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Daily02

Solex
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Everything posted by Daily02

  1. You spent all that money building all that power... A muffler could be in place of the resonator, and another in the stock location, plus a large case Walker Super Turbo where the license plate was. Try the mufflers Steve K. recommends he's got the job done before, and it can be done again. Another thing is just give up Laguna except for when Speed Ventures or Shelby Club has a Loud day. Regards Dono
  2. Physically look at at least 5 more 2002's -preferably in his price range- constrast the results with this one. Have a final plan of what you want this car to be. Then create a budget on what it will take to get the car to that point. More times than not a better condition example for more money is the best deal. Paint & body, interiors, trim, motor replacements, and parts aren't cheap anymore as they were before. Even trashed parts cars are going for a lot of money today. Regards Dono
  3. What are you going to do exactly? Trackdays, wheel to wheel, timed competition? If you are doing wheel to wheel or timed competition backing off is out. Why prepare & pay to lose! Are you going to run Laguna Seca on a 90db day? It will be of benefit to have different exhaust setups for different tracks. This is a challenging engineering problem, because you want it quiet and not eliminate the beautiful power output. The quieter system will add weight. Now for the exhaust strategy. Create a system for the quietest track 1st. Add mufflers in series. Run the largest muffler cases that will physically fit (long & wide). Short small mufflers rob power & don't attenuate sound well. David Vizard has data on this. The further back the mufflers are they will be more effective and less restrictive they will be as the exhaust gasses will have cooled and reduced volume. Mount the final muffler(s) beyond the rear of the car. This way you can remove them for the less sound restrictive venues. For a 2002 this will have at least 3 mufflers. This will make for quiet lowest restriction system. Regards Dono
  4. Hey Toby, That site is great. It found the 320i release arm 21 51 1 204 229 and the slave cylinder 21 52 1 116 300 (numbers from document "BMW '02 Transmission Upgrades"). The above items were shown fitting e21 & e30. The 320i release bearing 21 51 1 225 168 was not found, since the arm & slave cylinder are the same it is likely the release bearing is as well? A aftermarket part website selling release bearings should confirm this as a search for each may yield the same replacement part. Thanks! Regards Dono
  5. Hello All, I am preparing to do a Getrag 240 5 speed swap into a 1974 2002. The 5 speed is from a 318i. The information required at this point is the clutch release fork, slave cylinder, and the release bearing the same as on the 320i with a 245 5 speed? I will be using the stock 1974 clutch. Regards Dono
  6. I had problems with snap oversteer in the wet -at normal street speeds- with the Kumho TA11's. In the dry they were actually quite good. Not TW200 good, but better than expected. I even did a dry Autocross with them (just to collect points in class). If it weren't on & off wet 5 months out of the year... Phoenix & SoCal they would be good. Regards Dono
  7. Very interesting. They are using old tire moulds and using modern race compound rubber. This takes the CN36 out as well. 7C (45F)... That is 5 months out of the year. The CN36 and the Vedestein Sprint TW 160 are for cars that sit in heated garages waiting for that perfect day, or possibly Vintage Racers that must run a stock sizes. It seems real street 02's are limited to "trailer" tires, and low budget all season radials. The 02 is a light car, and will likely make the most of this limited rubber. It almost makes me want to go with 15 X 7's for some okay choices, but low grip will allow for easier sliding at under take me away in hand cuffs speeds on mountain roads. Regards Dono
  8. That is a nice solution. I didn't know about Bilstein Alpina negative camber struts. I replaced the shocks with Bilstein's less than 500 miles ago. If I would have known about them...
  9. I do my own alignments -from my old NASA Racing days- and I enjoy such projects. If it screws up then I will replace the strut body, and it likely needs that now.
  10. CN36's can't take sub freezing temperatures? I thought these were standard equipment on new Porsche's. I know the Veredestein's cannot, so they are out.
  11. My Bluntech fixed camber plates have the stock hats all the way over against the inner opennings. I would need back of the side that is more negative than the other which is undesirable. That is why I want the adjustment with the strut tube. The side with too much positive camber had a badly blown strut -the bump stop had exploded- and tie rod end trashed. The strut is likely bent from bottoming from the previous owner. He just kept driving it. The control arm is undamaged. Regards Dono
  12. Has anyone tried the Montreal eco-2 185/70-13 which is an H speed rated tire from multiple vendors? Another is the Uniroyal Rainexpert 3 185/70-13. I like this one as the mountain roads are commonly wet around here. I agree if the the Pirelli CN36 is available it is the go to tire. They have been out of stock for awhile. Regards Dono
  13. This is good. Bringing up the potential problems. How big a press is required? I would stay on the lighter side of the adjustment. I am trying to equalize the camber right to left without bearing camber plates. I currently have Bluntech fixed plates. The car is for street, and traveling. Heim end adjustable camber plates would be a huge mistake for me even though it is the easy button here. I also thought about slitting the tube, bending it, and mig welding it at the proper angle. Or even easier would be redrilling the strut hats for the correction. I will likely go with longer control arms for additional camber. Regards Dono
  14. I already have fixed camber plates. I just wanted more negative camber, and was hoping that there was a non complexed procedure for this modification. I would like too avoid the offset roll center spacer as well. Longer control arms are another option. Regards Dono
  15. Hello, It was noted in the spring rate poll that one of the setups mentioned bending the strut tubes for more negative camber in front (-1, -1.5 degrees). What method have you used to do this successfully? Regards Dono
  16. Since the dash goes dead when it stops running: Check the ignition switch. It could be part of the problem. Regards Dono
  17. You are in LA. That is the land of relatively low rust cars (except for internal rust). Take your time and enjoy the search! That thing is race car material only. Gut it, blast it, cage it, and go from there. No more than $800 even for that. Regards Dono
  18. I am just going to reiterate much of this advice. 1) Have a very clear intention on what you want the finished car to be. 2) By all means take the car to a BMW Specialist and get an evaluation of its true condition, and a quote for the needed repairs (even if you are going to do the work on your own). It will be money well spent. At this point you can make an assessment on whether this project makes sense for you financially with the parts cost, plus contingency for tools & outside services. If they say too rusty then its time to move on. 3) If you want a car that looks nice -read non-patina- check for a cheap -kind of wash & spray- repaint. If this is the case returning the car to a nice state will require stripping of all the areas where this poorly applied paint resides. This is really terrible if it is around the motor. As said before interior restoration is quite costly on these cars, so make sure and assess your stopping point here well. 4) If you are looking for a project and life experience -with disregard to cost and time frame. Forget all the above. Then buy it and just enjoy the process of the rescue, and welcome to the community! Regards Dono
  19. Mine is the one on the right as you got from Pierce Manifolds. I would like to replace it with a jet for testing. Any idea of the name and the part number for the jet? Thanks! Regards Dono
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