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Andy74tii

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About Andy74tii

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  1. Well, top end rebuild done now, thanks to Mark Hutto, my great mechanic. Running very well now, but we detected still a rattle potentially in the bottom end... but that is the next chapter. Will drive for a bit to see how it goes, then determine next steps and whether a bottom end rebuild may be in my future.....
  2. Well, finally retrieved my head from the machine shop, Area Machine in north Denver. They did a great job.... My valves were getting worn and a little pitted on the top, so new valves were put in... New rocker arms, shafts, springs, washers, thrust washers, etc... New valve guides put in.... They machined the upper timing cover to match.... Now back to Mark (my mechanic) to put it all back together properly. He is currently working on a 74 tii that has an S14 in it, but I'm right after that one.....
  3. Run4wrd, I have been reading about the scotchbrite debate as well. I asked my mechanic what he does, and literally he uses a scotchbrite (looked red or maroon to me, pretty coarse) on an air tool. As we talked he had the most beautiful fjord 3.0CSi on the lift (yes, a CSi, not a CS), and a 1600 he was working on. He is really about the only guy left who knows anything about tiis in the Denver area.... anyway my point is I absolutely trust him, so I think the scotchbrite thing should be fine....
  4. I took a trip to my mechanic to talk about next steps in the process, and he gave me the option to disassemble the head, then take it directly to the machinist. Since I don't have the "special BMW tool" to get all the rockers just right to slide out the shafts, I had to improvise.... I used various size 3/8 extensions, a hex head to fit into the plugs on the front ends of the rocker shafts, and a medium sized hammer. The one thing my mechanic said to be careful about was mushrooming the end of the shaft, which would then distort the rocker shaft journals.... I think I was careful enough to avoid that.... This was my homemade tool to rotate the camshaft to get the rockers to clear as I pounded the shafts out. Worked pretty well I think.... This is the shaft plug that has a hex head on it. I used a hex head socket to fit in that, so as to minimize the possibility of mushrooming... And there you have it.... I will leave the valves in and hopefully surface them and reuse with new guides and seals. New rocker arms, shafts, hardware, head gasket, and I should be in business....
  5. Thanks for the tip! I'm actually leaning toward the IE shorty header right now, but will look into that. I was looking for a post I saw a long time ago about cleaning the pistons while still in the block, but cannot find it with the search. Do you have any tips around how to do that safely and effectively?
  6. Yes, it's an E12 head, and those are the shallow piano tops.... appreciate the advice on the shorty header, i was just looking at that one on the IE site... thanks!!
  7. Well today I finally took the last steps to remove the cylinder head.... Here is what I found.... To me, the head gasket actually looks pretty good... I really do not see any breaks in it.... Let me know what you think...? So, here is the head... Thus far, I do not see any corrosion in the passages on the head, but will have it checked out... you might recall I found some of what looked like coolant drips on the exhaust manifold flange, which I suspected was either the head gasket break, or perhaps a cracked head. Here is what it looks like it really was... Yes, a pretty nasty crack in the manifold... my question - can this be welded, or are tii manifolds available, barring repair? More to come, comments are gratefully accepted...
  8. Thanks for these data points, very helpful! I've been out of the 02 game for a while, and so not sure what's happening with parts these days; it's good to hear that maybe things are getting back in production. What I have heard on the cutting ring gasket is that you do need to machine the head again once they're removed. They apparently do put a small impression into the surface. Thanks again!
  9. Good tip about the head gasket. I know the engine has been rebuilt once (under my ownership) so I guess I will learn about the height issue soon.... Did you use a cutting ring gasket? In my old receipts, I did see my old mechanic used one of those.... I've been thinking about brakes as well. I assume the tii rotors are still NLA, is that correct? If so, have you thought about an alternative that might have parts that are at least avaiable (wildwood, big brake option, etc.)?
  10. Good thoughts, and I too have the VW locking tool which I have used before for another purpose. I wasn't planning on locking the flywheel, but you have a good point. I was just planning on doing the old "suspend the crank pulley and keep tension on it while the head is out" trick.... No, the stuck nuts are just a couple that are holding on the exhaust manifold, so I will just take the manifold off after I lift the head off. I need to take the head off because I suspect I have either a cracked head (worst case scenario) or blown head gasket (medium case scenario). This is my hypothesis based on the car consuming coolant. In any event, I noted the old "blue smoke on the overrun" issue, which means the valve seals might be going, so I do want to refresh the head. It's got about 75,000 miles (over 17 years) on the clock since the rebuild, so it might be time anyway. My motivation is to prepare the car for a longish road trip to see some friends in Spokane this spring, to replicate a trip I took out there in 1982 with my old 74 2002 (non tii). After that, I will need to make a decision about keeping this tii, or perhaps passing it on to a new owner.... who knows?
  11. I wrestled with the exhaust side yesterday, removing the downpipe, but I could not quite get to two of the nuts under the manifold. So, I'm going to take that off with the head, we'll see if that works.... Moving on, I started to work on getting the engine to Top Dead Center.... I think I succeeded. That is, after my bonehead move wherein I forgot to take the car out of gear and wondered why it was so hard to turn the engine..... ha Anyway, here is where I ended up with the marks: Here is the line on the timing chain sprocket against the oil bar... Here is the Kugelfischer pulley line with the timing cover mark.... Here is the crank pulley notch lining up with the mark on the lower timing cover .... And here is the rotor pointing roughly in the direction of the notch on the distributor body.... It does appear that both valves on #1 are closed when all these marks are aligned... Next step....take off the distributor, remove the tensioner, and deal with the crank pulley...
  12. Well, I started disassembling the intake side today.... I did this a few years ago when I had the intake pieces powder coated, and I also refreshed 3 of the 4 fuel lines.... I suspect the #1 line is still NLA, which is crazy.... First I removed the airbox and disconnected the battery.... Now, remove the intake pipes, leaving the part that holds the injectors (note, these were pure white a couple years ago... This is a clip that often goes missing on these cars... Here's how the valve train looks... Done for now...
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