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Overdraft

Alpina
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  1. MVL is the manufacturer of the trim product that I bought from Roger. It was complete, good quality and true to the original. Was not inexpensive though 😐…
  2. Thanks for the comments all. In the end, I sought out a body shop with the patience to listen to me as I explained what I had learned through FAQ - photos and all. The MVL mouldings provided by Rogers Ti were excellent . Car looks much more complete.
  3. I have a double lift..two cars in the air - two underneath - and my fifth Bendpak. I like them a lot as most everyone does.
  4. The PO of my car did a beautiful glass/ motor out paint job. His vision was NO chrome - NO moldings - wheels offset out etcetera. I am modifying the car to my taste and I really like the rocker trim and particularly the belt molding. I ordered a set from Roger's Ti and now two people have spooked me into re-drilling the holes that were filled by the PO and potential damage to an otherwise 8 on 10 paint job and highlighting irregularities in the the door - hood - trunk alignments. I am aware of the adhesive molding some have used - which looks pretty good for sure - but I just wanted to go that extra little bit. Simple question is - have any of you heard of using two way molding tape or other no intrusive technic that I mitigate risk. In a perfect work, there would be a product of perfect thickness that hides it self within the MVL trim piece and 'sticks' to the body of the car....but I am not hopeful that has been done. Any ideas? Thanks for potential responses.
  5. Just went through this…and so thankful for the help of the forum and more particularly my neighbour who was tremendous help with knowledge AND parts. I put the car back together yesterday and started the fan….was music….no actually a symphony!… to my ears.
  6. Thanks for posting. A creative way to demonstrate how beautifully your car runs…and have some fun doing it.
  7. Thanks to all. It appears a friend of mine has tracked one down less than 1/2 hour from me...and given we are in Canada, that’s a borderline unicorn. I will start my stretching now anticipating physical contortions under my dash this weekend as my ‘new-to me’ fan install awaits.
  8. Hello all. My heater fan motor is shot... heater box is cracked but fixable....heater Valve bracket broken..but maybe can be saved...resistor bracket lifted, but I think I can Mcgivor that.....and...well you get the idea. I need a motor for sure...but if there was someone who had a reconditioned box/ fan complete...that would be great as well. Any leads to where I could source this?
  9. Thanks to all for the excellent ideas and comments. I will be jumping into it this weekend and very thankful to have a long term FAQ member rummaging through his garage to find parts and tools to help.
  10. Fuse is good yes. I have power at one terminal of the motor but when I run a jumper from opposite terminal to ground...motor doesn’t start which leads me to think, motor is defective. Getting bits and pieces to dismantle and reassemble that box and repair the motor is a pain in a pandemic believe me...curbside pickup...not reading labels to choose caulking ..getting a turkey baster to remove coolant - then fixing/ replacing motor...bit of a drag.
  11. It would have been a female a little wider than I the variety I had..but I soldered a tail on instead which worked. Motor still doesn’t work though...😕
  12. I have now soldered (Mgivored) the ground...but I have lost the 12v I had at the hot side of the fan motor ? I have added WD 40 to the motor...and it certainly is easier to move...it doesn’t spin freely however but per say but moves freely if that makes sense - just don’t know how free they are supposed to move. I will follow the circuit diagram John posted earlier and see if I can sort it out. I can’t get 12v when I put my tester in the socket of the panel light either. Is that a clue? ....or am I just avoiding the inevitable to replacing that blasted motor?
  13. Reviving this thread which has been very helpful. I am trying to solder a new female tail onto the old brass (ground) tab a la ‘Method A’ by Dudeland in preceding post. Unfortunately (but thankfully) I have not pulled the heater box and trying to solder a new female tail on the broken blade while laying on my back under the dash...brutal- but anyway, despite flux, proper soldering iron again and multiple attends, it will not solder..I mean 6 attempts. Do I keep trying or is the material that the tab made of not solderable??....tab is looking shabby now 😔. The worst of it is with the Pandemic, I can’t simply go to the auto electric place and get a variety of connectors to try - even yesterday I had to get Flux from a friend ..I am Mgivoring everything the past three weeks just to keep my projects moving forward. Any ideas to why my soldering isn’t working? update: It turns out when I swapped out the tip from my iron..it worked brilliantly. Tail is now installed...but motor still doesn’t work 🤔
  14. I will try that next...but I think the fan motor has seized...certainly it doesn’t spin freely. I appreciate everyone’s ideas and experiences.
  15. So the grey/ brown terminal was broken on the resistor board - and even when I held the conductor on the tab, I could not make that fan start try as I might...either that way OR per my previous post, grounding the fan so I have to assume the fan is seized (because grounding it when I had power at it I couldn’t make it go either). I haven’t opened up the box...but it appears the job I was dreading is upon me. Can you buy just the board and the motor and rebuild everything else in situ? The foam gaskets and operation of the flaps are pretty good actually......but alternatively- after searching and reading on the subject - is there a complete heater box/ fan kit you can buy?
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