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Found 35 results

  1. It looks like there is some issue with my blower switch on my Behr AC. My AC is going through a complete overhaul with parallel condenser, sanden compressor, hobie dave bracket etc. Apparently my blower switch has croaked. I have posted on WTB looking for a replacement. Beginning to think I may be up the creek. So, without having to scrap my overhaul which included a heater box refurb etc. What the hell do I do If I cannot find that goofball 4 terminal switch? Would it be possible for one of you electrically inclined individuals to create a new one? (via some electrical supply company) It would be a help for all the other Behr owners to at least have a viable option if theirs gives out. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! Vic
  2. Hey, fellow 02ers, my new book, "Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning" just went up for sale on Amazon. The link is here: (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0998950718/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1524587969&sr=1-5). If you want to buy a personally-inscribed copy from me, you can do that at http://www.robsiegel.com/newcarstuff.htm (and, as you'll see on my website, for another $5, I'll throw in my new singer/songwriter CD :^), but I don't yet have inventory of the new books at my house, and probably won't have until the start of May. So, since driving season is already upon us and I've had people asking me when the book will be out, it's out right freaking now on Amazon; due to the wonders of Print On Demand (POD), they can get it to you in like two days. I will also have the book available at The Vintage, and at Oktoberfest where I will be giving an a/c talk (https://ofest.bmwcca.org/events/rob-siegel-air-conditioning-talk/). In writing the book, I tried to strike a balance between providing as much BMW-specific a/c information as possible while not making it entirely a BMW-specific (or 2002-specific) book. We all know that there's no way I could ever write a book that has more 2002-specific a/c info than can be found here on the FAQ, as this remains the brain trust. But, having done the a/c on several 02s, I did try and capture the important 02-specific things in the book. This includes: --Information about why you want to get rid of that boat anchor York compressor and its bracket, and why what you want is a Sanden 508 and the "hobiedave" bracket (though there's certainly more info on the FAQ). --Info about how I had to cut the plastic injection belt cover and rout out the lower timing cover to get the Sanden compressor and Hobiedave bracket to work on my tii (I did a long post on it here on the FAQ as well). --Some info reproduced from the original Behr installation guide, including the firewall hole-drilling template (you can also find this online if you look). --Info about the largest condenser you can fit, both with and without cutting the horn supports (again, there's probably more info about this here on the FAQ if you search for it). --Photos and comparisons of the Behr, Frigiking, and Clardy evaporator assemblies. I'm not aware of any place other than the book where these photos and this discussion exists, and thanks so much to FAQers Chris Roberts, Earl Meyers, and Clyde Gates for these pics (and Gary York, Adam Merchant, Steve Jones, and Layne Wylie for others). --I refer to the existence of the ICE AC and Dtech systems without taking a side on them. My personal opinion, which I explain in the book, is that in a car whose value is appreciating, most owners will be well-served by using an original evaporator assembly, updating the compressor to a compact rotary style unit, upgrading the condenser to the largest parallel-flow unit that'll fit in the nose, putting a fan large enough to suck a duck off the sidewalk on it, and making new hoses. That recipe is really underlying mantra of the book. I also include several sections on case studies in rejuvenation and full-on retrofit in which I cover what I did in my '72tii, 3.0CSi, Bavaria, Euro 635CSi, and other cars. But in addition to the 2002 and BMW-specific content, the real value of the book is that it is the only book out there specific to the a/c needs of a vintage car. It tells you everything, soup to nuts, you need to know to resurrect the a/c in a long-dead car. That includes chapters on theory, tools, refrigerants, oils, legality, fittings, the recipe for R134a conversion and why from a practical standpoint it's little different from resurrection, compressors, evaporator assemblies, expansion valves versus orifice tubes, receiver/driers versus accumulators, condensers, auxiliary fans, making hoses, flushing, pressure-testing with nitrogen, leak detection, evacuation, recharging, troubleshooting... everything. Thanks. End of commercial. Stay cool. Yours in totally not being an R75/2 guy... --Rob (PS If you like the book, please consider posting a review on Amazon. Thanks!)
  3. Complete Clardy 1980 system. "working when pulled" in 2017 due to radiator upgrade vs. compressor mount conflict. Blower assembly with wiring and controls, center fascia with vents and side panels with vents (panels mount to existing stock center panel – my side panels were cut by installer to fit Clardy side pcs. shown in "center fascia" photo below) Compressor with belt, mounting bracket with (most) hardware, Clardy dryer, evaporator, cooling fan, relay for fan. (Hoses included for “reference”. I had to cut one hose off compressor and one off dryer as fittings were seized up initially) I'm attending the Vintage and will delivery everything if I have a committed buyer. Otherwise local pick-up 17603, not shipping danke.
  4. Looking for a Behr unit to build the AC system. Already have a rotary compressor, mount and pulley.
  5. Howdy all - Sputter's AC runs plenty cold, but can only really do COOOOLD and OFF, since the rheostat on the left is purely ornamental at this point. The guys at Pelican Parts told me that some folks had luck using a 320i rheostat, though it requires some experimentation on the wiring. Three questions: Have you done this? Does it work well? Do you remember how you wired it? Current setup: Behr on the inside Sandin on the outside TIA
  6. First off I would like to give Boyd Moterwerks the largest shout out ever. Excellent shop, knows 2002's really well. Have been instrumental in the recovery from one of the worlds worst restorations ever. Part of the revamp included an AC overhaul. Even after Boyd's excellent handiwork, the console still doesn't sit perfectly straight but not a critical issue. But more of my concern is the residual bodged plumbing and wiring work of the prior charlatans. Eric at Boyd's had to do some real detective work to figure out and fix what they did wrong and it works, but still blows a bit warmer than the old R12 unit. I will try and summarize without turning this into a novel. One issue: IE Radiator is too big. Mechanical fan removed and the Bodge boys decided that the small fan I purchased for the AC condenser would do the work of both.......😠. So it is hooked to a thermostat. they also could not figure out the wiring for the Behr switch that turns off the heater when the AC is turned on. It also was working perfectly when I dropped the car off. But now that part is impossible to find. So the "Fix" was to add a stupid toggle switch that looks like it belongs in a a B17 bomber to turn on the condenser fan if I needed it for cooling things down (car and ac?) and trashed the original console. But now driving it for a bit, it seems like the switch may turn on the condenser fan and the Sanden clone AC compressor... I get a drop in idle when I hit that switch like the compressor has kicked in. So bottom line: I need someone that knows the Behr AC setup well enough to make this right. (if possible) Any referral would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  7. For those of you looking for alternatives to Behr and Frigiking evaporators (and especially if you want a keep the stock center console), I present this as an option. I don't know if I'm the first person to install this, but it certainly hasn't been documented on the FAQ yet. Here's what it looks like installed in my car. Now onto the details. Here's the evaporator/blower unit I used. It's small and has pretty good air output. I haven't actually compared its cooling abilities to a Behr or Frigiking unit, but it makes Atlanta summers much more bearable. The installation is fairly straightforward. My car came to me with a non-working Frigiking unit, so it had holes in the firewall behind the center console. If I were starting from scratch, I would have moved the holes over to the passenger side a bit, but it still works just fine as is. Here are the basic steps to install this: 1) Remove glovebox. You won't need the glovebox tray or latch, but you will need to keep the padded front cover plate. 2) Lift up the dash to expose the sheet metal frame below. The top of the A/C unit has two threaded rods that are used for mounting. Position the unit where you want it and then mark the two hole locations on the underside of the sheetmetal. My recommendation is to position it as close to the firewall as possible so that you leave enough clearance for the cover plate to be reinstalled. 3) Drill the two holes. I have a two piece dash, and the holes ended up just behind where the bottom piece ends. 4) Put foam rubber strips on the top of the A/C unit to prevent any rattling. Because it's mounted directly to the sheet metal, leaving it un-cushioned would probably lead to lots of rattles and buzzing. 5) Two mounting points aren't sufficient to hold it securely, so I bent some aluminum bar stock and drilled holes in the end. I then attached one end to the back of the A/C unit and the other end to the sheet metal. 6) Next you'll need to drill a hole in the firewall for the drain tube. In my opinion, the single small drain tube can't keep up with the amount of condensation this produces - after extended use, I can hear water sloshing around in there. It's a problem when the unit is mounted flat (parallel to the road). To help it drain more easily, the unit needs to be tilted a few degrees so that the drain hole is at the lowest point. I did this by bending the aluminum bar stock at the back. 7) At this point, you can hook up the A/C lines and wire it up. If I were to do it again, after I got the unit dry fit, I would remove it to put on the lines. They're hard to access once this thing is in place. A note on the fan switch: My car had a manual choke that was useless after I changed carbs, so I used that hole next to the steering wheel to mount the switch. Looks stock. 8) After you've tested everything, you can reinstall the dash. 9) The final step is to modify the padded cover panel you removed from the glovebox. The construction of that part is interesting. There's a sheet metal internal frame surrounded by foam, then skinned with vinyl. I had to cut both the foam and the metal frame (from the inside) to get it to fit over the A/C unit. This step took a lot of time and test fitting, but once done, it looks mostly stock. I bent some steel brackets and attached some magnets to them, then screwed those into the metal frame. I couldn't get a good photo, but the brackets slide into the sheet metal frame under the dash. To install the cover plate, you kind of lift it up into position, then pull toward the rear of the car. It wedges into place nicely, and is very secure. That's pretty much it! I'll add some more photos of the completed install so you get a better idea of how the parts fit with the defrost hose and center console. To direct air to the driver side, I added some flexible hose and angled them. Not a good long term solution, but it works for now. I would love to create some sort of angled flap system in the three outlets. Hope this helps inspire others to come up with their own solutions! I'm happy to answer any questions, or take more photos.
  8. Location: : Bozeman MT SOLD - PM me about any parts in the photo you're interested in. (Sorry the block and crankshaft just sold) I can send close-up photos if you want to see more detail. The Victor Reinz gasket is still new in package. I recall some of the parts are A/C specific and hard to find, but I couldn't find diagrams on RealOem to identify them. If you're in need them, you'll know better than I do. The 3 pistons are piano tops. Not sure of their condition, but they look good to my naked eye.
  9. I'm sure this has been done before, but I wanted to see if anyone has any photos or advice. I'd like to add air conditioning to my '75 to deal with these Atlanta summers, but all of the aftermarket center consoles look, well, aftermarket. I want to keep the stock look, so that would mean hiding the evaporator in the engine bay and routing some vent tubing to direct the air into the cabin somewhere. Is there a reason I shouldn't do this? Does the engine bay get too hot? Maybe the glovebox is a better option? Those with experience please chime in, I'm new to the A/C game.
  10. I suppose it only makes sense: as '02 prices appear to skyrocket, so do parts prices. Less than a year ago, an Aussie fellow re-listed an NOS Behr A/C faceplate on U.S. eBay 4 or 5 times. He received not a single bid at his $200 opening price, shipping included (he also offered a $400 Buy It Now, which seemed laughable since no one would offer $200). He eventually withdrew the faceplate. Now we have a used example of the same faceplate for $372 plus shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261820625782?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It's time to re-think that restoration budget! Regards, Steve
  11. Does anyone know if European Cooler Air is still in business? They are (or were) located in Rockwall, TX, and made air conditioning kits for our 2002s. The console looked like a cross between a Behr and Frigiking, and was designed to work either with R12 or R134 refrigerant. Or does anyone know of another company who is currently making an A/C kit for 2002s? TIA mike
  12. Does anyone know if European Cooler Air is still in business? They are (or were) located in Rockwall, TX, and made air conditioning kits for our 2002s as well as other older imports. The '02 console looked like a cross between a Behr and Frigiking, and the unit was designed to work either with R12 or R134 refrigerant. Or does anyone know of another company who is currently making an A/C kit for 2002s? TIA mike
  13. Complete Console as shown - Please contact by [email protected] or text 858-208-8449 $300 plus actual shipping cost
  14. Relative NOOB with 2002's so forgive me, but I thought I'd post my day long adventure trying to install the excellent new Wallot & Nesch high capacity radiator in place of a 1997 BEHR 320i radiator with "crimped" lower hose. It turns out you need a 320i radiator with the lower radiator port facing passenger side (vs. normal rear exit on 2002 radiator) because it needs to clear the air conditioning compressor pulley. I got my 02 several months ago from a local CCA member after patiently waiting 5+ years for him to sell it. I noticed the lower radiator hose exited to the pass. side and was crimped nearly in half. I decided to replace it with the W&N radiator along with new HEPU water pump. Due to the 2002 lower radiator port exiting to rear, I had to drop the A/C compressor down as low as it would go and remove the A/C drive belt as the lower hose was still touching the pulley with new radiator installed. (not sure if any custom brackets will help with clearance) Not too concerned about lack of A/C living in SE Pennsylvania (and Vintage is in May vs. August) so I'll see how the comfort level is in one year. That's what the quarter lite windows are for..... Removed a "Worldpac" brand water pump which had been seeping at the mechanical seal intermittently. Not sure who installed that or what part of the world it came from. Had a slight bit of side play in the bearing shaft so glad I replaced it too. Looks like the IE aluminum radiator might have worked with the lower port pointing upwards but "out of stock". First pic is looking up from below at A/C pully brushing against lower radiator hose. 2nd is 320i Behr radiator with crimped lower hose. 3rd is final install shot.
  15. I have just received a new batch of A/C brackets (hobiedave brackets). If you have not contacted me in the past please do so now before I run out. The bracket fits the M10 engine to add a rotary compressor bracket for air conditioning. The bracket cost $107.50 that includes shipping to the lower 48. I can ship to other countries and I have done so in the past. thanks for your interest. please contact me at dave.hobiedave at gmail.com thanks Dave
  16. Hello, I am in the process of restoring my car, and would like to resurrect its Behr AC unit. I have the head unit (needs rebuilding), but the PO dumped the rest of the components. Specifically, I'm looking for hoses, condenser, Senden compressor, and dryer. PM me the part(s) you have and your asking price to include shipping to Maryland 20769. Thanks! Marc
  17. I'm looking for some advice on whether I should try to rebuild a frigiking A/C unit or install a newer underdash aftermarket unit in my 76 2002. The frigiking unit looks pretty beat up. It was not working when I got the car a year ago so I pulled it out of the car. It is also missing some knobs and has some cracks. I'm not concerned about having a period correct A/C unit. I would like to have an A/C unit that works since I live in the desert and I'm wondering if anyone has experience using something newer and smaller than the frigiking. I also am wondering about the installation and if it would be easier to rebuild the frigiking since it was already in the car or go with a newer underdash unit and how difficult that would be to install all the components that go along with the actual A/C unit. Thanks, Roberto
  18. Price:: 15 Location: : Mobile, AL As shown in pics. Serviceable condition, some exterior vinyl cracking around screw holes as shown. Shipping not included. Not for sale to BLUNT. Cheers,
  19. I need to wrap the air conditioning hoses (a/c) that run from the compressor to the firewall to protect them from the heat of the exhaust manifold. Can anyone suggest an appropriate material & the source for that material? (Yes, I searched first. ) Thanks! Bob
  20. Not as ugly as this one, please.... They're about 6" x 2" May entertain console parts also! Rear view: Cheers,
  21. The decals are finally ready and I would like to post the installation guide(s) for all three (3) options: 1) BEHR A/C (stencil) 2) Shift pattern (decal) 3) Instrument lettering (stencil) For purchasing info, please visit the classifieds section: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/174999-behr-ac-dash-lettering-shift-patterns/ The steps are straightforward & I hope this will serve as the definitive reference thread for all who have expressed interest. Best wishes, Mo Faraz
  22. I have created a new series of decals/stencils for interested owners. You may reference the installation guide here: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/175000-decalsstencils-installation-guide/ Each stencil costs $16/shipped worldwide. Each 4 speed (special) shift pattern decal costs $10/shipped worldwide. The price for any second set of decal or stencil is an additional $10. My Paypal is mofaraz [at] uw [dot] edu Please include your preferred shipping address & the type of decal/stencil you would like to purchase. You will receive from me: 1) Payment confirmation 2) Shipping confirmation with USPS tracking # Please pm me or post a reply if you have any questions & I will get back to you. Thanks for looking, Mo Faraz Instruments stencil kit: $20/shipped A/C Stencil kit: $20/shipped Special shift pattern decal: $18/shipped
  23. $60 + actual shipping - Alternator (for a early 70's Bravera, 3.0 CS or early M6) Just rebuilt 6 months ago and it works just fine. It is the wrong one for my 2002 tii and it doesn't have internal rubber mounts that the tii's have/need. It is in great shape. TAKEN - Clardy A/C Blower unit. What you see is what you get, no metal dash bracket, no compressor. When I pulled this out of my car the blower fan worked great. I can try and answer any questions you have Also I am open to trades too Let me know what you have. Thanks for looking Nick
  24. Frigiking A/C unit. Includes evaporator, blower, knobs, and all trim pieces. Only cosmetic issue is the bottom right corner of the front panel broke off. Looks like the previous owner taped it back together. Easy to fix properly with glue. $250 plus shipping from Atlanta. FedEx will be pretty expensive since it requires a large box, or I could ship with Amtrak.
  25. I purchased this car last month from owner of 12 years to remove the 5-speed and driveshaft to trade out with the 4-speed from my tii resto. Figured I could tool around in until my restoration is complete. After receiving the car and driving it and seeing how original and clean it is; I just couldn't do it. Made it easier when I was able to find a 5-speed here on the FAQ. I purchase in Maryland from a very nice older man; where it was stored in a garage and well taken care of. The car is originally from California and the owner mentioned the engine was a factory replacement but I found a notebook of all repairs and it lists a low mile (55,000) tii motor being installed in car with a carb set up instead of fuel injection. The Pastellblau paint is nice on the car except the hood, will polish up very nice. The Sunroof needs some adjustment, I was able to open and lube up but still won't move with crank. Here is what he lists in his ad about the car. It has some nice enhancements: BMW 2002 tii engine - factory replacement with very low miles (reported to be less than 5000 - I've driven less than 50 miles); BMW 5 speed manual transmission from a BMW E21 320i with short shifter kit - very nice feel BMW E30 325 Lemmerz wheels in basketweave pattern with proper offset ET30 with 4 original BBS center caps (plus 1 spare with no cap); Original Behr radiator upgraded from a BMW 320i; Stahl headers and Ansa exhaust; Has A/C but not used; I think everything is there to get working. Mileage on the chassis is estimated to be about 129,000 (odometer has stopped at 110,992). The interior is in good condition with older style BMW 2002 steering wheel and aftermarket Flofit seats in good shape with no rips but 2 small burn like circles on the upper back left side of the driver side. The dash is in excellent condition with no major cracks (a couple of small splits at the base where the dash rises to fit the instrument speedometer cluster). It starts and drives and stops and all lights work inside and outside. The picture of the engine compartment was taken when it was running - no smoke visible. The Stahl long headers to Ansa free flow exhaust sounds good and noticeable. The radiator and cooling system were flushed in the spring and oil was changed. It was repainted 15 years ago and looks decent (hood paint has dulled and appears to have been replaced, not original as you can see green paint). The hood has rust along the edges on the underside by hinges but does not affect opening and closing or is noticeable from outside . The trunk floor and shock towers are solid with no rust. The seat floor pans are decent with very small rust on the passenger front one. The front windshield needs the lockstrip (included) installed. Windows roll up and down. The driver side inside door panel is loose from the door and just needs new fittings. Tires hold air but are old and should be replaced. I noticed after receiving that the exhaust rattles against the frame as the muffler rubber brackets have broken. I wired up temporarily until I can get to a muffler shop. As is always the problem here in Southern California; I cannot provide a SMOG certificate so it will be sold as a PARTS Car if purchased by someone here and the clean Maryland title provided. I will take better pictures of the car tomorrow. Call/Text at 858-208-8449 or email [email protected]

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