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Of course just my opinion but David's gray primered 02 with pink wheels was a big hit. I figured something was up when he popped the hood and I saw those adjustable camber plates. Modified motor, you would never know it. Best part was David flat knows how to drive. He had that car just screaming on the drives..I think his shift point is 6000 all the time LOL His car is in this pic I snapped when we had a temporary breakdown on the drive back. His car is the last 02, just in front of the boxter

Hi guys, im doing an article about the old bmw wheels so i have some questions about these wheels ET. 02 13x4.5 early steelies 02 13x5 early tii steelies E21 13x5 slotted steelies E21 13x5.5 slotted steelies 02 13x5 soup plate alloys and 02 turbo 13x6 soup plate alloys Thanks

I was looking at buying a set of wheels from 949 racing that are for a Mazda Miata. Anyone here used them before. I am currently using Rota Rb 15 x 8's with +4 offset but I still had to use 30mm spacers front and back. Specs: 15x10 +25 offset, 6.45" backside 13.7 lbs 4x100 Low pressure cast monoblock construction T6 heat treated 67.1mm center bore $209 each.

If anyone here (he said guy in Seattle..) bought a set of tan Scheel seats from Josh Brumbaugh in Kent, Ohio, from a bronze 320i with BWA four spoke wheels, please drop me an email. Get your seats? Do you have his cell phone number. I sent funds for BWA caps and a pair of seat sliders over a month ago and no correspondo, no nuthin'. I may need some black-ops assistance in the area (think, flaming bag-o-shit, etc...). And no, stupid sent an official bank check...And yes, stupid is pissed. Thanks, Dave V. in NC

Recently got my 02, and I've noticed the steering is extremely stiff anywhere off center, regardless of speed. It came with vw bbs 6j x 15h2 rims with 35 mm offset. My thinking is it could be one of two things, incorrect alignment ( too much caster?) or incorrect wheels. Can anyone explain offset briefly in terms of positive v negative, I know stock 2002s use 25 mm offsets so does that mean my 35s are too far out, or too far in and require spacers? Thanks!!!

I've searched,but anyone running this size without flares? Strut clearance issues? Thanks. Sorry, et25.

any suggestions on the removal of the center caps on wheels ?

Hey guys, just wanted to start a build thread on my latest project. This past year I have been autoxing my 69 2002 in Street tire FSP (a local region class) and have had a lot of fun with it. I did run into the problem of wanting a competitive car and having a fun car to play on the streets day to day. Luckily i found a rusty but complete 73 for an awesome deal and I'm going to be building it into a FSP car. Lots to do but i dont plan on making it into something pretty. Im also looking for any input you guys would like to share but here are my plans so far Suspension: IE sways F+R (i have 22 and 18mm bars on my other car i may use for tuning) Front coils 400lb/in with shortened struts IE Camber Plates Poly Bushings Rear IE race springs 350in/lb Bilstein sports Rear Toe and Camber Kit Drive: DCOE 40's Long tube header Limited Slip 3.64 Rear (possible ratio change depending on wheel/tire) Mechanical adv dist with petronix (for now) Brakes: Vovlo calipers with 77 320 vented rotors 250mm rear drums (unsure on wheel cylinder size) Wheels: This is where i am undecided still setup 1 for street tire class 205/50-15 Direzza Star Spec Kosei K1 15x7 Or Setup 2 for FSP 225/50-14 Hoosier A6 E30 basket weaves (already own) Here is a link to the car i picked up http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5772052-1973-bmw-2002&p=78389659#post78389659 Here is a shot of me racing my 69 http://bit.ly/Nh7ETo

Hey guys, What size outter lip for a set of BBS RS 001 wheels should I use? I can't remember if it's 1 or 1.5 inch. I purchased these wheels without the outter lips. My car has oem fenders rolled. TIA Phil

Any pictures out there of a 2002 with Turbo arches and 15" Alpina 6"front 7" rear wheels fitted? Are they too big and will f*** up the handling? yes I know I could browse through the lovely "stance thread", which I love, but it is rather long...:-)

Hey fellow 02ers. I started a blogzine called low offset life. The site is still in the works but we have a Facebook page and was hoping to get some support. The theme is geared around low offset wheels (obviously) and how it completes the overall look of your car regardless of make, model or HP output. To kick off the site, I'm also coordinating a meet and greet the first weekend of June for any GA residents or folks in surrounding area close to savannah. I hope to have a good turn out. I'll have my photographer and a canibeat.com photographer there as well. Also, I should have some freebies like stickers and shirts to give away which will be limited to my budget since I've done everything on my own so far. With that being said, please show some support on the Facebook page www.facebook.com/lowoffset Thanks for looking! - Bern

Just thought I might post this up in here. I know wood steering wheels are very common among the '02 crowd, and although most of you guys prefer Nardi wheels, here is a cool alternative at a fraction of the cost. They have the same 6-hole design as all MOMO wheels, and at $40 shipped in the US, you can't really go wrong. I think they look pretty sharp, I ordered one up today. I can't say anything about the quality, but it seems pretty solid to me. http://www.ebay.com/itm/310397223025?_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&item=310397223025&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&vxp=mtr

Came across a set of wheels, 13x6 that would fit a bit wider tires. Don´t know the ET yet.. Would it look like a ´02 on Suzuki wheels..?=) Thinking black "center" and silver rim, might look nice.

find wheels, steering wheels, mudflaps, manuals, parts detailing products, restoration tool supplies, books, posters, excellent camping with clean hot showers, excellent food, all grass - no dirt, live music. Be there Friday May 18 and Saturday May 19 . Italians Cars featured this show - see the new FIAT ABARTH ! http://www.carsatcarlisle.com/events/import/

Does anyone have the setup of the vented rotors and volvo calipers from ie or the kit you put together yourself with the bmw 320is basketweaves for wheels? I am curious as to whether or not they will fit. I have is wheels from a car I parted but I do not want to restore them without being certain that they will fit. I could go with a larger wheel but I do not really want to at the moment nor does the budget allow with the other things I am doing to the car. Thanks

I ran across this photo of the NLA 2002 poster which used to be available on the CCA Foundation website. Right away, I spot C.D.'s ride with painted bottle cap wheels and roof rack. Can anyone else spot their ride (if they still own it)? Edit - I think I see Klaus Schnitzer's modified tii in the Roundel cover photo at the salt pile (I have that Roundel). 2nd row down in the middle maybe??

Back story: Bought a 73 shell awhile back that had a rebuilt e21 LSD installed. Unfortunately when they installed it they neglected to fill it with diff oil. As I was pulling the car home the wheels Locked up in freeway traffic. Finally pulled the diff today and as expected no fluid inside. The gears look ok (to a diff newb at least), and they wiggle a bit when turning the input flange. The Output flanges are seized, will not turn at all. Is there anything that can be done to save this diff? Partial rebuild? Full Rebuild? Something simpler? Video launches by clicking picture below. Please let me know if you need more pictures / info to help diagnose. Thanks in advance!

I have a white 1969 1600 and it has springs that lower it a little bit but no much Im wondering what you think and what is cheaper bags or coil overs? i like the easy hight adjustment of bags, but i hear they are unstable? Also what wheels do you guys like and should I widen my fenders?

I got these years ago and can no longer remember what brand they are. I figured I'd be best off to ask the gurus here why they are. Thanks for the help!!

Please forgive me if this has been covered before, any help is greatly appreciated. Now my question is what's the maximum 15" wheel width that can be fitted on a stock body, I don't mind doing a light fender roll but really trying to keep the body as stockish looking as possible, is an 8" wheel in the rear possible without major pull or flares? In your response please include wheel size, Offset, tire size and brand, and how much camber are you running? TIA. Mohamad.

I was flipping thru some older Roundels looking for VINS and ran across these two: January 1988 (pg 64): 1976 2002. VIN 2375775. Red w/tan interior. Blueprinted and balanced. 45 DCOE Webers, Schrick 316, 12.5:1, 3.90 rear, BMW close ratio 5-speed, 7x13 Hayashi Racing wheels. Lowered, cambered, dynotuned. One quick 2002. Serious inquiries only. $ 10,500. Raine Mantysalo (MD) Raine's ad included a B&W picture January 1984 (pg 57): 1972 2002tii. Malaga w/tan, black interior. Second owner, 116K miles. New paint, valve job, radiator, timing chain, battery, front fenders, grill, chrome trim, floor mats, interior in excellent shape, but needs new carpet. AM/FM, A/C. Ansa exhaust. solid car, runs good. $ 4,500. Mike Pugh (NC) Wonder where these two cars ended up???

I am looking at a set of bottle cap alloys in 5x13 which appear to have the part number of 36 111112 755. Looked at realoem and they don't recognise that number. Are these likely to be the right offset or are they some kind of 3 series wheel? Anyone got the 'right' part number for the correct wheels?

Found the green 02 at Target yesterday. My white one has a new cube mate. The other hot wheels are Mini Coopers...keeping it BMW. Happy Friday! jimalameda '71 2002 '09 Cooper S

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-MKI-MKII-Jetta-GTI-BMW-2002-Honda-Vintage-SPEEDLINE-14-4x100-Wheels-RESTORED-/120965433432?hash=item1c2a1a0858&item=120965433432&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr ET 38 and Hub Bore 57.1, I think will fit, what you all think?

Help me, Obe Wan KeFAQi, you're my only hope. That was really horrible. I'm sorry. My tii is STILL running lean under hard acceleration and WOT. I've tried everything. I'm beginning to suspect the kfish pump itself. I can assure you I have read every thread on this board regarding tii tuning, probably twice. I've written about this in several posts, but let me wrap it all up together: --'72tii bought last Memorial Day, 95k miles, PO said it was stored 10 years before he bought it. On one hand, clearly a loved car, with Konig seats, Bilsteins, ST sway bars, MSW wheels, but on the other hand, the inside of the head is practically black with gum and varnish. --Probably about a total of 350 miles put on it since I bought it (not a lot, I will admit). --The car generally runs well, doesn't blow smoke even when hard on / hard off / hard on the gas to stress the valve guides and seals. --But the car has horrible leakdown numbers (like 40%, all coming past the rings, none past the valves), gobs of positive pressure coming out the oil cap when you take it off, and uneven compression (130 to 160) indicating stuck rings. Soaked for a week in MMO, no change. --Canister fuel filter changed. Fuel screen in kfish pump cleaned. Fuel pressure verified at 40psi when idling and revved (static test). --Valves adjusted. Fresh oil and filter. --Dizzy rebuilt by Advanced Distributors. Correct coil and resistor. New plug wires. New plugs. Pertronix. Timed with ball at 2500rpm. --New Jack Fahuna linkage rods. New center linkage shaft. --Injectors cleaned and tested by Jack Fahuna. --Verified the kfish pump gear is correctly lined up (a.k.a. belt replacement). Even advanced and retarded the pump gear by one and two teeth in both direction and did not see a dramatic difference. --Pulled the intake manifold and throttle body, cleaned, reinstalled with fresh gaskets. --Replaced plastic intake plenums with Top End Performance metal plenums and silicon sealing tubes to be absolutely certain plastic plenums and o-rings aren't causing vacuum leaks. --Verified that the warm-up regulator protrudes about 10cm, that the hat comes off the piston, and that the verboten screw contacts the stop. --Installed a solenoid cut-off valve in the aux air hose to shut it off when warmed up to make sure it's not leaking. (By the way, don't do this. Interesting project, and very effective at making sure you don't have a vacuum leak, but it's causing problems; I don't think it lets enough air pass for a dead cold start.) --Sprayed copious amounts of starting fluid around the intake. I am convinced I do not have a vacuum leak. --Plugged the thin red hose connecting the throttle body to the valve cover breather hose (when it's not plugged, how this isn't the biggest vacuum leak in the world is something I don't understand). --Installed an AEM analog UEGO air-fuel (AFM) meter. When I set synchronize the injection by the book (pinning the pump and the cam in the tuna can), the car runs ridiculously lean -- on acceleration the AFM gauge swings off the scale to the right (lean) and the car feels like it has no power. When I take my foot off the gas it backfires. Thus I am convinced that the lean readings on the AFM gauge are not being faked by extra air in the exhaust by, say, a cracked exhaust manifold. I have spoken with Dave Redszus and heard his explanation that, when these cars were built, the optimum synchronization was set at the factory on a dyno, and THEN the sync point was determined by rotating the hole under the tuna can's cam into position. Trying to sync it up better, I have, one at a time: --As in Jim Gerock's long thread, and as per Dave Redszus' recommendation, moved the sync point so the cam covers 1/4 of the hole, 1/2 the hole, 3/4 of the hole, and the entire hole. When doing so, I can see the mixture getting richer and richer on the AFM, so that at low RPM, it's at 10, but under acceleration and at WOT, it still swings hard lean -- to, or near, the right end of the gauge (18). --I've tried replacing the Jack Fahuna linkage rod with the original rod and making the rod successively shorter, one full turn at a time. Like with moving the sync point above, I can see the change on the AFM gauge, and see it get stupid rich at low RPM, but at WOT it still reads 16. --Screwed the verboten screw in. In order to get it to run at, say, 14 at WOT, I have to screw it in THREE FULL TURNS. This is so far in that the lock nut barely has much screw to bite onto. Note that, with any of these attempts, the AFM gauge is all over the map. It certainly isn't sitting consistently in a tight range as other people describe a correctly functioning tii. Any opinions? I know everyone says to suspect the kfish pump last, but I'm running out of ideas. The only other thing I can think of is if the car doesn't have the original cam. Or if, somehow, the horrible leakdown numbers mean that blow-by is actually leaning out the mixture. But I always thought that blow-by was combustion gasses escaping downward past the rings, not extra air getting sucked upward into the combustion chamber. Thanks. --Rob