wise it's about a wash. The turbo bearing inner diameter is 30mm vs. the 28mm standard issue. The turbo pieces will cost more in the end if I have to buy them through Walloth Nesch, and pay VAT and probably some additional charges from converting funds I'd imagine. Here's how the turbo pieces are in reference to interchangeability per realoem.com: Turbo Stub Axles: 33 41 1 111 092 Turbo Stub Axles x2 specific to turbo $158.39 33 41 1 119 994 Turbo Bearings x2 specific to turbo and E21 $109.25 33 41 3 404 161 Bearing Seals x4 non-specific: all '02 and E21 included 07 11 9 945 270 Split Pin x2 33 41 1 111 094 Spacer Sleeve x2 specific to turbo and NK 2000 NLA $38 33 41 3 404 109 Spacer Sleeve x2 2002, TII - does not fit Turbo 33 41 3 704 135 Drive Flanges x2 specific to turbo and NK 2000 $232.84 ___________________________________________________________________ Don't absolutely need: 33 41 3 404 150 Crown Nut x2 non-specific: all '02, E21 & NK 33 41 1 118 731 Shim ? non-specific: all '02, E21 So, at the bare minimum, the parts add up to right around $1000, except that doesn't include VAT (possibly $159) and you don't get the space sleeves you need, or know what kind of shims you'd require. The billet stubs seem like they'd be less of a hassle with shims & space sleeves and I have the hardened Tii Drive Flanges 33 41 1 101 848 already. What am I missing here, if anything?

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