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Found 30 results

  1. Looking for a double row crank pulley as the foundation of my new air conditioning system. I am starting with the pulley and working outwards - it is the one part of the process that has only one solution after all. Show me what you have, this will need shipping to New South Wales in Australia, so it would be good if you can get a quote (USPS works pretty well I find). Let me know what you want all up and I will Paypal it over to you ASAP. PM me with details. Thanks in advance. Simeon
  2. I am slowly planning out installation of air conditioning in my car. Like most projects, I like to plan it out endlessly before knuckling down and doing something. I am also a bit A/C challenged where despite living in Australia, I grew up in the UK where A/C (used to be) very rare. What I am pondering today is fan usage. I am going to get a large parallel flow condenser in the nose which will be sandwiched up against the outside face of the radiator. If I can get a large, quality electric fan in the nose (say 14”), can I wire this to run with both the Airconditioning being on and with a coolant temperature switch in parallel so one fan will cool both? Does anyone run this arrangement or do I need to keep the mechanical fan? What about the condenser fan running all the time the air is on? Is that an issue at highway speeds?
  3. I have some 2002 parts I am starting to clear out. Let me know what you are interested in and I will let you know actual cost to ship. Contact me at [email protected] or text 858-208-8449 Weber 32/36 DGAV - This came off a well running TI motor - $80 Solex 36-40 PDSI - I have two of these - $50 EA Fuel pump original old version for 1502, 1602, 1802, 2002 from 08/73 up only with pump rod 88 mm length (part number 13 31 1 255 727) - $30 EA Fuel pump 1502,1602,1802,2002 only with pump rod 108 mm length (part number 13 31 1 250 398) -$35 Chrome 13" hubcaps for Early 2002 - $80 for all 5 AC Fan Housing - 1972 BMW 2002, not tested; you will get what you see in pictures. $100 Heater Box -$85 tii brake calipers ATE right and left - SOLD
  4. Removed from 1972 BMW 2002, not tested; you will get what you see in pictures. $100 You will pay actual shipping cost and I prefer USPS but can drop off at FEDEX too. Contact me at [email protected] or text 858-208-8449 with your zipcode for shipping costs
  5. Having recently completed my air conditioning system, i thought i would layout what it takes to install your own modern air conditioning system. Air conditioning is one of those mysterious things that everyone is afraid of when in actuality its not much more complicated that the coolant system on an M10. There is a liquid that gets pumped around a sealed system and as it expands it cools and then we compress it again through the compressor, lower its temperature though the condenser and then repeat the process. A basic air conditioning system is made up of the following components. Evaporator (The unit that mounts in the vehicle and has your AC controls and vents) Compressor and mounting bracket Condenser (The radiator that mounts at the front of the car in the engine bay) Electric push fan Hoses and dryer I will discuss what you need to know about each component: EVAPORATOR This is going to be the toughest component to track down because you cannot buy a new unit. 2002 did not come with air conditioning from factory and so you have to track down an aftermarket unit from the 70's that was installed into the cars by the dealer. You need to source a used Clady, Behr or Fridgeking evaporator / center console though the for sale forums. Any unit you get should be pressure tested and the expansion valve replaced. This is my Behr system. The systems all look different and different people prefer the looks of different systems. The evaporator produces a large amount of water when it operates and the evaporators have a water drain hole in the bottom. You will need to drill a hole through the top of the transmission tunnel to install a rubber drain hose so that the water doesn't flood your interior. The switches for the evaporator should be cleaned, checked for electrical function. Remember old evaporators use flare fittings. Modern hose kits are O ring kits. You will need flare to O ring adapters that are used with flare fittings in order to convert the flare fittings to O ring fittings. #6 and #10 flare adapters. https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/6-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/10-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html You can also buy copper crush washers which go into the flare adapters to help with the seal if your flare ends aren't in pristine condition. COMPRESSOR AND BRACKET We will keep this simple. The old system compressors are much larger and heavier than modern rotary style compressors. Dont even bother with an old compressor. Buy a modern Sanden 508 compressor. You can buy genuine Sanden for $250 or a chinese knockoff for $130-$150. You will need a V belt model and these can be gotten from Ebay or http://nostalgicac.com/. Very important. The Compressors must be filed with oil. There are different types of oil and some oils are compatible with old style freon (R12) and some are compatible with new style freon (R134a). Since R12 can no longer be obtained you might as well plan on using R134a freon which mean Pag or Ester oil. Compressor uses 6oz of oil after you fully drain all the shipping oil from the unit. The bracket is easy. The Clardy system came with a bracket that fits the Sanden 508 compressor but also luckily a 2002faq member is now making an excellent bracket which can be bought from hobiedave. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/82340-custom-made-ac-compressor-brackets-sold-out/?hl=hobiedave CONDENSER The condenser is simply a matter of size. The bigger the better but you need to factor in how big can you fit into the nose of the 2002 and whether or not you are willing to cut the support bars to fit a larger condenser. A 9" x 12" condenser fits perfectly with no cutting however that is definitely considered on the small size. They make 10" x 18" condensers which might just fit without cutting but i have not tested this. You will need to decide how big you want to go here. You will need to mount this to the front of the nose, there are condenser mounting straps or you can zip tie it in depending on how much drilling and modifying you want to do. FAN You will need an electric fan on a relay kit to blow air through the condenser. The fan should be sized appropriately to fit into the nose of the 2002. I used a 10 inch fan which in my opinion fit perfectly. Don't forget to power the fan directly from the battery with a relay kit since it draws a lot of amps. HOSES AND DRYER People get scared by the plumbing of the AC system, but its actually very simple. There are standard AC hose sizes and certain sizes go between certain components. You will use #10, #8 and #6 size hose in your install. The #10 runs from the evaporator to the compressor. The #8 runs from the compressor to the Condenser. The #6 runs from the condenser to the dryer and then back to the evaporator. Ebay and http://nostalgicac.com/ sell "Hose Kits" which include the hoses, connections, safety switch and the dryer. Buy a universal kit and it should have everything you need! The safety switch measures freon pressure levels and cutoff the system if levels get too high or too low. It gets wired in series with the AC controls and compressor. To make your own AC lines you will need a crimper tool. I used this one and it worked great. I also used a substance called Nyloc with all my o ring fittings. Its a type of AC sealant and you coat the O rings in it before tightening and it helps to minimize any leaks. This stuff is option but recommended. Once everything is installed you will need to have the system charged with freon by a professional AC shop. But if everything goes to plan you will have good cold AC for under $1000. EDIT: If you wish to charge the system your self, you will need a proper 3 line gauge set ($35 on ebay) and a vacuum pump ($50 on ebay) Attach the low and high pressure lines to the AC system, attach vacuum pump to yellow line and start vacuuming. Open low pressure side valve on gauge and allow pressure to drop to -30psi. Vacuum for 30 minutes to remove moisture and air from system. Close low pressure valve and remove pump. Make sure system holds negative pressure for 30 minutes to ensure no leaks. Afterwards attach a can of Freon to yellow line. Start car and turn on AC to max. Open low pressure valve and let Freon into system. Low pressure should jump up to 60 psi but then the compressor should kick on and pressure will drop down to below 20. Note that the compressor pulley always spins but only when the clutch kicks in and the center part of the pulley is spinning is Freon being pumped! System will likely need 2 cans of R134a Freon (Maybe a little more. 3 cans is too much). We want low pressure of about 30-35 psi and high pressure around 250 on a nice day. (Pressures vary by day time temperatures). Remember to close the low pressure valve when switching Freon cans. Also the gauges pressures sometimes take a while to settle so add the 2 cans and then rev the motor up and let the system cycle a bit before deciding if pressures are right or if more is needed. A system with too much Freon will not cool! More is not better!
  6. I have three belt grooves on my crank pulley. Center one is water pump and alternator. Which one would be used for A/C belt, inner or outer? Thanks
  7. I have these parts I don't need, A/C compressor bracket, A/C fan that fits in front of condenser and the condenser. I don't think anyone will want the condenser, but if you do, let me know. The A/C bracket is bare, without the rubber grommets and fit in those holes (you'd want new ones anyway) you see that cushion the bolts that hold the bracket to the block. I think they are available, or a reasonable substitute. Heavy, you pay shipping, or if you can pick up up here in Seattle. The A/C fan - yes it got painted at some point in its life, paint over it. Also doesn't have the rubber mounting pieces, also think these are either available or something else can work. The fan motor is questionable, I don't think it works, but it does not have any play in the shaft. AS IS ! the condenser, I think folks usually don't re-use these, and opt for a larger one when retro-fitting new A/C into an older car, like the 2002 !
  8. For those of you looking for alternatives to Behr and Frigiking evaporators (and especially if you want a keep the stock center console), I present this as an option. I don't know if I'm the first person to install this, but it certainly hasn't been documented on the FAQ yet. Here's what it looks like installed in my car. Now onto the details. Here's the evaporator/blower unit I used. It's small and has pretty good air output. I haven't actually compared its cooling abilities to a Behr or Frigiking unit, but it makes Atlanta summers much more bearable. The installation is fairly straightforward. My car came to me with a non-working Frigiking unit, so it had holes in the firewall behind the center console. If I were starting from scratch, I would have moved the holes over to the passenger side a bit, but it still works just fine as is. Here are the basic steps to install this: 1) Remove glovebox. You won't need the glovebox tray or latch, but you will need to keep the padded front cover plate. 2) Lift up the dash to expose the sheet metal frame below. The top of the A/C unit has two threaded rods that are used for mounting. Position the unit where you want it and then mark the two hole locations on the underside of the sheetmetal. My recommendation is to position it as close to the firewall as possible so that you leave enough clearance for the cover plate to be reinstalled. 3) Drill the two holes. I have a two piece dash, and the holes ended up just behind where the bottom piece ends. 4) Put foam rubber strips on the top of the A/C unit to prevent any rattling. Because it's mounted directly to the sheet metal, leaving it un-cushioned would probably lead to lots of rattles and buzzing. 5) Two mounting points aren't sufficient to hold it securely, so I bent some aluminum bar stock and drilled holes in the end. I then attached one end to the back of the A/C unit and the other end to the sheet metal. 6) Next you'll need to drill a hole in the firewall for the drain tube. In my opinion, the single small drain tube can't keep up with the amount of condensation this produces - after extended use, I can hear water sloshing around in there. It's a problem when the unit is mounted flat (parallel to the road). To help it drain more easily, the unit needs to be tilted a few degrees so that the drain hole is at the lowest point. I did this by bending the aluminum bar stock at the back. 7) At this point, you can hook up the A/C lines and wire it up. If I were to do it again, after I got the unit dry fit, I would remove it to put on the lines. They're hard to access once this thing is in place. A note on the fan switch: My car had a manual choke that was useless after I changed carbs, so I used that hole next to the steering wheel to mount the switch. Looks stock. 8) After you've tested everything, you can reinstall the dash. 9) The final step is to modify the padded cover panel you removed from the glovebox. The construction of that part is interesting. There's a sheet metal internal frame surrounded by foam, then skinned with vinyl. I had to cut both the foam and the metal frame (from the inside) to get it to fit over the A/C unit. This step took a lot of time and test fitting, but once done, it looks mostly stock. I bent some steel brackets and attached some magnets to them, then screwed those into the metal frame. I couldn't get a good photo, but the brackets slide into the sheet metal frame under the dash. To install the cover plate, you kind of lift it up into position, then pull toward the rear of the car. It wedges into place nicely, and is very secure. That's pretty much it! I'll add some more photos of the completed install so you get a better idea of how the parts fit with the defrost hose and center console. To direct air to the driver side, I added some flexible hose and angled them. Not a good long term solution, but it works for now. I would love to create some sort of angled flap system in the three outlets. Hope this helps inspire others to come up with their own solutions! I'm happy to answer any questions, or take more photos.
  9. I have a new Sanden 507 compressor with mount and hardware that I don’t need, if you’re going to install or refurbish A/C this could be for you less than I was quoted for the compressor alone all for $225
  10. I've dug around the forums, but couldn't find a definitive answer. What lower hose is compatible with the W+N high cooling radiator and A/C? I've read that W+N sells a 90 degree hose that works, but would part number 11531266452 work? Does anyone have some photos of this radiator installed with A/C? Thanks!
  11. Attached is a very rough layout of my center console. It is for my Behr AC. The cardboard is the screen for the sniper. I need a couple of extra buttons. 1) Ac fan override 2) AC (maybe) 3) interior lights override. 4) Work lights(maybe) . The washers at the bottom are about the size of the buttons I was thinking of using. The grey nob is where the hazard is going. The old fog light switch is now a rear power trunk release. The stock knobs will be used and attached to a modern fan controller and thermostat. The radio has to go there because any higher it would crowd out the sniper screen, Just wondering if anyone has another place to put your extra switches, and what style you chose.
  12. Hey guys I'm in need of a replacement Clardy/ICE A/C console. The one in the attached photos is a 1976 dealership installed late Clardy console from what I've researched. I'm having the air conditioning system replaced and I would like to replace my console with a newer reproduction from Forrest Koogle here in California. I'm in need of the sides and vents to use Forrest's reproduction piece and would like my console set up to look like the one here http://www.kooglewerks.com/products/bmw-2002-clardy-ice-ac-ac-console-panel-cup-holder . The console I have is in decent shape but I would love to have cup holders and a more modern looking interior. I'm looking to buy the sides and vents from someone here on the forum to have a complete console. Thanks guys!
  13. New $110 shipped
  14. Location: : Bozeman MT SOLD - PM me about any parts in the photo you're interested in. (Sorry the block and crankshaft just sold) I can send close-up photos if you want to see more detail. The Victor Reinz gasket is still new in package. I recall some of the parts are A/C specific and hard to find, but I couldn't find diagrams on RealOem to identify them. If you're in need them, you'll know better than I do. The 3 pistons are piano tops. Not sure of their condition, but they look good to my naked eye.
  15. Having recently completed my air conditioning system, i thought i would layout what it takes to install your own modern air conditioning system. Air conditioning is one of those mysterious things that everyone is afraid of when in actuality its not much more complicated that the coolant system on an M10. There is a liquid that gets pumped around a sealed system and as it expands it cools and then we compress it again through the compressor, lower its temperature though the condenser and then repeat the process. A basic air conditioning system is made up of the following components. Evaporator (The unit that mounts in the vehicle and has your AC controls and vents) Compressor and mounting bracket Condenser (The radiator that mounts at the front of the car in the engine bay) Electric push fan Hoses and dryer I will discuss what you need to know about each component: EVAPORATOR This is going to be the toughest component to track down because you cannot buy a new unit. 2002 did not come with air conditioning from factory and so you have to track down an aftermarket unit from the 70's that was installed into the cars by the dealer. You need to source a used Clady, Behr or Fridgeking evaporator / center console though the for sale forums. Any unit you get should be pressure tested and the expansion valve replaced. This is my Behr system. The systems all look different and different people prefer the looks of different systems. The evaporator produces a large amount of water when it operates and the evaporators have a water drain hole in the bottom. You will need to drill a hole through the top of the transmission tunnel to install a rubber drain hose so that the water doesn't flood your interior. The switches for the evaporator should be cleaned, checked for electrical function. Remember old evaporators use flare fittings. Modern hose kits are O ring kits. You will need flare to O ring adapters that are used with flare fittings in order to convert the flare fittings to O ring fittings. #6 and #10 flare adapters. https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/6-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/10-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html You can also buy copper crush washers which go into the flare adapters to help with the seal if your flare ends aren't in pristine condition. COMPRESSOR AND BRACKET We will keep this simple. The old system compressors are much larger and heavier than modern rotary style compressors. Dont even bother with an old compressor. Buy a modern Sanden 508 compressor. You can buy genuine Sanden for $250 or a chinese knockoff for $130-$150. You will need a V belt model and these can be gotten from Ebay or http://nostalgicac.com/. Very important. The Compressors must be filed with oil. There are different types of oil and some oils are compatible with old style freon (R12) and some are compatible with new style freon (R134a). Since R12 can no longer be obtained you might as well plan on using R134a freon which mean Pag or Ester oil. Compressor uses 6oz of oil after you fully drain all the shipping oil from the unit. The bracket is easy. The Clardy system came with a bracket that fits the Sanden 508 compressor but also luckily a 2002faq member is now making an excellent bracket which can be bought from hobiedave. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/82340-custom-made-ac-compressor-brackets-sold-out/?hl=hobiedave CONDENSER The condenser is simply a matter of size. The bigger the better but you need to factor in how big can you fit into the nose of the 2002 and whether or not you are willing to cut the support bars to fit a larger condenser. A 9" x 12" condenser fits perfectly with no cutting however that is definitely considered on the small size. They make 10" x 18" condensers which might just fit without cutting but i have not tested this. You will need to decide how big you want to go here. You will need to mount this to the front of the nose, there are condenser mounting straps or you can zip tie it in depending on how much drilling and modifying you want to do. FAN You will need an electric fan on a relay kit to blow air through the condenser. The fan should be sized appropriately to fit into the nose of the 2002. I used a 10 inch fan which in my opinion fit perfectly. Don't forget to power the fan directly from the battery with a relay kit since it draws a lot of amps. HOSES AND DRYER People get scared by the plumbing of the AC system, but its actually very simple. There are standard AC hose sizes and certain sizes go between certain components. You will use #10, #8 and #6 size hose in your install. The #10 runs from the evaporator to the compressor. The #8 runs from the compressor to the Condenser. The #6 runs from the condenser to the dryer and then back to the evaporator. Ebay and http://nostalgicac.com/ sell "Hose Kits" which include the hoses, connections, safety switch and the dryer. Buy a universal kit and it should have everything you need! The safety switch measures freon pressure levels and cutoff the system if levels get too high or too low. It gets wired in series with the AC controls and compressor. To make your own AC lines you will need a crimper tool. I used this one and it worked great. I also used a substance called Nyloc with all my o ring fittings. Its a type of AC sealant and you coat the O rings in it before tightening and it helps to minimize any leaks. This stuff is option but recommended. Once everything is installed you will need to have the system charged with freon by a professional AC shop. But if everything goes to plan you will have good cold AC for under $1000. EDIT: If you wish to charge the system your self, you will need a proper 3 line gauge set ($35 on ebay) and a vacuum pump ($50 on ebay) Attach the low and high pressure lines to the AC system, attach vacuum pump to yellow line and start vacuuming. Open low pressure side valve on gauge and allow pressure to drop to -30psi. Vacuum for 30 minutes to remove moisture and air from system. Close low pressure valve and remove pump. Make sure system holds negative pressure for 30 minutes to ensure no leaks. Afterwards attach a can of Freon to yellow line. Start car and turn on AC to max. Open low pressure valve and let Freon into system. Low pressure should jump up to 60 psi but then the compressor should kick on and pressure will drop down to below 20. Note that the compressor pulley always spins but only when the clutch kicks in and the center part of the pulley is spinning is Freon being pumped! System will likely need 2 cans of R134a Freon (Maybe a little more. 3 cans is too much). We want low pressure of about 30-35 psi and high pressure around 250 on a nice day. (Pressures vary by day time temperatures). Remember to close the low pressure valve when switching Freon cans. Also the gauges pressures sometimes take a while to settle so add the 2 cans and then rev the motor up and let the system cycle a bit before deciding if pressures are right or if more is needed. A system with too much Freon will not cool! More is not better! View full article
  16. Hi all, I'm getting ready to install A/C on my '75 and I need to replace the expansion valve on my Frigiking evaporator. Does anyone know where to get a new valve? I've looked at a few other topics on this but can't find any definitive answers, just the advice to get a new one. Here are some photos: This this one from Nostalgic A/C looks close - will it work? http://nostalgicac.com/driers-valves/expansion-valves/oring-expansion-valve.html thanks, Garrett
  17. Price:: 25 shipped Location: : Marin County, CA Fan knob and temp knob. Note different shape holes in bottom for different shaped stems. Please look at the photos I don't remember what car I got these off of... $25 shipped
  18. Price:: 1000 Location: : Boulder, CO Edit: System is sold! I have a complete Behr A/C system that I just removed from my '72 2002. The system was 100% operational and blowing cold when I removed it from the car. Includes the following: 1. Center console unit with both control knobs, hazard switch, ash tray, and side panels. 2. Compressor, compressor bracket for M10, belt and tensioner for compressor. (bracket and tensioner/belt are not pictured but are included) 3. Condensor/fan unit. 4. All wiring and relays needed for installation. 5. All hoses needed for installation. 6. 95% of the hardware needed, except for the few nuts/washers that invariably get dropped and roll under the toolbox every time I work on the car. This is as complete a system as you will find. Condition is as pictured. Clean it up, install, and go! Will ship at buyer's expense if necessary.
  19. Looking for the plastic lip that goes inside the shifter surround. See the pic for images of the console (circled). Borrowed the image from user Matt on another thread. Thanks.
  20. I need to wrap the air conditioning hoses (a/c) that run from the compressor to the firewall to protect them from the heat of the exhaust manifold. Can anyone suggest an appropriate material & the source for that material? (Yes, I searched first. ) Thanks! Bob
  21. Price:: $40 Location: : Marin County, CA Removed years ago from a vintage 1974 BMW 2002 car, stored indoors, excellent condition. Will work in most under dash, dealer installed auto A/C units. Knob turns easily and thermostat clicks as it is turned. Shipping available for 7 bucks extra
  22. I have the original a/c components on my 1975 bmw 2002. I need the bushings for the bracket in order to tighten the belt. thanks.
  23. I need the bushings for a/c compressor bracket in order to tighten the belt. thanks


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