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Found 101 results

  1. Does anyone have a UUC sway bar on his or her 2002? Any complaints. The e36 guys don't seem to like them at all. I'm trying to decide between an ST or UUC. Thanks, WillO
  2. So I'm still not clear on the effect of tightening the screw on the box: will that reduce free play in the steering arm or increase resistance at the steering wheel?
  3. Hi I was wondering If I can get some advice on how to soften up my suspension without losing too much of its performance. The suspension was set up back in 1999, it was fine then but now that I'm approaching 50 would like a softer set up. Cars runs on 195/50/15 tires. Urethane bushings. Eibach ( pro kit ? ) I believe . Lowers car 1 to 1.5 inches. Tokico Gaz shocks . K Mac adjustable camber plates. Pros The car rides like its on rails It can switch lanes at 80 MPH on the highway with a flick of the Wrist. Needless to say it handles great. Cons Steering when parked very heavy ! I know this is the tires, but I will keep them for now. It really feels like there"s very little flex in the suspension, very harsh ride . Over bumps at high speed my butt literally leaves my seat almost hitting the headliner ! I'm considering changing the shocks .If so what shock would be compatible with the Eibachs I had a stock Tii in the 90's and remember that it handled great with the factory suspension. Considering going back to Spax or maybe Koni since there adjustable ? Thx in advance
  4. just got my self a set up with koni and eibach springs for my Automatic... wondering how to set the struts to have a comfy ride but just a tad firmer than the oil boge just cant even figure out hot to mechanicaly adjust them lol... but main question is, about the springs long ones front ? short ones rear ? just cant find the info damned...
  5. I went to adjust the steering box on my car - it seems to have a fair amount of play in the steering, and in 25 some odd years of ownership, I've never bothered to try to adjust the box. It seems easy, so I thought I would give it a shot. Per the threads on this wonderful site, I just adjusted it a little bit. It's raining a ton here, so I can't drive around the block to see what difference that made. Here's the question - the adjustment screw was fairly loose. There are a lot of threads showing, FYI. It almost felt like I had to turn the screw 1/4 or 1/2 turn before I met resistance. Is that normal? Should I turn the screw until I hit some resistance, and start with that as my first adjustment? Thanks all, and Happy 4th. Scott
  6. We will be servicing wheel bearings today and checking front struts for spacer (removing if there). I have seen discussion re. tightening suspension under load when re-assembling front suspension, but can't find any specific instructions. It is stated that suspension should not be tightened down with wheels hanging on lift, which makes sense; but there is no specific procedure I can find dealing with the correct procedure. I find in owner's manual what BMW considers regular passenger and cargo load to be. Do I just assemble everything loosely, lower vehicle unto wheels, and then just tighten everything down? Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.
  7. So here's my dilemma. When I added camber plates it raised the front by 1/2" or so. To balance out the rake, a shim was added to the rear. The problem is, it's changed the handling for whatever reason. It's not as comfortable to drive at speed, especially turn in. I would like to lower the car back to where it was. I'm looking for options, the simpler the better. Here's my current setup: Eibach springs (no other info available, installed in '86) Koni shocks (fronts are adjustable) Turbo front bar Dinan adjustable rear bar (mid of 3 settings) Ireland front camber plates Ireland front strut bar E21 5 speed and LSD Bridgestone S03 195/50/15 Panasport 15x6 ET29 Like I said, car was much better before camber plates were installed which raised the ride height a noticeable amount. A slight amount of camber was added to the fronts, but the plates were added mainly to be able to equalize camber left and right. I have a track day coming up at Mosport on August 1st. where I'll be driving people around at speed all day so I really want to get this sorted before then. At the moment it's going to be a real handful. Would lower springs be a easy/viable option? First pic is after camber plates, third is before...
  8. Need to clean my shorts after seeing how much Maximilian wanted for 1 rear shock and spring. Over 300. Per. I dont. believe they can't be found somewhere else. So I'm putting the call out! Any idea's would be great! I have seen some in Germany, but won't ship to States. Bummer! Sway bars would be nice too, but being pre 66 complicates things. Those little difference add up(simple) NOT!! Thanks 02faq?
  9. Is this image enough to ID this wheel? If so what would be a fair offer?
  10. Disassembled the front struts from my tii parts car. Interested in opinions on the condition of the spindles/hubs. Some discoloring and minor(?) pitting on one. Sorry, not great photographs. Do these still hold value? Thanks John Strut 1, view 1: Strut 1, view 2 Strut 2, view 1 Strut 2, view 2
  11. Esteemed colleagues, I have recently redone all of my bushings, shocks, struts, etc and reassembled my car. I dropped my rear subframe to refresh everything, but did the front with the subframe still in the car. Now, I need to install my ST sway bar. So I ask, has anyone done this successfully without dropping the subframe? It looks like a real tight squeeze. I don't mind bending the lower lip to shove the bar under the nose of the car, but getting the ends past everything else (strut tubes, brake lines, etc) looks like it might be pretty impossible. After finally getting my car back together, I really don't want to take it all apart again if I don't have to. Thanks!
  12. Someone told me that there are different dimensional sizes for trailing arms? Everything I see looks the same apart from the boxed-Tii and standard versions. I know it's Friday but I have not touched the kool-ade for a while, like to settle this concern. Justin
  13. I was shopping around for a wooden Nardi steering wheel of the 360mm variety. I found the usual suspects on eBay, all around $308. After searching Google by part number, I came across a vendor on the web called SparcoMOMOnrg. They were selling the wheel for $154.50! http://www.steeringwheel-tuning.com/nardi-nd-classic-steering-wheel-wood-360mm-5061-36-3000 I figured what do I have to lose? I'll be the guinea pig. I'll just make sure I use a good credit card, where I can dispute charges if anything fishy happens. So I went ahead and made the purchase, or at least I tried to make the purchase. One thing I noticed, as I was pulling the trigger was that it was not a secured https site, but I proceeded anyway. After I entered all my credit card credentials, I pushed the confirm button and the website coughed up a message saying that there was an error with my credit card. I thought perhaps I entered the wrong numbers, so I tried again. Again, I got the same message. Later on in the day, my credit card company called me asking me about suspicious transactions. The company name they told me was different than the website company by a long shot. I explained what happened and they said they would block the transaction from going through, since I was to receive no merchandise. Just wanted to shout out to the community about this new fraudulent scammer out there. Caveat emptor.
  14. Once again I turn to BMW2002FAQ gurus... So for the first time in my life, I went ahead and did the front suspension , steering rehab (Many thanks to FAQ community!) The steering feels stiff and on point, finally! However, not perfect yet... Issue #1: Clunking noise coming from somewhere in the front, when going even slow through, for example, small cracks in the road (quick/short impacts to the suspension). It sounds like some, possibly metal part is hitting something, not terribly loud but annoying sound. Comes from both sides, however, right side seems to be more noisy. This noise was even present before suspension rehab I just finished today. Issue #2: Steering wheel still a bit shaky 50+mph. Before it was much, much worse, but was hoping this will be sorted out after all of this work. Issue #3: Not necessarily related, as it existed before rehab and remains the same now - Shifter is shaking pretty heavily. Engine mounts and transmission mount has been changed about ~2 months ago (Ireland engineering mounts). Hoped it will fix the issue, but it never did. --------- What has been done to suspension within last week: - New Bilstein HD inserts - New top strut mount bearings - New ball joints - New control arm bushings - New center rod - New tie rods - New wheel bearings What has NOT been done during the rehab/yet: - Used old rubber spring pads (sort of beat up) top and bottom ones. - Haven't done the alignment yet. Thanks for taking your time to read through all of this...
  15. FYI, Walloth and Nnesch has some really good pricing on front steering parts: 1 ea. 32 21 1 103 077 Center steering rod fits for all models and years 1 1 62,98 62,98euros 2 ea. 32 21 1 114 844 Inner balljoint fits for all models and years of m 2 1 17,61 35,22 euros 3 32 21 1 114 842 Outer steering balljoint fits for all models and y 2 ea. 1 14,24 28,48euros 4 32 21 1 103 076 Outer tie rod complete fits for all models and yea 2 ea. 1 35,92 71,84 euros 5 VEX003 DHL International EXPRESS DAP 1 1 45,00 45,00 total for all 7 parts with shipping comes to about $275, if you go through US sources for all of this, the parts alone are about $535 Ernest
  16. Hey Guys, WHAT's THE THOUGHT'S ON STAGG SHS HIGH PERFORMANCE SHOCKS & VOGTLAND SPRINGS??
  17. Hi, I want to remove the strut bearing. I have never done this job before. Reading the factory manual says that I am going to need to compress the spring using a compressor. Which I don't have but will source. What it doesn't say is, how much do I compress the spring? Just enough to take the tension of the spring capping? I just don't want to compress anymore then needed. Also - Given that I want to clean and spray the struts at the same time - is it important to make sure the left spring goes back on the left side and right spring on the right? Thanks Raj
  18. Hey 02'ers! What would you recommend for economic coil springs, sway bars and shocks/struts? I’m almost 53 years old and not looking to race may 1972, 2002, Two Barrel baby and the wife has me on a $300 a month budget! I want it lowered 1.25 to 1.50 inch and a good ride! I’m also considering an electronic ignition, what would you guys recommend? Some of the forums I’ve read don’t seem to have great things to say about the Plantronics, should I change my Bosch coil when I go to electronic?? thank you all in advance!!
  19. My 72 came w/ a close/quick ratio steering box. Does anyone know whether worn steering gears can be refurbished if I'm willing to fork out enough $$ to a machine shop? If someone had done this successfully and had good results, I'd love to hear some details. This damaged box has been sitting on a shelf for 6 years, but I think I've developed the arm strength to wield it if I can get it repaired Mark
  20. Installing my rear sway bar and something just doesn't look right.....see below. I've done a few adjustments, and I keep getting one that's a bit off. Thoughhts? Also, do I need bolts on the brackets that hold it in place on the rear frame?. I don't think so, but wanted to ask. As always, thanks for the insights!
  21. Apologies if this has been discussed before, but I cannot this information elsewhere. I am interested in learning about the variations of the Bus Type Steering wheels used on the 2002s. I know that some have the exposed black metal spokes with one indentation per spoke, and that the 1968's had the smooth horn pad. I have also seen pictures of wheels having horn buttons on each of the 3 spokes. What years were these used on? Did all wheels have the brushed-metal "cap" at the outer end of each spoke? Also, was there a difference between Bus steering wheels used on the tii, vs. non-tii? Thank you for your help!
  22. Sorry for the simple nature of this question, but I am uncertain about how this is going together and it is a rather important part of the car, a '75. Lots of searching but nothing definitive found. I am simply attaching new stock discs onto the front stock hubs with the 4 hex head bolts. I ordered new bolts (M10 x 25) as spec'd and am using a lock washer as is shown on the realOEM images... But when I get the hex bolts snugged almost to torque and look at the other side, there is almost half the threads left in the hub hole. I know the ends of the hex bolts can't protrude beyond the hub surface, but seems like they should fill up more of the hub hole. When I remove the lock washer, it is better, but still a few threads left. So a couple questions... - Should I use the lock washer and Loctite and assume the depth of penetration is OK ? - Should I skip the lock washer and use Loctite ? - Should I use the lock washer and NO Loctite.. this seems the least safe in my view. Thanks all for your expertise.... Randy
  23. So a good friend of mine, who has been fantastic about helping with the build of my car despite the fact that it isn't rotary powered or Japanese, has almost completely convinced me to go with a short stroke coilover setup. After discussing it with him I started my inevitable trip to the interweb to see exactly what can be done for our cars. Here is what I have found, and hoping someone can let me know if I am on the right path 1 - VW Rabbit cartridge for the fronts and sport inserts for the rear 2 - 1985 Toyota MR2 rears for the front and 1994-2000 for the rears (but have to sleeve these as the bolt is 12mm versus the 10mm found on our cars) Initially I was going to go with an IE stage 2 setup and call it good, as my track time would be fairly limited with the lack of clubs in the area but my friend travels to track his car and has room on his trailer. Is this information correct and is one of them better than the other? Thanks for taking the time to read this and thanks for your input Cheers
  24. Greetings Sirs and Sirettes! My 73 2002 has stock rims but larger e21 size tires (185/80) I notice that the steering is very heavy when turning even at higher speeds. Its heavy compared to my already heavy, non-power assisted E21. I'm wondering if these thicker tires affect the steering? Or maybe 2002's are like that... Also, my rims are black, but I notice many are silver/gray. Did some come in black from the factory? Thanks!
  25. My '74 2002tii had the original oil filled dampers in the front struts. I'm trying to replace them with new Bilstein shocks but they seem VERY tight. So tight I can't get them in! I thought removing them was supposed to be the hard part! I'm wondering if my struts are incompatible with the new shocks. Does anyone know? From my attached pics can anyone tell me if the struts are supposed to have the inner sleeve mine have? The very top of the inner sleeves seem to be messed up a little bit, but the rest of the tube is in perfect condition. I've tried pulling back the tops to allow the new struts in, but it doesn't seem to be enough. I can only get them in a couple of millimetres.


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