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Andrej

Solex
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  1. Excellent. Can you make me a set of six for my dining room? And a guillotine to slice the standing rib roast?
  2. There are a couple of ways to do it, but keep it simple. Fused main power (30) and ground (85) direct to the relay. Switching power (86) from the pigtail, through the switch, to the relay, so as to minimize the current through the switch. Power out to the lights (87).
  3. The chart ONLY applies to individual runner carbs, for the reasons others have mentioned above. Carbs that feed a common plenum before the runners are not the same. Note also that the RPM shown is the power peak, not the rev limit. Unless you're building a race engine, you probably don't want 38mm venturis, as this will significantly reduce driveability at lower engine speeds.
  4. There's a chart in Pat Braden's Weber book that at least gives a starting point. It will vary somewhat depending on the application, but it's at least a rough guide. FWIW, I've run 32 and 34mm venturis on the street, and I've driven cars with 30 and 36mm. They can all work, but have very different characteristics at the extremes. For bike carbs with fixed venturis I suspect you'd just have to do some experimenting to find the best arrangement.
  5. Lots of variables to consider: displacement, cam profile, rev limit, and desired RPM for peak power, to name a few. As noted, 40 DCOEs use venturis in the throats to dial in air flow. They are easily tuned for a wide variety of engines and usages. The big advantage of sidedrafts is that the air flow path is short and direct, both ideal when you want high RPM peak power. Far better IMO to use two sidedraft carbs with smaller venturis than one with an intake that significantly reduces the advantage of that direct path into the cylinders.
  6. This. If the condition of the water pump is unknown I'd suggest you simply replace it.
  7. I can't speak for "some guys," but it works better than anything I've ever used, and I've used a few things over the years. Maybe their stuff wasn't sufficiently rusted.
  8. Alternatively, try soaking it in what's sometimes known as weasel piss: 50% ATF, 50% acetone. Greatest penetrating fluid I've ever encountered.
  9. Well, as long as it's a decent 20w50 you should be OK on that count. "With added zinc" suggests it's either one of the motorcycle or racing oils, or perhaps the Lubro-Moly Classic 20w50. FWIW, I use the latter, and noticed immediately that oil pressures were up ~0.5bar from the previous 20w50 (what it was escapes me at the moment).
  10. If we're talking about a viscosity range in which the upper limit is 125% of the lower limit, I feel that's a bit beyond splitting hairs. Maintaining that viscosity over time, of course, is very important. But in the context of oil pressure when hot, it is a point of secondary interest unless the OP's oil has a significant amount of mileage on it and is of a sort that has allowed degradation out of grade over that time. Hopefully he will add that information to the discussion.
  11. So an SAE 50 that's 16cSt@100C is the same as one that's 20cSt@100C? My point was that there's a range - as you indicated - that means that, within a given grade, actual viscosity may vary.
  12. It is heat-related. Spec is 4bar (57psi) @ 4k RPM. If you're not getting to spec, there may be an issue (more likely wear in the reciprocating parts than the oil pump), but if you drive somewhat carefully you're not likely to do any real damage. Also, not all 20w50 (or any grade, for that matter) are the same in terms of actual viscosity. Changing to a heavier-in-grade oil may see some increase in operating pressure.
  13. That place gets packed in the summer, at least the times I've driven by it; September might be a little better. Nonetheless, if you want to plan a meet there people should think about getting in early, as the lot around DD is fairly small.
  14. Drill a small hole in the lower portion of the tube, apply compressed air, weld up hole. Then clean the inside of the tube with a stiff wire brush so this doesn't happen again.
  15. Seriously, get some vacuum on that line and you'll probably see the oil diminish further. Proper crankcase ventilation is good.


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