cencal2002

@bavariaboy I think I may end up with a couple spares after this whole ordeal. Thanks for sharing about the vinyl strips in the trunk. I had noticed those, but I have yet to see many 02's in person to compare. Looking forward to going to a meetup someday! @bergie33 We'll find out if I get to keep the broken pump, would be nice to be able to take the parts and rebuild the original BMW casted one. The Clymer 2002 Workshop Manual (highly recommend) has instructions, but it looks like you need a hydraulic press to pop the flange off and then you have to change out the bearing and set specific clearances then loctite it back on with the press. After reading all that, I think I'll wait till I feel called to tackle that elective and have a press. @billy g I'm going to install with a new OEM gasket before using any sealant. I've replaced a water pumps in cars and tractors and never needed a gasket sealant. The hard part is keeping the gasket in the right spot when you're installing it so you don't damage it. I'll probably do a test run with the Saleri gasket and then use the BMW one for the real deal. I just read someone using a small amount of spray adhesive to keep it in spot (might try that if I have a hard time). To prep, I cleaned where the water pump impeller rusted on the timing chain cover with some brake cleaner, #0000 steel wool, and a towel. I still need to find a brush to clean out the holes for the bolts and I'll put Permatex anti-seize when reinstalling them for my future self.

The new Saleri Water Pump was delivered today which gave me a nice comparison between Original BMW Water Pump, Saleri Water Pump, and the new rebranded BMW Water Pump. I weighted them in at: 995g - Original BMW Casted Water Pump 947g - New w/o cast Genuine BMW 937g - Saleri Water Pump Here are the picture comparisons of the three. The torn gasket came with the Genuine BMW Water Pump. Too hot today to install the water pump... BMW Left vs Saleri Right New BMW Outlet: Saleri Outlet: Saleri Weight: New BMW Weight: Factory BMW Stamped Water Pump: Saleri Gasket (top) vs BMW Gasket (bottom)

Here is a video of the car's original factory paint and areas of rust:

I ordered it from bmwpartsdeal.com. I had done some research on these ahead of time and was expecting not a BMW cast but I was surprised the terrible quality and zero insignia. When I ordered, since it was so expensive, I was considering shelving it for the future and using one of the aftermarket brands. Now I just want a refund. I guess that's the plan! Either way I'm having a good time learning about these cars. Thank you for your input.

I was looking at the lid with my dad and noticed the switch on the right side. We were both trying to figure out how in the world it was hooked up.

In preparation for the Genuine BMW Water Pump being delivered, I spent the morning removing a bunch of components from the engine bay. I removed the Radiator, Water Pump, AC Compressor, AC Condenser, etc. USPS usually comes at 4pm so I figured I could bang out the reinstall of the water pump by sundown. The water pump was stamped BMW and rusted out. Open the box and the pulley flange is broken, plus nothing to even show it was a genuine BMW part besides the box. Piece of junk… I’m getting a new Saleri delivered instead and sending this back. At least the Thermostat is stamped BMW: Sooo.. As I wait for this new water pump to arrive and I’ve got a bunch of things to install on this car.. My mind keeps going back to the rust on the driver side A pillar. I removed the speakers that were installed in a round cutout of the kick panels and you can see an opening on the drivers side… I think this needs to be fixed and I don’t want to spend any more time/money if I am going to have to pull things out to deal with this rust issue later. So my question to the group... What do you recommend in regards to the rust? This car is excellent condition otherwise as far as I can tell. I was thinking about taking it to a body shop who specializes in 2002’s to do some final touch up of the paint job and fix the rust etc. Is there anywhere people recommend? Should I get over it and keep moving forward knowing I won't have to touch the interior to fix it and deal with it later? Thanks, Nick

So it's been a couple weeks without much work being done on the car and I haven't been able to drive it. Unfortunately the water pump is squealing like crazy and it started overheating when I went out for a test drive. I've been learning a ton about these cars. This is where I am at with the various issues with the car. I am really open to suggestions and feedback. I am trying to keep the car as factory and stock as possible. Electrical: 1. Blinkers - This was the first thing I tried to tackle. The Hazard Switch and Hazard Relay have been replaced. Now the right rear turn signal flashes but stays on regardless of the turn signal switch position. If I jiggle the wiper/turn signal switch I am able to get the blinker light on the dash to function. I was able to find a NLA switch lever which arrived yesterday. Heres hoping this issue is put to rest after that is installed. 2. Reverse Light - Probably the easiest fix. Reverse lights now work. 3. Fog Lights - The originals mounted to the top of the bumper are in bad shape. There were some NOS Aris Flamethrowers in chrome I found for sale. They we're way more than $7 a piece... 4. Stereo - The stereo wasn’t picking up any stations and the antenna was broken. I installed a new antenna. My plan is to replace the head unit with something from Retro Manufacturing. Mechanical issues: 1. Water pump - I have a new pump (PN: 11-51-9-056-401) and thermostat (PN: 11-53-1-253-249) on order which should be here the first week in Sept. 2. Air Conditioner The original York AC compressor was making noise and needs to be replaced. I ordered a new mounting bracket from BluntTech and a Sander 508 compressor. I am going to run new lines as well, but I plan to keep the existing factory condenser. I found a new side for the existing Frigiking unit incase I move the hazard light and the original had some extra holes and paint. 3. Transmission linkage - It looks like the PO started to take it apart but wasn't able to reassemble. I've got basically the whole assembly on order. You can see the original carpet under the blue. 3. Sunroof Both guides are broken along with the seals and felt, these parts are on order. 4. Valve Seals - In the short amount of time I was able to drive it, when under quick deceleration white smoke comes out of the exhaust. It didn’t happen every time. This was something I figured I would need to address… I haven’t done a compression test yet. Box of goodies....

Hello, I’m looking to purchase a set of shallow left and right metal grille’s. If anyone has some in good shape they’d be willing to part with, please let me know. Thanks, Nick

Thank you all for the replies and tips! @Mike Thanks for noticing that. I ordered a Snorkel from eBay and the intake hose from Pelican. I wondered what that hole next to the radiator was for! I already have the hazard on order and it looks like the relay is toast too (see pic). I ordered the hood seals too thank you 76mint! @chargin Already ordered a new one, but I’ll check that out when I take it apart to replace it. @saaron Thanks! I found a little rust behind the driver side wheel well (see pic) and the fender is a little loose on that side as a result. So not perfect but *hopefully* not a bad place to start. @Carlos_M Ahh another thing I’ll need to purchase! Thank you for noticing. Found this part using RealOEM… I think I’m pelican’s new favorite customer. BMW Sunroof Rubber Seal Genuine BMW 54.12.1.801.211 54121801211 54 12 1 801 211 54-12-1-801-211 | Pelican Parts WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM Genuine BMW Sunroof Rubber Seal InStock Ships Today! $33.75. Call (310)626-8765. May Qualify For FREE SHIPPING... I took out the Back-up Light Switch and tested it with an ohmmeter. Doesn’t pass current, so I’ve got one of those on order. BMW Back-Up Light Switch Genuine BMW 23-14-1-352-153 23.14.1.352.153 23141352153 23 14 1 352 153 | Pelican Parts WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM Genuine BMW Back-Up Light Switch $38.00. Call (310)626-8765. May Qualify For FREE SHIPPING. Parts# 23 14 1 352 153... The popcorns for the doors are missing so I’ve got some of those on order too. BMW Door Latch Buffer Genuine BMW 51.21.1.809.735 51 21 1 809 735 51211809735 51-21-1-809-735 | Pelican Parts WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM Genuine BMW Door Latch Buffer $5.25. Call (310)626-8765. May Qualify For FREE SHIPPING. Parts# 51 21 1 809 735... The passenger door ajar switch is missing the round plastic piece in the middle so I’ll need to replace that too. The fog lights are cut so I need to rewire those back in. The instrument panel lights are burned out too. I might be doing some rewiring when I replace that hazard light…. I’m going to remove the head and inspect everything when I get a chance sometime this week. Thanks again for the input. I’ll do my best to keep this thread updated. …Nick

Hey All - I’ve been wanting a 2002 for awhile and finally pulled the trigger on this one. It was owned by a doctor who lived in Santa Monica and drove it a couple miles to work each day. It was sold by the doctors grandson to an auto detailer in Oxnard who repainted it with the original color and got it to the point it’s at today. My main issues right now are: Blinkers don’t work and the hazard switch is stuck out but lit up so I ordered a new one of those which should arrive by the end of the week. Backup lights also don’t work. The bulbs are fine so my next step is to check the switch in the transmission. Amber Aris fog lights are disconnected and one is totally cracked so I’m planning on replacing those with the chromed version to keep everything original as possible. York compressor was squealing so I cut the belt and my plan is to replace that after I deal with the electrical issues. Cosmetically both bumpers are a little rusty and the driver side rear vertical piece is bent. I might try and get those chromed or order some refurbished to make it look a cleaner. Here’s hoping the hazard switch fixes the blinker! Best, Nick