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About Andrej

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  1. Andrej

    Oil help

    Perhaps this will shed a bit of light on which oils still have significant zinc content. It's not as comprehensive as I might like, especially for 20w50, but this site offers the most extensive documentation of virgin oil analyses I've been able to find thus far:
  2. Andrej

    Traveling Tool Kit

    Tool rolls are probably the most efficient way to carry whatever you want (or think you might need). I threw this together out of duplicates, leftovers, and stuff scavenged out of various cars over the years. There's a 3/8" socket set tucked in the right side (including a plug socket), ratchet, extensions, box ends, a set of Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, and feeler gauges. Small plastic box has ignition components, multimeter, fuel filter, electrical tape, 100MPH tape, zip ties, crimp-on connectors, and a few various nuts, bolts, and screws. All fits on the left side of the trunk, bungee-corded in place. If I can't fix it with this, something has gone seriously awry.
  3. For normal street use the particular brand of fluid, and even the boiling points, are far less important than changing it frequently.
  4. DOT 4. Flush every couple of years and you likely won't be doing other brake work again for some time.
  5. Andrej

    Best carb clean method

    I mentioned it in the carb dip thread a few days ago, but it's worth repeating. Simple Green Pro HD, which in spite of the name is purple (not original Simple Green, which is actually green), is safe for all metals, cheap, and easily available. Not as fast as the old toxic carb dips, but it does work. An ultrasonic is going to be faster and ultimately more thorough, but failing that this stuff is decent.
  6. Andrej

    Best carburetor soak?

    I find the newer carb dips are a pale imitation of the old toxic stuff that killed brain cells just by looking at the can for too long. Last carbs I dipped I used Simple Green Pro HD (not the original stuff) - it's cheap, safe for all metals, and works at least as well as the modern carb dips.
  7. Andrej

    Low compression band-aids?

    More likely, after a hearing before a people's tribunal of course, he'd be subjected to endless hours of peer counseling (i.e. public shaming), followed by an extended stay in a reeducation camp where he could learn the error of his ways through hard labor and electroshock. California über alles....
  8. Andrej

    Low compression band-aids?

    Static and dynamic compression are different things. Do you have a stock cam? If not, know that a larger cam, especially one with a lot of duration and overlap, will lower static compression readings. Adding oil and seeing an increased static reading can be a little deceptive too. If you added enough oil and it was viscous enough for some to remain in the cylinder when you tested, you may have reduced the volume of the cylinder and created a false reading. If you really want to know what's going on in there, do a leakdown test. It will be much easier to control and provide more useful data. For now, as others have said, it's fine. Send it.
  9. Andrej

    Help needed - burning oil

    Unless the LR3 motor is a turbo, the N54 case is not particularly applicable. Normally aspirated motors are easier to deal with, as there is no need to worry about keeping boost out of the crankcase. First thing to do is pull the fault codes. After that, put a vacuum gauge on the crankcase (spare oil filler cap, drill, install nipple, mount gauge) and see what's going on in there. I suspect the vacuum spec is pretty low, low enough not to register on a standard InHg gauge. If you get no reading, build a slack-tube manometer and check again - you'll get a reading, only this time in InH20, which is far more precise with small pressure differentials. In any case, get this info and report back. I can tell you the next step is very likely to be a smoke test on the motor. If you're really bored and want to see what I went through figuring out a similar consumption issue on my old M54, you can read what became an odyssey of discovery:
  10. I know that shop very well. I bought my first 2002 from Graham many, many years ago, back when he was in the old building and Pierre was still in the shop pictured.
  11. Thanks. Definitely planning on lapping, so no worries there. Heat on the head, guides in the freezer would be the plan. Any particular recommendations on tools? I need to track down a supplier who offers the range of oversize guides precut for the new style seals.
  12. Thanks for the detailed write-up. Without question a machine shop will be able to do a better/quicker/more precise job of it, but I'm OK with adequate/slow/functional work as long as it's mine. I have a couple more questions if you'll indulge me. As far as sizing the new guides, there seem to be standard and oversize options - are you saying I'll likely need to get them cut to fit properly? Do the new guides get installed from the top as well (I'm assuming they do, but...)? What, if any, machine work will the new guides require? Oh, and Hal, thanks for the offer, but I think one way or another I want to get the new style seals in there.
  13. The question isn't the cost of the new guides, it's having them installed. Unless there's something I've missed, there's no easy way of swapping the guides outside of a machine shop. I'm trying to do as much of this as possible myself, not so much to save a few dollars, but because I want the learning experience. If you know of a way to swap valve guides with basic tools, I'm all ears. On the tool front, Comp Cams seems to offer a range of cutters that should work, dependent upon the measurements of the new style guides, which I need to determine.
  14. Thanks, folks. Simeon, much as I appreciate the offer, it's probably not worth shipping them half way around the world. I will do a little research and see if I can track down a reasonably priced valve guide top cutter. I'll need to get the dimensions on the new style guides, but that shouldn't be too difficult. I'm sure a machine shop could handle it, but I'd rather buy the tool if it's not outrageously priced.
  15. So I'm in the midst of tearing down a spare E12 head for rebuilding, and having just pulled off the old valve seals I see that they are (or were, given the state of degradation) the old style pieces. The guides are good so there's no point in replacing them. In looking at my options I discovered that the old style seals are ridiculously expensive (~$8/ea) compared with the new style (~$.50/each). Intriguingly, I also read a couple mentions here regarding a tool that fits in a drill and allows the old guides to be turned down to accept the new seals. I cannot, however, find a photo or any specifics on this tool. I'd much rather acquire the tool than spend $70 on inferior seals, especially as I've got a 121TI head on deck that's sure to have the old style guides as well. Anyone have any info on this tool and where one might find one?