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Found 29 results

  1. So I have recently been working on my white 1973 2002tii (i should probably change my name soon), I live in the valley just north of LA, specifically Sherman Oaks so it gets even hotter here than LA sometimes if that reference is needed. I have been wondering: What is more like hell on earth? going through the process of taking AC from a donor car, converting the refrigerant type, possibly repairing parts, and putting it in my car (mostly done by me, myself, and I)... or just not having AC, accepting that it will get hot and use my white car with a blue interior to its light color advantage along with a windshield shade? Cost isn't much of a factor here as I already have the donor car with the AC. Thanks for the advice!
  2. Not sure of functionality. Fan shaft spins freely but with a bit of squeaking. $25 + shipping anywhere in the states. Thanks!
  3. For sale is a Bher AC center console unit from a '76 late production run 2002, VIN 2744488. I'm not sure of the functionality of the unit. The fans within the unit have never moved but are not seized. Both switches pictured are not for sale. I'm asking $200 shipped within the continental US from 30269. Local pickup within the Atlanta perimeter and it's yours for $150. Not included in the above price is the Bher face plate. Cosmetically in 7/10 condition, but all mounting holes are stripped or broken as pictured. Purchase it with the AC unit and I'll ask for $10, without, $40 shipped to the continental US from 30269. Shift boot and mounting plate are not included, just the face plate. Please refer to photos for more details or ask me the same. Thanks for looking! EDIT: Face plate sold. AC Unit still for sale.
  4. Steeletj

    Free

    I have little to no storage space so these bits and bobs need to go to someone who can use them or at least tuck them away. I removed the air condintioning system this summer. All the parts are there I believe. I have the console as well, but would need a replacement to let it go. Free for pick up. Tim
  5. It looks like there is some issue with my blower switch on my Behr AC. My AC is going through a complete overhaul with parallel condenser, sanden compressor, hobie dave bracket etc. Apparently my blower switch has croaked. I have posted on WTB looking for a replacement. Beginning to think I may be up the creek. So, without having to scrap my overhaul which included a heater box refurb etc. What the hell do I do If I cannot find that goofball 4 terminal switch? Would it be possible for one of you electrically inclined individuals to create a new one? (via some electrical supply company) It would be a help for all the other Behr owners to at least have a viable option if theirs gives out. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! Vic
  6. Having recently completed my air conditioning system, i thought i would layout what it takes to install your own modern air conditioning system. Air conditioning is one of those mysterious things that everyone is afraid of when in actuality its not much more complicated that the coolant system on an M10. There is a liquid that gets pumped around a sealed system and as it expands it cools and then we compress it again through the compressor, lower its temperature though the condenser and then repeat the process. A basic air conditioning system is made up of the following components. Evaporator (The unit that mounts in the vehicle and has your AC controls and vents) Compressor and mounting bracket Condenser (The radiator that mounts at the front of the car in the engine bay) Electric push fan Hoses and dryer I will discuss what you need to know about each component: EVAPORATOR This is going to be the toughest component to track down because you cannot buy a new unit. 2002 did not come with air conditioning from factory and so you have to track down an aftermarket unit from the 70's that was installed into the cars by the dealer. You need to source a used Clady, Behr or Fridgeking evaporator / center console though the for sale forums. Any unit you get should be pressure tested and the expansion valve replaced. This is my Behr system. The systems all look different and different people prefer the looks of different systems. The evaporator produces a large amount of water when it operates and the evaporators have a water drain hole in the bottom. You will need to drill a hole through the top of the transmission tunnel to install a rubber drain hose so that the water doesn't flood your interior. The switches for the evaporator should be cleaned, checked for electrical function. Remember old evaporators use flare fittings. Modern hose kits are O ring kits. You will need flare to O ring adapters that are used with flare fittings in order to convert the flare fittings to O ring fittings. #6 and #10 flare adapters. https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/6-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/10-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html You can also buy copper crush washers which go into the flare adapters to help with the seal if your flare ends aren't in pristine condition. COMPRESSOR AND BRACKET We will keep this simple. The old system compressors are much larger and heavier than modern rotary style compressors. Dont even bother with an old compressor. Buy a modern Sanden 508 compressor. You can buy genuine Sanden for $250 or a chinese knockoff for $130-$150. You will need a V belt model and these can be gotten from Ebay or http://nostalgicac.com/. Very important. The Compressors must be filed with oil. There are different types of oil and some oils are compatible with old style freon (R12) and some are compatible with new style freon (R134a). Since R12 can no longer be obtained you might as well plan on using R134a freon which mean Pag or Ester oil. Compressor uses 6oz of oil after you fully drain all the shipping oil from the unit. The bracket is easy. The Clardy system came with a bracket that fits the Sanden 508 compressor but also luckily a 2002faq member is now making an excellent bracket which can be bought from hobiedave. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/82340-custom-made-ac-compressor-brackets-sold-out/?hl=hobiedave CONDENSER The condenser is simply a matter of size. The bigger the better but you need to factor in how big can you fit into the nose of the 2002 and whether or not you are willing to cut the support bars to fit a larger condenser. A 9" x 12" condenser fits perfectly with no cutting however that is definitely considered on the small size. They make 10" x 18" condensers which might just fit without cutting but i have not tested this. You will need to decide how big you want to go here. You will need to mount this to the front of the nose, there are condenser mounting straps or you can zip tie it in depending on how much drilling and modifying you want to do. FAN You will need an electric fan on a relay kit to blow air through the condenser. The fan should be sized appropriately to fit into the nose of the 2002. I used a 10 inch fan which in my opinion fit perfectly. Don't forget to power the fan directly from the battery with a relay kit since it draws a lot of amps. HOSES AND DRYER People get scared by the plumbing of the AC system, but its actually very simple. There are standard AC hose sizes and certain sizes go between certain components. You will use #10, #8 and #6 size hose in your install. The #10 runs from the evaporator to the compressor. The #8 runs from the compressor to the Condenser. The #6 runs from the condenser to the dryer and then back to the evaporator. Ebay and http://nostalgicac.com/ sell "Hose Kits" which include the hoses, connections, safety switch and the dryer. Buy a universal kit and it should have everything you need! The safety switch measures freon pressure levels and cutoff the system if levels get too high or too low. It gets wired in series with the AC controls and compressor. To make your own AC lines you will need a crimper tool. I used this one and it worked great. I also used a substance called Nyloc with all my o ring fittings. Its a type of AC sealant and you coat the O rings in it before tightening and it helps to minimize any leaks. This stuff is option but recommended. Once everything is installed you will need to have the system charged with freon by a professional AC shop. But if everything goes to plan you will have good cold AC for under $1000. EDIT: If you wish to charge the system your self, you will need a proper 3 line gauge set ($35 on ebay) and a vacuum pump ($50 on ebay) Attach the low and high pressure lines to the AC system, attach vacuum pump to yellow line and start vacuuming. Open low pressure side valve on gauge and allow pressure to drop to -30psi. Vacuum for 30 minutes to remove moisture and air from system. Close low pressure valve and remove pump. Make sure system holds negative pressure for 30 minutes to ensure no leaks. Afterwards attach a can of Freon to yellow line. Start car and turn on AC to max. Open low pressure valve and let Freon into system. Low pressure should jump up to 60 psi but then the compressor should kick on and pressure will drop down to below 20. Note that the compressor pulley always spins but only when the clutch kicks in and the center part of the pulley is spinning is Freon being pumped! System will likely need 2 cans of R134a Freon (Maybe a little more. 3 cans is too much). We want low pressure of about 30-35 psi and high pressure around 250 on a nice day. (Pressures vary by day time temperatures). Remember to close the low pressure valve when switching Freon cans. Also the gauges pressures sometimes take a while to settle so add the 2 cans and then rev the motor up and let the system cycle a bit before deciding if pressures are right or if more is needed. A system with too much Freon will not cool! More is not better!
  7. I have re-made BEHR AC lettering sets-- this is a great way to restore your console. $10/ea set including tracked shipping PayPal: [email protected] Please ask me for installation instructions (identical to shift decals)-- see picture installed Best, Mo
  8. Hello everybody, I just purchased a 73' 2002 after a 20 year hiatus. Excited to say the least, to get it dialed in and running smooth. Previous owner installed a Clardy A/C system about 2 years ago. I checked the refrigerant levels and the compressor seems to be engaging just fine. I'm completely lost when it comes to A/C. I have tried to find some threads on the topic but I'm not having any luck with diagnostics. Could anyone give me some advice on what to check or how to proceed? I didn't want to run it down to a repair shop if it was something easy that I overlooked. Much appreciated.
  9. After having to garage my car for 4 months last year due to +90' weather I decided to install A/C. I tracked down a clean Behr unit and a HobbyDave compressor bracket and then bought Rob's Guide to Vintage Air. After some research I decided I really wanted a Clardy since it pushes more Air CFM's so I decided to bite the bullet and sell my bits for $350 and put that towards a new ICEAC complete kit. I was told to figure on 25 hrs. without Project Creep, yea like that's not going to happen. So here's the story: Beautiful Kooglewerks Long console out and off to Jovis's car, don't worry I addressed that Rat's Nest of wires New Clardy Clone (http://iceautoair.com/index.html) Condenser in place Since I was used to 3 gauges and cup holders I gave Forrest a call at Kooglewerks to get his updated 2 gauge face with cupholders, because all Euro's know we Americans LOVE cup holders I added some closed cell foam in back to seal up CFM pressure leaks I also added a 6 mini flag fuse block for my basic interior options and then completely re-wired all of the things I've added over the last 4 years (7 hours project creep) The glove box was being blocked by the new console plastic so I added this 2-1/2" aluminum bracket to pull it in 3/16" With the cabin done I drilled and pulled the harness, plugged it all in and ran the A/C Blower fan without issue. It blows VERY hard, like a modern car. With that done I was ready to move to the compressor, I pulled out the ICEAC bracket to test fit and found my block had the hardpoint but it was not drilled. Drilling and tapping this in place was above my Pay Grade so I gave BluntTech a call and ordered a new Bracket from them, only hitch was the Compressor was a different style so another member was able to repurpose my mount and brand new Sanden for his A/C project (2.5 hours more creep) with some time to kill I followed Rob Siegel's guidance and machined out my lower Tii timing cover for belt clearance With all this in place now all I needed was to attach the belt, witch was designated for a Carbed car, which of course didn't fit a Tii, 2 trips to Autozone and 5 belts later I got it dialed! After that I moved up front to tackle the Condenser and Dryer, of course my Oil Cooler wasn't going to fit and the Air Horns had to be relocated. Since I was already in the nose I cleaned up more harness woes and added plugs for my driving lights (+2 hrs creep), otherwise the Condenser, Dryer and fan went in easy. I also added a new clean fan and sourced a Radiator Cowling (+1.5 hrs emails and calls) to help out All happy here I went for the Hoses now, first I tried them the ICEAC way but thought they were too close to the Tri-Y Headers so I spun the one line 180' to face forwards. A new shorter hose would be good in the future but my A/C guy is booked out for 18 days, after seeing my photo's he did offer me a job 🤩 Now with it all done and pressurized without any leaks I got a happy 51' drop in ambient air temp during road use Now just a USB charger plug and all done A/C is not for everyone but for me I can now drive to a business appointment and show up Un-Soggy
  10. I'm in the process of putting my Clardy AC back in my car which the PO ripped out everything including the wiring. I've searched and found very little information. Does anyone out there have an AC wiring diagram that might help the effort? I have a Trinary Hi/Low switch that will control the compressor and electric fan if that makes a difference. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  11. Location: : Bozeman MT SOLD - PM me about any parts in the photo you're interested in. (Sorry the block and crankshaft just sold) I can send close-up photos if you want to see more detail. The Victor Reinz gasket is still new in package. I recall some of the parts are A/C specific and hard to find, but I couldn't find diagrams on RealOem to identify them. If you're in need them, you'll know better than I do. The 3 pistons are piano tops. Not sure of their condition, but they look good to my naked eye.
  12. Year:: 1974 Make:: BMW Model:: 2002 Tii Price:: 7250.00 Location: : San Diego My brother and I have made the difficult decision to let one of our three 02 projects go. We've decided to let the 74 Tii go and keep our 69 & 72 standard Roundies. This car was disassembled with all body and paint done by its previous owner a few years ago, and there it sat with no further progress. We picked the car up with plans to put it back together stock with minor upgrades. However we have focused on our earlier cars and have left it sitting covered with no further progress. The car is a 74 Tii manufactured in July of 74. It is a matching SN's, Car, Engine, Steering Trim. The car has AC & Sunroof as well. The car is 85% complete, missing are the Tranmission and front & rear Windshields along with a few bits and pieces.. The motor has been out of the car for several years. All the Original Injection componets are here. This is great way to get a Tii at a reasonable price with body & paint done. Now you can pick how to finish the build & restoration yourself. Contact me for further details and pics. We are open to Reasonable OFFERS, NO LOW BALLS , this car needs to get to a good home, put back together to be enjoyed and loved. Please, Please SERIOUS Inquires Only. Do not send a long list of questions, ask for a parts inventory if you a NOT READY to Buy this car now. The car is available to been seen in North San Diego County Thank You for your time. Don PS I've added another pic of the right side view, due to a strange reflection that looked like possible damage.
  13. Having recently completed my air conditioning system, i thought i would layout what it takes to install your own modern air conditioning system. Air conditioning is one of those mysterious things that everyone is afraid of when in actuality its not much more complicated that the coolant system on an M10. There is a liquid that gets pumped around a sealed system and as it expands it cools and then we compress it again through the compressor, lower its temperature though the condenser and then repeat the process. A basic air conditioning system is made up of the following components. Evaporator (The unit that mounts in the vehicle and has your AC controls and vents) Compressor and mounting bracket Condenser (The radiator that mounts at the front of the car in the engine bay) Electric push fan Hoses and dryer I will discuss what you need to know about each component: EVAPORATOR This is going to be the toughest component to track down because you cannot buy a new unit. 2002 did not come with air conditioning from factory and so you have to track down an aftermarket unit from the 70's that was installed into the cars by the dealer. You need to source a used Clady, Behr or Fridgeking evaporator / center console though the for sale forums. Any unit you get should be pressure tested and the expansion valve replaced. This is my Behr system. The systems all look different and different people prefer the looks of different systems. The evaporator produces a large amount of water when it operates and the evaporators have a water drain hole in the bottom. You will need to drill a hole through the top of the transmission tunnel to install a rubber drain hose so that the water doesn't flood your interior. The switches for the evaporator should be cleaned, checked for electrical function. Remember old evaporators use flare fittings. Modern hose kits are O ring kits. You will need flare to O ring adapters that are used with flare fittings in order to convert the flare fittings to O ring fittings. #6 and #10 flare adapters. https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/6-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/10-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html You can also buy copper crush washers which go into the flare adapters to help with the seal if your flare ends aren't in pristine condition. COMPRESSOR AND BRACKET We will keep this simple. The old system compressors are much larger and heavier than modern rotary style compressors. Dont even bother with an old compressor. Buy a modern Sanden 508 compressor. You can buy genuine Sanden for $250 or a chinese knockoff for $130-$150. You will need a V belt model and these can be gotten from Ebay or http://nostalgicac.com/. Very important. The Compressors must be filed with oil. There are different types of oil and some oils are compatible with old style freon (R12) and some are compatible with new style freon (R134a). Since R12 can no longer be obtained you might as well plan on using R134a freon which mean Pag or Ester oil. Compressor uses 6oz of oil after you fully drain all the shipping oil from the unit. The bracket is easy. The Clardy system came with a bracket that fits the Sanden 508 compressor but also luckily a 2002faq member is now making an excellent bracket which can be bought from hobiedave. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/82340-custom-made-ac-compressor-brackets-sold-out/?hl=hobiedave CONDENSER The condenser is simply a matter of size. The bigger the better but you need to factor in how big can you fit into the nose of the 2002 and whether or not you are willing to cut the support bars to fit a larger condenser. A 9" x 12" condenser fits perfectly with no cutting however that is definitely considered on the small size. They make 10" x 18" condensers which might just fit without cutting but i have not tested this. You will need to decide how big you want to go here. You will need to mount this to the front of the nose, there are condenser mounting straps or you can zip tie it in depending on how much drilling and modifying you want to do. FAN You will need an electric fan on a relay kit to blow air through the condenser. The fan should be sized appropriately to fit into the nose of the 2002. I used a 10 inch fan which in my opinion fit perfectly. Don't forget to power the fan directly from the battery with a relay kit since it draws a lot of amps. HOSES AND DRYER People get scared by the plumbing of the AC system, but its actually very simple. There are standard AC hose sizes and certain sizes go between certain components. You will use #10, #8 and #6 size hose in your install. The #10 runs from the evaporator to the compressor. The #8 runs from the compressor to the Condenser. The #6 runs from the condenser to the dryer and then back to the evaporator. Ebay and http://nostalgicac.com/ sell "Hose Kits" which include the hoses, connections, safety switch and the dryer. Buy a universal kit and it should have everything you need! The safety switch measures freon pressure levels and cutoff the system if levels get too high or too low. It gets wired in series with the AC controls and compressor. To make your own AC lines you will need a crimper tool. I used this one and it worked great. I also used a substance called Nyloc with all my o ring fittings. Its a type of AC sealant and you coat the O rings in it before tightening and it helps to minimize any leaks. This stuff is option but recommended. Once everything is installed you will need to have the system charged with freon by a professional AC shop. But if everything goes to plan you will have good cold AC for under $1000. EDIT: If you wish to charge the system your self, you will need a proper 3 line gauge set ($35 on ebay) and a vacuum pump ($50 on ebay) Attach the low and high pressure lines to the AC system, attach vacuum pump to yellow line and start vacuuming. Open low pressure side valve on gauge and allow pressure to drop to -30psi. Vacuum for 30 minutes to remove moisture and air from system. Close low pressure valve and remove pump. Make sure system holds negative pressure for 30 minutes to ensure no leaks. Afterwards attach a can of Freon to yellow line. Start car and turn on AC to max. Open low pressure valve and let Freon into system. Low pressure should jump up to 60 psi but then the compressor should kick on and pressure will drop down to below 20. Note that the compressor pulley always spins but only when the clutch kicks in and the center part of the pulley is spinning is Freon being pumped! System will likely need 2 cans of R134a Freon (Maybe a little more. 3 cans is too much). We want low pressure of about 30-35 psi and high pressure around 250 on a nice day. (Pressures vary by day time temperatures). Remember to close the low pressure valve when switching Freon cans. Also the gauges pressures sometimes take a while to settle so add the 2 cans and then rev the motor up and let the system cycle a bit before deciding if pressures are right or if more is needed. A system with too much Freon will not cool! More is not better! View full article
  14. Looking for an AC knob for Clarity air conditioning system.
  15. Looking to get the dimensions on the 02 heaterbox. If you have one out and don't mind measuring it I would really appreciate it. Need full dimensions length, depth without the fan just the box itself, and height.
  16. As the title states, I'm looking for a shop to install a universal AC kit for me, I have an m42 swap so compressor and bracket will be stock m42 parts, all other components (hoses, condenser, evap drier etc), will be aftermarket, if you know a shop in socal that you can reccomend I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
  17. Any Diagnosis Information: Brand new Korman Motor. Just broken in last week. AC works and blows hard and cold, but when accelerating or idling and warming up, This is what I hear. My guess is a loose belt? Water pump is new. The entire engine and AC is new. (AC approximately 1.5 years old from http://www.iceautoair.com) It has performed well. Any thoughts? Beltsqueal.MOV
  18. I found a wrecked 318is for an m42 swap to my 02 and have decided to pursue that route. Over the last few years I have collected parts for the m10 some aftermarket and OE. Its time to sell it all as I wil not be needing it with the M42, all proceeds will go to fund my m42 swap. Below is a list of the parts I have available: - 121ti cylinder head in used condition, unknown miles removed from a running engine $100 - e21 2.0 cylinder head that looks to have been rebuilt and then used briefly. $150 - Getrag 245 5 speed with 120k confirmed miles, no wines, crunches, or other scary noises. It has the 3 bolt output flange. E21 shifter plate included and slave cylinder is attached. $250 - Second getrag 245 5 speed swap out of my 02 with unknown miles but always drove fine with no bad noises 3 bolt output flange. It could use a new output shaft seal. $225 - E30 318 EFI manifold, fuel rail with injectors and regulator, throttle body, coolant neck and bypass pipe, other misc stuff included $100 - Crane XR3000 ignition system used but in working condition with optical trigger installed in a vacuum advance dizzy with bosch wires, cap & rotor used less than 5k miles $125 - 2 used e21 320is radiators no cracks or leaks in decent shape $40ea - Used M10 mechanical fuel pump blockoff plate $10 - M10 2.0 bottom end with unknown miles but running when removed from a 72 02 $100 - E30 Battery relocation cable with junction box and possibly the cover, $40 - New Ebay Turbo TBC-T04E-T $50 - 2 New OE+ Oil Filters for the M10 $2.50/ea - 6 NOS Bosch W8DC Plugs $2/ea - Other stuff I am forgetting and will add later Pictures are available via email, PM, or this photo bucket link: http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/selbstsalesinc/library/BMW2002%20Stuff Willing to ship anywhere in the continental US on your dime, all prices are or best offer. Local pick up in Lexington or Louisville is welcome. PM me here or email me at turboinduction at gmail dot com Andrew Location: Lexington, KY
  19. Anyone with a HobieDave bracket they decided not to use? I have tried to contact Hobiedave (please answer) and I guess he is a bit busy with the Holidays. Need to replace my water-pump and upgrading the cooling and AC system. Sort of stalled right now, would like to take advantage of having to remove the current York compressor and bracket to replace the water pump and would like to just replace it with the awesome HobieDave Sanden Compressor Bracket. Anyone that decided to go in a different direction or removed their AC and don't need their bracket anymore? Thank you, Vic.
  20. Price:: 325.00 Location: : richmond,ca i am selling a behr heater box it's complete and i am also including the heater control faces with knobs, the fan turns, the heater core is intact no leaks, holes or cracks, it can be used but i would recommend a good cleaning. Its getting colder out there and i do believe this is an important item to enjoy your classic ride in a warm enviroment. The blower was tested and it works without a problem!
  21. I'm selling my 1975 BMW 2002. This car is a blast from the past that reminds you how much fun driving used to be. It's light, grippy, revvy, and turns heads everywhere. This one has a few choice modifications to set it apart from the pack. Serial Number 2362303. If you are interested email at [email protected] or call/text 804-512-0171. The Good: - 30,XXX miles!!! - Weber DCOE 40 Carburetor upgrade - Tubular headers with custom exhaust for pleasant, sporty engine note - MSD Ignition - Air Conditioning (needs to be recharged) - Hand crank sun roof - 4 speed manual transmission - Haynes Manual - I drive it weekly to maintain running condition - Interior is clean with some wear to and tear - Inspection good through August 2016 The Bad: - Sizable scratch on drivers door - Rough idle I've had a number of comments about the mileage, so I wanted to make some clarifications. I know the mileage on 2002s can be a real challenge to nail down. My understanding of the low mileage comes from the title and the opinion of mechanics I've had work on it. The discolored carpet and cracked dash are caused by time in the sun, not necessarily miles driven. All that being said, unless I get someone more knowledgeable to take a look at the car and determine otherwise, to me it's a 30K car and priced accordingly. I encourage anyone who is interested to come take a look, give it a drive, take it to your mechanic and make an offer based on what you think it's worth. I'm open to offers, but not until you come and take a look. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I'm a fan of these cars and I'm looking for a good home for this one!
  22. The decals are finally ready and I would like to post the installation guide(s) for all three (3) options: 1) BEHR A/C (stencil) 2) Shift pattern (decal) 3) Instrument lettering (stencil) For purchasing info, please visit the classifieds section: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/174999-behr-ac-dash-lettering-shift-patterns/ The steps are straightforward & I hope this will serve as the definitive reference thread for all who have expressed interest. Best wishes, Mo Faraz
  23. I have created a new series of decals/stencils for interested owners. You may reference the installation guide here: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/175000-decalsstencils-installation-guide/ Each stencil costs $16/shipped worldwide. Each 4 speed (special) shift pattern decal costs $10/shipped worldwide. The price for any second set of decal or stencil is an additional $10. My Paypal is mofaraz [at] uw [dot] edu Please include your preferred shipping address & the type of decal/stencil you would like to purchase. You will receive from me: 1) Payment confirmation 2) Shipping confirmation with USPS tracking # Please pm me or post a reply if you have any questions & I will get back to you. Thanks for looking, Mo Faraz Instruments stencil kit: $20/shipped A/C Stencil kit: $20/shipped Special shift pattern decal: $18/shipped
  24. $60 + actual shipping - Alternator (for a early 70's Bravera, 3.0 CS or early M6) Just rebuilt 6 months ago and it works just fine. It is the wrong one for my 2002 tii and it doesn't have internal rubber mounts that the tii's have/need. It is in great shape. TAKEN - Clardy A/C Blower unit. What you see is what you get, no metal dash bracket, no compressor. When I pulled this out of my car the blower fan worked great. I can try and answer any questions you have Also I am open to trades too Let me know what you have. Thanks for looking Nick
  25. I have a york compressor with a Behr evaporator and (I assume) condenser. I would like to move to a Sanden compressor and keep the rest of the components in place. I would like to keep it R12 if possible but there is Red Tek R12a which will let me use any oil and keep R12 components. (which may save me some time and $$) I know I need the following: Sanden SD508 compressor Hobiedave bracket OR York to Sanden bracket (flat or claw?-If no Hobiedave) Sanden R12 fittings Ester Oil Red Tek recharge kit (I think I need to request R12 hose) Or am I making this too difficult and use R134 fittings with the Red Tek ? 1. Has anyone tried this? 2. Do I need anything else?


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