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Found 22 results

  1. You people where the temp reaches almost 79 degrees outside just be quiet I would really like to know how well this system works where it actually gets hot. EDIT: I mean HOT and HUMID! Cheers,
  2. Hey, so a friend of mine has sold off his auto junk yard after 45 years. he is getting rid of a lot of parts. one guy was there on his third trip and all he is taking is British stuff, don't ask me why. maybe he likes warm beer too. anyway i am rounding up just 2002 stuff and bring it home to the warehouse building. 2002's were some of his best selling stuff back in his hay day. at one point he employed 18 people. now he is lucky if he gets one call a day for any kind of parts. so he gives me a holler and hauls this out and now the only marking on the entire unit. and now a full view. so for all you old timers, does anyone have a guess as to who made this. as for the unit i like it because it really is not wider than a standard console except for the bump outs. i will be opening it up to investigate the guts in the next few days. sorry about the picture orientation. thanks, stone
  3. In last week's introduction, I talked about how a/c helps extend my enjoyment of my vintage cars through the hot summer months, how I bought a used full-up Clardy system and a tii-specific crankshaft hub with a compressor pulley on it, and how I realized that, with summer on us, there was no reason to NOT start stuffing this stuff into Louie my '72 survivor-ish tii. So in I dove. In my a/c book Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning, I say that one of the nice things about a/c retrofit is that, even though it seems like a huge project, it breaks itself up nicely into the following tasks: Compressor and bracket Condenser and fan Evaporator assembly Receiver-drier Hose fabrication and installation Wiring Pressure-testing Evacuation and recharge Buttoning up Further, for the most part, the car can remain drivable once each of these phases is completed. The radiator does need to come out to install the condenser and fan inside the nose, but after that, you can usually drop it back in, refill the cooling system, and keep driving the car. On a tii, though, there's the added complication that the compressor belt runs in a groove on the crankshaft pulley behind the injection belt. This means that even to simply replace an existing compressor belt due to breakage or it being stretched past the point of adjustment, the engine has to be set to top dead center, the fan belt has to be removed, the lower pulley has to be unbolted and gently pulled off the front of the crankshaft, the upper and lower plastic timing belt covers have to be removed, and the injection belt has to be carefully slid off (and replaced if it shows signs of age). Not quite ten years ago, I'd updated the a/c in Kugel, my other '72 tii. When I bought Kugel, it still had its original York compressor and massive bracket that wrapped around the front of the water pump. As part of the update, I bought a hobiedave bracket (from Dave Donohoe here on the FAQ) and a Sanden 508 clone compressor. Any tii with dealer-installed a/c has had two slots cut into the plastic lower timing belt cover to allow the compressor belt to pass through. The Behr installation manual has a template for where to cut the slots. When I updated Kugel, I found that I not only needed to extend the slots by quite a bit, but I also needed to rout out the slots in the lower timing cover on the front of the engine itself. I'll cover these issues in the next installment. However, at least Kugel had dealer-installed air, so it already had the a/c front hub that's unique to the tii with the compressor pulley sitting behind the cogged gear for the injection belt, and slots cut for the compressor belt. Louie didn't have any of that. I'd bought the tii-specific a/c hub on eBay years back. Now I needed to install it. So, for this a/c retrofit, this was task #0 added to the above list. The hen's-teeth-rate tii-specific a/c crankshaft hub The first step was to remove the old crankshaft hub, because if I couldn't, it was game over for a/c retrofit. For that, I needed access to the hub, so the radiator had to come out and the front sway bar end links needed to be disconnected so I could tip the bar forward and out of the way. I first set the engine to TDC using the marks on the front pulley and timing belt cover, then undid the four 10mm bolts holding on the front pulley and gently pulled it off. I then put a 36mm socket on a breaker bar and, with the car in gear and the handbrake on, tried to break the nut on the crank hub. Trying to remove the crankshaft nut with a breaker bar. And failing. Of course, this didn't work—it moved the car before moving the nut—but it DID succeed in moving the engine away from TDC by an amount I couldn't tell because the TDC mark was on the pulley I'd just removed. D'oh! So I temporarily put the pulley back on, lined the engine back up to TDC, made sure I could see the TDC mark through the bell housing window since the one on the front pulley was about to go away, and painted the flywheel TDC mark with Wite-Out. Temporarily replacing the front pulley to read the TDC mark I then thought to look at the index marks on the Kugelfisher pump. The one on the gear should line up with one on the pump body. To my surprise, they were off from each other by a few teeth. This was how I'd been driving the car for four years. I photographed it just in case the car ran like crap when I put it all back together with the marks lined up. The indexing marks on the Kugelfischer injection pump and its toothed gear I then did what I should've done the first time and used my impact wrench on the crankshaft nut. It spun right off. Air tools to the rescue Next, I put a puller on the crankshaft hub. Like nearly any crank and hub, there's a keyway in both and a little Woodruff key keeping them in line, so if the hub hasn't been off the car in nearly 50 years, things can sometimes be pretty stuck, but it pulled off without a lot of effort. Extracting the old hub with a puller I used a Scotch Brite pad to clean off the surface of the a/c hub that runs inside the front main seal, as it had oxidized from sitting. I later also cleaned up the grooved pulley surface as well. I then compared hubs just to make sure nothing looked amiss. Original tii crankshaft hub (right) and tii-specific a/c hub (left) Then on went the a/c hub. Unlike trying to take it off, I was able to torque it down to the required 140 ft-lbs by simply having the car in gear and the handbrake on. And... installed On a non-tii, you obviously wouldn't have to futz with the hub at all to retrofit or update a/c, and you'd go straight to installing the compressor and bracket. Or, if your tii wasn't air conditioned, you could simply put the injection belt back on and button up the car. But on an air conditioned tii, the steps are intertwined. That is, you have to: Install the compressor, bracket and belt, and correct any belt alignment or tension issues. Modify the slots in the plastic lower timing belt cover if they already exist, and cut them if they don't. THEN put the injection belt back on and button things up. But I think I'll leave that for the next installment. --Rob (My a/c book Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning can be purchased here on Amazon, or personally-inscribed copies of it and my other books can be purchased directly from me here.)
  4. Introduction As many of you folks know, I'm kind of a nut about air conditioning in my vintage cars. I realize that many find that funny since I live not in Phoenix or Yuma or Miami but in relatively temperate Boston MA, but it DOES get hot and sticky up here in the summer, it does so more than the three or for days a year people sometimes assume, and we already have a shortened driving season due to winter. As I say in the introduction to my book Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning, this all started when Maire Anne and I were living in Austin 1982 through mid-1984. I'd bought my first 2002, but then found another one that had a/c (the Behr system). Unfortunately, it didn't work. A guy I worked with in my engineering job was a first-rate shade-tree mechanic whose expertise included a/c. He hooked up his gauges and diagnosed my 2002's a/c problem as a clogged expansion valve, so I tore the Behr evaporator assembly out, opened it up, and replaced the expansion valve. My friend then evacuated and recharged the system for me. Over the years, I applied that same paradigm to several of my daily drivers, paying a shop to diagnose a/c issues, replacing the parts myself, then taking the car back and paying them for evacuation and recharge. In 1999, I took the big plunge and retrofitted a/c into my 1973 E9 3.0CSi. I worked with Bob Poggi at ICE AC (yes, the same guy who now sells a 2002 a/c package, including an evaporator assembly that's patterned after the Clardy unit). Bob sent me a Seltec rotary-style compressor, a bracket to mount it to the M30 engine, a new serpentine-flow condenser, a fan, and a generic evaporator assembly. It didn't fit inside the original non-a/c center console, so, concerned that it was going to look like poorly-integrated crap, I sent it back. I then procured an original E9 Behr evaporator assembly out of a rotted car, and had Bob work with a tube-and-fin shop to custom-build a four-row evaporator core that was dimensionally identical to the original 3-row core in the original Behr system. Whether it improved cooling any was questionable. The very stock-looking retrofitted a/c evaporator assembly and console in my 1973 E9 3.0CS But I installed it all, then took the car to a hose fabrication shop in Boston to have the hoses made. For those of you who knew Boston 20 years ago, the shop was "Ellis the Rim Man" on Comm Ave, and Ed Ellis himself fabricated the hoses by the curb on Comm Ave. But more to the point, I was transfixed by his crimping on one end, cutting the hose longer than it needed to be, putting it through whatever holes it needed to pass through, threading the other fitting onto whatever component it needed to attach to, test-fitting the hose into the fitting, trimming it to length, "clocking" the fitting at the desired angle, marking the orientation of the hose and fitting, then crimping the fitting on right then and there in the car with a hand-held Mastercool 71500 Hydra-Krimp. I remember asking him "How does anyone ever get this right if they don't have the car in front of them?" He deadpanned "They don't." There were some teething issues with the E9's a/c system, but over time, I got it better and colder, and it transformed my relationship with the car. It became comfortable to go out to dinner with my wife in, or to take on long trips in hot weather. Many folks say that instead of R12 or R134a, they use R75/2 ("75 mph, two windows rolled down"). In the a/c book, I tell the story of how I was heading home from The Vintage in the E9, crossing Pennsylvania in 90-degree temperatures and 90% humidity, windows up, cool, living the dream, and passed two guys I know from VT driving a tii, both windows down, and rivers of sweat running off them that were so thick that their perspiration was literally spitting out of the car. I'm not a bad person, but I literally thought "How's that R75/2 workin' for you folks now?" As the a/c installation in the E9 required maintenance and rework over the years, I gradually amassed the manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, adapters, and the hose-crimping tool I needed to do it all myself. Since then, I've done several other from-scratch retrofits including my '79 Euro 635CSi, considerably more complicated as the a/c shares ductwork and electronic controls with the heat. And I modernized several 2002 a/c systems. But, surprisingly, I had never done a from-scratch retrofit into a 2002. Until Louie. First, let me take a quick tour of 2002 a/c systems. As I and others have written, and as you probably already know, no 2002 had factory air, but many had dealer-installed packages. There were three different ones that I'm aware of: Behr, Frigiking, and Clardy. Since Behr did the a/c in the Bavaria and the E9 coupe, it's no surprise that the Behr system in the 2002 is generally regarded as having the most factory look. In this piece I wrote for Hagerty last month, I detailed the major differences between the systems. In addition to the system's appearances, the main things you need to know are these: --The Behr system uses an evaporator assembly that contains the evaporator core, blower motor, and an old-school externally-equalized expansion valve. In order to replace any of these components, the evaporator assembly must be removed from under the dashboard and opened up. It came with a large, heavy upright York compressor that looks like a lawnmower engine and has a giant bracket to support it that actually wraps around the water pump and is secured by two of the pump's bolts into the block, requiring the compressor and bracket to be disconnected to replace the water pump, at which point many owners left it off the car. Behr 2002 console and faceplate Behr 2002 evaporator assembly Behr 2002 evaporator core and old school externally regulated expansion valve --The Frigiking system, like the Behr system, uses an externally-equalized expansion valve, but it is located OUTSIDE the evap assembly, so, at least in theory, it can be replaced without removing and opening up the box (well, maybe the latter). I believe the Frigiking system used the same upright York compressor and boat anchor of a bracket as the Behr. (pics courtesy Chris Roberts) Frigiking faceplate Frigiking evaporator assembly with externally-mounted externally-regulated expansion valve --The Clardy system is different in several ways. In terms of the expansion valve, it's is the only one of the three that uses a modern block-style internally-regulated expansion valve. Like the Frigiking, the expansion valve is mounted outside the evaporator assembly, meaning it can be replaced without needing to open the assembly. Further, it's the only system where the blower fan is outside the plastic assembly. The way it does this is a little strange; the fan hangs into the passenger-side footwell. It's also the only system that, when new, came with a modern rotary-style Sanden 508 compressor and a compact bracket to mount it to the engine block. (pics courtesy Earle Meyers) Clardy console and faceplate showing bulge on passenger side for fan CapClardy evaporator assembly with fan on right sidetion Clardy evaporator assembly showing externally-mounted internally-regulated expansion valve on left side Back to Louie. As many of you know, I bought Louie, the decade-dead '72 2002tii, sight-unseen in the winter of 2017. I then went down to Louisville KY in a rented SUV loaded with tools and parts, spent nearly a week with Jake and Liz Metz who I'd met once for 15 minutes at The Vintage, resurrected Louie in Jake's pole barn, road-tripped the car home, and wrote the book Ran When Parked about the experience. A few months later, while I was prepping Louie to run down to The Vintage, I helped my friend Jose Rosario sort out the a/c in his car. While I generally don't work on other people's cars, Jose's car has a Clardy a/c system in it, I never had seen one in the flesh, and I was curious about it. I fixed a few issues, shot one can of R134a into it (it had already been converted from R12), and was VERY impressed with how cold it got and how much air it moved. I resolved that if I ever found a Clardy system, or at least the evaporator assembly and console, I'd buy it. But they're far less common than the Behr or Frigiking systems. I then drove Louie down to The Vintage in Asheville. While I was where, I stumbled into a fellow selling a full Clardy system he'd removed from his car. We talked, haggled, and for $250, it all was mine. I loaded it into Louie's back seat and drove it home with me. (I was just cleaning up after the installation, and found this taped to one of the boxes. I think it'll live in Louie's glove compartment forever :^) The note on the box that kicked the whole thing into motion four years ago. I later saw that the fellow I bought it from had it advertised here on the FAQ: I can't cover absolutely every detail I go into in my a/c book, but one of the things I say is that, whether you're doing a from-scratch install or a resurrection of a long-dead system, you'll use re-use the evaporator assembly and console but, if you're smart, you'll throw the rest away. This is because you'll update the compressor to a newer rotary-style unit, replace the obsolete serpentine-flow condenser and small fan with the biggest parallel-flow condenser and fan you can fit in the nose (especially important when converting from R12 to R134a), will replace every hose with custom hoses because a) the original hoses will be ancient dirty leaky garbage and b) they won't fit your new components anyway, and replace the receiver-drier because you have to every time the system is opened up for any length of time. HOWEVER, if you have the opportunity to buy a full-up system at a good price, it's generally worth doing so because there may be pieces you need you're not aware of. On the E9 retrofit, this turned out to be the rare and fragile "intermediate piece" that couples the output of the evaporator assembly to the car's vents, and the two hard pipes that pass through the firewall and behind the glovebox (no room back there for hoses). In the Clardy system, the piece you don't know you need is the bracket that mounts the a/c console faceplate to the dash and holds the ashtray from the original console. It wasn't until four years later, when I opened up the boxes that contained the Clardy system, I saw the bracket, wondered what it was, and had no idea how lucky I was to have it. I'll get back to this in a later installment. The other thing about a/c in Louie is that, since it's a tii, you need the uber-rare tii-specific crankshaft pulley with the cogged gear to run the injection belt AND the pulley for the a/c compressor. I believe that all regular 2002s except the earliest cars already have the otherwise-unused compressor pulley, but not tiis. At some point, it may have even been before I bought Louie, I saw a tii a/c crankshaft pulley on eBay. At $250, it wasn't cheap, but they only show up rarely, so I clicked and bought. The hallowed tii-specific a/c front hub Fast-forward to about a month ago. 90-degree temperatures moved into Boston. Having a 2002 (Bertha), a Bavaria, a 3.0CSi, and other more modern BMWs with a/c, what happens in hot weather is that the non-a/c cars just sit until fall. I had an epiphany: Why did I buy this full-up Clardy system and the tii a/c pulley if I'm not going to install them in the tii that I own that doesn't have a/c in it? And so, operation Chillin' Louie was go. In these installments, I'll detail the choices I made and why, all pursuant to the goal of getting the car cold while attempting to satisfy the goals of a) doing so in a cost-effective fashion, and b) coming out of it with a system that, both inside the car and under the hood, doesn't look totally out of place in a survivor car like Louie. --Rob (My a/c book Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning can be purchased here on Amazon, or personally-inscribed copies of it and my other books can be purchased directly from me here.)
  5. After spending lots of time retrofitting my 73tii to new components compatible with R134a, the compressor clutch would fail to engage. Providing 12v directly from the positive battery terminal would activate the clutch, so the clutch itself was good. Using a digital VOM, the signal wire from the Behr system was only providing about 10volts, evidently not enough to engage the clutch. The fix was to add a 4 pole relay which provides the full 12v from the battery to the clutch. A simple relay was mounted next to the Spal condenser fan relay. Based on my correspondence with Rob Siegel, his thought the problem was a voltage drop thru the temperature switch. I’m assuming there are differences in the Sanden clone compressor clutch assemblies, so your system may not reveal this issue. Systems other than the Behr may also have this problem. Thanks to Marshall @M3M3M3 for the ac diagnostic assistance.
  6. Not as ugly as this one, please.... They're about 6" x 2" May entertain console parts also! Rear view: Cheers,
  7. Price:: 15 Location: : Mobile, AL As shown in pics. Serviceable condition, some exterior vinyl cracking around screw holes as shown. Shipping not included. Not for sale to BLUNT. Cheers,
  8. Anybody have an A/C Line Crimp tool? I'd hate to drop $150 on something for a 1 time use. (As if I don't have enough specialty tools already!) http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-71550-Conditioner-Hose-Crimper/dp/B000WBQ4U2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SF52J96CCB8MJD2BA1Z
  9. Does anyone know if European Cooler Air is still in business? They are (or were) located in Rockwall, TX, and made air conditioning kits for our 2002s. The console looked like a cross between a Behr and Frigiking, and was designed to work either with R12 or R134 refrigerant. Or does anyone know of another company who is currently making an A/C kit for 2002s? TIA mike
  10. Does anyone know if European Cooler Air is still in business? They are (or were) located in Rockwall, TX, and made air conditioning kits for our 2002s as well as other older imports. The '02 console looked like a cross between a Behr and Frigiking, and the unit was designed to work either with R12 or R134 refrigerant. Or does anyone know of another company who is currently making an A/C kit for 2002s? TIA mike
  11. On my updated Behr project, I was able to replace the original Ranco temperature switch with the same but new. I have not tested the fan switch which is original. I saw a couple of remarks about using a newer fan switch without the ceramic resistor. I would like to what fan switch upgrades are available. I would prefer to keep the original knob.
  12. The delays at the body shop have diminished and my car is 2 to 3 weeks from paint! So, in addition to finishing refurbishing the vent window frames, I need to re-assemble the Behr Evaporator. Tasks include repainting the two mounts, epoxy right angles brackets to replace the broken wing tabs, flush the evaporator (it has been pressure tested), replace expansion valve and reassemble. My questions are: 1. I could not find the article, but what is the type of foam needed to wrap the two copper pipes on the evaporator? and 2. I cannot locate the opening for the temperature probe in the evaporator. There is one opening going in an up towards the back. No copper sleeve. The second point reveals why I am not a doctor. Thanks!
  13. In last week's introduction, I talked about how a/c helps extend my enjoyment of my vintage cars through the hot summer months, how I bought a used full-up Clardy system and a tii-specific crankshaft hub with a compressor pulley on it, and how I realized that, with summer on us, there was no reason to NOT start stuffing this stuff into Louie my '72 survivor-ish tii. So in I dove. In my a/c book Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning, I say that one of the nice things about a/c retrofit is that, even though it seems like a huge project, it breaks itself up nicely into the following tasks: Compressor and bracket Condenser and fan Evaporator assembly Receiver-drier Hose fabrication and installation Wiring Pressure-testing Evacuation and recharge Buttoning up Further, for the most part, the car can remain drivable once each of these phases is completed. The radiator does need to come out to install the condenser and fan inside the nose, but after that, you can usually drop it back in, refill the cooling system, and keep driving the car. On a tii, though, there's the added complication that the compressor belt runs in a groove on the crankshaft pulley behind the injection belt. This means that even to simply replace an existing compressor belt due to breakage or it being stretched past the point of adjustment, the engine has to be set to top dead center, the fan belt has to be removed, the lower pulley has to be unbolted and gently pulled off the front of the crankshaft, the upper and lower plastic timing belt covers have to be removed, and the injection belt has to be carefully slid off (and replaced if it shows signs of age). Not quite ten years ago, I'd updated the a/c in Kugel, my other '72 tii. When I bought Kugel, it still had its original York compressor and massive bracket that wrapped around the front of the water pump. As part of the update, I bought a hobiedave bracket (from Dave Donohoe here on the FAQ) and a Sanden 508 clone compressor. Any tii with dealer-installed a/c has had two slots cut into the plastic lower timing belt cover to allow the compressor belt to pass through. The Behr installation manual has a template for where to cut the slots. When I updated Kugel, I found that I not only needed to extend the slots by quite a bit, but I also needed to rout out the slots in the lower timing cover on the front of the engine itself. I'll cover these issues in the next installment. However, at least Kugel had dealer-installed air, so it already had the a/c front hub that's unique to the tii with the compressor pulley sitting behind the cogged gear for the injection belt, and slots cut for the compressor belt. Louie didn't have any of that. I'd bought the tii-specific a/c hub on eBay years back. Now I needed to install it. So, for this a/c retrofit, this was task #0 added to the above list. The hen's-teeth-rate tii-specific a/c crankshaft hub The first step was to remove the old crankshaft hub, because if I couldn't, it was game over for a/c retrofit. For that, I needed access to the hub, so the radiator had to come out and the front sway bar end links needed to be disconnected so I could tip the bar forward and out of the way. I first set the engine to TDC using the marks on the front pulley and timing belt cover, then undid the four 10mm bolts holding on the front pulley and gently pulled it off. I then put a 36mm socket on a breaker bar and, with the car in gear and the handbrake on, tried to break the nut on the crank hub. Trying to remove the crankshaft nut with a breaker bar. And failing. Of course, this didn't work—it moved the car before moving the nut—but it DID succeed in moving the engine away from TDC by an amount I couldn't tell because the TDC mark was on the pulley I'd just removed. D'oh! So I temporarily put the pulley back on, lined the engine back up to TDC, made sure I could see the TDC mark through the bell housing window since the one on the front pulley was about to go away, and painted the flywheel TDC mark with Wite-Out. Temporarily replacing the front pulley to read the TDC mark I then thought to look at the index marks on the Kugelfisher pump. The one on the gear should line up with one on the pump body. To my surprise, they were off from each other by a few teeth. This was how I'd been driving the car for four years. I photographed it just in case the car ran like crap when I put it all back together with the marks lined up. The indexing marks on the Kugelfischer injection pump and its toothed gear I then did what I should've done the first time and used my impact wrench on the crankshaft nut. It spun right off. Air tools to the rescue Next, I put a puller on the crankshaft hub. Like nearly any crank and hub, there's a keyway in both and a little Woodruff key keeping them in line, so if the hub hasn't been off the car in nearly 50 years, things can sometimes be pretty stuck, but it pulled off without a lot of effort. Extracting the old hub with a puller I used a Scotch Brite pad to clean off the surface of the a/c hub that runs inside the front main seal, as it had oxidized from sitting. I later also cleaned up the grooved pulley surface as well. I then compared hubs just to make sure nothing looked amiss. Original tii crankshaft hub (right) and tii-specific a/c hub (left) Then on went the a/c hub. Unlike trying to take it off, I was able to torque it down to the required 140 ft-lbs by simply having the car in gear and the handbrake on. And... installed On a non-tii, you obviously wouldn't have to futz with the hub at all to retrofit or update a/c, and you'd go straight to installing the compressor and bracket. Or, if your tii wasn't air conditioned, you could simply put the injection belt back on and button up the car. But on an air conditioned tii, the steps are intertwined. That is, you have to: Install the compressor, bracket and belt, and correct any belt alignment or tension issues. Modify the slots in the plastic lower timing belt cover if they already exist, and cut them if they don't. THEN put the injection belt back on and button things up. But I think I'll leave that for the next installment. --Rob (My a/c book Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning can be purchased here on Amazon, or personally-inscribed copies of it and my other books can be purchased directly from me here.) View full article
  14. Introduction As many of you folks know, I'm kind of a nut about air conditioning in my vintage cars. I realize that many find that funny since I live not in Phoenix or Yuma or Miami but in relatively temperate Boston MA, but it DOES get hot and sticky up here in the summer, it does so more than the three or for days a year people sometimes assume, and we already have a shortened driving season due to winter. As I say in the introduction to my book Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning, this all started when Maire Anne and I were living in Austin 1982 through mid-1984. I'd bought my first 2002, but then found another one that had a/c (the Behr system). Unfortunately, it didn't work. A guy I worked with in my engineering job was a first-rate shade-tree mechanic whose expertise included a/c. He hooked up his gauges and diagnosed my 2002's a/c problem as a clogged expansion valve, so I tore the Behr evaporator assembly out, opened it up, and replaced the expansion valve. My friend then evacuated and recharged the system for me. Over the years, I applied that same paradigm to several of my daily drivers, paying a shop to diagnose a/c issues, replacing the parts myself, then taking the car back and paying them for evacuation and recharge. In 1999, I took the big plunge and retrofitted a/c into my 1973 E9 3.0CSi. I worked with Bob Poggi at ICE AC (yes, the same guy who now sells a 2002 a/c package, including an evaporator assembly that's patterned after the Clardy unit). Bob sent me a Seltec rotary-style compressor, a bracket to mount it to the M30 engine, a new serpentine-flow condenser, a fan, and a generic evaporator assembly. It didn't fit inside the original non-a/c center console, so, concerned that it was going to look like poorly-integrated crap, I sent it back. I then procured an original E9 Behr evaporator assembly out of a rotted car, and had Bob work with a tube-and-fin shop to custom-build a four-row evaporator core that was dimensionally identical to the original 3-row core in the original Behr system. Whether it improved cooling any was questionable. The very stock-looking retrofitted a/c evaporator assembly and console in my 1973 E9 3.0CS But I installed it all, then took the car to a hose fabrication shop in Boston to have the hoses made. For those of you who knew Boston 20 years ago, the shop was "Ellis the Rim Man" on Comm Ave, and Ed Ellis himself fabricated the hoses by the curb on Comm Ave. But more to the point, I was transfixed by his crimping on one end, cutting the hose longer than it needed to be, putting it through whatever holes it needed to pass through, threading the other fitting onto whatever component it needed to attach to, test-fitting the hose into the fitting, trimming it to length, "clocking" the fitting at the desired angle, marking the orientation of the hose and fitting, then crimping the fitting on right then and there in the car with a hand-held Mastercool 71500 Hydra-Krimp. I remember asking him "How does anyone ever get this right if they don't have the car in front of them?" He deadpanned "They don't." There were some teething issues with the E9's a/c system, but over time, I got it better and colder, and it transformed my relationship with the car. It became comfortable to go out to dinner with my wife in, or to take on long trips in hot weather. Many folks say that instead of R12 or R134a, they use R75/2 ("75 mph, two windows rolled down"). In the a/c book, I tell the story of how I was heading home from The Vintage in the E9, crossing Pennsylvania in 90-degree temperatures and 90% humidity, windows up, cool, living the dream, and passed two guys I know from VT driving a tii, both windows down, and rivers of sweat running off them that were so thick that their perspiration was literally spitting out of the car. I'm not a bad person, but I literally thought "How's that R75/2 workin' for you folks now?" As the a/c installation in the E9 required maintenance and rework over the years, I gradually amassed the manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, adapters, and the hose-crimping tool I needed to do it all myself. Since then, I've done several other from-scratch retrofits including my '79 Euro 635CSi, considerably more complicated as the a/c shares ductwork and electronic controls with the heat. And I modernized several 2002 a/c systems. But, surprisingly, I had never done a from-scratch retrofit into a 2002. Until Louie. First, let me take a quick tour of 2002 a/c systems. As I and others have written, and as you probably already know, no 2002 had factory air, but many had dealer-installed packages. There were three different ones that I'm aware of: Behr, Frigiking, and Clardy. Since Behr did the a/c in the Bavaria and the E9 coupe, it's no surprise that the Behr system in the 2002 is generally regarded as having the most factory look. In this piece I wrote for Hagerty last month, I detailed the major differences between the systems. In addition to the system's appearances, the main things you need to know are these: --The Behr system uses an evaporator assembly that contains the evaporator core, blower motor, and an old-school externally-equalized expansion valve. In order to replace any of these components, the evaporator assembly must be removed from under the dashboard and opened up. It came with a large, heavy upright York compressor that looks like a lawnmower engine and has a giant bracket to support it that actually wraps around the water pump and is secured by two of the pump's bolts into the block, requiring the compressor and bracket to be disconnected to replace the water pump, at which point many owners left it off the car. Behr 2002 console and faceplate Behr 2002 evaporator assembly Behr 2002 evaporator core and old school externally regulated expansion valve --The Frigiking system, like the Behr system, uses an externally-equalized expansion valve, but it is located OUTSIDE the evap assembly, so, at least in theory, it can be replaced without removing and opening up the box (well, maybe the latter). I believe the Frigiking system used the same upright York compressor and boat anchor of a bracket as the Behr. (pics courtesy Chris Roberts) Frigiking faceplate Frigiking evaporator assembly with externally-mounted externally-regulated expansion valve --The Clardy system is different in several ways. In terms of the expansion valve, it's is the only one of the three that uses a modern block-style internally-regulated expansion valve. Like the Frigiking, the expansion valve is mounted outside the evaporator assembly, meaning it can be replaced without needing to open the assembly. Further, it's the only system where the blower fan is outside the plastic assembly. The way it does this is a little strange; the fan hangs into the passenger-side footwell. It's also the only system that, when new, came with a modern rotary-style Sanden 508 compressor and a compact bracket to mount it to the engine block. (pics courtesy Earle Meyers) Clardy console and faceplate showing bulge on passenger side for fan CapClardy evaporator assembly with fan on right sidetion Clardy evaporator assembly showing externally-mounted internally-regulated expansion valve on left side Back to Louie. As many of you know, I bought Louie, the decade-dead '72 2002tii, sight-unseen in the winter of 2017. I then went down to Louisville KY in a rented SUV loaded with tools and parts, spent nearly a week with Jake and Liz Metz who I'd met once for 15 minutes at The Vintage, resurrected Louie in Jake's pole barn, road-tripped the car home, and wrote the book Ran When Parked about the experience. A few months later, while I was prepping Louie to run down to The Vintage, I helped my friend Jose Rosario sort out the a/c in his car. While I generally don't work on other people's cars, Jose's car has a Clardy a/c system in it, I never had seen one in the flesh, and I was curious about it. I fixed a few issues, shot one can of R134a into it (it had already been converted from R12), and was VERY impressed with how cold it got and how much air it moved. I resolved that if I ever found a Clardy system, or at least the evaporator assembly and console, I'd buy it. But they're far less common than the Behr or Frigiking systems. I then drove Louie down to The Vintage in Asheville. While I was where, I stumbled into a fellow selling a full Clardy system he'd removed from his car. We talked, haggled, and for $250, it all was mine. I loaded it into Louie's back seat and drove it home with me. (I was just cleaning up after the installation, and found this taped to one of the boxes. I think it'll live in Louie's glove compartment forever :^) The note on the box that kicked the whole thing into motion four years ago. I later saw that the fellow I bought it from had it advertised here on the FAQ: I can't cover absolutely every detail I go into in my a/c book, but one of the things I say is that, whether you're doing a from-scratch install or a resurrection of a long-dead system, you'll use re-use the evaporator assembly and console but, if you're smart, you'll throw the rest away. This is because you'll update the compressor to a newer rotary-style unit, replace the obsolete serpentine-flow condenser and small fan with the biggest parallel-flow condenser and fan you can fit in the nose (especially important when converting from R12 to R134a), will replace every hose with custom hoses because a) the original hoses will be ancient dirty leaky garbage and b) they won't fit your new components anyway, and replace the receiver-drier because you have to every time the system is opened up for any length of time. HOWEVER, if you have the opportunity to buy a full-up system at a good price, it's generally worth doing so because there may be pieces you need you're not aware of. On the E9 retrofit, this turned out to be the rare and fragile "intermediate piece" that couples the output of the evaporator assembly to the car's vents, and the two hard pipes that pass through the firewall and behind the glovebox (no room back there for hoses). In the Clardy system, the piece you don't know you need is the bracket that mounts the a/c console faceplate to the dash and holds the ashtray from the original console. It wasn't until four years later, when I opened up the boxes that contained the Clardy system, I saw the bracket, wondered what it was, and had no idea how lucky I was to have it. I'll get back to this in a later installment. The other thing about a/c in Louie is that, since it's a tii, you need the uber-rare tii-specific crankshaft pulley with the cogged gear to run the injection belt AND the pulley for the a/c compressor. I believe that all regular 2002s except the earliest cars already have the otherwise-unused compressor pulley, but not tiis. At some point, it may have even been before I bought Louie, I saw a tii a/c crankshaft pulley on eBay. At $250, it wasn't cheap, but they only show up rarely, so I clicked and bought. The hallowed tii-specific a/c front hub Fast-forward to about a month ago. 90-degree temperatures moved into Boston. Having a 2002 (Bertha), a Bavaria, a 3.0CSi, and other more modern BMWs with a/c, what happens in hot weather is that the non-a/c cars just sit until fall. I had an epiphany: Why did I buy this full-up Clardy system and the tii a/c pulley if I'm not going to install them in the tii that I own that doesn't have a/c in it? And so, operation Chillin' Louie was go. In these installments, I'll detail the choices I made and why, all pursuant to the goal of getting the car cold while attempting to satisfy the goals of a) doing so in a cost-effective fashion, and b) coming out of it with a system that, both inside the car and under the hood, doesn't look totally out of place in a survivor car like Louie. --Rob (My a/c book Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning can be purchased here on Amazon, or personally-inscribed copies of it and my other books can be purchased directly from me here.) View full article
  15. First off I would like to give Boyd Moterwerks the largest shout out ever. Excellent shop, knows 2002's really well. Have been instrumental in the recovery from one of the worlds worst restorations ever. Part of the revamp included an AC overhaul. Even after Boyd's excellent handiwork, the console still doesn't sit perfectly straight but not a critical issue. But more of my concern is the residual bodged plumbing and wiring work of the prior charlatans. Eric at Boyd's had to do some real detective work to figure out and fix what they did wrong and it works, but still blows a bit warmer than the old R12 unit. I will try and summarize without turning this into a novel. One issue: IE Radiator is too big. Mechanical fan removed and the Bodge boys decided that the small fan I purchased for the AC condenser would do the work of both.......?. So it is hooked to a thermostat. they also could not figure out the wiring for the Behr switch that turns off the heater when the AC is turned on. It also was working perfectly when I dropped the car off. But now that part is impossible to find. So the "Fix" was to add a stupid toggle switch that looks like it belongs in a a B17 bomber to turn on the condenser fan if I needed it for cooling things down (car and ac?) and trashed the original console. But now driving it for a bit, it seems like the switch may turn on the condenser fan and the Sanden clone AC compressor... I get a drop in idle when I hit that switch like the compressor has kicked in. So bottom line: I need someone that knows the Behr AC setup well enough to make this right. (if possible) Any referral would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  16. For those of you looking for alternatives to Behr and Frigiking evaporators (and especially if you want a keep the stock center console), I present this as an option. I don't know if I'm the first person to install this, but it certainly hasn't been documented on the FAQ yet. Here's what it looks like installed in my car. Now onto the details. Here's the evaporator/blower unit I used. It's small and has pretty good air output. I haven't actually compared its cooling abilities to a Behr or Frigiking unit, but it makes Atlanta summers much more bearable. The installation is fairly straightforward. My car came to me with a non-working Frigiking unit, so it had holes in the firewall behind the center console. If I were starting from scratch, I would have moved the holes over to the passenger side a bit, but it still works just fine as is. Here are the basic steps to install this: 1) Remove glovebox. You won't need the glovebox tray or latch, but you will need to keep the padded front cover plate. 2) Lift up the dash to expose the sheet metal frame below. The top of the A/C unit has two threaded rods that are used for mounting. Position the unit where you want it and then mark the two hole locations on the underside of the sheetmetal. My recommendation is to position it as close to the firewall as possible so that you leave enough clearance for the cover plate to be reinstalled. 3) Drill the two holes. I have a two piece dash, and the holes ended up just behind where the bottom piece ends. 4) Put foam rubber strips on the top of the A/C unit to prevent any rattling. Because it's mounted directly to the sheet metal, leaving it un-cushioned would probably lead to lots of rattles and buzzing. 5) Two mounting points aren't sufficient to hold it securely, so I bent some aluminum bar stock and drilled holes in the end. I then attached one end to the back of the A/C unit and the other end to the sheet metal. 6) Next you'll need to drill a hole in the firewall for the drain tube. In my opinion, the single small drain tube can't keep up with the amount of condensation this produces - after extended use, I can hear water sloshing around in there. It's a problem when the unit is mounted flat (parallel to the road). To help it drain more easily, the unit needs to be tilted a few degrees so that the drain hole is at the lowest point. I did this by bending the aluminum bar stock at the back. 7) At this point, you can hook up the A/C lines and wire it up. If I were to do it again, after I got the unit dry fit, I would remove it to put on the lines. They're hard to access once this thing is in place. A note on the fan switch: My car had a manual choke that was useless after I changed carbs, so I used that hole next to the steering wheel to mount the switch. Looks stock. 8) After you've tested everything, you can reinstall the dash. 9) The final step is to modify the padded cover panel you removed from the glovebox. The construction of that part is interesting. There's a sheet metal internal frame surrounded by foam, then skinned with vinyl. I had to cut both the foam and the metal frame (from the inside) to get it to fit over the A/C unit. This step took a lot of time and test fitting, but once done, it looks mostly stock. I bent some steel brackets and attached some magnets to them, then screwed those into the metal frame. I couldn't get a good photo, but the brackets slide into the sheet metal frame under the dash. To install the cover plate, you kind of lift it up into position, then pull toward the rear of the car. It wedges into place nicely, and is very secure. That's pretty much it! I'll add some more photos of the completed install so you get a better idea of how the parts fit with the defrost hose and center console. To direct air to the driver side, I added some flexible hose and angled them. Not a good long term solution, but it works for now. I would love to create some sort of angled flap system in the three outlets. Hope this helps inspire others to come up with their own solutions! I'm happy to answer any questions, or take more photos.
  17. Looking for a Behr unit to build the AC system. Already have a rotary compressor, mount and pulley.
  18. Hey, fellow 02ers, my new book, "Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning" just went up for sale on Amazon. The link is here: (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0998950718/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1524587969&sr=1-5). If you want to buy a personally-inscribed copy from me, you can do that at http://www.robsiegel.com/newcarstuff.htm (and, as you'll see on my website, for another $5, I'll throw in my new singer/songwriter CD :^), but I don't yet have inventory of the new books at my house, and probably won't have until the start of May. So, since driving season is already upon us and I've had people asking me when the book will be out, it's out right freaking now on Amazon; due to the wonders of Print On Demand (POD), they can get it to you in like two days. I will also have the book available at The Vintage, and at Oktoberfest where I will be giving an a/c talk (https://ofest.bmwcca.org/events/rob-siegel-air-conditioning-talk/). In writing the book, I tried to strike a balance between providing as much BMW-specific a/c information as possible while not making it entirely a BMW-specific (or 2002-specific) book. We all know that there's no way I could ever write a book that has more 2002-specific a/c info than can be found here on the FAQ, as this remains the brain trust. But, having done the a/c on several 02s, I did try and capture the important 02-specific things in the book. This includes: --Information about why you want to get rid of that boat anchor York compressor and its bracket, and why what you want is a Sanden 508 and the "hobiedave" bracket (though there's certainly more info on the FAQ). --Info about how I had to cut the plastic injection belt cover and rout out the lower timing cover to get the Sanden compressor and Hobiedave bracket to work on my tii (I did a long post on it here on the FAQ as well). --Some info reproduced from the original Behr installation guide, including the firewall hole-drilling template (you can also find this online if you look). --Info about the largest condenser you can fit, both with and without cutting the horn supports (again, there's probably more info about this here on the FAQ if you search for it). --Photos and comparisons of the Behr, Frigiking, and Clardy evaporator assemblies. I'm not aware of any place other than the book where these photos and this discussion exists, and thanks so much to FAQers Chris Roberts, Earl Meyers, and Clyde Gates for these pics (and Gary York, Adam Merchant, Steve Jones, and Layne Wylie for others). --I refer to the existence of the ICE AC and Dtech systems without taking a side on them. My personal opinion, which I explain in the book, is that in a car whose value is appreciating, most owners will be well-served by using an original evaporator assembly, updating the compressor to a compact rotary style unit, upgrading the condenser to the largest parallel-flow unit that'll fit in the nose, putting a fan large enough to suck a duck off the sidewalk on it, and making new hoses. That recipe is really underlying mantra of the book. I also include several sections on case studies in rejuvenation and full-on retrofit in which I cover what I did in my '72tii, 3.0CSi, Bavaria, Euro 635CSi, and other cars. But in addition to the 2002 and BMW-specific content, the real value of the book is that it is the only book out there specific to the a/c needs of a vintage car. It tells you everything, soup to nuts, you need to know to resurrect the a/c in a long-dead car. That includes chapters on theory, tools, refrigerants, oils, legality, fittings, the recipe for R134a conversion and why from a practical standpoint it's little different from resurrection, compressors, evaporator assemblies, expansion valves versus orifice tubes, receiver/driers versus accumulators, condensers, auxiliary fans, making hoses, flushing, pressure-testing with nitrogen, leak detection, evacuation, recharging, troubleshooting... everything. Thanks. End of commercial. Stay cool. Yours in totally not being an R75/2 guy... --Rob (PS If you like the book, please consider posting a review on Amazon. Thanks!)
  19. Complete Console as shown - Please contact by colletti.charles@yahoo.com or text 858-208-8449 $300 plus actual shipping cost
  20. Howdy all - Sputter's AC runs plenty cold, but can only really do COOOOLD and OFF, since the rheostat on the left is purely ornamental at this point. The guys at Pelican Parts told me that some folks had luck using a 320i rheostat, though it requires some experimentation on the wiring. Three questions: Have you done this? Does it work well? Do you remember how you wired it? Current setup: Behr on the inside Sandin on the outside TIA
  21. Off our 2002 topic a bit, but very interested in knowing what my fellow FAQers think about this. I have just acquired an e12 528i, and am starting in on the defunct a/c. The blowers on these cars were notoriously weak, and I’m searching for an upgrade. Info on these cars is a lot harder to find than on our 02s, and I’m casting my net for knowledgeable folk I could interact with. If any of you is knowledgeable about e12s or can send me in the direction of an e12 guru, I’d appreciate it.
  22. Pick and choose what you want! This dealer-installed Behr AC system was removed (in stages) from my 1976 2002; the previous owner started to gather some of the mechanical bits and pieces to restore its full function, but since it'll be a cool-to-fair weather car for me - and because I need every bit of legroom I can muster - I've finally decided to remove the interior components and would love to find a new home (and enterprising new owner) for the whole system. I would consider this the "Semi-Handmade" modified IKEA flat-pack version of an AC system: the big pieces are there, but "some assembly required." Let's get right to the contents: Interior Components Center Console Faceplate Temperature Switch with fan speed interconnect and thermocouple Fan Speed Switch Ashtray Cutouts for: hazard switch, aux/dummy switch, and single-DIN radio head unit Evaporator + Blower Unit Supply and return tubing pigtails and fittings (original), insulated Working blower! (see video at link below) Complete directional vents with four-way adjustable louvers (no issues) Control pigtails and connectors for fan speed and compressor clutch Rubber drain tube Mounting brackets Console Sides All intact, no large gouges or tears Right side footwell air delivery hole is missing its louvered insert Mechanical (Under-hood) Components AC Crank Pulley Compressor drive belt tensioner pulley Original condenser fan Wiring pigtail is in two pieces, but all of the pertinent connectors are there I am happy to include an electric fan that was previously pulled from my nose panel (used for radiator cooling duty) Original condenser (not sure how leak-tight this is) New 10" x 18" condenser (never used) Miscellaneous refrigerant lines - most of the flexible hoses are severed, but the fittings will likely be of use Compressor Notes I have the original York(?) compressor and mounting bracket; however, I'm pretty sure this is just a boat anchor at this point, and I am confident that anyone who purchases this system would want to upgrade to a modern Sanden compressor anyway. Buyer's choice if they wish it to be included This kit also includes a Sanden retrofit engine-mount bracket. There are loads of how-to guides in the FAQs (and even a book by Rob Siegel!) on retrofitting an AC system to vehicles that were not so equipped from the factory, may with helpful links to (and screenshots of) components you'd need to complete your system. This kit provides an excellent starting point. Have a look through the photos shared here: 1976 BMW 2002 Behr AC System - Google Photos PHOTOS.APP.GOO.GL 21 new items added to shared album $550 for everything, or pick and choose kit contents. Depending on the location, shipping may be somewhat prohibitive - I am available to meet up in NEPA/SEPA and south-central PA, and Tri-State/Hudson Valley areas, as well as along the I-76/276 (PA Turnpike), I-78 (PA/NJ), I-81 (PA), I-95 (NJ) corridors. Shipping throughout CONUS at buyer's expense.
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