bwint313

Will do. I rebuilt the carb recently and set it to 41mm. Any input on the best float levels for these beasts?

I have a Weber 32/36 DGAV. I'm assuming that is one of the webers that has the solenoid. If it's bad, is it something that can be replaced?

I've just finished some fairly extensive rust repair and am enjoying driving my 73 '02. Overall, the car starts up well (even though it's about 30 degree F out) and runs well. But I'm running into a issue when I lift off/go into neutral when coming to a stop (ex at a stop light). When the car is heated up, the car will stall (or will come VERY close to stalling), but will then start right back up. I've set the fast and slow idle and the slow ideal who be giving it enough juice to keep from stalling. Any ideas? -BW

I've just rebuilt the Weber 32/36 DGAV on my 02 and I'm having a bit of trouble setting the choke. How do most people set them on these? Do you install the 3 bolt choke assembly without tension and then turn the assembly to the desired tension level? Any tips, tricks or advice is appreciated. -BW

Wooow! that's pretty mind blowing. I will say, I fixed an pressurized oil passage on an old subaru and it held for over 20,000 miles with that repair. Im just amazed that the JB weld held up under those temps. I guess it really will stick anything together!

That's some pretty big burn through. He fixed that with brazing? The thing i've worried about with brazing is the bonding metal melts at a lower temp than the base metal, do I'd worry about it 'remelting' if it was in a combustion chamber. -BW

Evening all, I'm in a bit of a tight spot at the moment. The e12 head originally on my car had a crack so I bought a (supposedly) good, used, head from a reputable '02 parts supplier and now it turns out this head has a couple cracks as well. The cracks are minor (both by the spark plug holes and seem to have been caused by someone over torquing the plugs) but in the end of the day they're still cracks and i'm still kinda screwed. Anyways, at this point I'm looking for next steps. I've invested a ton of time into refurbishing this head and would like to keep it if possible. Does anyone know who welds BMW head in the Detroit area? Most people i've talked to in the midwest won't even touch BMW heads because of the bad rep the new engines have. Or has anyone welding/brazed a crack cylinder head before? I'm not against trying to weld/braze it myself, but would want input into the process. Open to any thoughts, ideas or options -BW

Evening everyone, I bought a cylinder head gasket said and it came with a handful of gaskets that I can't quite identify. Are these for the old solex carburetors? Any info would be helpful. Thanks -BW

My valves don't look like that, but I haven't replaced them. The pic you shared is of the 'new' valve guide, isn't it?

I'm pulling my hair out on this one. I've tried two different kinds of valve seals and neither seems to fit correctly. I believe I should have the early style valve guides, but I've attached a pic of my guides and measurements in hopes that someone in the grand ol' 02 universe can help me make sense of this. My car is a 73 '02 with an e12 head (and before anyone asks, yes I have used the search feature). Guides I've tried: - Reinz 12-21025-01: these came out of the box a bit rusty and just seemed way too tight even when putting on with a socket and light rubber mallet. They didn't feel like they would fit, but I'm also wondering if they were old and rusty so they failed too easily when install (open to input). - Elring 187666: these fit over the guides better, but they were not long enough to 'lock' into the notch on the guide. Any help is appreciated. I'm in the final stages of a head rebuild and it stinks that this is what's holding me back. -BW