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Found 47 results

  1. I am looking for a complete set of belt trim for my 1974 2002. It doesn't have to be perfect but repairable. Mine current set has so many dings. I'm not sure what the previous owner did to it.
  2. I have don't know if these are worth anything to anyone, but here goes. Pair of original, 100% stock, never been recovered or restuffed (and probably never cleaned) front seats out of a 1974 2002tii. I believe the color is saddle tan(Gobi Tan?). I am the second owner of this '74 tii and just got a set of recaros from our fellow FAQ'er, hktbmw. I really don't have the space to store these. I know there is some debate about this style becoming trendy again, but they are not for me. All parts and pieces are there, sliders are not included. The tilts and release mechanisms work. And from what I can tell the seat backs are not twisted and I don't see any broken springs. What you see is what you get. The original horsehair padding is destroyed but there is still some in there so be aware they will sprinkle bits everywhere. Good candidates for complete tear down and reupholster. Thanks for looking. I hope someone is interested otherwise they will be trashed. Paul
  3. 3 piece front grill set for 1974 and up. Left and right pieces in excellent condition. No cracks or breaks. Center has minor pits that can be polished out. You pay shipping or you can pick up.
  4. Okay, so I bought this "flat black" 1974 2002 a month ago. Haven't gotten around to doing anything other than lurking yet, and I figured I'd start a blog. What you can expect: This won't be some concourse winning numbers-matching classic. This won't be a full restore. This won't be a crazy engine build/swap in detail. This won't be a professionally photographed visually stunning photo-blog. This won't be a 100% diy built-not-bought car. This is will be mildly hacked together car. Not be intention, but due to constraints. This will be a daily driver(unless I somehow get another car anytime soon) This car will be street parked, if I had a garage I could use, I would. I will probably abuse the carp out of this thing. Things will be broken, and at times I may just choose to live with it. When ever possible I will try to fix things myself. I will try to document this, but sometimes I will suck at it. (both the documenting and fixing) At times I may call in the professionals, due to time/lack of skill constraints, but my budget is so very limited. If any of the above bothers you, well this may not be the best blog for you.... However all are welcome, and I will take all well meaning advice to heart. About me: I am broke-ass student, who for some demented reason has a passion for cars (I blame watching way to much top gear in my teens). This is my second car. My last car was an e28 that I bought for $1,5000. I dumped another $1,500 into maintenance and got rear ended, insurance gave me $3600, and at this point I have spent more than that into this car. I have extremely limited mechanical experience, but hey how hard can things get.... On to the car!: The car is an originally red 1974 2002. I am almost certain that this car has been used as a parts car stripped down and then abandoned, and then someone had the genius idea to revive it. The odo reads 44,341 (totally useless information). The engine has been replaced at some known point by an m10 from a 320i (supposedly has 70k at swap, now 80k) It sounds like it has a street cam. It has an weber 32/26 carb with a water choke, and push start ignition. (I get a big red button says engine start, and some airplane style toggle switches) The coolness of this is somewhat canceled out by the fact I can't seem to get the idle mixture screw and water choke to behave as to get a idle around 1k with a warm engine and a clean one push cold start. Oh well. There's some crazy loud exhaust system on there. The wiring on this car is best described as a mess, I have wiring not tied down and running allover the place. Random connectors not hooked up to anything hanging from all over. The interior is mostly non-existent. I have no front door cards, but I do have rears. The dash is cracked, but not horrible. The windshield gasket is cracked to hell and leaks when it rains. The front seats are miss-matched cloth one black, one purplish. I have no shift knob. The headliner droops and is filled with rips When I bought the car, the passenger seat handle and window crank were missing now replaced, still missing the A pillar window knob. The rears black vinyl that has at least one big rip in it. The body has some rust(understatement) I have speed holes in the trunk in the spare tire space. The floor panels have been "repaired" at various different times by amateurs. Theres clearly visible patching done on the driver side floor panel, and the passenger side patch is riveted not welded in.... From the rip in the rear seat I can see the ground. However, the frame rails, the wheel arches, and the rear strut structure seem sound! California car FTW? The body has been badly spray painted flat black, the diving board bumpers are missing, as is the chrome belt line and lower trim are gone. My passenger side mirror is missing( I hear these cars did not come with one in the USA, but I am drilled for one) My drivers side mirror goes out of adjustment by the wind every time I drive on the freeway. By now, you are probably thinking wow this car has some problems, but I actually left quite a bit out. Over all I love my car. One day it will be amazing, for now its a wonder. Done: Replace gas tank, and filler neck Fix brakes * not quite actually done, but drivable Fix idle Passenger side window crank and door handle installed. Replaced water pump, thermostat, engine heat sensor Todo: Fix brakes properly ( leaks at left rear cylinder, and possibly master) Needs new brake shoes.) Replace head gasket/valve guides/Piston Orings. Fix cold start problem. Replace heater blower Fix heater core? Was working just no blower, but it stopped yesterday.... Aliment Tire balance( seller told me that one of the front tires need balancing, I sort of can't be bothered because I hate these tires, but if I am going to keep them....) Wishlist: Sound system (there's holes cut for speakers in rear hat shelf, and in kicker panel) muffler replacement( I sort of don't want to do this, but it attracts too much attention, and I feel like I am going to be going deaf on the freeway. If I do add a sound system I think I will have to do this.) Big brake upgrade, if I have to spend money on brakes, I might as well make them bigger right? Probably won't happen due to cost. 5 speed, I wish I had the funds. Engine swap in my dreams, but honestly, the car is fast enough to have fun right now. Any faster, and I risk killing myself, with my per-despostion for taking stupid risks, and enjoyment of WOT.
  5. This was a SCCA Track night in america event at Portland International Raceway. There was three 20 min sessions and this is from the last. I was pushing my car harder during the last race, and I had a lot of fun. My 2nd gear is going out so I tried not to shift down, but every so often I'd shove it in there. It needs a few more tuning sessions as the new carbs were very recently installed. I am driving my daily 1974 BMW 2002 that has a dual Weber 40 DCOE, long tube 4-1 headers, stainless exhaust, and a few other things that you can find out on my wheelwell page.
  6. From the album: Daily 2002

    One fantastic drive up to the Vista house with an astonishing view of the gorge.

    © Lil © Photography LLC

  7. Scheffro

    My Bmw

    This BMW was my first car when i was 16. I drove it till the head gasket blew....and then some. It sat for 3 to 4 years. I bought a rusty donor car for cheap. I stripped it and kept most of the parts. the donor car was a '75 automatic w/AC. If anybody in the central PA region needs an auto tranny, or Air Conditioning parts let me know i have them. After i blew the motor i parked it for a couple years and I recently decided to swap the motor. The swap is complete and the clutch is new. The car runs....not well yet. brakes need some work and my Alpinas had 6 layers of paint and im in the precess of stripping and repainting them. let me know what you guys think. Cherry Picker Ready to pull motor! Heres the old engine out of the car! Heres what looks like a blown head gasket or maybe even cracked head. Alpinas 13" (2) 6.5", (2) 6" Alpinas Being Stripped Thanks again everybody. Advice is always appreciated.
  8. I heard from a buddy that he heard my car was being blasted the past couple days and was to be EP'd (epoxy primed) today. Last I saw it looked like this. I figured I had better see this for myself, primarily because I was considering going elsewhere since there had been no progress in about a month. I show up and this is what I see. Needless to say, I was happy as anything. So I shot a couple pics. JULY 10thth, 2013 So I visited the body shop today, July 10, 2013 and I felt like a Loomis or Brinks truck doing weekly drop offs of cash. Anyway, the dings and dents of 39 years have been banged out, and new life is breathed into the old girl. First coat of prime is on and needs to be blocked and some pits need to be tidied up. I see some #022 paint in the future, it'll be like a sunrise of sorts. Anyway some shots from today's visit. UPDATE July 24th 2013 So July 24th I head over to the shop and see this out back by the hedge, with no one in sight resembling a worker........ but I did seize the chance to snap a couple pictures of it since it was nice and sunny, so no flash etc.... I was a little disappointed with the standby that my car had been put on, but what can I do right? UPDATE August 1st, 2013 Today, I was scheduled to drop off some cash to get current with the progress. I stopped in around 10 this morning to not see my car anywhere inside, and thankfully not in the rain. I bumped into the paint guy and he said I got there in the nick of time as they were about to re prime it and he wanted to show the seam sealing and so on. I peaked into the booth and this is what I got to see and snap a couple pics of. Then the painters headed in to start priming. The window was pretty grimey .... so this is the best I could do capturing the action. When the first guy came out, I asked if they would get to some orange today. Well he said go grab a coffee and we'll be done orange and clear by lunch. I came back at 12:30 and they were cleaning their guns.
  9. So from May 1st onwards there has been some progress worthy of documenting, if for no one else but me. The concepts is tidy, not flashy (other than original Inka orange) and good handling. Old Progress blog shows a little of the cage and some of the trim and corner marker deletes. I had the rear parcel tray and rear firewall replaced. Previous damage and speaker holes etc were unsightly to say the least. The factory seat mounts were deleted and replace with lower supports to bolt different seats to. The mechanical handbrake was deleted and is being replaced with a hydraulic handbrake with a porportioning valve inline. As seen in the pic above. The bottom of the front valance was removed due to rot and an aftermarket Air dam is to be installed. The front bumper is deleted. In the end the ride will be set lower than factory and the air dam will give a tidy look to the front and to give the rear a tidy look from the outside I had a stainless exhaust tip made to be relocated to the centre. With it sitting lower I opted to have a custom fuel cell made, which regretfully intrudes in the trunk space, but will not rub on the ground and look hideous. That is how it all looked as it left for blasting and priming on May 9th....... looking at parts - I have a 318ti diff that is to donate the guts to convert my existing diff to an LSD The engine of course Edis from a ford escort A cracked engine mount.... to be repaired next week with a 3/16 plate
  10. This blog is merely the patch over from the old project blog section to the new blog section. Below are some of the progress pics over the last long while, when progress was slow and sporatic. So much has happened, some of which was covered in another section, but here are some of the pics from way back. A little re-enforcement went in
  11. This is how it started off a number of years ago. I bought it from Sacramento, had it shipped to Boston, and drove down from Canada to get it. It did not run at the time I picked it up, and the whole plan was to do a powerplant transplant. As it sat in my old tight garage.
  12. Does anyone have info on air conditioning units available Hudson6469@comcast.net
  13. Is there a piece that I am missing here that connects the two pieces together? I looked at the part configurations and it shows that there should be a square mount that bolts on but I'm not seeing a way for that to happen. Maybe it is because it's a later model? ('74) Currently, the dipstick tube and the hole it goes in are the same sizes so I figure I'm missing a piece that puts them together.
  14. Hi- Been on the search for a 2002 driveable project for some time. Perfect car would be '73 roundie, verona red, black interior. But, really interested at anything at the moment. Previous cars owned: 1987 BMW 325 (e30, e, 2.7, non-IS) 1990 BMW 525i 1988 BMW 735iL 2001 BMW 330ci 2002 Lexus SC430 Anyways, on to the car: Apparently runs, but doubt it drives. Looks like a good parts car, but not sure about how restorable it would be given the current condition. Asking price, 3500 (!). It's a 1974, red. Lots of rust in my opinion. I plan on staying away, but just curious what thoughts people have: Thoughts? Thanks-
  15. Price is required for the post but I’m temporarily changing it because the listing is on hold while awaiting replies from several sources. 1974 BMW 2002 Chamonix for sale in Blacksburg, VA I’m selling my 1974 02 and I wanted to announce it on the forum first. I’m in southern VA and I'm hoping that some of you that live near (or far) might be interested. If so, please PM me. It’s the best car I’ve ever owned and I know I’ll miss it but unfortunately I just can’t keep it along with another car anymore. It’s been my daily driver for the last two years; always reliable and always a great drive and runs great. It starts the first time, every time. I get complements and thumbs up all the time. People tell me just about every week that it looks great. Its only had a few very minor issues since I got her. She’s Chamonix white with a manual 4-speed transmission, retro-fitted by previous owner with Euro bumpers, BBS basket weave wheels and Racero seats. * Speedometer works, but doesn’t track mileage. * Has heater but no A/C * When I first got her, several small holes in the floor board needed to be patched in order to pass inspection in VA. It does pass inspection now. * I had the radiator replaced (with after market from Blunt Tech) in 2015 because of a broken mount. * A few points were replaced along with the distributer cap. * Last summer I replaced the fuel pump (Blunt Tech) and the fuel rod. * I made some repairs to the door panels, cleaned and rust treated (was only a few small patches of minor surface rust) inside the doors and used fat-mat as a barrier between door and door panel to help dampen noise and for water proofing. * The paint job has a few nicks and chips, but overall looks great. There are a few spots that are beginning to rust under the paint. * The only two times that it didn't start for me were: the first super cold morning here (carb needed re-tuning) and when the fuel pump died. * I had it towed twice: once for the fuel pump because I had change everything and thought it should be working, but didn't realize that the fuel pump rod also needed to be replaced (it was either the wrong size for the after market part from Blunt Tech, or had also gone bad); and when a bolt loosened under the car that connected the transmission linkage. I couldn't shift and didn't want to risk driving, not knowing if the transmission had just gone (it hadn't; it was just a loose bolt). * Both times that it was towed we used a flat bed truck. * I replaced some of the seals around the driver side window while working on the doors. * It has a minor leak (described on the forum here) under driver's side dashboard just next to the left side wall of the car. I think I improved it recently by clearing out a rubber drainage hose that allows water to drain from the heater box compartment. During heavy, long rains, it still fills up and is prone to some leaking. * Dashboard has some cracks and splits but is solid and hasn’t worsened in the time I’ve owned it. * It has an old AM/FM radio which isn't connected and it doesn't have speakers. * The rear defrost doesn't work and the heater motor works, but doesn't push a lot of air. That hasn't been a problem for me. * I have loads of paperwork from the previous two owners and I’ve kept all paperwork for work done and maintenance since it got her in July 2015. * I also have a extra set of Bilstein shocks (details and pics on request) that I'll throw into the deal for nothing. * There are several rust bubbles forming on lower parts of the car. I'll post pics or can send pics of anything via PM or on this post upon request.
  16. Hello! I am the proud owner of a new (to me) 1974 Tii, VIN# 2781203. It has some surface rust, and the paint is horrible, but the last month or so with it has been a real treat. It's my first bimmer (my other vehicles being a 2014 Mustang, 1966 Austin-Healey Sprite which I am selling, and 1995 Ducati 900SS) and I am certainly in the honeymoon period. I have attached a picture which hides a lot of its flaws with distance. The things I have observed so far about the car: The engine is not stock, and appears to be an earlier 2002 engine. The oil filter is a canister, not filter paper, but that is about all I have so far. I just found a forum post today on how to look up the engine serial, so that information is forthcoming once the rain stops. There is an aftermarket turbo installed, with 4 injectors. The setup appears to be 2 injectors into the intake pipe as it meets the manifold, and 2 injectors directly into the manifold itself. The job was done by Motorspeed West in Santa Clara, CA. I've been told that they refer to the car as "Frankenstein", and I can't blame them. It appears they have done a solid job on the turbo, and all of the controls have been well-integrated into the interior, but I'll withhold further commentary until I get a more in-depth explanation from them on the car. The sound is incredible, and with 4psi of boost (I'm told the old owner ran 8) the thing pulls like crazy from 3000 upwards. I love it. There is an EFI system installed. I have halfheartedly tried to trace the wiring back to an ECU twice and haven't been able to find anything. It still has a Kugelfischer Mechanical Fuel pump. I also haven't been able to find an exhaust O2 sensor, so I think the system may be a simple manifold pressure:fuel controller. I need to get further under it before I make that decision, though. The valve stem seals are likely shot. I say this because: It started up fine when I got it, but was low on oil. When I topped up the oil to get it to the line, it started smelling awful during normal driving. When I did an oil change and filled it to spec, I started having trouble starting it quickly. It now takes about 5-10 seconds of cranking before it fires and blows a small amount of black smoke out of the rear. To me, this means that the engine is leaking oil through the valve guides and into the cylinders. It is slow to start because the oil pools in the cylinders during long hours of rest and requires more fuel to combust what's in the chamber. It's been losing oil rather rapidly and there are no large spots on my driveway. There is no blue smoke or no milkiness to the oil, so the head gasket is intact. According to this guide, '02s are known to start leaking around the valve stem oil seals around 60k miles. Given that the engine it turbo'd, I think that sort of wear is pretty likely to happen. The ODO reads high 50s but I don't know if it has rolled over or if that is since the engine swap happened. The steering has about 20deg of play when stopped. I'm not sure what it is supposed to feel like. I haven't had time to research this much yet, stopping the oil burning is my first priority. The seats look new but I cannot find a lever to fold them forward. Googling/forum searching hasn't found an answer on this for me. I'll upload pictures of it in the next few days since it is hard to explain, but the seats look great and don't appear to be missing any obvious hardware, however I cannot find a way to fold them forward and access the back seats. There's some exhaust rattle between 2500-3000. There's a shop near me that always has '02s parked out front and I am going to use this simple job to evaluate their quality and value. The turbo install was one of the big reasons I bought the car; I knew I couldn't afford anything well-preserved and was leaning towards the restomod route anyway. I'm also sick of tuning carbs from the Sprite that I own, so the EFI was a bonus. I was close to buying a '73 Roundie in rough shape until this car came up for sale. At just under $8k, it was a steal for the bay area. The posting went up at 10:30pm on a Saturday, and I was the first to text, first to look, and had bought it by 24 hours later. In that time, the person who sold it to me got over two dozen phone calls about it, including a few while he was showing me the car. Some of them were likely forum users! It's got some surface rust and lots of cracked paint, but there doesn't appear to be any deep rust with the exception of the roof, which looks like it's had a 1ft dia POR-15 treatment. The official story is that the previous owner bought it 20 years ago, found out the engine wasn't stock, paid quite a bit for a custom turbo installation, and daily drove it until he passed away a few months ago. I was sold the car by a friend of his on behalf of his wife. The car is clearly worse for wear, but also has the feeling of an object that has been well-loved. The plan is to fix the burning oil problem and anything else that comes up, then make incremental improvements over the next few years while I save up for a sweet paint job/frame refresh. I say that now, fully understanding that plans will change. The big questions I have for the community are: Does my diagnosis of leaking valve stem seals sound correct? If so, my plan is to buy a new head and build it up myself before swapping it for the old head. I've never done engine work before, only suspension, hydraulic, and axle work, but this seems like a perfect place to start learning since most forums agree that replacing the seals without taking off the head is a masochistic exercise. Taking a few weeks to do a well-considered build with clean parts would be a lot of fun for me. How bad is it to continue driving with leaking seals? I'm making sure the oil level is adequate and not driving it except for a few dozen miles each weekend, but I want to make sure I'm not harming anything aside from spark plugs. I have a cars+coffee event this weekend with my company and I really want to take this car but won't do so if I'm in danger of tanking the internals. Is there a good page on the procedure for removing + replacing the head that I can reference? I don't want to run my valves into my pistons, and I don't know how simple it is to make sure I don't screw up the timing on reassembly. Like I said, this would be my first engine work. I ordered a copy of the shop manual for this car, which should arrive next week. Anyone know of an EFI upgrade for these cars that isn't MegaSquirt? I have a hunch that the system in my car is cobbled from something else, but I can't find a guide for using an ECU from another gen car or something like that. Any book recommendations aside from the shop manual? I can't find a book specifically on the M10, which is a bit surprising. I have one for the A-Series in my sprite that is thicker than both of my shop manuals combined. What about sites for aftermarket parts? Cheers, and thanks in advance for the help. -Griffin Quick edit: This post refers to the car that I bought. Contrary to the reply in that thread, the car had not been on and off craigslist for a while, or at least I didn't see it in my semiweekly trawl through 2002s on CL over the past 2 years.
  17. 1974 BMW engine stored in garage and fluids drained 15 years ago. Removed from my parts car back then. I suspect from looks of it, the '74 was parked by previous owner due to rust. I can lift and place in your truck or trailer no problem. Or deliver (reasonable distance...). Weber carb up top. VIN 4225512, 2002, 03/1974 Add for shipping & paypal fees. Paypal: TacBuddy.com text if have question or concern or whatever. 301-928-6199 Pete
  18. Plus shipping & paypal fee. paypal = TacBuddy.com Stay tuned, have many more parts for sale from the '74 part out. Pete
  19. Hi everyone, I've been having this issue with my '74 tii for the last couple years and figured its about time I fixed it. Whenever it's foggy, rainy, or just cold and wet out, the car refuses to start after sitting for a while/overnight. Battery has plenty of power and I know it's getting fuel. If I run the car the night before for about 5 minutes it'll usually start the next morning pretty quick. Later in the day when it dries out the car starts up no problem. Please let me know if you guys have any solutions or suggestions! Thanks, Piper
  20. I have a 1974 2002 base as a parts car it was just wrecked a day ago. it still starts and drives but the front end was smashed in a low speed collision so the radiator is busted but everything else including the engine is still in working condition. I found another car on craigslist but it's a 1968 base with a bad dif. Could I transfer my old differential from the 74 to the 68? Are the engine mounts the same; I did a lot of work on my old car and the engine was like new is it possible to swap out the 68 engine for the 74? Any other additional information regarding switching parts from the square to the roundy would be appreciated, thanks.
  21. Not mine, no affiliation, but they have taken this example retro! http://www.ebay.com/itm/231983367423?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT VIN 2780827 is likely either a December 1973 or a January 1974 car, a square taillight by birth. Fine. But this example, sold by the same dealer who previously offered 2760770, has had a nose job and a butt lift! The snorkel-less nosepiece is obviously a round taillight piece as is the tail panel. But wait, shouldn't a square taillight have "flying buttresses" in its trunk, reinforcing the tail end and eliminating those cardboard trunk side panels? My '76's trunk is shown below. The missing reinforcements suggest they removed the WHOLE tail, from wheel housings back, and swapped on a round taillight tail. And, yes, those wheel housings have been messed with. The trunk-lid roundel is missing, consistent with the round taillight theme. If I were interested in buying this car, I'd give some consideration to whether it had accident damage that led to the fairly radical butt lift: most owners would not remove the flying buttresses just to make a square taillight into a more authentic-looking round taillight. But they really got into the retro thing, installing a '72 or earlier two-piece dash and a round taillight instrument cluster: note that the fan switch is up next to the gauge cluster, not down on the heater slide controls. And the cross-hair gauges are gone. But wait, how does that round taillight odometer happen to have the correct -- and almost unbelievably-low -- orginal mileage of a square taillight car? Let me state that differently: the car no longer has its original instrument cluster yet we are expected to believe the current mileage is correct for this car. Hmm...makes one reflect. Front seats are '75-'76. Backseat is of indeterminate date, but closer to pre-'74 styles. I've still never seen a convincingly factory Polaris with black interior (navy blue is the norm but Nick may have a bona fide tan interior). And there appears to be Malaga paint or overspray on the underside of the car. Original color, or just a passing fancy? I'd certainly want to see BMW Archives' data on this. Could it have started life as a Malaga-with-tan example? I don't write up every '02 I see, but this example, in its "been-messed-with" way, reminded me immediately of VIN 2760770, curiously offered by this same dealer. That was the Malaga-with-saddle '72 that is now Alpine White (post-'02 era) with black interior. Coincidence? I don't know, but both cars gave me a queasy feeling, as in: Get a VERY good PPI! Regards, Steve
  22. 1974 BMW 2002-S14 for Sale $19,500 in Denver For Sale is my 1974 BMW 2002tii that is now powered by a 1988 e30 M3 engine, (the S14 engine). It has the matching 5 speed transmission with a short shift kit. The engine and transmission are in superb condition and need nothing. Installation was done with great care and craftsmanship. The car also has a custom stainless steel exhaust from the header pipe back, custom TIG welded, and ending with a stainless steel performance Magnaflow exhaust. I left the Cat and the resonator on as they do not really affect performance, but they do a lot to make the exhaust tone street-able (it was really too loud without). The suspension (shocks -Bilstein, springs - Suspension Techniques, and torsion bars) have all been upgraded to support the M3 drivetrain. It has disc brakes in front with Carbotech pads. Rears are upgraded (528) drums with near newer shoes. It handles awesome and stops great. The History: I have owned this car for about 7 years. I bought it already converted with an s14 engine. Unfortunately, that engine was soon to expire. I was already committed to the car so I had Autosport Werks of Broomfield, CO source and install another S14 engine in 2010. If any of you know Autosport Werks, they are one of the premier Colorado BMW and Audi car shops. The engine came from a wrecked 1988 e30 M3 in El Cajon, CA and had approximately 100k miles on it. I have only put about 2,000 miles on the car since I have owned it. That is why I am selling...I just do not drive the car enough. It’s time to get back the garage space and let it go. I do not know much about the history, but before me, the car came from California to Wisconsin and I brought it to Colorado. I do not know the actual mileage of the car. The Present: Within the last 300 miles the car received a complete tune up at Hotchkiss Automotive in Denver which included changing all fluids, H4 headlight upgrade, Installation of a new Legacy GPS speedometer, New horn and switch, new high beam switch, New Rota RB 15x7 wheels and Faulken asymmetrical tread tires, and alignment. Hotchkiss is a great shop and I know they would be happy to provide feedback on the car. The car runs great. The body is good, but not great and needs some attention, not rust attention, but a good paint job. The battery has been relocated to the trunk with a rear brace installed between the strut towers. I have 2 additional sets of wheels that come with the car, one set BMW 14” bottle caps with xxx tires and the other set are 13” BMW gold basket weaves with Bridgestone Potenza tires. The extra wheels and tires are not new. The heater does not work; never did when I bought it and still doesn’t. The windshield squirts do not work. The reservoir, pump, and hoses were removed by the previous owner and it appears there is not room for the reservoir with the current engine configuration. Two speed wipers work great though, as do all lights, blinkers, hi-lo beams, horn and gauges. The center rearview mirror is from and e30 and has the integral map lights (which work well). Tan carpet is in great shape. Headliner is in good shape. Back window deck lid could use replacement. Has the Italian flush front blinkers (those are going for $600 a pair themselves right now, if you can find them). Dash has a few cracks but looks nice. Original tii clock is there but does not work. As I mentioned Tires are new (< 300 miles on them), brakes are probably at 75%, clutch has just been checked and is in great shape. The stance of the car is perfect, lowered about 1" with 15x7 Rota wheels. This car starts right up, settles into a nice hum, and then rips. The car is essentially rust free. I would say completely rust free except there is some paint bubbling along the chrome trim at the base of the windows in both doors, primarily the drivers side. This is not the usual rust one sees on 2002s and must be from a poor paint preparation at some point in the past. The floors, rockers, shock towers front and rear, are rust free and solid. The gas tank is in great shape. The car is burgundy (Malaga) in color with a tan interior. The interior is generally quite good, with performance seats (vinyl), five point harnesses from RJS Racing Equip., and an ok stereo. Regular seat belts are also there for everyday use. There is a little wear showing on the drivers seat, speaker grilles are missing on doors, and the horsehair padding on the rear seat is worn out. The rear seat looks fine, just don't plan to ride comfortably back there. The bumpers, while the 74 style, have been moved in, close to the body, vastly improving the looks of these bumpers. The doors close nicely. However the rubber seals on door and quarter windows should be replaced; they are a little tired. As I mentioned before, a paint job is in order; trunk, quarters, and roof look to be original paint, but doors fenders and hood have definitely been re-coated at some point, and not done so well. A good paint job would make this a show stopper more than it already is. Even as it is, this car gets lots of attention. Trim is in decent shape all around, but not perfect. The windshield has a small rock chip but I have a new rubber gasket and aluminum lock strip for a new windshield. If you are looking for great fun with no hassles, this is your chance. It’s fun, it’s a piece of history, Its cool, and I’ll be sad to see it go. I have tried to describe the car as accurately. The car needs nothing to be great fun car and with some attention to paint and body, could be a real gem. As it is, it is absolutely a blast to drive. Feel free to call with any questions 303 - two five three - 5 four seven 5, or martincharleswillie@gmail.com. $19,500 in Denver. Thanks, Martin
  23. Hey guys and gals, I wanted to let you know we have another 2002 available for sale. This 1974 BMW 2002 has been modified and recommissioned to running driving condition after a couple years off the road. We think this car will make a great drivable restoration project for its next owner. Although the body of this vehicle shows areas that need rust and paint repair it is a very structurally sound car that could be enjoyed as is if the buyer does not want to undertake a full restoration. A long list of service and modification has been performed to this car over the past two years. During that time work has been performed on the engine, drivetrain, interior, and exterior to bring the car to its current condition. The list of recently installed parts below should give a buyer comfort that this car has been cared for. Service, modification and repair over the last two years include: - Getrag 5 speed transmission install (2015) - Ireland Engineering fender flare install (2015) - Ireland Engineering rear bumper install (2015) - Ireland Engineering air dam included but not installed - Bilstein HD Strut Inserts (2015) - New Rota 15x7" wheels (2014) - New Kuhmo Ectsta AST 195/50/15 tires (2014) - European turn signal install (2015) - Vintage Autobahn Flag Mirror install (2016) - Raid steering wheel install (2015) - Procar front seat install (2016) - Matching rear seat and parcel shelf install (2016) - OEM door panel install (2016) - Carpet kit install (2016) - M3 starter install (2014) - Ireland Engineering distributor install (2014) - Pertronix igniter install (2016) - Bosch blue coil install (2016) - Top End Performance exhaust kit (2014) - Spark plug, cap and rotor install (2016) - Timing set (2016) - Oil change (2016) - Coolant flush (2016) - Valve cover, timing cover & intake manifold gaskets replaced (2016) - Rebuilt driveshaft install (2015) - Getrag 5 Speed install (2015) According to the BMW Archives this vehicle was originally delivered with Polaris silver paint. The car was repainted in blue at one point and is now in a mostly primer finish. The fender flares, rear bumper, and lower panels were painted with a satin black to clean up the look of the vehicle. This was a quick paint and by no means a complete job. Please remember this vehicle is over 40 years old so it does show rust, bubbling, rock chips, scratches and touch ups. As shown in the photos the interior is in very nice condition with no rips or tears in the seats. The headliner and dash board could stand to be replaced during a restoration process. After performing all of these repairs this car is in usable condition but in need of further refurbishment to be a reliable daily driver. The transmission shifts smoothly and does not have any synchromesh issues, the engine does not smoke and the rear differential does not whine. While this car is on its way to being a nice resto-mod or project car, the buyer should assume that many more components will need repair before it is complete. The car is available for inspection in the Portland, Oregon metro area. Please contact us at Sales@VintageAutobahn.com if you are interested in the car, need more info on the car, or would like to see more photos. We are asking $5,000 for this car on Craigslist and eBay but would be happy to sell it for less to a faq member.
  24. Found this 2002 near where I live. I'm sure I can talk him down to around $1,000 but I'm not 100% on if it's worth it. Don't know much about these cars but have been looking for a old classic just like it for a while. https://medford.craigslist.org/cto/6189402833.html
  25. I recently purchased a Zender front air dam from a guy locally, whom bought it from a forum member. It is looking good on my daily driver, but I am fairly certain the air damn is meant to be used with fender flares (as it sticks out an inch or so.) If anybody has any fender flares, perhaps even ones that have previously been cut, I would love to check them out. The purchase is more of a desire than a necessity, so I am in no big hurry, but would love to complete the look at some point.
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