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Ray_73Turkis_OH

Solex
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Everything posted by Ray_73Turkis_OH

  1. Thanks folks, I wasn't seeing any in stock at the places I had looked. Yes Mike, I know the fender is separate. I have replaced my front fenders years ago and also the back section of the right side rocker panel. Unfortunately I think I got rid of the rest of the rocker panel when I cleaned out the shed years ago 😞 I will do one more search for it. Yeah, if someone has the front half of the rocker that would be great. Thanks, Ray
  2. Test drive results. I have been out several times with this thick padded leather wheel and really love it!
  3. HI, I posted in parts wanted a while ago but haven't had any responses. I need a right side rocker panel, or at least the front foot or so of a right side rocker panel. Shooting myself because I got rid of this piece a few years ago 😞 Any help or suggestions appreciated. Thanks,
  4. I need just the front section of the right side rocker panel. Thanks,
  5. My 12 yr old 185/70 13 Kumho Solus have plenty of tread and look good. Should probably replace, but now i have a set of 14” basket weaves with Falken Azenis RT-615K+ For summer fun i am not going to bother as i only put the Khumos on for a few winter months. With the old Khumos Its fun to spin the tires taking off in first. And chirping in 2nd. The Falkens just stick and go!
  6. Are you a proud owner of a classic BMW 2002? Join me on a thrilling journey of steering wheel transformation inspired by the captivating manufacturing video on azaautowheel.com. Discover how to infuse your stock wheel with a fatter leather rim, elevating aesthetics and driving pleasure. I have had many different steering wheels on my 1973 2002 over the years. The manufacturing video gave me the idea of how to put a fatter leather rim on my stock wheel. Materials BELINOUS makes very nice Leather Steering Wheel Covers in many different sizes and colors. I ordered Size XL6 in Black. To make the wheel thicker, I got a roll of neoprene sponge rubber foam Sheets with Adhesive Backing, 12" x 60" x 1/8". Instructions I was very lucky that this all worked out perfectly. I got three layers of foam wrap from the roll of foam. I cut three strips of foam from the roll. The first layer was a strip 2 5/8” wide, the second layer strip was 3.5”, and the last layer strip was 5.5” wide. The size of the cover stitched up perfectly over the size of the wheel with three layers of foam. If you want it a little thinner, just put on two layers of foam, but then you need to figure out what size of cover to order from Belinous. The glued backing of the rubber worked great. I trimmed the foam on the front of the spokes to the edge of the rim. Then used the trimmed pieces to fill in the back side of the rim behind the spoke. Make sure to center the cover seam in the center of the bottom spoke. It took some effort to stretch the cover onto the wheel. Work the cover around so that the inside edges are where you want them.Keep adjusting as you do the stitching so you get a straight seam. You will see several stitch types in the Belinous instructions and on the web. I used the two-string baseball stitch. Look at the stitching around the spokes front and back for your planning. I like how this approach came out. Can’t wait to go for a test drive when the salt is off the roads. Good luck with your build, Ray Daley
  7. Are you a proud owner of a classic BMW 2002? Join me on a thrilling journey of steering wheel transformation inspired by the captivating manufacturing video on azaautowheel.com. Discover how to infuse your stock wheel with a fatter leather rim, elevating aesthetics and driving pleasure. I have had many different steering wheels on my 1973 2002 over the years. The manufacturing video gave me the idea of how to put a fatter leather rim on my stock wheel. Materials BELINOUS makes very nice Leather Steering Wheel Covers in many different sizes and colors. I ordered Size XL6 in Black. To make the wheel thicker, I got a roll of neoprene sponge rubber foam Sheets with Adhesive Backing, 12" x 60" x 1/8". Instructions I was very lucky that this all worked out perfectly. I got three layers of foam wrap from the roll of foam. I cut three strips of foam from the roll. The first layer was a strip 2 5/8” wide, the second layer strip was 3.5”, and the last layer strip was 5.5” wide. The size of the cover stitched up perfectly over the size of the wheel with three layers of foam. If you want it a little thinner, just put on two layers of foam, but then you need to figure out what size of cover to order from Belinous. The glued backing of the rubber worked great. I trimmed the foam on the front of the spokes to the edge of the rim. Then used the trimmed pieces to fill in the back side of the rim behind the spoke. Make sure to center the cover seam in the center of the bottom spoke. It took some effort to stretch the cover onto the wheel. Work the cover around so that the inside edges are where you want them.Keep adjusting as you do the stitching so you get a straight seam. You will see several stitch types in the Belinous instructions and on the web. I used the two-string baseball stitch. Look at the stitching around the spokes front and back for your planning. I like how this approach came out. Can’t wait to go for a test drive when the salt is off the roads. Good luck with your build, Ray Daley View full article
  8. Beautiful blue cars people. My avus blue 318i is kinda atlantic. Is Turkis blue 🙂 Turquoise covers the largest area of the color triangle of any color. That is, more colors are perceived as Turquoise than any other color, but is Turkis Blue or Green? Hmm.
  9. Not too bad. Its been a long time. the Honda seats and mounts are narrower than the 2002 seats so i got some aluminum bars (~3/16x2” x a couple feet(enough to have 4 of them) and with the stock seat rails on the car i marked where to drill them. Then drilled and bolted rails to the aluminum. Then set the seat on the aluminum to find the left to right position you like (centered with the steering wheel) and then drill and bolt aluminum to the seats. One of the rear seat mounts is not on the same plane so i used a longer bolt and some washers and maybe a nut to make it the same. Then bolted the seat rails to the aluminum bars and the bolted into the car. This left about 2” of the bars visible between the seat and the door that i painted flat black. I am 6’2” and the seat was just right for me. Make sure to get the plastic side covers for the honda seats. it was really pretty easy to do. The aluminum is strong and easy to cut and drill. Make sure to file down any sharp edges. let me know if you try it
  10. Thanks for the responses. I am out of town for so can't make Columbus. But could figure something out in the future as there is no rush. Also, I am going through Albany NY in October. I would like to hear how much you would want for 4 wheels. you can text me at 937-344-9630 Thanks, Ray
  11. Looking for a set of 4 14” e30 wheels. pick up in Dayton/Cinci area preferably. Thanks, Ray Daley
  12. They look really nice. I have worn out and had so many different seats in my car I wouldn't know what year I currently have.
  13. Hi, I don't have any tunnel brackets, but was wondering what you were building? 🙂 Ray
  14. Hi, I am interested in both the heads as we just had one die of corosion. Thanks, Ray Daley 937-344-9630
  15. Nice Stuff. Would you have any cylinder heads. we are in need. Thanks Ray Daley
  16. Hi, we need a new cylinder head. What is best head to use with flat top pistons, 2.0 M10 carb. And, do you have one 🙂 Thanks, Tom and Ray Daley
  17. Hi, I was really into the Turbo prototype because it used a lot of 2002 components and collected these pieces over many years. I bought the Monterey poster at a cool automobile memorabilia shop in Monterey. Here is a link to a Google slides document of the collection. BMW TURBO Collection Sale - Google Slides DOCS.GOOGLE.COM BMW Turbo Prototype Car Collection Sale Includes 11 pieces
  18. My first Upstate NY 1971 2002 had some rust repairs by previous owners, fiberglass front fenders, and flairs only on the rear. General motors brown. This pic is from 1981 in Plattsburgh NY. The Brownie eventually rusted back into Mother Earth.
  19. These are perfect if you need oversize pistons for your original motor. I just paid $1300 for a set of 4 in the next/last oversize so this is a deal if you need them. The machinist for my current rebuild said the cylinder walls looked like they didn't use a torque plate when they bored/honed it the last time. So besides a cracked head, I had 2 out of round cylinders, hence the larger pistons. I also learned about forged and cast pistons and definitely wanted cast for quietness and longevity on my street car. These are cast.
  20. Used for a bit, k&n air filter for a weber 32/36, but went back to stock air filter housing. K&N are lifetime filters that have excellent air flow. Also makes your car louder from the whooosh of air intake 🙂 2 polyurethane sway bar end links. Not used, I prefer factory bushings. plus shipping.
  21. Maybe somebody could use these? I needed to bore and use bigger pistons so could not reuse these in my rebuild. 4 used pistons in very good condition. I believe they are 2nd oversize (89.47). and 8:5 compression (stock) I put these in on my first rebuild. These pistons really like to go up and down! Thanks for looking, Ray
  22. I discovered that I had two different headrests so here is my story on rectifying the disparity. I will start with some history of my seats and headrests. I bought my 1973 2002 2589061 35 years ago from Herman the original owner who didn’t like headrests because he liked to swing his arm over to put stuff in the back seat. The car had its original seats but I had to make a second trip down to McKee KY from Cincinnati to get the original headrests as he couldn’t find them when I picked up the car. Then I got into driver’s schools and put in Recaro like Honda CRX seats that worked and looked really nice. I got these from a yard in Pittsburgh. It was pretty easy to make sturdy aluminum cross bars to mount the 2002 seat rails. Honda CRX seats (example) Young kids kept me away from the track so I went back to street mode, sold the CRX seats and put the original seats back in, but they were really wearing out and suffering metal fatigue from my large mass. I think I got a seat from Dave Mason in Milwaukee during this time. And also got a seat from George Theilen. I mounted one old seat on an office chair pedestal and took it to work. I also put a middle seat belt in the back to hold the child car seat. Oh, the kids are grown so back to the track and another set of Honda CRX seats from a guy’s barn around Columbus. My 2002 seats were pretty beat so I gave them to a guy who said he was going to use them in some chop top parade car??? Oh, but now my mostly stock 2002 is getting lapped so many times a session at Putnam Park I decide to retire it from track time. Those 500hp 5ers and Mustangs are fast. Back to factory seats. I get two front seats and a rear seat from a guy outside of Philadelphia (and sold the CRX seats). These are the seats in my car now. A to Z upholstery in Middletown Ohio used the vinyl from one of my rear seats to rebuild the torn driver’s seat. All is good, then after quite a while I notice I have two different headrests. What? But, hey the seats look identical. Both have black metal hinges. But the headrests are different. One is beveled and one is flat. Why did I give away my old seats with headrests in them? So last month I meet a guy in Springfield to buy a beveled headrest and find it won’t fit in my seat, then I notice the support bars are different diameters and learn about 10mm (flat) headrest and 12mm (beveled) headrest supports (there is a thread on that). Wait, why does the passenger headrest look different from the driver headrest? Time for a therapy session with Mike Self and he suggests I look inside the seat to see if I can drill the 10mm hole bigger for the 12 mm bracket that has the beveled rest. Well, that is not going to work because it has ~4” long pipes that are the perfect diameter for the 10mm support. OK, Plan B. can I swap the beveled rest onto the 10mm support. YES! I can’t imagine anyone else wanting to do this, but here it is. Fortunately the support bars are identical except the diameters. The 10mm support flat headrest has a single silver bar underneath that comes off with a few screws. The headrest vinyl had a simple stitching underneath that was easy to remove. The support bracket bends up and around inside the rest. I was able to separate the glued foam with my fingers and the headrest came off easily. The 12mm support beveled headrest is a little different underneath. The vinyl has a zipper instead of stitches and instead of a full-length chrome cover underneath it has two short black plastic covers on each side. The hard rubber covers on top of each end are identical except interior diameter for the rod. The zipper is easy to move, but it doesn’t go all they way to the end as one end of the rest is sewn around it. So I took the black plastic bottom cover off (2 little screws). And slide the hard rubber top end cover off. Separated the foam inside the rest to release the metal support and then was able to slide the rest off the end of the bracket. Now to put them back together. I slide the beveled rest onto the 10mm frame, zipped it up, slide the black rubber end cover back on, and had to drill two little holes in the support bracket to attached the black plastic bottom cover on each side. Voilà! I now had a matching beveled headrest, unless you notice the 10 vs 12 mm bracket. Flat head rest now on 12mm bracket. Beveled headrest now on 10mm bracket Does anyone need a 12mm bracket with a flat headrest? I put the flat headrest on the 12 mm bracket and didn’t even have to drill any holes to screw the long chrome cover back on. Now I won’t bore you with how many different steering wheels I have had and how many times I have swapped springs. 35 years with a car is a long time. Another 200 miles and my new pistons will be broken in and ready for redline. Wahoo, bring on summer.
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