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Found 35 results

  1. Howdy all - Sputter's AC runs plenty cold, but can only really do COOOOLD and OFF, since the rheostat on the left is purely ornamental at this point. The guys at Pelican Parts told me that some folks had luck using a 320i rheostat, though it requires some experimentation on the wiring. Three questions: Have you done this? Does it work well? Do you remember how you wired it? Current setup: Behr on the inside Sandin on the outside TIA
  2. It looks like there is some issue with my blower switch on my Behr AC. My AC is going through a complete overhaul with parallel condenser, sanden compressor, hobie dave bracket etc. Apparently my blower switch has croaked. I have posted on WTB looking for a replacement. Beginning to think I may be up the creek. So, without having to scrap my overhaul which included a heater box refurb etc. What the hell do I do If I cannot find that goofball 4 terminal switch? Would it be possible for one of you electrically inclined individuals to create a new one? (via some electrical supply company) It would be a help for all the other Behr owners to at least have a viable option if theirs gives out. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! Vic
  3. Complete Console as shown - Please contact by [email protected] or text 858-208-8449 $300 plus actual shipping cost
  4. I purchased this car last month from owner of 12 years to remove the 5-speed and driveshaft to trade out with the 4-speed from my tii resto. Figured I could tool around in until my restoration is complete. After receiving the car and driving it and seeing how original and clean it is; I just couldn't do it. Made it easier when I was able to find a 5-speed here on the FAQ. I purchase in Maryland from a very nice older man; where it was stored in a garage and well taken care of. The car is originally from California and the owner mentioned the engine was a factory replacement but I found a notebook of all repairs and it lists a low mile (55,000) tii motor being installed in car with a carb set up instead of fuel injection. The Pastellblau paint is nice on the car except the hood, will polish up very nice. The Sunroof needs some adjustment, I was able to open and lube up but still won't move with crank. Here is what he lists in his ad about the car. It has some nice enhancements: BMW 2002 tii engine - factory replacement with very low miles (reported to be less than 5000 - I've driven less than 50 miles); BMW 5 speed manual transmission from a BMW E21 320i with short shifter kit - very nice feel BMW E30 325 Lemmerz wheels in basketweave pattern with proper offset ET30 with 4 original BBS center caps (plus 1 spare with no cap); Original Behr radiator upgraded from a BMW 320i; Stahl headers and Ansa exhaust; Has A/C but not used; I think everything is there to get working. Mileage on the chassis is estimated to be about 129,000 (odometer has stopped at 110,992). The interior is in good condition with older style BMW 2002 steering wheel and aftermarket Flofit seats in good shape with no rips but 2 small burn like circles on the upper back left side of the driver side. The dash is in excellent condition with no major cracks (a couple of small splits at the base where the dash rises to fit the instrument speedometer cluster). It starts and drives and stops and all lights work inside and outside. The picture of the engine compartment was taken when it was running - no smoke visible. The Stahl long headers to Ansa free flow exhaust sounds good and noticeable. The radiator and cooling system were flushed in the spring and oil was changed. It was repainted 15 years ago and looks decent (hood paint has dulled and appears to have been replaced, not original as you can see green paint). The hood has rust along the edges on the underside by hinges but does not affect opening and closing or is noticeable from outside . The trunk floor and shock towers are solid with no rust. The seat floor pans are decent with very small rust on the passenger front one. The front windshield needs the lockstrip (included) installed. Windows roll up and down. The driver side inside door panel is loose from the door and just needs new fittings. Tires hold air but are old and should be replaced. I noticed after receiving that the exhaust rattles against the frame as the muffler rubber brackets have broken. I wired up temporarily until I can get to a muffler shop. As is always the problem here in Southern California; I cannot provide a SMOG certificate so it will be sold as a PARTS Car if purchased by someone here and the clean Maryland title provided. I will take better pictures of the car tomorrow. Call/Text at 858-208-8449 or email [email protected]
  5. Looking for a Behr unit to build the AC system. Already have a rotary compressor, mount and pulley.
  6. Hey, fellow 02ers, my new book, "Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning" just went up for sale on Amazon. The link is here: (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0998950718/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1524587969&sr=1-5). If you want to buy a personally-inscribed copy from me, you can do that at http://www.robsiegel.com/newcarstuff.htm (and, as you'll see on my website, for another $5, I'll throw in my new singer/songwriter CD :^), but I don't yet have inventory of the new books at my house, and probably won't have until the start of May. So, since driving season is already upon us and I've had people asking me when the book will be out, it's out right freaking now on Amazon; due to the wonders of Print On Demand (POD), they can get it to you in like two days. I will also have the book available at The Vintage, and at Oktoberfest where I will be giving an a/c talk (https://ofest.bmwcca.org/events/rob-siegel-air-conditioning-talk/). In writing the book, I tried to strike a balance between providing as much BMW-specific a/c information as possible while not making it entirely a BMW-specific (or 2002-specific) book. We all know that there's no way I could ever write a book that has more 2002-specific a/c info than can be found here on the FAQ, as this remains the brain trust. But, having done the a/c on several 02s, I did try and capture the important 02-specific things in the book. This includes: --Information about why you want to get rid of that boat anchor York compressor and its bracket, and why what you want is a Sanden 508 and the "hobiedave" bracket (though there's certainly more info on the FAQ). --Info about how I had to cut the plastic injection belt cover and rout out the lower timing cover to get the Sanden compressor and Hobiedave bracket to work on my tii (I did a long post on it here on the FAQ as well). --Some info reproduced from the original Behr installation guide, including the firewall hole-drilling template (you can also find this online if you look). --Info about the largest condenser you can fit, both with and without cutting the horn supports (again, there's probably more info about this here on the FAQ if you search for it). --Photos and comparisons of the Behr, Frigiking, and Clardy evaporator assemblies. I'm not aware of any place other than the book where these photos and this discussion exists, and thanks so much to FAQers Chris Roberts, Earl Meyers, and Clyde Gates for these pics (and Gary York, Adam Merchant, Steve Jones, and Layne Wylie for others). --I refer to the existence of the ICE AC and Dtech systems without taking a side on them. My personal opinion, which I explain in the book, is that in a car whose value is appreciating, most owners will be well-served by using an original evaporator assembly, updating the compressor to a compact rotary style unit, upgrading the condenser to the largest parallel-flow unit that'll fit in the nose, putting a fan large enough to suck a duck off the sidewalk on it, and making new hoses. That recipe is really underlying mantra of the book. I also include several sections on case studies in rejuvenation and full-on retrofit in which I cover what I did in my '72tii, 3.0CSi, Bavaria, Euro 635CSi, and other cars. But in addition to the 2002 and BMW-specific content, the real value of the book is that it is the only book out there specific to the a/c needs of a vintage car. It tells you everything, soup to nuts, you need to know to resurrect the a/c in a long-dead car. That includes chapters on theory, tools, refrigerants, oils, legality, fittings, the recipe for R134a conversion and why from a practical standpoint it's little different from resurrection, compressors, evaporator assemblies, expansion valves versus orifice tubes, receiver/driers versus accumulators, condensers, auxiliary fans, making hoses, flushing, pressure-testing with nitrogen, leak detection, evacuation, recharging, troubleshooting... everything. Thanks. End of commercial. Stay cool. Yours in totally not being an R75/2 guy... --Rob (PS If you like the book, please consider posting a review on Amazon. Thanks!)
  7. Complete Clardy 1980 system. "working when pulled" in 2017 due to radiator upgrade vs. compressor mount conflict. Blower assembly with wiring and controls, center fascia with vents and side panels with vents (panels mount to existing stock center panel – my side panels were cut by installer to fit Clardy side pcs. shown in "center fascia" photo below) Compressor with belt, mounting bracket with (most) hardware, Clardy dryer, evaporator, cooling fan, relay for fan. (Hoses included for “reference”. I had to cut one hose off compressor and one off dryer as fittings were seized up initially) I'm attending the Vintage and will delivery everything if I have a committed buyer. Otherwise local pick-up 17603, not shipping danke.
  8. Hey, so a friend of mine has sold off his auto junk yard after 45 years. he is getting rid of a lot of parts. one guy was there on his third trip and all he is taking is British stuff, don't ask me why. maybe he likes warm beer too. anyway i am rounding up just 2002 stuff and bring it home to the warehouse building. 2002's were some of his best selling stuff back in his hay day. at one point he employed 18 people. now he is lucky if he gets one call a day for any kind of parts. so he gives me a holler and hauls this out and now the only marking on the entire unit. and now a full view. so for all you old timers, does anyone have a guess as to who made this. as for the unit i like it because it really is not wider than a standard console except for the bump outs. i will be opening it up to investigate the guts in the next few days. sorry about the picture orientation. thanks, stone
  9. Does anyone know if European Cooler Air is still in business? They are (or were) located in Rockwall, TX, and made air conditioning kits for our 2002s. The console looked like a cross between a Behr and Frigiking, and was designed to work either with R12 or R134 refrigerant. Or does anyone know of another company who is currently making an A/C kit for 2002s? TIA mike
  10. Does anyone know if European Cooler Air is still in business? They are (or were) located in Rockwall, TX, and made air conditioning kits for our 2002s as well as other older imports. The '02 console looked like a cross between a Behr and Frigiking, and the unit was designed to work either with R12 or R134 refrigerant. Or does anyone know of another company who is currently making an A/C kit for 2002s? TIA mike
  11. I'm sure this has been done before, but I wanted to see if anyone has any photos or advice. I'd like to add air conditioning to my '75 to deal with these Atlanta summers, but all of the aftermarket center consoles look, well, aftermarket. I want to keep the stock look, so that would mean hiding the evaporator in the engine bay and routing some vent tubing to direct the air into the cabin somewhere. Is there a reason I shouldn't do this? Does the engine bay get too hot? Maybe the glovebox is a better option? Those with experience please chime in, I'm new to the A/C game.
  12. Location: : Bozeman MT SOLD - PM me about any parts in the photo you're interested in. (Sorry the block and crankshaft just sold) I can send close-up photos if you want to see more detail. The Victor Reinz gasket is still new in package. I recall some of the parts are A/C specific and hard to find, but I couldn't find diagrams on RealOem to identify them. If you're in need them, you'll know better than I do. The 3 pistons are piano tops. Not sure of their condition, but they look good to my naked eye.
  13. Hello, I am in the process of restoring my car, and would like to resurrect its Behr AC unit. I have the head unit (needs rebuilding), but the PO dumped the rest of the components. Specifically, I'm looking for hoses, condenser, Senden compressor, and dryer. PM me the part(s) you have and your asking price to include shipping to Maryland 20769. Thanks! Marc
  14. I suppose it only makes sense: as '02 prices appear to skyrocket, so do parts prices. Less than a year ago, an Aussie fellow re-listed an NOS Behr A/C faceplate on U.S. eBay 4 or 5 times. He received not a single bid at his $200 opening price, shipping included (he also offered a $400 Buy It Now, which seemed laughable since no one would offer $200). He eventually withdrew the faceplate. Now we have a used example of the same faceplate for $372 plus shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261820625782?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It's time to re-think that restoration budget! Regards, Steve
  15. Hi all, I'm getting ready to install A/C on my '75 and I need to replace the expansion valve on my Frigiking evaporator. Does anyone know where to get a new valve? I've looked at a few other topics on this but can't find any definitive answers, just the advice to get a new one. Here are some photos: This this one from Nostalgic A/C looks close - will it work? http://nostalgicac.com/driers-valves/expansion-valves/oring-expansion-valve.html thanks, Garrett
  16. Price:: 1000 Location: : Boulder, CO Edit: System is sold! I have a complete Behr A/C system that I just removed from my '72 2002. The system was 100% operational and blowing cold when I removed it from the car. Includes the following: 1. Center console unit with both control knobs, hazard switch, ash tray, and side panels. 2. Compressor, compressor bracket for M10, belt and tensioner for compressor. (bracket and tensioner/belt are not pictured but are included) 3. Condensor/fan unit. 4. All wiring and relays needed for installation. 5. All hoses needed for installation. 6. 95% of the hardware needed, except for the few nuts/washers that invariably get dropped and roll under the toolbox every time I work on the car. This is as complete a system as you will find. Condition is as pictured. Clean it up, install, and go! Will ship at buyer's expense if necessary.
  17. Anybody have an A/C Line Crimp tool? I'd hate to drop $150 on something for a 1 time use. (As if I don't have enough specialty tools already!) http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-71550-Conditioner-Hose-Crimper/dp/B000WBQ4U2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SF52J96CCB8MJD2BA1Z
  18. my winter project is to fix the heater fan which doesn't spin. That means removing the heater box. The problem is that the car ('72 2002) has AC, so unless I'm mistaken, I need to remove the AC unit from the console before I can get to the heater box and remove that. Does anyone have experience removing the AC from the console - can I just undo the hoses at the compressor end of the system and just pull it out? (I have already disconnected all the switches, etc, its just plumbing from here on) The AC hasn't worked in a while (so the previous owner told me), so can I assume that the system is dry and there won't be some environmental consequence when I loosen those hose clamps? Any advice would be appreciated! Kenny
  19. Price:: 15 Location: : Mobile, AL As shown in pics. Serviceable condition, some exterior vinyl cracking around screw holes as shown. Shipping not included. Not for sale to BLUNT. Cheers,
  20. I need to wrap the air conditioning hoses (a/c) that run from the compressor to the firewall to protect them from the heat of the exhaust manifold. Can anyone suggest an appropriate material & the source for that material? (Yes, I searched first. ) Thanks! Bob
  21. Not as ugly as this one, please.... They're about 6" x 2" May entertain console parts also! Rear view: Cheers,
  22. Relative NOOB with 2002's so forgive me, but I thought I'd post my day long adventure trying to install the excellent new Wallot & Nesch high capacity radiator in place of a 1997 BEHR 320i radiator with "crimped" lower hose. It turns out you need a 320i radiator with the lower radiator port facing passenger side (vs. normal rear exit on 2002 radiator) because it needs to clear the air conditioning compressor pulley. I got my 02 several months ago from a local CCA member after patiently waiting 5+ years for him to sell it. I noticed the lower radiator hose exited to the pass. side and was crimped nearly in half. I decided to replace it with the W&N radiator along with new HEPU water pump. Due to the 2002 lower radiator port exiting to rear, I had to drop the A/C compressor down as low as it would go and remove the A/C drive belt as the lower hose was still touching the pulley with new radiator installed. (not sure if any custom brackets will help with clearance) Not too concerned about lack of A/C living in SE Pennsylvania (and Vintage is in May vs. August) so I'll see how the comfort level is in one year. That's what the quarter lite windows are for..... Removed a "Worldpac" brand water pump which had been seeping at the mechanical seal intermittently. Not sure who installed that or what part of the world it came from. Had a slight bit of side play in the bearing shaft so glad I replaced it too. Looks like the IE aluminum radiator might have worked with the lower port pointing upwards but "out of stock". First pic is looking up from below at A/C pully brushing against lower radiator hose. 2nd is 320i Behr radiator with crimped lower hose. 3rd is final install shot.
  23. I have just received a new batch of A/C brackets (hobiedave brackets). If you have not contacted me in the past please do so now before I run out. The bracket fits the M10 engine to add a rotary compressor bracket for air conditioning. The bracket cost $107.50 that includes shipping to the lower 48. I can ship to other countries and I have done so in the past. thanks for your interest. please contact me at dave.hobiedave at gmail.com thanks Dave
  24. The decals are finally ready and I would like to post the installation guide(s) for all three (3) options: 1) BEHR A/C (stencil) 2) Shift pattern (decal) 3) Instrument lettering (stencil) For purchasing info, please visit the classifieds section: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/174999-behr-ac-dash-lettering-shift-patterns/ The steps are straightforward & I hope this will serve as the definitive reference thread for all who have expressed interest. Best wishes, Mo Faraz
  25. I have created a new series of decals/stencils for interested owners. You may reference the installation guide here: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/175000-decalsstencils-installation-guide/ Each stencil costs $16/shipped worldwide. Each 4 speed (special) shift pattern decal costs $10/shipped worldwide. The price for any second set of decal or stencil is an additional $10. My Paypal is mofaraz [at] uw [dot] edu Please include your preferred shipping address & the type of decal/stencil you would like to purchase. You will receive from me: 1) Payment confirmation 2) Shipping confirmation with USPS tracking # Please pm me or post a reply if you have any questions & I will get back to you. Thanks for looking, Mo Faraz Instruments stencil kit: $20/shipped A/C Stencil kit: $20/shipped Special shift pattern decal: $18/shipped

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