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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

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Found 15,959 results

  1. I spent some time searching the FAQ for a setup I could use for baseline setting for my Weber 38/38 but I know jetting is dependent on engine specs so I was hoping on getting your help on a good starting point for my jetting. I recently switched from dual 40 Dells to a 38/38 downdraft as an experiment. The 'out of the box' performance and drivability is acceptable, but I know there is MUCH room for improvement. This is my current engine setup: Stock M10 bottom end with piano tops. E12 head with Schrick 292 cam and springs. IE heavy duty rockers and locks. IE shorty header. OEM intake manifold port matched to 38/38 base gasket. IE intake manifold water bypass. Complete MSD ignition. New Weber 38/38 carb. I have a wide-band O2 kit I bought as part of the group buy here, but I haven't figured out where to mount the O2 sensor yet. I have the weld in bung. (40 inches from closest spark plug?) I'm also not sure if my pending 5-speed conversion might cause some exhaust rework. Thanks in advance for you help and support. I got a ton of feedback when I was setting up my Dells. Now I hope to get the same great support for the Weber 38/38. No haters please. I still have my sexy dual Dell setup and the water bypass is still installed. I can revert to sidedrafts if/when necessary. BEFORE: AFTER:
  2. Hey everyone, Im looking at doing an engine swap to a M42 engine with 5 speed transmission from a early 90s 318i. I was wondering was if someone could link me to a post/blog where this had been done before? Ive heard that as far as conversions go its not a particularly difficult one...but who knows my sources might be unreliable. Thanks guys.
  3. Hi, My name is Robert Karlsson, and I run a engine/dyno shop in Sweden called Dynotech. You might recognize my 740whp M10 powred 1602 turbo here on 2002faq. I have been testing and working on making a decent good rockerarm that will actually work and not cost an arm and one leg. There is a gap of decent rockerarms, there are alot of rockers out there and none of them are 100% ... I have tested them all, and will not tell any brands or names to seem partial, but if you need to know just PM me. The rockerarm costruction is tho a comprimise. I don't like compromises (for you who have seen my engine know that). There is possible to make a good and strong rockerarm with right material and radius on the pads, but the wearing problem will still be there. To hot oil, less decent oil or strong valvesprings and high revs, diffrence in base cicles etc etc. Therefor to overcome these problems the best solusion on this problem is a roller rocker. And this will not be some 3rd party rocker, my thoughts when making this rocker is to call it "the rockerarm" it will replace everything out there on the market. Well it sounds cocky but when you put alot of work time and effort into making a new rockerarm, why not go 110% ? So what is the benefits with a roller rockerarm compared to a OEM? With the right size and position of the roller will give us better rockerarm geometry, better valve curve, you can use less valve clearance = less valve sound, no wearing problems at all it also support more springpressure whitch is needed to rev 10-11.000rpms without valvefloat and wearing problems. My rockerarm will also support more valve lift (15+ mm), in short terms you can make a camshaft with less duration and more valvelift = a better camshaft, more low and midend torque and more peak power. So why have not anyone already done this? First of, its very hard to calculate the optimum rocker geometry and to know the best and most optimized roller size etc, and last to actually have machines to make it. 2nd and the biggest problem, most engine shops have a analog camshaft grinder whitch means that you have to make a master camshaft for each model of camshafts you want to make. This makes its very expensive to make small batches of diffrent camshafts. I have access to a cnc camshaft grinder and that gives me the possibility to make make camshfts without any masters. That means I can make just one custom camshaft and the cost is about the same. This also means that if you want to use these rockerarms and you are already very pleased with you're camshaft I can tell me what cam it is or if its custom I will copy it in my camshaft measurment equipment and send the caminfo to the cnc grinding machine and it will recalculated the acceleration, valvelift, duration and open/close timing for my roller rockers geometry. I have designed 4 N/A camshafts and 4 turbo camshafts that will be in stock. Or I can help you with making you a custom camshaft after you're setup. The rocker itself is made in a 5axis cnc milling machine, the valve adjustment is the famous porsche adjustment screw with a custom milled fastning nut in titanium. The inner roller bearing ring will be machined in titanium also the roller axle will be in TI to make it as strong as possible but still as light as possible to have it support over 10000rpms as my engine revs. Also another feature that will come with this design is that you can change the camshaft without moving you're rockerarms, you will just simply remove the rollers (just with locking clip) and you can take out the camshafts just pulling it forward, very time saving for me when testing all camshafts in my dyno for example. Everyting is drawed and simulated with 10 diffrent roller sizes and diffrent positions in our special valve geomety cad progaram CAD software to find the most optimized roller size and position and pattern. I have worked on every little detail nothing is left for chance, enither in material or drawing and tolerances. the cnc machine have a tolerance of 0.0005-0.001" .. The final have a bit bigger roller becouse that gives me better valve curve geometry and less negative radius on the camshaft, but less ratio and that compensates with a little smaller base circle. This rocker have been tested hours in my dyno to make sure it really works and will last. My goal is to be able to sell one M10 kit of these highend exotic roller rockers for around 1000usd. And a custom steel camshaft for around 500. Since these rockers have been made to be able to handle more valve lift I'm working on a very cool split cam solution for those who does not want to make their cambearings bigger in the cylinderhead to reach more than 13mm valve lift. It acutally means that the camshaft will be in 2 peaces and you mount it and lock in when both peaces are inline position. This will make you 15-16mm valve lift without modifying you're camshaft bearings. With standard M10 lenght of valves depends on you're valve guidance height and retainer measurement, will be around 13mm valve lift as max. To solve this I will have valves that a a few mm longer and also longer valveprings support the longer valves. More about this later. stage one kit) 8x dynotech roller rockerarms 1x camshaft (either a copy of you're existing one or you can choose one of my camshafts that will use the "extra" benefits in valve geometry the roller rocker supports. stage two kit) 8x dynotech roller rockerarms 8x rockerarm locks 1x custom camshaft (you choose exacly what you want up to 13mm lift 8x dubble valvesprings with CrMo retainers supporting 10000rpms+ stage three kit) 8x dynotech roller rockerarms 8x rockerarm locks 1x custom camshaft split cam 15-16mm lift 8x dubble valvesprings with CrMo retainers supporting 10000rpms+ 4x 48 or 50mm intake SS valves with longer shaft. 4x 39mm SS or inconel for turbo valves with longer shafts This technique can easly be moved to M30 and M20 engine also. Is there anyone intressted in taking you're M10 engine to the next level with these rockers ?
  4. Spray castle nuts with penetrating oil several times over a course of a few days and let it to break loose surface tension rust and corrosion. Jack up and support vehicle Remove tire Remove cotter pin Replace tire and lower car to ground Apply parking brake and car in Neutral Loosen up castle nut with 36mm socket and long handlebar Jack up and support vehicle again and release parking brake Remove tire, castle nut and drum brake Heat hub for about 15 minutes. Rotate hub as your heating it. Pull off driving flange/hub with extractor Detach output shaft / CV shaft from axle shaft and tie it up Screw on castle nut with notches facing brakes, then use soft hammer to drive axle shaft out Outboard Inboard Pry out inboard and outboard sealing rings. From inboard side drive out outboard bearing with soft punch (brass) and hammer. Now shim ring (if any) and spacer sleeve can be removed from outboard side. Now can easily remove inboard ball bearing with punch and hammer. It is imperative that circular shim and spacer sleeve for each wheel kept separate if rear wheels bearings removal done at once. Wipe inside with paper towels and spray inside with brake cleaner. New bearings and seals Next, Pack bearings with grease and grease sealing rings lip Install inboard bearing. I used 1-1/2” dia. PVC coupling and plug to drive bearing in against bearing bore stop. Coat sleeve spacer outside with 35 grams grease and then insert sleeve to the cavity from outboard. Insert shim ring then, install outboard bearing making sure it is seating against shim Install inboard and outboard seals Insert axle shaft from inboard side all the way in Install hub/ driving flange. May need to use hammer on face of hub to seat it in Tighten castle nut with 36mm socket Replace drum brake Install tire and lug nuts Put rear wheels on ground Apply hand brake Secure front and back of rear tire with objects to prevent it from rotational movement Tighten castle nut to specified torque And for last time Jack up and support vehicle Remove tire Install cotter pin and bend tabs Put tire back on and tighten lug nuts Lower the car and torque lug nuts to 65 ft-lb This post has been promoted to an article
  5. Gentlemen: Several threads on the M42 Engine swap, but can't seem to locate anything on an M44 engine swap. I was told that the M44 is almost identical to the M10 and it's production was based off of it. Any information or sites would be helpful. http://project-schnitzer.blogspot.com looks great for the M42. Thanks
  6. I recently came across a 1975 2002 on Craigslist that I'm sort of interested in. The poster mentioned that it's in good running condition, and that "all gears work except revers you have to stall the car put it in revers start it and then it work." I don't have much experience diagnosing issues like this, so I'm curious if you know what could be the root cause of this issue (so that I can know if it's within my budget to fix it). Is it something that would require a transmission swap, or something smaller?
  7. Hello all, I am bringing the links over from my exhaust thread a while back. Add to it at will.. I'm bringing the links here for searchability. This doesn't include header offerings in the conversation.. 1. Supersprint (Squaretail) $$$$ http://www.bmpdesign.com/category-exec/category_id/100/part_criteria[search_year]/1974/part_criteria[search_model]/5/ 2. Abarth $$$$ http://www.abarth-exhausts.com/bmw/ 3. Sebring Reproduction $$$ https://www.wallothnesch.com/sebring-sportauspuffanlage-aus-edelstahl-18-01-00.html 4 Ansa $$$ http://www.ansaautomotive.com/make/bmw/ 5. Ireland engineering $$$ http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-exhaust.html 6. Top End Performance $ + $$$ http://www.racetep.com/automaker/bmw/headers/2002-or-320i-exhaust-components.html 7. Eisenmann ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) http://ind-distribution.com/eisenmann/brands/eisenmann/eisenmann-bmw-e10-02-series-performance-exhaust 8. Stock Turbo Replacement $$$$ http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2291-EUR-08-1974-114-BMW-2002turbo&diagId=18_0331 9. Full Custom $$$-$$$$$ Your shop, your parts. Waldron (Just found these guys, looks promising) http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22_382 Magnaflow https://www.magnaflow.com/automotive-performance/mufflers/straight-through/
  8. Tii Piston Help

    I'm in the midst of rebuilding the motor on my '72 tii. Pulled the pistons last weekend to find what is pictured below on the cyl 2 and 4 pistons. No major scoring on the skirts, just the pitting on the edge of the crown as shown in the pictures below. 1. What would cause this to occur? 2. Are my pistons toast? 3. If the answer to 2 is "yes" does anyone have a set of Mahle 89.97 9.5:1 piano tops for sale, or know where I should start looking? TIA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. My brake pedal is not returning back fast enough and it leaves the brake lights on. When the pedal is depressed and starts its return, the pedal pauses (sticks) and then continues forward. I had someone follow me and radio back to me what they saw as I drove. The brake lights stayed on after I used the brakes then would go off or I would pull the brake pedal with my foot. I first noticed the issue after I had the emergency brake adjusted. I lubed everthing in the pedal box and anything I could reach in the engine bay. I ran it without carpet or pedal box cover. At first it looked like the lube worked, but its still sticking. What do y'all think. Is this as simple as replacing the return spring (ordered already) or a more serious problem that I am not aware of? Happy Memorial Day, Ozzy "People sleep peaceably in their beds at night because rough men are willing to do violence on their behalf." (George Orwell)
  10. I need your help… Intro: I’ve done a fair amount of searching on this site and google. I have found some info but it’s all never straight forward and I often find something to contradict whatever I previously found. I’m trying to get my 2002 on the road before I need to store it for the winter (very soon in Montreal). Once I get this settled, I could take her for a test spin around the block, which I’m DYING to do J. Background/Specs: Warning, I’m an amateur. My ‘02 came with a DCOE 45 setup, it ran “well” although I believe it was running rich. During my 2002 refresh project I removed the carbs, disassembled & cleaned them + put back together with all new gaskets. I noted down the specs. During that process the folks at redline recommend I put block off plates in place of the cold start mechanism, which I did. I set the brass float (no fuel in them) height to ~8.5mm & ~15mm. I re-opened them Thursday to double check this. Although I did read that one person on here said 8.5 & 12.5mm. The fuel pressure is regulator is regulated to 3.5/3.6psi, which I read should be fine for the setup. I do plan on lowering it to 3 though. The 02 came with: Crane XR700 ignition, 292 cam, 10:1 compression I put new plugs: NGK BP5ES, gapped at 0.037” (same as previous gap) I bought a Synchrometer and an INNOVA Advanced timing light. Situation/Questions. - I’m able to get the motor going with some effort and by fiddling with the distributor, following the redline “Initial setup” o Idle speed, ½ turn in after contact with lever o Idle Mixture screw 1 ½ turns out …and pumping the pedal down (WOT) on what I think is more than normal for cold start - The motor shakes a bit - I felt a bit of liquid below the block off plates, just enough to moisten my figure, I believe it was gas. Once the motor is running, I become a deer in frozen in the headlights… like I don’t know what to do anymore it’s horrible. I’ve read multiple things that my timing should be correct before touching the carburetors but if they’re not synchronized wouldn’t that give me a hard time with the timing. Like what do I do first? 1. Synchronize the carbs, 2. Panic, 3.Timing..etc? I will do the timing off the flywheel (the TDC on pulley doesn’t line up with the oil rail & flywheel TDC). What do I set my timing at, I’ve read all kinds of different things none make me feel confident. The closest I got to an answer was 32-33 degrees at 3000RPM and even at that I'm not confident. Please help me guys, I’m getting very discouraged. Thanks a lot! Anthony
  11. Hi, While I'm waiting for my manual, can someone describe to me the procedure of adjusting the valves on M10? What is the clearance for the intake and exahust and what is the best way to turn the engine? I used 24mm socket on my other car. Also what is the best way to determine TDC? Thank you.
  12. 1970 2002...OK. the slave cylinder is done.. time for the master. Do I need to pull the pedal box for this? Ive been reading other posts and it sounds like I might. not sure tho. been through 4 different manuals but they all feature older/newer/different models.. but not mine If I pull the hydro lines and get the bolts off... I think I maybe answering my own question... the nuts are in the pedal box. gotta pull the carpet and plate to get to the nuts and clutch pedal connection right? anything else I may or may not need to consider? Thanks for any help!
  13. Has anyone used the K & N Weber DGV Snorkel? I saw it on the K & N website and wondered about its value. On a relatively stock engine, would it choke the amount of air?
  14. Bought an Ireland mechanical distributor back in November for my 1976 2002 desmogged but mostly stock (Weber 38/38 manual choke) in November for $180 (good price!), and it has performed nicely until a couple of days ago. Engine just died and wouldn't restart. Had it towed home and begun my investigation. Fuel system working properly. Measured 12 volts at coil and top of distributor. Fuses all good. Distributor rotor turning properly. Rotor and cap looked good. Timing good. Battery strong. But, aha, no spark at the plugs. Figured it must be internal to dizzy. A call to Ireland revealed that the ignitor (similar to Pertronix, which replaces points/condenser) was probably bad. New complimentary ignitor on the way from Ireland. Will install this weekend and report back. Ireland advised to not leave ignition on unless engine running, which has always been my practice. Anyone else have this happen?
  15. Recently my brake pedal went soft on me and would go all the way to the floor to achieve maybe 30% brake force. So I replaced the booster and master cylinder. (Booster was filled with rusty old fluid) After bleeding three times, once with a pressure bleeder and twice manually, the brake pedal still goes all the way to the floor and I still only get about 30% brakes. During bleeding I get good fluid flow from all 8 nipples and no air bubbles. Pedal also goes hard after bleeding but once you fire up engine, pedal get soft again. Im not certain what the problem is. (New front and rear brakes and SS lines installed 1000 miles ago) Only thing in the brake system that isn't new is the booster vacuum line and check valve. Could that make my brakes soft?
  16. Trying to figure out if anyone knows what this is...thanks
  17. I finally got to set the dwell with the engine running... just like my old '72 Chevy Suburban
  18. Howdy, Back at the project '74 tii this weekend. I'm getting around to changing the transmission fluid and differential fluid. On the differential, I searched the FAQ and saw that 75w90 is the preferred fluid, but the the transmission fluid recommendations vary in relation to the type / age of the transmission. The transmission in the 74 tii project has been replaced with a 5 speed, so I'm hoping that one of you experts can tell me which 5 speed this is and what fluid to put in. I'm not looking to ordering Redline fluid, just pick some appropriate fluid up at the auto parts store. If someone know the which transmission this is and the correct fluid and amount that would be most helpful. and if anyone has any thoughts on replacing this brake cylinder I'd appreciate that too. Here are pictures.
  19. cylinder honing

    doing some m10 cylinder block refreshing and wanting to know if any of you could give some advice on cylinder honing iv got a 90mm bore considering using a flex hone 180 grit the closest match i could find is a 4 inch flex hone witch is about 100mm also what is the best technique (fast hard and deep) or (slow and smooth) with lots of lube?
  20. Good morning at all, After the gaskets kit for this pump, I just share my last experience about the pistons of the kugelfischer pump. I machined 2 pumps, one for 6.6mm od and 7.5mm od for the pistons, in the same time i removed the spring washer and the snap ring, i used the same material for the piston with heat treatment to have the same hardness, you can see the pictures of the set up: i think we will have news of the 7.5mm pump in this month, it's on the car but it take time to set the pump and the rest of the engine. Regards, Greg
  21. @wegweiser made me embrace the creep. No, this doesn't mean I hugged some weirdo, it means that after my last post regarding mission creep leading from alternator bushing replacement to timing cover removal and oil sump removal, I followed his advice and paddled onto the rising wave. Fuelled on by @echappe, I hurtled down its face and found myself here: Here's what I found at a glance: - Bucketloads of carbon and residue on the crowns - Cylinders still display honing marks, with some polishing at the apex but no discernible ridge to feel (no I don't have a bore gauge). Slight polishing where piston skirts have been contacting on all 4 cylinders. - Crankshaft and con rods seem very good; all bearings are in excellent condition with no scoring and minimal wear, axial play is well within spec, journals look excellent BUT there is a little wear on the piston skirts as per the above (no I don't have a micrometer). - Piston ring grooves are over spec by around .05-.08mm so perhaps the pistons are pivoting on the rings?? For those who are frowning, yes it will be going to the engineers for proper measurements in the next few days, I just thought for completeness I would mention the above. I will, of course, update with the actual results. I haven't measured ring gap as I didn't want to tap the rings into the cylinders with those carbon riddled pistons. Anyhow, not super pretty thus far but here's where it gets properly ugly. When I first got the car I rejuvenated a lot of stuff including the fuel and water hoses. What I drained out of the radiator I remember as being an insipid grey liquid with no trace of coolant colour. It smelt weird and just looked wrong. When I pulled the cylinder head off here's what I found: The head measures to 29.1mm and doesn't seem to have ever been skimmed. So is this corrosion repairable or should I start hunting down a new head? I'm already in deep on this one so tell it to me straight. All the best, Daniel
  22. Drained and filled the the transmission fluid of my newish 5 speed yesterday. Thought it would be good insurance since I don't know how long the the transmission had sat in the back of the shop before it found a new home in my car. The shop drained and filled the transmission as part of the work with Redline MTL but I wanted to refill it anyway after using the car for 500 miles or so. The shop swears by Redline MTL fluid so I decided to refill with the same, I was quite surprised on how thin that oil really is, but I heard good things about it in our older transmissions. The stuff I bought comes in the yellow bottle and is fully synthetic. Transmission shifts smooth and is pretty quiet so I'm probably good to go, just taken aback on how watery that stuff is. I was able to get about 1.6L pumped in before it started to run out the fill hole.
  23. The tome that no one asked for… The FanTome Gourmet (Too subtle? Too foodie? Too weird? Too much time on my hands?) Finding Replacement Fan Blades for the Fan in the Heater Box (Better?) When I took apart my heater box, ostensibly to deal with the fact that the foam had dissolved off the flaps, allowing huge amounts of outside air in (a detriment to my freshly-resurrected air conditioning system), it made sense to address anything the heater box needed while I was in there. I rebuilt the heater box as per the excellent instructions here on the FAQ. The heater fan motor worked without squealing, but when spinning the fan blades with my finger, I could feel a rough spot in the bearing. I tried dripping sewing machine oil onto the bearing, but it made little difference. I’m usually not a slippery slope guy, but the idea of the fan dying and having to pull out the evaporator console and heater box and crack the heater box open a second time gave me pause. So I looked at replacing the fan motor. I was stunned to see the nearly $300 cost for a new motor with the fan blades attached. I looked here on the FAQ and found posts relating to use of a nearly-identical Porsche electric motor, Porsche part number 0130007081, costing about $60 through several online sources. However, there were three issues: 1) The Porsche part came without fan blades. 2) The Porsche part spun in the opposite direction. 3) This part number is only valid if you have a later-style fan motor (I’ll come back to this). The second issue can easily be handled by crimping on new connectors to the wires and reversing the leads to the fan. But the business of it coming without fan blades is problematic. Note that the original fan blades can be reused; Mike Self reports: If your old fan motor is dead, dead, dead and can't be revived, simply saw through the armature between the fan and motor housing, the tap the shaft through the fan hub. Place the hub/shaft on top of a 3/8 drive deepwell socket and use a hammer & punch to knock the shaft out. Be sure and note exactly where the fan is situated on the shaft so when installed it won't hit the heater housing. However, my original motor wasn’t dead, and I didn’t want to risk damaging the blades. I thought “how hard can it be to source, if not the original fan blades, a set that are close enough?” The answer is – harder than you’d think. Initially I thought that the problem was the size of the shaft on the fan motor, but that’s only one issue. I measure the shaft as about 0.24”, but others report that it’s metric, exactly 6mm (0.236”). My web-sleuthing Kung Fu is pretty good (we all have things we can get obsessive-compulsive over), but, try as I might, I could not find a source for a fan with a metric bore. However, there are several sources for small aluminum fans with fractional bore sizes, as these are widely used in the HVAC industry. The closest bore sizes to 6mm are 3/16” (0.1875”, substantially smaller) and ¼” (0.25”, slightly larger). I decided to take one for the team, order a whole bunch of these fans, and try them out. Fortunately they’re cheap. In the end, it would’ve been far easier to simply drop the $300 and buy the new fan with the blades on it, but I’ve done this. As your Hack Mechanic. I did this ridiculous thing. For you. (Any “My Cousin Vinny” fans in the audience?) Seriously, in the part of my life that generates income, I’m an engineer, and there’s a part of me that, when it wants to know the answer to something, just won’t let go. I pursued this thing way past the point of reason. Let’s start with the original fan blades. What’s pictured is out of my early ’72 tii. This is a five-bladed fan, about 5 ½” in diameter, with a 6mm bore. As you can see, the blades are curved (quite beautifully, actually) for counter-clockwise (CCW) rotation as you’re looking at the front of the fan. The blades are held in place with top-mounted hub with a press-on nylon bushing. In contrast, every replacement fan I found (listed below) has a hub with a little Allen set screw instead. Note how the curve of the fan blades faces front. That’s the discharge side of the fan, the side that blows into the car. Most fans have a preferential direction; it just happens that the original curved blades make the preferential direction very easy to see. If you put fan blades on upside down, it is not going to blow in the opposite direction (just try it). For straight-bladed fans you can simply reverse the direction of the motor, but for curved-bladed fans, the curved faces of the blades must face in the direction you want the air to go, and you must spin the motor so the base of the curve scoops the air. For the original fan, that’s counter-clockwise. As people have noted, the Porsche replacement fan motor (and, according to Jim Gerock, even the BMW replacement motor) spins in the opposite direction (clockwise versus counterclockwise). So if you’re using the original fan blades on a motor that spins clockwise, you must reverse the wires at the fan motor to spin it counter-clockwise. However, we’re trying to find a replacement fan, and since many fan blades are available in both CW and CCW orientations, all other factors being equal, perhaps we can find a fan that spins CW (the natural direction of the new motor) and leave the wires in place. The problem is, as I explain below, that all other factors aren’t equal; it’s challenging to find one that fits. Since the application for most of these small replacement fans is HVAC, some of the fans have intake and exhaust variants. That is, some of the fans have the hub on the intake (back) side, and some have the hub on the discharge (front side). If you imagine a fan shoehorned inside a piece of machinery or behind a refrigerator, the location of the hub becomes important. If you’re sliding a fan down onto a shaft, you can’t reach the Allen set screw on the hub to tighten it if the hub is on the “wrong” side. Note that, because the curved faces of the blades must face forward, the hub orientation cannot be changed by simply turning the fan over or reversing the direction of the motor. Let’s look at how the stock fan fits in the housing. As you can see from the picture below, the tops of the fan blades are just about flush with the top of the well in the housing. If they come up any higher, the fan hits the heater flap when it is opened. This is a fundamental constraint you have to live within. The way the fan sits down in the well is possible because the hub is on the front (the discharge side). It’s nestled inside the pitch of the fan blades. It doesn’t take up any extra space. If the hub were on the back (the intake side), it would act like a big spacer, pushing the fan blades forward and causing a clearance problem. This turns out to be a crucial limitation on which fans you can use and which you can’t. Just to confuse things, note that Jim Gerock reports that the fan on a very early fan motor of his doesn’t have a plastic press-on hub on the discharge side – it has a hub on the intake side with an Allen set screw, raising the possibility that this fan can be easily removed and reused. Then again, Jim reports not being able to pull these fan blades off after loosening the set screw. Jim supplied the photo below. The fan blades look shallower and less curved than the fan on my ’72 and other fans I’ve seen pictures of. The total front-to-back height of the fan blades is also crucial. On the original fan from my car, it’s 1.25”, as shown below. So what we want is a fan: · 5 ½” in diameter · Whose bore is 6mm · With the hub on the front (discharge) side · Whose front-to-back depth is no greater than 1.25”, but as close to it as possible to maximize air movement Put another way, the original fan is perfect and should be reused if possible. But, damn it, I’m in this up to my hips. I’m going to see this through to the end and give a recommendation. Let’s step through my candidate replacement fans. Rather than jump to the answer, I’m going to go through these in the order I bought and tested them. Note that not all spec sheets list the cubic feet per minute (CFM) a fan moves, or list it at a consistent RPM, so a rigorous comparison of CFM difficult. First is the cheapie 10-blade fan from McMaster-Carr: Manufacturer: Unknown Source: McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) Part Number: 17545K66 Diameter: 5” Blades: 10 Pitch: 45 Bore: 3/16” Direction: CW Hub: Intake Front-to-back: About 1” CFM: 190 @max of 4200 Price: $3.41 (I believe this is the same as Grainger AIR-DRIVE AD5CW 3/16 Other posters have made reference to this same fan here on the FAQ. McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) is quite simply the best industrial website in the world, sort-able by virtually any database tag you can imagine. Their web site is instantly addictive. Just try it. Type in “rubber.” You want sheets of rubber? Balls of rubber? Blocks of rubber? What hardness? What thickness? What temperature rating? You’ll still be looking 20 minutes later. They ship quickly and inexpensively and are rarely out of stock. McMaster has a good assortment of fans, but only one this small. 5” is the closest McMaster comes; they have no 5 ½” fan. The McMaster catalog lists the direction for this fan as CW, but it doesn’t say which side the hub is on. If you look at the picture above, you’ll see a slight curving of the fan blades. The curves need to face front. Note that this puts the hub on the bottom – on the intake side, not the discharge side. This is the opposite orientation from the stock fan. At $3.41, this thing is dirt-cheap, but you get what you pay for – as you can see from the pics, it is primitive, with unfinished corners and edges that are wicked sharp. Also, the aluminum is somewhat thin, making the blades easy to bend. I ordered several of these, and those that arrived in a bubble-wrap envelope (as opposed to a box) had bent blades. But I thought, man, drill out the bore to 6mm and for $3.41, I’m done. Unfortunately, that proved more challenging than I ever would’ve thought. Even doing my best to clamp the fan so it was flat and on-center, drilling did not prove successful for me. The enlarged hole I drilled is noticeably off-center (see below), and when installed on the fan motor shaft, the blades wobble slightly. Perhaps others have more skill than I do, but if I have to take a three dollar fan to a machinist to enlarge the bore, the cost-effectiveness vanishes. So I began looking at fans with a larger ¼” bore. The first one appears for all the world to be the same 10-blade fan, just with a ¼” bore. Surprisingly, McMaster doesn’t list it in their catalog, but Grainger does. Manufacturer: Unknown Source: Grainger (www.grainger.com) Part Number: 4C468 Diameter: 5” Blades: 10 Pitch: 45? Bore: 1/4” Direction: CW Hub: Intake Front-to-back: About 1” CFM: ? Price: $3.04 As with the McMaster version with the 3/16” bore, you have to flip it upside down and put the hub at the bottom to spin it so the curved blade faces point up and push the air. With the hub on the bottom, does this fan fit? Below I show that it does; even with the hub on the wrong site, because the fan blades are short in the front-to-back dimension, clearance is not an issue. So, yes, this fan will work, but it’s pretty cheesy. I imagine an acorn finding its way in there and bending the fan blades. We can do better. Next is a four-bladed fan. Manufacturer: Packard (www.packardonline.com) Source: AppliancePartsPros.com Part Number: A61473 Diameter: 5 ½” Blades: 4 Pitch: 19 Bore: 1/4” Direction: CW Hub: Intake Front-to-back: 0.625” (5/8”) CFM: 300 @3000 Price: About $10 I thought I hit the jackpot when I found PackardOnLine, and to a certain extent, I did – they had a wider selection of small fans in one place than anywhere else I found. Unfortunately Packard doesn’t sell direct to the public, only through distributors. You can call them and they’ll tell you a distributor in your area. I found I could order Packard fans through AppliancePartsPros.com, since these small fans are used in HVAC. This is a 5 ½” four-bladed fan with the hub on the intake side that looks not unlike the very early fan in Jim Gerock’s picture. Below are pics of this fan in the housing, showing that, even with the hub on the wrong side, it fits easily. So this is a definite candidate. It is sturdier than the 10-blade fan, but the blade pitch seems shallow. Of course that helps in terms of clearance, but I can’t help but think that it leaves a certain amount of air flow on the table. Next is a five-bladed fan that I thought would be “it.” Manufacturer: Packard (www.packardonline.com) Source: AppliancePartsPros.com Manufacturer: Packard Source: AppliancePartsPros.com Part Number: A65504 (A65515) Diameter: 5 ½” Blades: 5 Pitch: 27 Bore: 1/4” Direction: CW (CCW) Front-to-back: 1.3” CFM: 85 @1550 Price: About $10 I list two part numbers for the ¼” bore fan in a choice of CW and CCW rotations (Packard also shows similar fans in 3/16” bore configurations). The fan shown on the Packard web site looks very similar in shape to the original fan, but the fan that arrived (as pictured) has a less finished more angular look. Like every fan I’ve shown thus far, the hub is on the intake side. Although the front-to-back of the fan blades is 1.3” – basically the same as on the original fan – there’s a problem. Below are pics of the fan in the housing, showing that with the hub location on the bottom (intake) acting like a big fat spacer pushing the fan blades up, the blades clearly protrude above the well – it doesn’t fit. Note how important this hub location is. Just as a test, if we flip this fan over and put the hub discharge side, the fan sits lower in the well and it fits, but now the curve of the blades is pointing the wrong way. The Packard web site doesn’t show an option for this fan with the hub on the discharge side. Below is the Lau fan. These are listed on the Packard site, but more detail is shown in the Lau catalog. Like the Packard fans, the Lau fans can be ordered through plumbing and HVAC supply houses, including AppliancePartsPros.com: Manufacturer: Lau (www.lauparts.com) Source: Several (AppliancePartsPros.com) Part Number: 60834601 (60834701) Diameter: 5 ½” Blades: 6 Pitch: 45 Bore: 1/4” Direction: CW (CCW) Hub: intake (discharge) Front-to-back: 1.5” CFM: ? RPM is 3450 Price: About $10 I was excited about the Lau fan because it was the only fan I found where the CW and CCW variants had the hubs on different sides – that is, the CW fan (60834601) has the hub on the intake side, but the CCW fan (60834701), like the original fan, has the hub on the discharge side. Note that although the CFM is not listed, I thought the fact that this fan has six blades and a 45 degree fan pitch should yield increased air flow as compared to the four-blade fan above. The blades on this fan are more robust and have a much more finished appearance than the 10-blade fan shown above. Unfortunately, even though the hub is on the correct (discharge) side, the physical size of the fan blades do it in. The photos below show that the fan doesn’t even come close to clearing – the blades hit on the bottom of the well and protrude through the top. With this hard-won knowledge, I thought I’d give one more try at finding a fan with the hub on the discharge side and a less severe fan pitch than the Lau fan. More web searching lead me to GlobalIndustrial.com. They only sell fans in quantities of 10 or more, but they list the Packard, Lau, and other fans in one place, and some new ones, including Alltemp (the actual manufacturer appears to be Rotom). Searching for the part number, Alltemp fans appear to only be available through Canadian supply houses, so it was a pain to get and took about a week to ship. The fan is about $10, with Fedex shipping from Canada about $18, making it pricey compared with the others, but, hell, in for a penny, in for twenty-eight more bucks. Manufacturer: Alltemp (www.alltemp.ca) Source: Several (SeymourSmith.com) Part Number: 9364587 Diameter: 5 ½” Blades: 5 Pitch: 27 Bore: 1/4” Direction: CW Hub: intake (discharge) Front-to-back: 1.4” CFM: ? RPM is 3450 Price: About $10 Like the Lau fan, the Alltemp fan comes in two flavors with the hub on different sides depending if rotation is CW or CCW. The CW fan has the hub on the discharge side. This means that, if it fits, the leads on the new motor (which runs backwards) don’t even need to be swapped. Hitting on all cylinders. When the Alltemp fan arrived, I was surprised to see it looked almost identical to the 5-bladed Packard fan, but with the hub on the other side. A careful measurement of the Alltemp fan shows that the front-to-back of the blades is about 1.4” – slightly more than the original fan, but less than the Lau fan. I test-fit the fan into the housing, sliding it down onto the shaft until the backs of the blades hit the cage. As you can see, the blades seemed to stick up a bit too high. I fit the fan housing onto the heater box and spun the fan blades by hand while I opened up the heater control flap. To my profound disappointment, the tip of the fan blades began to hit the flap. I thought, well, that’s it. I’m done. The winner is the four-bladed fan. I put it on the shaft and began to assemble the heater box. Then, I did what many of us do. I stopped and did it again. Upon closer examination, only two of the five fan blades were hitting the flap. This was because the blades weren’t level. I tried to level the blades inside the fan housing, sliding the fan down as far as it would go until the blades hit the cage, backing it up slightly, then eyeballing how close each blade came to the cage and bending them until they were within 1/16” of each other, but ultimately I pulled it out and did it on a table. This allowed me to level both the top and bottom surfaces very accurately by adjusting it so the tips of all blades touch the table, bending whole blades to level the bottom, then twisting them slightly to level the top. Once this was done, there was enough clearance both top and bottom. However, when I tightened everything down and prepared to button it up and tested the motor one more time, I heard some buzzing. Small changes in alignment were causing the fan to hit. I looked at the fan cage carefully. There is a series of small notches, shown in the picture below by my holding an Allen key, intended to give a little more clearance to the original fan blades. Taking a cue from that, I used the Dremel tool with a grinding attachment and cut notches for the new fan (second pic). This gave the fan some breathing room in terms of clearance. I reassembled everything and, with the cutouts, the clearances were much more comfortable. Note that there’s gobs of clearance at the top (the front) of the fan until you open the heater flap. When you test for clearance, it is imperative to move the heater flap through its full range of motion. It is possible for the fan to clear the flap when the flap is fully open but hit when the flap is about 2/3 open, as that is the flap’s closest approach to the fan blades. So the Alltemp fan fits. It’s tight, but so is the original. But Which One Blows Hardest? Since not all the fans list the CFM at which they blow, or list it at inconsistent RPMs, I wanted to do a test that was less subjective than simply sticking my hand in front of them but less expensive than buying an anemometer. I took a microphone stand, found a piece of cardboard from an industry-standard 12 pack of Magic Hat Number Nine Not Quite Pale Ale, hung the cardboard off the mike stand so it was free to swing, and taped on a screwdriver at an angle of about 30 degrees to the vertical. Then I placed the mike stand with the cardboard directly in front of the blowing fans and moved the entire stand fore or aft until the cardboard swung back so it was in line with the screwdriver. I compared the 30 degree swingback distance for the different sets of fan blades. To my surprise, the little four-bladed Packard fan (A61473) showed significantly more air flow in this test than any other fan (that is, it pushed the cardboard back at the greatest distance). More than the Alltemp fan. Even the Lau fan (which didn’t fit), with its six 45 degree blades, didn’t even come close. Most unexpected. I repeated the test. It’s not a fluke. Data is data. But something didn’t seem right. More blades, at a more steeply pitched angle, should move more air. And the 5 and 6-bladed fans sounded like they were blowing more air. I realized that my test was only measuring the air flow directly in front of the fan, not the total air flow. I needed to test the fans installed in the heater box. So I repeated the test with the Packard 4-blade fan and the Alltemp 5-blade fan each mounted on the motor, the fan cage attached onto the top of the heater box, all the flaps closed except the defroster flaps, and the industry-standard Magic Hat measuring device positioned in front of one of the round openings in the heater box where the defroster vent air exists. In this test, the five-bladed Alltemp fan spit out measurably more air than the 4-bladed Packard fan, though I’m not sure I could tell the difference just using my hand. Unfortunately, I could not collect data with the original blades because, for some reason, the original fan motor, which was not dead when I removed it, is dead now. Yes, I am aware that, now that it is dead, I can use Mike’s technique for removing the fan blades, but I don’t see how to get a saw in there. I’d love to complete this test by putting the original fan on the new motor and measuring its air flow, but I do have a life you know. So, Damn It, Rob, Which Fan Should I Use? I don’t see any reason to use the 10-blade fan; the Packard 4-blade fan is more sturdy and moves more air. So the choice is between the Packard 4-blade fan (part number A61473) and the Alltemp 5-blade fan (part number 9364587). The Packard 4-blade fan is readily available through a number of domestic channels. If you don’t need to use the heater fan that much, are concerned about the clearance issue – if you can’t button up the heater box without paranoid fear that you’ll hit a pothole, jar something, and start hearing tick-tick-tick evolve into scrape-scrape-scrape – and if you don’t want to grind some notches into the fan cage, use the Packard 4-blade fan. You’d have to install it incredibly carelessly to have it rub. But if you’re in a climate where you need the heat and defroster to blow as hard as possible, use the Alltemp fan, level the blades, grid out some notches for insurance, install the fan carefully, and I think you’ll be fine. It’s a pain to get, though, because it appears to only be available through Canadian supply houses. I’ve installed the Alltemp. Giving The Fan The Shaft Now that you have selected a fan, you have to make it fit on the motor’s shaft. If you want to use a 3/16” fan and enlarge the bore, go for it, but I was not successful doing that. I decided to use a fan with a ¼” bore and shim it. If the shaft is 6mm, that’s 0.236”. Subtracting that from ¼” (0.25”) yields a difference of 0.01378”. Since we want the shaft centered inside the bore, we want to take half that – 0.0069”. I went to – you guessed it – McMaster-Carr – and typed in “shims.” Do so and you’re met with a dizzying array of shimming material. I settled on 18-8 stainless slotted shim tabs. I bought part numbers 97235K129, 97235K134, and 97235K138 (0.003”, 0.004”, and 0.005”, respectively), for about $1 each, cut them into small pieces about the size of a thumbnail that I could wrap around the motor shaft. If life were perfect, you could use a .003” and a .004” shim to come as close as possible to 0.007”, but I couldn’t make those fit. I settled on a single 0.005” shim. When everything was done, I test-fit the blade, with shim, on the motor, fit the assembly in the heater box, applied power, moved all flaps, made sure nothing hit or buzzed, then took the motor back out, unscrewed the Allen set screw, put a dab of Locktite Red on it, and tightened the living snot out of it. And The Motor Itself In this thread: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,382412/ I noted that there were previous posts saying that Porsche part 0130007081 was touted as being a nearly identical fan motor. Turns out, it’s wrong. Well, not wrong, just incomplete. The early fan motors have a housing with a 2.3” diameter, and for that you need Porsche Part 0130007002 with a plastic sleeve or “girdle” around the outside. The best price I found on this was $73 from BMAParts.com. The later fan motors appear to be smaller, with a 2” outer diameter. That’s the one that Porsche part 0130007081 replaces. Below I show, left to right, my original early-style fan motor, the correct replacement (0130007002) with the sleeve, and the replacement for the smaller later-style 2” motor without the sleeve (0130007081). The original motor looks slightly bigger because it’s sitting up higher. When the correct motor (with the sleeve) arrived, I test-fit it into the heater box cage, and swore it didn’t fit. There are four raised ridges on the inside of the fan housing. It made sense that these would slide into the four slots on the outside of the sleeve, one of which you can see on the right side of the sleeve. But they don’t line up. I was mystified. Then I looked carefully at how the original fan motor fit. It has no slots running down the outside. The mating is achieved by a notch on the front of the motor’s case, beneath the blades. It mates with the cut-out in the housing, shown at the 5:00 position in the photo above. As you see from the picture above, there are other cut-outs that neatly receive other areas of the original motor, but when fitting the replacement motor, what’s important is that this cutout at 5:00 receive the notch in the plastic sleeve. If you orient the electrical tabs toward the hole where the wire comes through, you’ll see how it needs to go. The correct fitment is shown below, with the notch and cut-out rotated into the 12:00 position. Before I held it in place with the original clips, the fit of the replacement fan in the cage felt a little sloppy – not the tight fit of the original fan – but once the clips were in place, it didn’t feel like it was going anywhere. Motor Direction Jim Gerock’s notes in the heater box FAQ say: “1) I have confirmed that the new replacement Behr heater fan with Bosch motor (made in Spain) has reverse polarity as compared to the original Bosch German motors. Looking at the motor with the (2) terminals facing you, the left-hand (Male spade) is negative (-) and the right-hand (Female) is positive (+). While "bench testing", I connected my new fan up to the original wires (red + from left-side of the resistor board and brown - from the right-side of the resistor board) and it turned backwards, blowing air out of the box.” Other posts say that the Porsche fans labeled “Made in Spain” also spin backwards. So I assumed if I ordered a new Porsche fan, it would spin backwards. But it doesn’t. At least not the two brand new Bosch motors I have (0130007081 and 0130007002). Both say “Made in Hungary” on the boxes. Both, when wired like the original fan with the male spade hooked up to negative and the female spade hooked up to positive, spin counter-clockwise – the same direction as the original motor. So my idea that, in ordering the Alltemp fan that spins clockwise and putting it on a new motor that spun clockwise, I didn’t need to reverse the wiring? Wrong. (Obviously it’s trivial to flip the wires, but it took me a while to be certain of what I was seeing.) Verifying the polarity of the fan is essential. Don’t believe me. Don’t believe Jim. Verify it yourself. As Groucho Marx said, “who are you going to believe? Me or your own eyes?” One Final Note on the Words “Early” and “Late” I casually throw around the words “early” and “late” to connote the larger and smaller diameter motors, respectively. Jim Gerock’s photo shows what is probably an “early early” motor, and Jim wonders if the 6V cars have something even earlier. In this write-up I make no claims whatsoever with regard to representing a complete archaeology of the differences in heater boxes across the 2002’s eight year span; I was just trying to replace a freaking fan. So… twelve pages later, we reach the end of The Fan Tome Gourmet. A fan has been selected. It’s time to button this puppy up, test yet again, reinstall the heater box, make the car drivable, and get back to what I should be doing – finishing the a/c resurrection and getting the car sorted out to take to The Vintage. And if the thing starts buzzing, or the shim on the shaft fails, I won’t bother posting about it. You’ll know because wherever you are in this world, you’ll hear my screams. --Rob
  24. Just went to check the oil, and when I pulled out the dipstick, the top of the tube came with it. It has broken off right where it would be inserted into the block. Anybody have any suggestions as to how to fix this? I thought maybe I could insert a smaller diameter tube, but haven't even tried to locate one yet. Also should the dipstick tube be supported somehow to the engine? Mine shows no signs of that so perhaps that is probably why it broke. Real OEM diagrams show several different dipstick configurations, and one shows some sort of support; but no part number for the part. Thanks as always for any help.
  25. The head on my original engine is cracked, the rings were shot (80% leakage and 90-100psi compression), and I wasn't planning on spending money for a proper engine rebuild this soon, the car has so many other issues that need to be fixed first. So I picked up another engine with the thought of de-glazing the cylinders and putting new rings/bearings/gaskets in it and use it as a temp motor until I'm ready to either rebuild my original block or do an engine swap (depending on how it performs) It's a 76 block with E21 head (same as what I had) but on disassembly, several red flags popped up. The pistons were piano tops and it was bored out +0.50mm The #2 rod was backwards The rod nuts were backwards There was a groove in the #1 rod bearings, found a corresponding nick/gouge on the crank These are easily solvable: From what I've read, the piano tops work with an E21 head if they are clearanced right, mine has clearance, but I suspect there was some light contact so I will open it up more. The rod can be flipped, same as the nuts I should be able to sand down the nick/gouge (remember, this is a temp motor, and the machine shop wanted $120+ to fix the one journal) I should also mention this isn't the first motor I've rebuilt, but it is the first that I'm re-using parts. In the past I bought new stuff, dropped it off to the machine shop for checking/machining, and then I assembled it all. Anyways, on to the questions: 1. I'm trying to calculate the wear on the bore, but I don't know what the starting value should be. Based on this post - It gives 3 different measurements for the pistons (A, B, and C) and 4 different measurements for the bore. It also states a "Max permissible total wear clearance piston to cylinder"...but it's a range (0.10mm to 0.15mm). how can you have a max, but it be a range? My pistons are stamped 89.47 (3.5224") and measured within 0.0001" of that. I measured the bores at 3.5260" - 3.5263" (89.56 - 89.57mm) I think I'm in that range, but I'd like to know how far off I am. My interpretation of the chart is that it depends if your piston is stamped with + - W or S, but mine just has an R on it (KS logo on them) 2. What's the max amount of crank wear before you have to grind it? Rod journals are spec'd at 1.8898 and I measured 1.8886 - 1.8888 = Max 0.0012 under Main journals are spec'd at 2.1654 and I measured 2.1639 - 2.1642 = Max 0.0015 under 3. What's the part number for the piston pin snap rings? On removal, one of mine flung off into the dark recesses of the garage. Realoem says 07119934460, but FCP says that part doesn't fit my 76 2002. I suspect FCP is wrong, but confirmation would be nice. 4. What's the best way to clean the combustion chambers? Lots of carbon in there. I bought a gallon of Chem-Dip for the pistons, it seems to be working good, should work on the valves too. 5. I'll probably take the head apart too, install new guide seals and install an IE 284 cam. Does it need oversize eccentrics? How do I know if the head has been shaved? 6. On my shopping list, I have the following items: Main Bearings Rod Bearings Gasket Set Piston Rings Piston Pin Snap Rings Rockers What am I missing? Is a timing chain necessary? Oil pump chain? I have a brand new water pump and thermostat on my old motor I will transfer over. The Head/Main/Rod bolts are all reusable, right? Any brands I should get and/or avoid? FCP has the following: Victor-Reinz makes and upper and lower gasket set, Goetze Rings, KS bearings Just a few questions lol. I'm sure I'll think of some more later.