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Found 743 results

  1. I give up on the brakes. Can some please help me to explain how i am to bench load the master cylinder , with 5 lines to plug on the 73. i have been using a power bleeder and i cannot get any oil to the rear brakes. New Master Cylinder, New lines, new oil, New wheel cylinders, everything new but no oil Jake
  2. I ordered calipers for my '72 Tii - it was a tight install and I realized why as the ends of the calipers are rubbing against the lip of the rotor drum. A1 Cardone #s 19-226 & 19-227 per the site I bought them from. I went to the partsgeek site and they list a different part number but the picture they show is of the ones I have. Please help, what should I be looking for?
  3. Do I need to paint these sexy things or is the grey gonna work and not rust? Thanks, Ryan
  4. I finally got around to diagnosing the squeek in my right front wheel. jacked up, checked the bearing with the wheel still on, no free play, but turning the wheel could feel that the caliper was sticking. Took off the wheel removed the pads and discovered that one was thicker than the other, and the other was uneven, like on piston on that side was stuck, pulled off the caliper for closer inspection and I think in fact 3 out of 4 pistons are stuck... went ahead and just ordered new calipers. One question: what's the bleed order for installing the new calipers? I've never bled a caliper with 3 bleeders before also noticed that it's time to install the stainless hoses I picked up last year as these seem to be OG and have been on the car for 39 years.... note the dated rings on the hoses that say "DOT 01/76" Anyone know what part this end link bushing is? looks like it needs replacing and I'm sure it's partner on the other side does too...
  5. is it possible to have tii rotors and volvo or e-21/ e-24 calipers. I might have tii rotors(or e-21) but the hawk pads i have for a tii dont fit the pins. the calipers are 4 pot btw. I searched for this and didnt find much the distance between the caliper bolt holes ia @ 3 inches center to center po insisted the rotors are tii but they are vented. ty for any help
  6. I had one stuck piston in my brake caliper and I broke it. I was tapping on it with a brass hammer and learned just how brittle they are. What is left is especially crumbly and getting smaller and smaller, as I mess with it. I modified a puller to grab the pistons, using the groove that the rubber boot sits in. It worked pretty well, but this piston was too far in to get a grip on it. I looked up piston pullers online and saw that they grab the piston from the inside. Now I know why. I NEED one of those grabbers... and another piston, unfortunately. I called NAPA and they had never heard of such a tool. I can't see it getting enough of a grip anyway. Another solution would be to find a way to put more pressure behind it to push it out. My air compressor is currently putting 150 psi on it, but no go. I guess I will add a little heat to the equation. Ideally there would be a member close by with a spare piston for sale, but I am guessing I will have to wait for the mailman. I suppose I could pick up a remanufactured caliper and rob a piston... but another piston will only help if I can get the stuck one OUT. It has moved a little, but in the wrong direction. Any suggestions would be appreciated. EDIT: I may try the grease gun trick, but want to put some sort of 'chamber' in line, to keep the grease out of the caliper. SORRY FOR THE PHOTO LOSS I FILLED MY PHOTOBUCKET TO THE LIMIT AND LOST A FEW (Okay, I started another Photobucket account and replaced the photos).
  7. Looking to purchase re-manufactured, 2 piston brake calipers for a 1968 2002. Looking for ready-to install condition; not calipers that need to be rebuilt. Thank you.
  8. So I am going to replace my master brake cylinder and the hoses that run from the reservoir. I know everyone says bench bleed, bench bleed, bench bleed, but I was curious if you could use a pressure bleeder to fill the master cylinder from the bleed nipple. I was told this was how it was done at the factory from an old BMW trained 2002 mechanic. The way I see this working is I could turkey baster out the fluid form the reservoir, fill a pressure bleeder with that amount, recognizing that I will loose a bit to spillage. Then install the new - dry - master cylinder, weigh the brakes down with a brick, and fill them backwards until the reservoir starts to fill. Will the master cylinder work backwards like this? Or am I missing some crucial gasket one-way valve, you can't go in through the out-door kinda thing?
  9. Bought a used neueclasse engine...#1255223. We weren't there when it came out and are trying to identify the hose coming out right below the Cylinder Head on the drivers side? Does anyone know and from there what it attaches to? Any help will be appreciated. DK
  10. Hey all, I'm planning for a possible cross-country road trip and trying to get the car ready. It has the volvo brake upgrade from the PO that I need to do the bearings on (non-Tii). It's looking like I need bearings fm a 1981-83 e21? Can anyone confirm?? Thanks, TK
  11. Hello All, Working on the garage find '74tii again. Last weekend I got the front calipers replaced with Cardone rebuilts and successfully bleed the brakes (at least the fronts) and road tested. Before replacing the front calipers, I attempted to bleed the system - the front barely bleed and the rears not at all. After replacing the calipers the fronts bleed fine and the rears still didn't bleed at all. I used a Motive pressure bleeder, and pushed at least a quart of fluid through for good measure. On the road test the pedal was a little soft, or just different from my '73tii, but I certainly was able to stop and also lock the brakes (at least the fronts) on demand. So now I'm working the rears. It appears, if my knowledge about brakes is correct, that the lines have been replaced in the past with stainless braided lines (see photo). I'm wondering what the next steps are. Perhaps an important note, the hubs do NOT turn freely, it takes quite and effort to spin either side, sort of like the brakes are partially on. One question is - what is the lower line in the photos - the one that attaches to be bottom of the brakes? Could that be my culprit? Any advice of course if welcome, and encouraged. Thanks, David So, the rears
  12. SOLD! Brand new in box Wilwood calipers with pads. Had big plans but sold my 02. Now these need a new home. Preferably in your car not my garage. Paid $370, yours for $150. Includes the following: 2x Wilwood 120-8729 Powerlite radial mount calipers Wilwood 150-8813K brake pads drawings for mounting brackets on standard 2002 struts cobbled-together mock-up mount Using your assortment of flat washers and bolts, you can confirm the correct dimensions in my drawings (or alter them as needed) and carve out some simple adapters from aluminum or steel flat bar stock. If using aluminum I would recommend helicoiling the tapped mounting holes for durability. These are the smallest 4-piston calipers Wilwood makes, and I positively confirmed that they fit with room to spare in my 13 inch steel wheels using e21 rotors. Your results may vary. You'll need a few other parts to make this work if converting a standard 02 front brake setup: e21 hubs e21 vented rotors e21 master cylinder brake proportioning valve flex lines PM me if you want these. Thanks. -Rojo
  13. So, never owned a brake power bleeder and looks like I should. Seems the Motive Power Bleeder is the one of choice on this board, but there are many, many "kits" out there and I'm not sure which to buy. I really only plan on using it for the 2002tii. I do own a Honda van and my son's Nissan 300zx, but I can only get my hands greasy so much and those cars usually go to a shop for repairs. Any suggestions would be helpful. Right now I'm looking at the 0100 European kit for $54, or the upgraded 0109 for $69
  14. Well the '74tii garage find got its maiden trip around the block. After replacing all the soft fuel lines, cleaning the screen and replacing the filter and changing the oil... etc. (new battery too of course) - she fired up and ran pretty ruff at idle, not bad under load. I slapping the newly mounted rubber and rims on her and found that the clutch worked and was able to reverse out of the garage under her own power! Yah!. On the last leg around the block she began to pull really hard to the right and I nursed her back to the garage. Suspicions were correct and the front right brake caliper has seized. Looks like I need to flush the brake fluid and see if I can get the caliper moving freely again. Any suggestions would be helpful, I've never done this before. (note : not looking to replace the calipers - I did that on my keeper '73tii last summer at a cost I don't particularly want to revisit / I'm also hoping they don't need to be rebuilt, but I know there are kits for that if they are "re-buildable" in the first place) They did work for 3/4 of the trip, so I'm hoping with a bleed and some penetrating oil / spray / (WD40?) they may come back to life (hope springs eternal). As a side note, she ran nicely around the block, suspension was tight, the transmission and gear shift slick, and the engine not too bad - certainly needs adjustments. Any step by step (for idiots) instructions / links / photos would be amazing.
  15. Been a couple / few weeks. Son is in his senior year and there was prom (actually 3 different ones), soccer games, and life.... Finally got in the garage last weekend after a 3 week hiatus. I had bought the Motive brake bleeder and was ready to bleed and attempt to fix my stuck front passenger caliper.... or so I thought. Screwed on the pressure bleeder, pumped it up to 15 psi, opened the rear bleeder... and nothing. Tried the other rear brake.... nothing. Went to fronts, Driver side bleed from 2 out of three screws, passenger side barely bleed out of 1. I was able to push about 3 reservoirs of full clean fluid through the fronts eventually, but nothing out of the backs. Read something about bleeding the brake booster under the hood before bleeding the rears. Will have to look into that more tomorrow (waiting for my plane currently). Then I checked to see if the pistons in the front moved (I had finally gotten the brake pads out of the stuck caliper). Yep they moved... badly. Torn boot and only 1 piston moving from each side (one top, one bottom) on the passenger side, and two pistons on one side moving from the driver's caliper. well... shit. So I pulled the calipers and bit the bullet and ordered newly rebuilt ones (autozone - cardone $246, then $81 back in cores) that should be waiting for me once I get home. For giggles I'll post the messed up caliper photos I took when I'm back home - the airport lounge has pathetic wifi. I'll read up on installing new calipers and properly bleeding them before I start this weekend. (keeping the old pads - they are barely used, and the wierd drilled rotors for now). Any advice beyond what I can scrounge up on this site (and general "I'm an idiot and never replaced calipers" site) feel free to post. Cheers, David
  16. Stock 230mm rear drum brakes off my 74. shoes in decent shape, comes with back plates, wheel cylinders, all Springs and hardware. located in temple city, ca asking $100 will ship at buyers expense
  17. Hello, Has anyone used the FTE caliper kits? They don't come with the metal retaining rings and I threw mine away. Do I just not need them with this kit? If I do, anyone know where to get them? Here's the Kit http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/34111103289-MFG33-V5422.aspx Here's my calipers. Seems like a tight fit for the ring: Any experience appreciated! Thanks, Ryan
  18. I'm doing the all BMW solution for adding vented front rotors. Tii struts are installed, with rebuilt large bearing (used) E21 hubs. First I noticed the front hubs each use a different size rotor hold down screw. With the rotors installed, the caliper touches the outer surface of the rotor, like the caliper is too far in. This is true for the driver and passenger sides. I've read some articles here on FAQ saying to use washers as spacers. If i used any spacers betweem the caliper and strut, it qould being the caliper even further in. Do I not have the hubs installed correctly? What am I missing here?
  19. Bought these but didn't end up needing them. Set of Shoes: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/10198 2x Drums: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/34211101741 2x Bearings: https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/repair-kit-wheel-bearing-for-rear-axle-1502-1602-1802-2002-2002ti-2002tii-you-need-2-for-1-car-33-20-11.html Local pickup preferred. Message me your offer.
  20. Hey guys, Having issue disconnecting the brake pedal from the shaft that travels up to the master vacuum. It is the only thing stopping me from removing my pedal box and I cannot figure out what I need to do because my shop manual is rubbish in this section. Any advice?
  21. Hey guys, Having issue disconnecting the brake pedal from the shaft that travels up to the master vacuum. It is the only thing stopping me from removing my pedal box and I cannot figure out what I need to do because my shop manual is rubbish in this section. Any advice?
  22. Hi guys, Can any brake people help me out here I have been looking for a suitable single remote servo to replace the twin remote servo setup on my RHD 2002. And have recently come across this product. https://www.mpbrakes.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=AE0F85E9DDC446C8AFA40191940E1C58 Has anyone had experience with this product or know if it would work with the stock MC? Thanks for your time,
  23. Good Afternoon everyone! I have been working on my brakes on and off for the past few months. I have installed new rotors,calipers,drums,pads,shoes,brake cylinders,flex hoses and just yesterday I replaced the brake master cylinder. Now what I can't figure out is when I try to bleed the brakes,I am not getting any brake fluid to the rear. The bleeders are bone dry.is there something I'm doing incorrectly? I've searched through the site and haven't seen anyone else with this same problem. Any expertly advise is greatly appreciated.
  24. Howdy, Back at the project '74 tii this weekend. I'm getting around to changing the transmission fluid and differential fluid. On the differential, I searched the FAQ and saw that 75w90 is the preferred fluid, but the the transmission fluid recommendations vary in relation to the type / age of the transmission. The transmission in the 74 tii project has been replaced with a 5 speed, so I'm hoping that one of you experts can tell me which 5 speed this is and what fluid to put in. I'm not looking to ordering Redline fluid, just pick some appropriate fluid up at the auto parts store. If someone know the which transmission this is and the correct fluid and amount that would be most helpful. and if anyone has any thoughts on replacing this brake cylinder I'd appreciate that too. Here are pictures.
  25. I'm sure this topic has come up before, but I wanted to get the most current inputs that people may have. I just got my '73 tii back from a full driveline rebuild, and could not be happier with the performance and quality of work. Unfortunately however, my brakes are clearly showing their age as they almost failed completely on my second day driving the car yesterday. I had planned on troubleshooting that problem and doing a normal full brake job as I'm sure the pads, drums, wheel cylinders, etc, are all in need of service and/or replacement. But then I got to thinking that for the amount of work effectively rebuild the whole existing system, I may want to go ahead and do an upgrade of the brakes now, which I had planned to get to eventually anyway. So, my questions for the group are: 1. What are the typical brake upgrades/kits that have people done sucessfully? 2. How much did you pay for your parts/kits, and where did you buy them? 3. How much better are they than stock (especially for any tii owners)? 4. Anything critical to know, or to avoid when upgrading? Any inputs are welcome and much appreciated. I'm just trying to get an idea of what some of the best options are out there. Thanks, Crash
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