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Found 30 results

  1. I have these parts I don't need, A/C compressor bracket, A/C fan that fits in front of condenser and the condenser. I don't think anyone will want the condenser, but if you do, let me know. The A/C bracket is bare, without the rubber grommets and fit in those holes (you'd want new ones anyway) you see that cushion the bolts that hold the bracket to the block. I think they are available, or a reasonable substitute. Heavy, you pay shipping, or if you can pick up up here in Seattle. The A/C fan - yes it got painted at some point in its life, paint over it. Also doesn't have the rubber mounting pieces, also think these are either available or something else can work. The fan motor is questionable, I don't think it works, but it does not have any play in the shaft. AS IS ! the condenser, I think folks usually don't re-use these, and opt for a larger one when retro-fitting new A/C into an older car, like the 2002 !
  2. Looking for a double row crank pulley as the foundation of my new air conditioning system. I am starting with the pulley and working outwards - it is the one part of the process that has only one solution after all. Show me what you have, this will need shipping to New South Wales in Australia, so it would be good if you can get a quote (USPS works pretty well I find). Let me know what you want all up and I will Paypal it over to you ASAP. PM me with details. Thanks in advance. Simeon
  3. I am slowly planning out installation of air conditioning in my car. Like most projects, I like to plan it out endlessly before knuckling down and doing something. I am also a bit A/C challenged where despite living in Australia, I grew up in the UK where A/C (used to be) very rare. What I am pondering today is fan usage. I am going to get a large parallel flow condenser in the nose which will be sandwiched up against the outside face of the radiator. If I can get a large, quality electric fan in the nose (say 14”), can I wire this to run with both the Airconditioning being on and with a coolant temperature switch in parallel so one fan will cool both? Does anyone run this arrangement or do I need to keep the mechanical fan? What about the condenser fan running all the time the air is on? Is that an issue at highway speeds?
  4. I have some 2002 parts I am starting to clear out. Let me know what you are interested in and I will let you know actual cost to ship. Contact me at colletti.charles@yahoo.com or text 858-208-8449 Weber 32/36 DGAV - This came off a well running TI motor - $80 Solex 36-40 PDSI - I have two of these - $50 EA Fuel pump original old version for 1502, 1602, 1802, 2002 from 08/73 up only with pump rod 88 mm length (part number 13 31 1 255 727) - $30 EA Fuel pump 1502,1602,1802,2002 only with pump rod 108 mm length (part number 13 31 1 250 398) -$35 Chrome 13" hubcaps for Early 2002 - $80 for all 5 AC Fan Housing - 1972 BMW 2002, not tested; you will get what you see in pictures. $100 Heater Box -$85 tii brake calipers ATE right and left - SOLD
  5. Removed from 1972 BMW 2002, not tested; you will get what you see in pictures. $100 You will pay actual shipping cost and I prefer USPS but can drop off at FEDEX too. Contact me at colletti.charles@yahoo.com or text 858-208-8449 with your zipcode for shipping costs
  6. I've dug around the forums, but couldn't find a definitive answer. What lower hose is compatible with the W+N high cooling radiator and A/C? I've read that W+N sells a 90 degree hose that works, but would part number 11531266452 work? Does anyone have some photos of this radiator installed with A/C? Thanks!
  7. I have a new Sanden 507 compressor with mount and hardware that I don’t need, if you’re going to install or refurbish A/C this could be for you less than I was quoted for the compressor alone all for $225
  8. Attached is a very rough layout of my center console. It is for my Behr AC. The cardboard is the screen for the sniper. I need a couple of extra buttons. 1) Ac fan override 2) AC (maybe) 3) interior lights override. 4) Work lights(maybe) . The washers at the bottom are about the size of the buttons I was thinking of using. The grey nob is where the hazard is going. The old fog light switch is now a rear power trunk release. The stock knobs will be used and attached to a modern fan controller and thermostat. The radio has to go there because any higher it would crowd out the sniper screen, Just wondering if anyone has another place to put your extra switches, and what style you chose.
  9. Hey guys I'm in need of a replacement Clardy/ICE A/C console. The one in the attached photos is a 1976 dealership installed late Clardy console from what I've researched. I'm having the air conditioning system replaced and I would like to replace my console with a newer reproduction from Forrest Koogle here in California. I'm in need of the sides and vents to use Forrest's reproduction piece and would like my console set up to look like the one here http://www.kooglewerks.com/products/bmw-2002-clardy-ice-ac-ac-console-panel-cup-holder . The console I have is in decent shape but I would love to have cup holders and a more modern looking interior. I'm looking to buy the sides and vents from someone here on the forum to have a complete console. Thanks guys!
  10. New $110 shipped
  11. For those of you looking for alternatives to Behr and Frigiking evaporators (and especially if you want a keep the stock center console), I present this as an option. I don't know if I'm the first person to install this, but it certainly hasn't been documented on the FAQ yet. Here's what it looks like installed in my car. Now onto the details. Here's the evaporator/blower unit I used. It's small and has pretty good air output. I haven't actually compared its cooling abilities to a Behr or Frigiking unit, but it makes Atlanta summers much more bearable. The installation is fairly straightforward. My car came to me with a non-working Frigiking unit, so it had holes in the firewall behind the center console. If I were starting from scratch, I would have moved the holes over to the passenger side a bit, but it still works just fine as is. Here are the basic steps to install this: 1) Remove glovebox. You won't need the glovebox tray or latch, but you will need to keep the padded front cover plate. 2) Lift up the dash to expose the sheet metal frame below. The top of the A/C unit has two threaded rods that are used for mounting. Position the unit where you want it and then mark the two hole locations on the underside of the sheetmetal. My recommendation is to position it as close to the firewall as possible so that you leave enough clearance for the cover plate to be reinstalled. 3) Drill the two holes. I have a two piece dash, and the holes ended up just behind where the bottom piece ends. 4) Put foam rubber strips on the top of the A/C unit to prevent any rattling. Because it's mounted directly to the sheet metal, leaving it un-cushioned would probably lead to lots of rattles and buzzing. 5) Two mounting points aren't sufficient to hold it securely, so I bent some aluminum bar stock and drilled holes in the end. I then attached one end to the back of the A/C unit and the other end to the sheet metal. 6) Next you'll need to drill a hole in the firewall for the drain tube. In my opinion, the single small drain tube can't keep up with the amount of condensation this produces - after extended use, I can hear water sloshing around in there. It's a problem when the unit is mounted flat (parallel to the road). To help it drain more easily, the unit needs to be tilted a few degrees so that the drain hole is at the lowest point. I did this by bending the aluminum bar stock at the back. 7) At this point, you can hook up the A/C lines and wire it up. If I were to do it again, after I got the unit dry fit, I would remove it to put on the lines. They're hard to access once this thing is in place. A note on the fan switch: My car had a manual choke that was useless after I changed carbs, so I used that hole next to the steering wheel to mount the switch. Looks stock. 8) After you've tested everything, you can reinstall the dash. 9) The final step is to modify the padded cover panel you removed from the glovebox. The construction of that part is interesting. There's a sheet metal internal frame surrounded by foam, then skinned with vinyl. I had to cut both the foam and the metal frame (from the inside) to get it to fit over the A/C unit. This step took a lot of time and test fitting, but once done, it looks mostly stock. I bent some steel brackets and attached some magnets to them, then screwed those into the metal frame. I couldn't get a good photo, but the brackets slide into the sheet metal frame under the dash. To install the cover plate, you kind of lift it up into position, then pull toward the rear of the car. It wedges into place nicely, and is very secure. That's pretty much it! I'll add some more photos of the completed install so you get a better idea of how the parts fit with the defrost hose and center console. To direct air to the driver side, I added some flexible hose and angled them. Not a good long term solution, but it works for now. I would love to create some sort of angled flap system in the three outlets. Hope this helps inspire others to come up with their own solutions! I'm happy to answer any questions, or take more photos.
  12. Location: : Bozeman MT SOLD - PM me about any parts in the photo you're interested in. (Sorry the block and crankshaft just sold) I can send close-up photos if you want to see more detail. The Victor Reinz gasket is still new in package. I recall some of the parts are A/C specific and hard to find, but I couldn't find diagrams on RealOem to identify them. If you're in need them, you'll know better than I do. The 3 pistons are piano tops. Not sure of their condition, but they look good to my naked eye.
  13. I have three belt grooves on my crank pulley. Center one is water pump and alternator. Which one would be used for A/C belt, inner or outer? Thanks
  14. Price:: $40 Location: : Marin County, CA Removed years ago from a vintage 1974 BMW 2002 car, stored indoors, excellent condition. Will work in most under dash, dealer installed auto A/C units. Knob turns easily and thermostat clicks as it is turned. Shipping available for 7 bucks extra
  15. I'm looking for some advice on whether I should try to rebuild a frigiking A/C unit or install a newer underdash aftermarket unit in my 76 2002. The frigiking unit looks pretty beat up. It was not working when I got the car a year ago so I pulled it out of the car. It is also missing some knobs and has some cracks. I'm not concerned about having a period correct A/C unit. I would like to have an A/C unit that works since I live in the desert and I'm wondering if anyone has experience using something newer and smaller than the frigiking. I also am wondering about the installation and if it would be easier to rebuild the frigiking since it was already in the car or go with a newer underdash unit and how difficult that would be to install all the components that go along with the actual A/C unit. Thanks, Roberto
  16. Quick question about the A/C high/low pressure switch wiring. The eBay kit I purchased included a high/low pressure switch that has four wires: two blue and two black. See photo below: If I understand how to wire the A/C system, that switch simply goes between the thermostat and the compressor. There's one wire from the thermostat and one from the compressor. So how do I use this pressure switch with four wires? Garrett
  17. I'm stuck. I just installed an A/C system in my car. Evacuated it without any problems or leaks, held a vacuum for a half hour to test. I'm trying to charge it with cans of r12a, but something's not right. I jumped the trinary switch so that the compressor comes on when the blower is on. The compressor clutch is working fine. When I fill the low side with coolant, it goes to about 40psi. I turn on the blower and compressor, but nothing happens. The low side is still at 40psi and the high side is still under a slight vacuum. Any ideas what is happening? The compressor is a Sanden clone, filled with the proper amount of ester oil. Everything brand new, no leaks that I could find.
  18. Recently dug this out of storage. Don't know what a/c system it goes with, maybe it doesn't matter. Needs a boot, some wear and cracking to underside. Nothing visible from the top. Came with screws pictured in the bag i had it stored in and will send along with the part. Asking 49.00 shipped to lower 48 with paypal friends.
  19. I need to wrap the air conditioning hoses (a/c) that run from the compressor to the firewall to protect them from the heat of the exhaust manifold. Can anyone suggest an appropriate material & the source for that material? (Yes, I searched first. ) Thanks! Bob
  20. I have the original a/c components on my 1975 bmw 2002. I need the bushings for the bracket in order to tighten the belt. thanks.
  21. I need the bushings for a/c compressor bracket in order to tighten the belt. thanks
  22. Frigiking A/C unit. Includes evaporator, blower, knobs, and all trim pieces. Only cosmetic issue is the bottom right corner of the front panel broke off. Looks like the previous owner taped it back together. Easy to fix properly with glue. $250 plus shipping from Atlanta. FedEx will be pretty expensive since it requires a large box, or I could ship with Amtrak.
  23. Hi all, I'm getting ready to install A/C on my '75 and I need to replace the expansion valve on my Frigiking evaporator. Does anyone know where to get a new valve? I've looked at a few other topics on this but can't find any definitive answers, just the advice to get a new one. Here are some photos: This this one from Nostalgic A/C looks close - will it work? http://nostalgicac.com/driers-valves/expansion-valves/oring-expansion-valve.html thanks, Garrett
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