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Found 34 results

  1. $60 + actual shipping - Alternator (for a early 70's Bravera, 3.0 CS or early M6) Just rebuilt 6 months ago and it works just fine. It is the wrong one for my 2002 tii and it doesn't have internal rubber mounts that the tii's have/need. It is in great shape. TAKEN - Clardy A/C Blower unit. What you see is what you get, no metal dash bracket, no compressor. When I pulled this out of my car the blower fan worked great. I can try and answer any questions you have Also I am open to trades too Let me know what you have. Thanks for looking Nick
  2. Frigiking A/C unit. Includes evaporator, blower, knobs, and all trim pieces. Only cosmetic issue is the bottom right corner of the front panel broke off. Looks like the previous owner taped it back together. Easy to fix properly with glue. $250 plus shipping from Atlanta. FedEx will be pretty expensive since it requires a large box, or I could ship with Amtrak.
  3. I purchased this car last month from owner of 12 years to remove the 5-speed and driveshaft to trade out with the 4-speed from my tii resto. Figured I could tool around in until my restoration is complete. After receiving the car and driving it and seeing how original and clean it is; I just couldn't do it. Made it easier when I was able to find a 5-speed here on the FAQ. I purchase in Maryland from a very nice older man; where it was stored in a garage and well taken care of. The car is originally from California and the owner mentioned the engine was a factory replacement but I found a notebook of all repairs and it lists a low mile (55,000) tii motor being installed in car with a carb set up instead of fuel injection. The Pastellblau paint is nice on the car except the hood, will polish up very nice. The Sunroof needs some adjustment, I was able to open and lube up but still won't move with crank. Here is what he lists in his ad about the car. It has some nice enhancements: BMW 2002 tii engine - factory replacement with very low miles (reported to be less than 5000 - I've driven less than 50 miles); BMW 5 speed manual transmission from a BMW E21 320i with short shifter kit - very nice feel BMW E30 325 Lemmerz wheels in basketweave pattern with proper offset ET30 with 4 original BBS center caps (plus 1 spare with no cap); Original Behr radiator upgraded from a BMW 320i; Stahl headers and Ansa exhaust; Has A/C but not used; I think everything is there to get working. Mileage on the chassis is estimated to be about 129,000 (odometer has stopped at 110,992). The interior is in good condition with older style BMW 2002 steering wheel and aftermarket Flofit seats in good shape with no rips but 2 small burn like circles on the upper back left side of the driver side. The dash is in excellent condition with no major cracks (a couple of small splits at the base where the dash rises to fit the instrument speedometer cluster). It starts and drives and stops and all lights work inside and outside. The picture of the engine compartment was taken when it was running - no smoke visible. The Stahl long headers to Ansa free flow exhaust sounds good and noticeable. The radiator and cooling system were flushed in the spring and oil was changed. It was repainted 15 years ago and looks decent (hood paint has dulled and appears to have been replaced, not original as you can see green paint). The hood has rust along the edges on the underside by hinges but does not affect opening and closing or is noticeable from outside . The trunk floor and shock towers are solid with no rust. The seat floor pans are decent with very small rust on the passenger front one. The front windshield needs the lockstrip (included) installed. Windows roll up and down. The driver side inside door panel is loose from the door and just needs new fittings. Tires hold air but are old and should be replaced. I noticed after receiving that the exhaust rattles against the frame as the muffler rubber brackets have broken. I wired up temporarily until I can get to a muffler shop. As is always the problem here in Southern California; I cannot provide a SMOG certificate so it will be sold as a PARTS Car if purchased by someone here and the clean Maryland title provided. I will take better pictures of the car tomorrow. Call/Text at 858-208-8449 or email colletti.charles@yahoo.com
  4. Hey, so a friend of mine has sold off his auto junk yard after 45 years. he is getting rid of a lot of parts. one guy was there on his third trip and all he is taking is British stuff, don't ask me why. maybe he likes warm beer too. anyway i am rounding up just 2002 stuff and bring it home to the warehouse building. 2002's were some of his best selling stuff back in his hay day. at one point he employed 18 people. now he is lucky if he gets one call a day for any kind of parts. so he gives me a holler and hauls this out and now the only marking on the entire unit. and now a full view. so for all you old timers, does anyone have a guess as to who made this. as for the unit i like it because it really is not wider than a standard console except for the bump outs. i will be opening it up to investigate the guts in the next few days. sorry about the picture orientation. thanks, stone
  5. Having recently completed my air conditioning system, i thought i would layout what it takes to install your own modern air conditioning system. Air conditioning is one of those mysterious things that everyone is afraid of when in actuality its not much more complicated that the coolant system on an M10. There is a liquid that gets pumped around a sealed system and as it expands it cools and then we compress it again through the compressor, lower its temperature though the condenser and then repeat the process. A basic air conditioning system is made up of the following components. Evaporator (The unit that mounts in the vehicle and has your AC controls and vents) Compressor and mounting bracket Condenser (The radiator that mounts at the front of the car in the engine bay) Electric push fan Hoses and dryer I will discuss what you need to know about each component: EVAPORATOR This is going to be the toughest component to track down because you cannot buy a new unit. 2002 did not come with air conditioning from factory and so you have to track down an aftermarket unit from the 70's that was installed into the cars by the dealer. You need to source a used Clady, Behr or Fridgeking evaporator / center console though the for sale forums. Any unit you get should be pressure tested and the expansion valve replaced. This is my Behr system. The systems all look different and different people prefer the looks of different systems. The evaporator produces a large amount of water when it operates and the evaporators have a water drain hole in the bottom. You will need to drill a hole through the top of the transmission tunnel to install a rubber drain hose so that the water doesn't flood your interior. The switches for the evaporator should be cleaned, checked for electrical function. Remember old evaporators use flare fittings. Modern hose kits are O ring kits. You will need flare to O ring adapters that are used with flare fittings in order to convert the flare fittings to O ring fittings. #6 and #10 flare adapters. https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/6-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/10-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html You can also buy copper crush washers which go into the flare adapters to help with the seal if your flare ends aren't in pristine condition. COMPRESSOR AND BRACKET We will keep this simple. The old system compressors are much larger and heavier than modern rotary style compressors. Dont even bother with an old compressor. Buy a modern Sanden 508 compressor. You can buy genuine Sanden for $250 or a chinese knockoff for $130-$150. You will need a V belt model and these can be gotten from Ebay or http://nostalgicac.com/. Very important. The Compressors must be filed with oil. There are different types of oil and some oils are compatible with old style freon (R12) and some are compatible with new style freon (R134a). Since R12 can no longer be obtained you might as well plan on using R134a freon which mean Pag or Ester oil. Compressor uses 6oz of oil after you fully drain all the shipping oil from the unit. The bracket is easy. The Clardy system came with a bracket that fits the Sanden 508 compressor but also luckily a 2002faq member is now making an excellent bracket which can be bought from hobiedave. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/82340-custom-made-ac-compressor-brackets-sold-out/?hl=hobiedave CONDENSER The condenser is simply a matter of size. The bigger the better but you need to factor in how big can you fit into the nose of the 2002 and whether or not you are willing to cut the support bars to fit a larger condenser. A 9" x 12" condenser fits perfectly with no cutting however that is definitely considered on the small size. They make 10" x 18" condensers which might just fit without cutting but i have not tested this. You will need to decide how big you want to go here. You will need to mount this to the front of the nose, there are condenser mounting straps or you can zip tie it in depending on how much drilling and modifying you want to do. FAN You will need an electric fan on a relay kit to blow air through the condenser. The fan should be sized appropriately to fit into the nose of the 2002. I used a 10 inch fan which in my opinion fit perfectly. Don't forget to power the fan directly from the battery with a relay kit since it draws a lot of amps. HOSES AND DRYER People get scared by the plumbing of the AC system, but its actually very simple. There are standard AC hose sizes and certain sizes go between certain components. You will use #10, #8 and #6 size hose in your install. The #10 runs from the evaporator to the compressor. The #8 runs from the compressor to the Condenser. The #6 runs from the condenser to the dryer and then back to the evaporator. Ebay and http://nostalgicac.com/ sell "Hose Kits" which include the hoses, connections, safety switch and the dryer. Buy a universal kit and it should have everything you need! The safety switch measures freon pressure levels and cutoff the system if levels get too high or too low. It gets wired in series with the AC controls and compressor. To make your own AC lines you will need a crimper tool. I used this one and it worked great. I also used a substance called Nyloc with all my o ring fittings. Its a type of AC sealant and you coat the O rings in it before tightening and it helps to minimize any leaks. This stuff is option but recommended. Once everything is installed you will need to have the system charged with freon by a professional AC shop. But if everything goes to plan you will have good cold AC for under $1000. EDIT: If you wish to charge the system your self, you will need a proper 3 line gauge set ($35 on ebay) and a vacuum pump ($50 on ebay) Attach the low and high pressure lines to the AC system, attach vacuum pump to yellow line and start vacuuming. Open low pressure side valve on gauge and allow pressure to drop to -30psi. Vacuum for 30 minutes to remove moisture and air from system. Close low pressure valve and remove pump. Make sure system holds negative pressure for 30 minutes to ensure no leaks. Afterwards attach a can of Freon to yellow line. Start car and turn on AC to max. Open low pressure valve and let Freon into system. Low pressure should jump up to 60 psi but then the compressor should kick on and pressure will drop down to below 20. Note that the compressor pulley always spins but only when the clutch kicks in and the center part of the pulley is spinning is Freon being pumped! System will likely need 2 cans of R134a Freon (Maybe a little more. 3 cans is too much). We want low pressure of about 30-35 psi and high pressure around 250 on a nice day. (Pressures vary by day time temperatures). Remember to close the low pressure valve when switching Freon cans. Also the gauges pressures sometimes take a while to settle so add the 2 cans and then rev the motor up and let the system cycle a bit before deciding if pressures are right or if more is needed. A system with too much Freon will not cool! More is not better! View full article
  6. Hi all, I'm getting ready to install A/C on my '75 and I need to replace the expansion valve on my Frigiking evaporator. Does anyone know where to get a new valve? I've looked at a few other topics on this but can't find any definitive answers, just the advice to get a new one. Here are some photos: This this one from Nostalgic A/C looks close - will it work? http://nostalgicac.com/driers-valves/expansion-valves/oring-expansion-valve.html thanks, Garrett
  7. Price:: 1000 Location: : Boulder, CO Edit: System is sold! I have a complete Behr A/C system that I just removed from my '72 2002. The system was 100% operational and blowing cold when I removed it from the car. Includes the following: 1. Center console unit with both control knobs, hazard switch, ash tray, and side panels. 2. Compressor, compressor bracket for M10, belt and tensioner for compressor. (bracket and tensioner/belt are not pictured but are included) 3. Condensor/fan unit. 4. All wiring and relays needed for installation. 5. All hoses needed for installation. 6. 95% of the hardware needed, except for the few nuts/washers that invariably get dropped and roll under the toolbox every time I work on the car. This is as complete a system as you will find. Condition is as pictured. Clean it up, install, and go! Will ship at buyer's expense if necessary.
  8. Anybody have an A/C Line Crimp tool? I'd hate to drop $150 on something for a 1 time use. (As if I don't have enough specialty tools already!) http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-71550-Conditioner-Hose-Crimper/dp/B000WBQ4U2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SF52J96CCB8MJD2BA1Z
  9. my winter project is to fix the heater fan which doesn't spin. That means removing the heater box. The problem is that the car ('72 2002) has AC, so unless I'm mistaken, I need to remove the AC unit from the console before I can get to the heater box and remove that. Does anyone have experience removing the AC from the console - can I just undo the hoses at the compressor end of the system and just pull it out? (I have already disconnected all the switches, etc, its just plumbing from here on) The AC hasn't worked in a while (so the previous owner told me), so can I assume that the system is dry and there won't be some environmental consequence when I loosen those hose clamps? Any advice would be appreciated! Kenny


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