02Pilot

I wish I had space for it, since I'm just over the border in NY and could easily drive over. I've already got one short block that's been sitting in my garage for about as long as yours, and too much other crap. Given your location, have you reached out to SCR in Plainville to see if they want it?

I've got a couple that I pulled out of running cars years ago. Can't speak to how much they need, except to say that they didn't leak and the cars stayed cool. They've been on the shelf for years. PM me if you're interested - I'll have to dig them out of the shed to get pics. Shipping would be from NY.

Spark, fuel, air, compression. What did the plugs look like when you pulled them? That said, I'd suspect that distributor before anything else.

Sorry I steered you wrong, though I'm surprised they couldn't help. In any case, glad you got it sorted out.

Here's your answer: Driveshaft Specialist of Texas. Have them build you a new unit with replaceable, greaseable U-joints.

White vinegar, especially the strong "cleaning" variety, is your answer here. Get a few gallons and put it and the whole block in a Rubbermaid tub. Wait. Inspect. Wait some more.

Graham at Bimmers Only in Bedford Hills, in Pierre's old shop actually.

Way too much play. Not sure what went wrong with the installation, but get the shop to do it again. And right this time.

I was there. Edit: Found some more photos. These are really old, poor scans - my apologies for the quality. You can see the photographer who took the panoramic shot on the raised platform in one, and a few of you might recognize one of our own long-time FAQ members giving a presentation.

I like most things about the 86/BRZ package, the exceptions being the cheap-looking interior and the engine. I've not owned a Subaru boxer myself, but several friends have, and between the oil leaks, head gasket failures, and being unpleasant to work on, I'll pass. I do understand that the Honda K-swap is a thing in those cars, which would help a lot. On a couple of the other cars mentioned, I'm fortunate to own both an E82 128i and a Miata RF. Both have similarities to the 2002. The Miata platform is very lively, lightweight, and tossable, but of course it's a much smaller cabin, and it lacks the versatility of the 2002. The engine in the Miata is incredibly free-revving and happily winds up to 7500rpm. The 128i feels very much like BMW updating the 2002 for the modern era (well, at least modern as of 2009). It's heavier, but the suspension tuning feels similar to the 2002 (caveat: both my 2002 and 128i have modified suspensions), as does the power delivery; the engine is happy to spin up to the 7000rpm redline, but it does not do so as quickly as the Miata. The 128i has all the practicality of the 2002 and then some, especially with the folding rear seat. Predictably, both cars are faster than all but heavily modified 2002s (6.1sec 0-60 for the 128i, 5.8 for the Miata). Depending on which parts of the 2002 experience one might be looking to replicate, either of these could be worthy options.

Hmmm, come to think of it, I also had a Pertronix module start to crap out similarly (serves me right for trying to use technology unnecessarily - nothing wrong with points). As the saying goes, most fuel problems are ignition problems.

I've had DCOEs ice up on cool, humid days, but if you're getting it from the start, that's not what's happening here (I wasn't clear on when you felt this - from the off, or after driving for a while).

I can vouch for the propensity of the more modern chassis to driveshaft vibration. I spent the last six months chasing vibrations in my E82 128i. After two new driveshafts I've gotten to the point where it's good up to ~75mph, then it starts to become noticeable, and increases with road speed from there. Everything from the flywheel to the axles (inclusive) has been replaced, with the sole exception of the transmission. I may just get under there again and try the hose clamp trick, just to see if it makes a difference.

I was just in Millerton about three hours ago - rode my bike up. Didn't see the 1502, but did catch a yellow Saab Sonnet passing through.

Before you put them on, check to see how they're jetted and what throats are in them. With stock pistons and a mild cam you're going to want relatively small throats to keep the intake charge velocity up, or it will fall on its face when you open the throttle at low RPM.

No sign of coolant in the cylinders? Twisting from a seizing event means it must have locked up hard at high RPM. Maybe a missed shift (went 3-2 instead of 3-4) and overreved? Based on the build as you describe it, I doubt it saw a lot of time at lower engine speeds. Did the crank survive?

Never on an M10, and never happened to one of my engines, but I've seen a few bent rods out of M5x-series engines that hydrolocked. In what axis did the rods in your engine bend/twist?

FYI, Tire Rack has both B6 and B8 strut inserts in stock (shocks are backordered). I ordered and received mine in less than a week.

The original kit is nice if all you care about is originality, but if you actually want to have a better chance of fixing things on the road you'll want a larger tool kit. The factory tools are in there, if slightly obscured. In addition to what's more or less visible, there's a 3/8" ratchet and socket set in there as well.

Just throw the tools in an Evaporust bath for a couple days and they'll be vastly improved.

Missed that somewhere along the way. Still, "slightly bent" seems less than would give necessary clearance to free a fully locked cap from the valve cover. A photo from the OP would help, if only to determine why that was the point of least resistance at the time of the earth-shattering kaboom.

Is it possible that the oil cap was in place but not fastened? If it weren't, it would certainly be the point of least resistance. Can the OP describe the condition of the cap, specifically the locking tangs? If it was locked in place, they would have to be severely bent at a minimum.

It's not really any more problematic than any other modern BMW engine. You just have to be aware of the weak points and address them. I ran mine out to 200k, and buddy took it up over 225k before he sold it. That said, just rebuild your M10 and dial back the boost. Or better yet, build a NA screamer.

If it were me, at a minimum I'd replace every seal, including the valve guide seals and the VANOS seals, starter, lower coolant tubes (along the block under the intake), CCV system, and clutch no matter what. Age is a factor as well as mileage, and BMW rubber seals are not known for their longevity. As to the rings, well, as noted a leakdown test might help you decide whether it's worth the cost and effort. They don't wear out, they break, so it's not just a matter of mileage. Again, the M54 would not be my first choice. Frankly, I'm not a fan of engine swaps in these cars period, but that's just me. No matter what you do with the M54, just be aware of its weaknesses.