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RoadTripper

Solex
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Everything posted by RoadTripper

  1. In 1967 it wouldn't make any sense to have a constant mesh transmission and omit the synchro for first gear. That said, I have read that the early transmissions had issues with the 2nd gear synchro being weak and prone to failure. I've been following your saga with great interest. I admire your tenacity with trying to deal with the tranny that came out of a car 8 or 9 years older, that had been superseded by a newer tranny for a number of reasons, and that may have issues from the start that won't be solved by installation remedies. If I missed it, my apologies, but why haven't you tried to sell this tranny and get the proper tranny for the car? If you try to sell your car with a tranny that is incorrect, 9 years older than the build date of your car, and superseded by a superior transmission, anyone who knows and is looking will see that isn't the right tranny for that year 2002 and will discount the selling price by the cost and installation of a correct transmission. Especially if you can't prove the incorrect tranny was professionally rebuilt prior to installation. I look at repairs this way: if it's a tractor, bailing wire, gaffer's tape and brute force will do. If it's a collectible classic car, nothing will do but attempts to match original parts(OEM) or improved aftermarket parts to the vehicle and have any work that I am not qualified to do subbed out to the correct technician. But, I get that a 2002 is a DIY dream and is fun to work on. I love both of mine and everytime I compare the design to an American car of the same year, I would look forward to working on the 2002 and dread working on the American car. Design and execution count, and BMW has it in spades. US manufacturers don't and really never did.
  2. I think somebody put a 73-earlier box in your car, which should have the later-model box. Worse, I'd bet donuts to dollars that this box had a rebuild prior to install, and the rebuild was less than precise and may not have used the correct OEM parts(like the rubber plug...) and used Loctite red to get it all together(hack-a-pottamus). That tranny is likely only good as a core(lmao) at this point. Look for a 242 that was original to the 74-76 that it came out of when the owner threw a 5 speed in. There aren't "plenty" of those, but they exist. The one in CO for $200 is ridiculously cheap if it's even close to spec.
  3. Sure, the chain looks a bit loose. Clearly a new sprocket, pump and chain have been added. I'd be concerned that is the correct chain for that application. Possibly even the correct pump part#. Might be worth looking at? That's a pretty clean looking engine bay!
  4. Well.....it turns out the new steelies were unavailable. It's a long story..... Anyway, the best deal I could find for blasting to bare, priming, powdercoating and then clearcoating was $100/wheel. With that in mind, I am going to see how I do at DIY wheel painting by practicing on the spare, which is way worse than the other 4. Plus, the spare just sits in the trunk, right? To make this project even more DIY, I am going to leave the 20 year old spare tire on the wheel while I do the reno to the wheel.....photos of before and after to follow......when I get this done.... If I hadn't already ordered brand new Kumho Solus 18570r13's I might go in a different/bigger direction....
  5. Did a thorough clean-out of the trunk. Removed the spare and the well was in surprisingly good shape. But, there was a pool of water above the well which means....that since I pulled Jadegrun out of the barn, she has developed a leak. Most likely the rear window seal has leaked somehow. The trunk seal seams to be excellent and fully intact. Time to get into the back seat and do a good inspection of the rear deck card....uggggggggh. At least I could not find any underbody rust. And, I found a reason...... At some point, the car had been rustproofed.......possibly Ziebart.....no sticker in the window though....\\ Everything is out of the trunk and the lid is open to dry it all out in this fine weather.
  6. Man, that 2002 was being FLOGGED!!! Plus, is it just me or did the little roundie seem.......juiced?
  7. Answering your PM's would be a good start. Just saying...
  8. Two of the caps have dings where prior tire store idiots pounded them on with hammers. I kid you not. No way to fix them.
  9. I'm thinking it will probably take more than an hour per wheel for me to prep and paint. That's 4 hours, minimum. Add another 1/2 hour apiece to refinish the center caps . Six hours is a lot of time, when the alternative is $500 for brand new w/ brand new center caps vs. home-painted 46 year old steel wheels and centers. Let's see.....six hours minimum and maybe $100 in paint, primer, brass wheels, degreaser and new inserts for the center caps vs. $500 for brand new everything...... But what about sandblasting and powdercoating? I have NO idea where you guys are getting $25 and $30 per wheel prices for blasting AND powdercoating. No Les Schwab within hundreds of miles! LOL. The cheapest around here is $50/wheel that I could find. That makes the decision to buy new even easier... Thanks to everyone for their help. I will keep the original-to-the-car wheels and caps for the next owner....it's good to have a barn...
  10. Hi gang! Can really use some input. I have taken the original steel wheels off the 1975 Jadegrun. They aren't tragic, but need to be painted. Also, the center cap inserts are faded to nothing and the caps themselves aren't pretty. So, my options are: 1. Wire wheel the steelies the best I can, use a rattle can etching primer and a rattle can silver paint. That's a lot of wire wheel effort! 2. Send the wheels for sandblasting. I am trying to get a price on that now. Then, send the wheels out for priming/paint or rattle can it myself. 3. Order brand new factory steelies from BluntTech at $90/each along with new center caps at $30/each. With delivery I would have a total of $124 per wheel, center cap included. I am leaning towards the New steelies from BluntTech. Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions? Tips? Help? THANKS GUYS!!
  11. I was confused as well. It looks like a water choke with an electric choke installed. Is it still for sale?
  12. That doesn't seem like a tragic price for all the work and new parts on the car. Sure, it's not number's matching and has been a serial-project car for a while, but it's not at all that far from being ready to go. Pretty sure 10k is a great buy, but what do I know?
  13. Going to take a fair amount of machining on that head....yikes....
  14. How did you find what Amsoil filter to use? Their website only goes to 1979....
  15. Wow. The strikes are so linear and equal in length. And so consistent in each cylinder. However, look at the #4 piston. Something extra, like in #2 was going on in there. Even your intake valves in #1 and #4 have evidence of that linear impact. Which, if you think about it......how the hell does that even happen? Think about it.....the linear strike hit the intake valve hard enough to dent it? Perfectly linear while the valve is angled away from the explosion/combustion? Whatever it was had to be hardened tool steel to damage the valve head in this manner, I would guess.
  16. Oh no! I put a Wix 51374 on my 1975 2002 base! Will it blow up? Seriously though, I believe the 51374 is a direct replacement for the OC84 which is what should be run on the base 1975 2002 anyway? There was also an STP filter that came up as a direct replacement, S3816. I think the Wix has a silicone drain back valve where the STP drainback valve isn't silicone....the cost difference was 2x. Just for reference, the Wix cost only three bucks less than the Mobil 1 1-102 which should work as well....
  17. Changed the oil. Used a Wix 51374 from O'Reilly's and went across the street to Autozone for some "high zinc" Valvoline 20W50 VR1 racing oil/flat tappet oil. The only vehicle we own easier to change oil in is a John Deere diesel 3cyl that I can wrench the oil bolt with the left hand while turning the oil filter with my right. Next up is trying to figure out what coil to go with what Petronix to go with the distributor on my 1975 2002. Then, whether to go with a water choke Weber or an electric choke Weber to replace the stock Solex 2bbl..... Already replaced the plug wires and coil wire with STI wires and removed the old harness off the valve cover and re-routed via the fender wall to keep away from the heat....
  18. So...this is for ALL BMW of each year of manufacture? Only 5 1975 BMW in all of Missouri? If so and If I were in Missouri, I would own 3 of the 5 1975, but only because the 4th isn't currently registered. That's a crazy low figure. So there are like 3 2002 and 2 3.0CS 1975's registered in all of MO? Or only 5 1975 2002? Either way, it seems really really small for that model year. Especially if that counts 2002 and 3.0CS....
  19. I don't have time for two! One is going to be sold. Thanks everyone for their suggestions! I will email SMM2002 and call David Layton tomorrow or this weekend. I will also try to touch base with Greg at BimmersRUs. With spring hitting with a bang, we are swamped with chores. I still have to do the annual PM on the tractor, along with a tire repair on it. There's 3/4 of one day shot...
  20. So, I have two 1975 2002's. The Jadegrun is totally stock, down to me replacing the original plug wires recently. Typical tank rust issues, but no real rust anywhere else we can find. I will get under it to give a better look. This one I will use as our weekend driver, as it currently is running pretty well and the issues it has, I can fix. If it gets a restoration, I would do it as original. The other 1975 is "complete but not running". Meaning it has been in the barn for the last....20 years? Not even sure it was running when stored(we think it wasn't, it was going to be a project car.) This one I need opinions on. Should I go for an original restoration(it is NOT a ti/tii car) or a racing tribute resto mod? Since it will need all new parts for everything, I am leaning towards racing tribute resto mod, as I think the price point may come in much lower than restoring to original. THOUGHT? ANYONE KNOW ANY GOOD 2002 SHOPS IN/NEAR ST. LOUIS???? Thanks!
  21. Currently rigging a set of insulated conduit hangers to substitute as a replacement for the factory plastic spark plug and coil wire loom. The old plug wire ends were shot and the thing was original.....46 years ago....surprised plug wires actually lasted 46 years and....probably 100,000 miles...will post pics when done. Anyone know where to source the front strut tower mounts with rubber tops?
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