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Found 34 results

  1. It looks like there is some issue with my blower switch on my Behr AC. My AC is going through a complete overhaul with parallel condenser, sanden compressor, hobie dave bracket etc. Apparently my blower switch has croaked. I have posted on WTB looking for a replacement. Beginning to think I may be up the creek. So, without having to scrap my overhaul which included a heater box refurb etc. What the hell do I do If I cannot find that goofball 4 terminal switch? Would it be possible for one of you electrically inclined individuals to create a new one? (via some electrical supply company) It would be a help for all the other Behr owners to at least have a viable option if theirs gives out. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! Vic
  2. Having recently completed my air conditioning system, i thought i would layout what it takes to install your own modern air conditioning system. Air conditioning is one of those mysterious things that everyone is afraid of when in actuality its not much more complicated that the coolant system on an M10. There is a liquid that gets pumped around a sealed system and as it expands it cools and then we compress it again through the compressor, lower its temperature though the condenser and then repeat the process. A basic air conditioning system is made up of the following components. Evaporator (The unit that mounts in the vehicle and has your AC controls and vents) Compressor and mounting bracket Condenser (The radiator that mounts at the front of the car in the engine bay) Electric push fan Hoses and dryer I will discuss what you need to know about each component: EVAPORATOR This is going to be the toughest component to track down because you cannot buy a new unit. 2002 did not come with air conditioning from factory and so you have to track down an aftermarket unit from the 70's that was installed into the cars by the dealer. You need to source a used Clady, Behr or Fridgeking evaporator / center console though the for sale forums. Any unit you get should be pressure tested and the expansion valve replaced. This is my Behr system. The systems all look different and different people prefer the looks of different systems. The evaporator produces a large amount of water when it operates and the evaporators have a water drain hole in the bottom. You will need to drill a hole through the top of the transmission tunnel to install a rubber drain hose so that the water doesn't flood your interior. The switches for the evaporator should be cleaned, checked for electrical function. Remember old evaporators use flare fittings. Modern hose kits are O ring kits. You will need flare to O ring adapters that are used with flare fittings in order to convert the flare fittings to O ring fittings. #6 and #10 flare adapters. https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/6-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html https://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/10-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html You can also buy copper crush washers which go into the flare adapters to help with the seal if your flare ends aren't in pristine condition. COMPRESSOR AND BRACKET We will keep this simple. The old system compressors are much larger and heavier than modern rotary style compressors. Dont even bother with an old compressor. Buy a modern Sanden 508 compressor. You can buy genuine Sanden for $250 or a chinese knockoff for $130-$150. You will need a V belt model and these can be gotten from Ebay or http://nostalgicac.com/. Very important. The Compressors must be filed with oil. There are different types of oil and some oils are compatible with old style freon (R12) and some are compatible with new style freon (R134a). Since R12 can no longer be obtained you might as well plan on using R134a freon which mean Pag or Ester oil. Compressor uses 6oz of oil after you fully drain all the shipping oil from the unit. The bracket is easy. The Clardy system came with a bracket that fits the Sanden 508 compressor but also luckily a 2002faq member is now making an excellent bracket which can be bought from hobiedave. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/82340-custom-made-ac-compressor-brackets-sold-out/?hl=hobiedave CONDENSER The condenser is simply a matter of size. The bigger the better but you need to factor in how big can you fit into the nose of the 2002 and whether or not you are willing to cut the support bars to fit a larger condenser. A 9" x 12" condenser fits perfectly with no cutting however that is definitely considered on the small size. They make 10" x 18" condensers which might just fit without cutting but i have not tested this. You will need to decide how big you want to go here. You will need to mount this to the front of the nose, there are condenser mounting straps or you can zip tie it in depending on how much drilling and modifying you want to do. FAN You will need an electric fan on a relay kit to blow air through the condenser. The fan should be sized appropriately to fit into the nose of the 2002. I used a 10 inch fan which in my opinion fit perfectly. Don't forget to power the fan directly from the battery with a relay kit since it draws a lot of amps. HOSES AND DRYER People get scared by the plumbing of the AC system, but its actually very simple. There are standard AC hose sizes and certain sizes go between certain components. You will use #10, #8 and #6 size hose in your install. The #10 runs from the evaporator to the compressor. The #8 runs from the compressor to the Condenser. The #6 runs from the condenser to the dryer and then back to the evaporator. Ebay and http://nostalgicac.com/ sell "Hose Kits" which include the hoses, connections, safety switch and the dryer. Buy a universal kit and it should have everything you need! The safety switch measures freon pressure levels and cutoff the system if levels get too high or too low. It gets wired in series with the AC controls and compressor. To make your own AC lines you will need a crimper tool. I used this one and it worked great. I also used a substance called Nyloc with all my o ring fittings. Its a type of AC sealant and you coat the O rings in it before tightening and it helps to minimize any leaks. This stuff is option but recommended. Once everything is installed you will need to have the system charged with freon by a professional AC shop. But if everything goes to plan you will have good cold AC for under $1000. EDIT: If you wish to charge the system your self, you will need a proper 3 line gauge set ($35 on ebay) and a vacuum pump ($50 on ebay) Attach the low and high pressure lines to the AC system, attach vacuum pump to yellow line and start vacuuming. Open low pressure side valve on gauge and allow pressure to drop to -30psi. Vacuum for 30 minutes to remove moisture and air from system. Close low pressure valve and remove pump. Make sure system holds negative pressure for 30 minutes to ensure no leaks. Afterwards attach a can of Freon to yellow line. Start car and turn on AC to max. Open low pressure valve and let Freon into system. Low pressure should jump up to 60 psi but then the compressor should kick on and pressure will drop down to below 20. Note that the compressor pulley always spins but only when the clutch kicks in and the center part of the pulley is spinning is Freon being pumped! System will likely need 2 cans of R134a Freon (Maybe a little more. 3 cans is too much). We want low pressure of about 30-35 psi and high pressure around 250 on a nice day. (Pressures vary by day time temperatures). Remember to close the low pressure valve when switching Freon cans. Also the gauges pressures sometimes take a while to settle so add the 2 cans and then rev the motor up and let the system cycle a bit before deciding if pressures are right or if more is needed. A system with too much Freon will not cool! More is not better!
  3. Hey, fellow 02ers, my new book, "Just Needs a Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning" just went up for sale on Amazon. The link is here: (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0998950718/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1524587969&sr=1-5). If you want to buy a personally-inscribed copy from me, you can do that at http://www.robsiegel.com/newcarstuff.htm (and, as you'll see on my website, for another $5, I'll throw in my new singer/songwriter CD :^), but I don't yet have inventory of the new books at my house, and probably won't have until the start of May. So, since driving season is already upon us and I've had people asking me when the book will be out, it's out right freaking now on Amazon; due to the wonders of Print On Demand (POD), they can get it to you in like two days. I will also have the book available at The Vintage, and at Oktoberfest where I will be giving an a/c talk (https://ofest.bmwcca.org/events/rob-siegel-air-conditioning-talk/). In writing the book, I tried to strike a balance between providing as much BMW-specific a/c information as possible while not making it entirely a BMW-specific (or 2002-specific) book. We all know that there's no way I could ever write a book that has more 2002-specific a/c info than can be found here on the FAQ, as this remains the brain trust. But, having done the a/c on several 02s, I did try and capture the important 02-specific things in the book. This includes: --Information about why you want to get rid of that boat anchor York compressor and its bracket, and why what you want is a Sanden 508 and the "hobiedave" bracket (though there's certainly more info on the FAQ). --Info about how I had to cut the plastic injection belt cover and rout out the lower timing cover to get the Sanden compressor and Hobiedave bracket to work on my tii (I did a long post on it here on the FAQ as well). --Some info reproduced from the original Behr installation guide, including the firewall hole-drilling template (you can also find this online if you look). --Info about the largest condenser you can fit, both with and without cutting the horn supports (again, there's probably more info about this here on the FAQ if you search for it). --Photos and comparisons of the Behr, Frigiking, and Clardy evaporator assemblies. I'm not aware of any place other than the book where these photos and this discussion exists, and thanks so much to FAQers Chris Roberts, Earl Meyers, and Clyde Gates for these pics (and Gary York, Adam Merchant, Steve Jones, and Layne Wylie for others). --I refer to the existence of the ICE AC and Dtech systems without taking a side on them. My personal opinion, which I explain in the book, is that in a car whose value is appreciating, most owners will be well-served by using an original evaporator assembly, updating the compressor to a compact rotary style unit, upgrading the condenser to the largest parallel-flow unit that'll fit in the nose, putting a fan large enough to suck a duck off the sidewalk on it, and making new hoses. That recipe is really underlying mantra of the book. I also include several sections on case studies in rejuvenation and full-on retrofit in which I cover what I did in my '72tii, 3.0CSi, Bavaria, Euro 635CSi, and other cars. But in addition to the 2002 and BMW-specific content, the real value of the book is that it is the only book out there specific to the a/c needs of a vintage car. It tells you everything, soup to nuts, you need to know to resurrect the a/c in a long-dead car. That includes chapters on theory, tools, refrigerants, oils, legality, fittings, the recipe for R134a conversion and why from a practical standpoint it's little different from resurrection, compressors, evaporator assemblies, expansion valves versus orifice tubes, receiver/driers versus accumulators, condensers, auxiliary fans, making hoses, flushing, pressure-testing with nitrogen, leak detection, evacuation, recharging, troubleshooting... everything. Thanks. End of commercial. Stay cool. Yours in totally not being an R75/2 guy... --Rob (PS If you like the book, please consider posting a review on Amazon. Thanks!)
  4. Complete Clardy 1980 system. "working when pulled" in 2017 due to radiator upgrade vs. compressor mount conflict. Blower assembly with wiring and controls, center fascia with vents and side panels with vents (panels mount to existing stock center panel – my side panels were cut by installer to fit Clardy side pcs. shown in "center fascia" photo below) Compressor with belt, mounting bracket with (most) hardware, Clardy dryer, evaporator, cooling fan, relay for fan. (Hoses included for “reference”. I had to cut one hose off compressor and one off dryer as fittings were seized up initially) I'm attending the Vintage and will delivery everything if I have a committed buyer. Otherwise local pick-up 17603, not shipping danke.
  5. Looking for a Behr unit to build the AC system. Already have a rotary compressor, mount and pulley.
  6. Howdy all - Sputter's AC runs plenty cold, but can only really do COOOOLD and OFF, since the rheostat on the left is purely ornamental at this point. The guys at Pelican Parts told me that some folks had luck using a 320i rheostat, though it requires some experimentation on the wiring. Three questions: Have you done this? Does it work well? Do you remember how you wired it? Current setup: Behr on the inside Sandin on the outside TIA
  7. For those of you looking for alternatives to Behr and Frigiking evaporators (and especially if you want a keep the stock center console), I present this as an option. I don't know if I'm the first person to install this, but it certainly hasn't been documented on the FAQ yet. Here's what it looks like installed in my car. Now onto the details. Here's the evaporator/blower unit I used. It's small and has pretty good air output. I haven't actually compared its cooling abilities to a Behr or Frigiking unit, but it makes Atlanta summers much more bearable. The installation is fairly straightforward. My car came to me with a non-working Frigiking unit, so it had holes in the firewall behind the center console. If I were starting from scratch, I would have moved the holes over to the passenger side a bit, but it still works just fine as is. Here are the basic steps to install this: 1) Remove glovebox. You won't need the glovebox tray or latch, but you will need to keep the padded front cover plate. 2) Lift up the dash to expose the sheet metal frame below. The top of the A/C unit has two threaded rods that are used for mounting. Position the unit where you want it and then mark the two hole locations on the underside of the sheetmetal. My recommendation is to position it as close to the firewall as possible so that you leave enough clearance for the cover plate to be reinstalled. 3) Drill the two holes. I have a two piece dash, and the holes ended up just behind where the bottom piece ends. 4) Put foam rubber strips on the top of the A/C unit to prevent any rattling. Because it's mounted directly to the sheet metal, leaving it un-cushioned would probably lead to lots of rattles and buzzing. 5) Two mounting points aren't sufficient to hold it securely, so I bent some aluminum bar stock and drilled holes in the end. I then attached one end to the back of the A/C unit and the other end to the sheet metal. 6) Next you'll need to drill a hole in the firewall for the drain tube. In my opinion, the single small drain tube can't keep up with the amount of condensation this produces - after extended use, I can hear water sloshing around in there. It's a problem when the unit is mounted flat (parallel to the road). To help it drain more easily, the unit needs to be tilted a few degrees so that the drain hole is at the lowest point. I did this by bending the aluminum bar stock at the back. 7) At this point, you can hook up the A/C lines and wire it up. If I were to do it again, after I got the unit dry fit, I would remove it to put on the lines. They're hard to access once this thing is in place. A note on the fan switch: My car had a manual choke that was useless after I changed carbs, so I used that hole next to the steering wheel to mount the switch. Looks stock. 8) After you've tested everything, you can reinstall the dash. 9) The final step is to modify the padded cover panel you removed from the glovebox. The construction of that part is interesting. There's a sheet metal internal frame surrounded by foam, then skinned with vinyl. I had to cut both the foam and the metal frame (from the inside) to get it to fit over the A/C unit. This step took a lot of time and test fitting, but once done, it looks mostly stock. I bent some steel brackets and attached some magnets to them, then screwed those into the metal frame. I couldn't get a good photo, but the brackets slide into the sheet metal frame under the dash. To install the cover plate, you kind of lift it up into position, then pull toward the rear of the car. It wedges into place nicely, and is very secure. That's pretty much it! I'll add some more photos of the completed install so you get a better idea of how the parts fit with the defrost hose and center console. To direct air to the driver side, I added some flexible hose and angled them. Not a good long term solution, but it works for now. I would love to create some sort of angled flap system in the three outlets. Hope this helps inspire others to come up with their own solutions! I'm happy to answer any questions, or take more photos.
  8. Location: : Bozeman MT SOLD - PM me about any parts in the photo you're interested in. (Sorry the block and crankshaft just sold) I can send close-up photos if you want to see more detail. The Victor Reinz gasket is still new in package. I recall some of the parts are A/C specific and hard to find, but I couldn't find diagrams on RealOem to identify them. If you're in need them, you'll know better than I do. The 3 pistons are piano tops. Not sure of their condition, but they look good to my naked eye.
  9. I'm sure this has been done before, but I wanted to see if anyone has any photos or advice. I'd like to add air conditioning to my '75 to deal with these Atlanta summers, but all of the aftermarket center consoles look, well, aftermarket. I want to keep the stock look, so that would mean hiding the evaporator in the engine bay and routing some vent tubing to direct the air into the cabin somewhere. Is there a reason I shouldn't do this? Does the engine bay get too hot? Maybe the glovebox is a better option? Those with experience please chime in, I'm new to the A/C game.
  10. I suppose it only makes sense: as '02 prices appear to skyrocket, so do parts prices. Less than a year ago, an Aussie fellow re-listed an NOS Behr A/C faceplate on U.S. eBay 4 or 5 times. He received not a single bid at his $200 opening price, shipping included (he also offered a $400 Buy It Now, which seemed laughable since no one would offer $200). He eventually withdrew the faceplate. Now we have a used example of the same faceplate for $372 plus shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261820625782?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It's time to re-think that restoration budget! Regards, Steve
  11. Does anyone know if European Cooler Air is still in business? They are (or were) located in Rockwall, TX, and made air conditioning kits for our 2002s. The console looked like a cross between a Behr and Frigiking, and was designed to work either with R12 or R134 refrigerant. Or does anyone know of another company who is currently making an A/C kit for 2002s? TIA mike
  12. Does anyone know if European Cooler Air is still in business? They are (or were) located in Rockwall, TX, and made air conditioning kits for our 2002s as well as other older imports. The '02 console looked like a cross between a Behr and Frigiking, and the unit was designed to work either with R12 or R134 refrigerant. Or does anyone know of another company who is currently making an A/C kit for 2002s? TIA mike
  13. Complete Console as shown - Please contact by colletti.charles@yahoo.com or text 858-208-8449 $300 plus actual shipping cost
  14. Relative NOOB with 2002's so forgive me, but I thought I'd post my day long adventure trying to install the excellent new Wallot & Nesch high capacity radiator in place of a 1997 BEHR 320i radiator with "crimped" lower hose. It turns out you need a 320i radiator with the lower radiator port facing passenger side (vs. normal rear exit on 2002 radiator) because it needs to clear the air conditioning compressor pulley. I got my 02 several months ago from a local CCA member after patiently waiting 5+ years for him to sell it. I noticed the lower radiator hose exited to the pass. side and was crimped nearly in half. I decided to replace it with the W&N radiator along with new HEPU water pump. Due to the 2002 lower radiator port exiting to rear, I had to drop the A/C compressor down as low as it would go and remove the A/C drive belt as the lower hose was still touching the pulley with new radiator installed. (not sure if any custom brackets will help with clearance) Not too concerned about lack of A/C living in SE Pennsylvania (and Vintage is in May vs. August) so I'll see how the comfort level is in one year. That's what the quarter lite windows are for..... Removed a "Worldpac" brand water pump which had been seeping at the mechanical seal intermittently. Not sure who installed that or what part of the world it came from. Had a slight bit of side play in the bearing shaft so glad I replaced it too. Looks like the IE aluminum radiator might have worked with the lower port pointing upwards but "out of stock". First pic is looking up from below at A/C pully brushing against lower radiator hose. 2nd is 320i Behr radiator with crimped lower hose. 3rd is final install shot.
  15. I have just received a new batch of A/C brackets (hobiedave brackets). If you have not contacted me in the past please do so now before I run out. The bracket fits the M10 engine to add a rotary compressor bracket for air conditioning. The bracket cost $107.50 that includes shipping to the lower 48. I can ship to other countries and I have done so in the past. thanks for your interest. please contact me at dave.hobiedave at gmail.com thanks Dave
  16. Hello, I am in the process of restoring my car, and would like to resurrect its Behr AC unit. I have the head unit (needs rebuilding), but the PO dumped the rest of the components. Specifically, I'm looking for hoses, condenser, Senden compressor, and dryer. PM me the part(s) you have and your asking price to include shipping to Maryland 20769. Thanks! Marc
  17. I installed a Clardy air conditioning unit in my '76 when the car was new and it's actually worked great ever since -- for '02 air conditioning, which is, to say, well below the air conditioning standards of Detroit in '76. But among the unit's "design quirks," the right console panel is partially secured by a 1 1/8" screw through the panel and directly into the A/C's blower, which intrudes noticeably into the passenger foot well. Over the last 39 years, I'm confident I've removed and replaced that panel 25 times -- to futz with the radio, look for the dropped tii clock thumbscrews, etc. And I always wondered why I never "stabbed" the blower fan with that 1 1/8" screw through its heart. Mind you, the factory instructions told me to put this screw exactly there and I never considered using a different fastener or a different location. Two months ago, however, while planning the installation of a Becker Grand Prix Stereo in the car -- its first radio was a Europa II Stereo -- I managed to "stab" the blower wheel with that 1 1/8" screw! I didn't realize it until I turned on the A/C and the blower wheel made a frightening "this is my last revolution" noise, followed by utter silence. And that...mishap, led me to discover that both the original blower housing and blower wheel remain in production by the original manufacturer, American Plasti-Plate of Tyler, Texas. The housing is their part number BH 4500 and the wheel is their part number BW 45-325. American Plasti-Plate doesn't sell retail, but Arizona Mobile Air Inc. (ACKits.com) handles American Plasti-Plate parts. Arizona Mobile Air refers to the housing as part number 28-91496 (Blower Housing w/Flange BH 4500), $17.36 currently, and the wheel as part number 28-01716 (Blower Wheel ABS with Clip), $12.76 currently. The housing is back ordered for 4 months but the wheel is in stock. I'm looking for a more-or-less exact replacement for the electric blower motor but I haven't yet identified the best candidate! Regards, Steve
  18. I'm looking for some advice on whether I should try to rebuild a frigiking A/C unit or install a newer underdash aftermarket unit in my 76 2002. The frigiking unit looks pretty beat up. It was not working when I got the car a year ago so I pulled it out of the car. It is also missing some knobs and has some cracks. I'm not concerned about having a period correct A/C unit. I would like to have an A/C unit that works since I live in the desert and I'm wondering if anyone has experience using something newer and smaller than the frigiking. I also am wondering about the installation and if it would be easier to rebuild the frigiking since it was already in the car or go with a newer underdash unit and how difficult that would be to install all the components that go along with the actual A/C unit. Thanks, Roberto
  19. A fantastic way to modernize your BMW 2002 and get rid of problematic old heater box and revamped AC evaporators. Specially engineered to fit precisely in OEM space and for center console to remain stock in size or smaller ! We have installed in several cars works famously including ability to run vents to sides of dash for better air flow. A BIG upgrade for your BMW 2002. Installation requires no special skills but do need to have basic AC skills to charge unit with freon. http://www.dtechparts.com/bmw-2002-heat-and-ac-evaporator-new-redesigned-as-modern-car/ Installed is less weight then original heater box and AC, works with existing heat / ac setup under hood or we also provide complete kit to modernize under hood AC components as well. This kit will modernize your existing AC evaporator (Fridgking, Behr, Clarty, or aftermarket) http://www.dtechparts.com/bmw-2002-complete-a-c-kit/ We can offer consoles designed and covered in your choice of leather, vinyl, stitch etc. for slight up-charge. Based unit comes with console sides covered in black vinyl. Can use an OEM Behr front face plate for true original look or we can provide center piece you can use to cut in your choice of radio, flasher button, controls. We suggest using a double DIN low profile stereo / monitor like pictured We can also do install for you we are in Dallas TX. We will provide phone support to assist you remotely as best we can. Pictured here with optional backup camera
  20. Price:: 15 Location: : Mobile, AL As shown in pics. Serviceable condition, some exterior vinyl cracking around screw holes as shown. Shipping not included. Not for sale to BLUNT. Cheers,
  21. I need to wrap the air conditioning hoses (a/c) that run from the compressor to the firewall to protect them from the heat of the exhaust manifold. Can anyone suggest an appropriate material & the source for that material? (Yes, I searched first. ) Thanks! Bob
  22. Not as ugly as this one, please.... They're about 6" x 2" May entertain console parts also! Rear view: Cheers,
  23. The decals are finally ready and I would like to post the installation guide(s) for all three (3) options: 1) BEHR A/C (stencil) 2) Shift pattern (decal) 3) Instrument lettering (stencil) For purchasing info, please visit the classifieds section: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/174999-behr-ac-dash-lettering-shift-patterns/ The steps are straightforward & I hope this will serve as the definitive reference thread for all who have expressed interest. Best wishes, Mo Faraz
  24. I have created a new series of decals/stencils for interested owners. You may reference the installation guide here: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/175000-decalsstencils-installation-guide/ Each stencil costs $16/shipped worldwide. Each 4 speed (special) shift pattern decal costs $10/shipped worldwide. The price for any second set of decal or stencil is an additional $10. My Paypal is mofaraz [at] uw [dot] edu Please include your preferred shipping address & the type of decal/stencil you would like to purchase. You will receive from me: 1) Payment confirmation 2) Shipping confirmation with USPS tracking # Please pm me or post a reply if you have any questions & I will get back to you. Thanks for looking, Mo Faraz Instruments stencil kit: $20/shipped A/C Stencil kit: $20/shipped Special shift pattern decal: $18/shipped
  25. $60 + actual shipping - Alternator (for a early 70's Bravera, 3.0 CS or early M6) Just rebuilt 6 months ago and it works just fine. It is the wrong one for my 2002 tii and it doesn't have internal rubber mounts that the tii's have/need. It is in great shape. TAKEN - Clardy A/C Blower unit. What you see is what you get, no metal dash bracket, no compressor. When I pulled this out of my car the blower fan worked great. I can try and answer any questions you have Also I am open to trades too Let me know what you have. Thanks for looking Nick


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