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eviction_party

Solex
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Everything posted by eviction_party

  1. I’ve been using that silicone gasket for a couple years now with no issue. Per the manufacturer’s directions, I attached it to the valve cover with RTV. I tighten it down by feel making sure everything is evenly squished. It’s nice being able to pop the valve cover on and off with no concern about needing a new gasket, and having the gasket semi-permanently attached to the cover is convenient, too.
  2. That's the exact same symptom i got when my brake booster started leaking. How did you check the valve and hose? You could also have a leak from the rubber gasket that's between the valve and booster. I don't remember at the moment if there is a gasket between the booster and the master cylinder, but that shouldn't have an effect in this situation (someone can correct me if I'm wrong) To check the booster, use a mityvac or similar device to pull vacuum thru where the check valve connects to the booster and have a helper push down on the brakes -- if the level drops, it has a leak. You have to fully disconnect the master cylinder and all the brake lines to remove the booster -- trust me I tried leaving it connected!
  3. Getting to the bottom of my horn not working — seems like a PO broke off the tab on the brass ring, so they drilled some holes for a plunger and swapped in a e21 wheel… but that plunger was also broken. I soldered a jumper wire to the brass ring and we will see how it holds up, hopefully at least until I feel like spending seventy dollars on a replacement ring haha!
  4. When I had a hole in the head it lost pressure immediately... since water was dripping out. After getting a new (well, used but better condition) head, it held pressure overnight, after tightening a few hoses of course. If you have a route for coolant into the oil -- which you do -- then it seems to me like the radiator shouldn't hold any pressure, as the coolant system will be dripping or leaking somewhere. Something must be happening only when the engine heats up?
  5. When I was chasing an issue with water in my oil, I rented a radiator pressure tester and hooked it up to the cooling system. I knew water was getting in my oil somehow -- and this showed me where. There was a corroded spot in the head right behind the cam pulley that was porous to water, and with the radiator pressurized, I could easily see it dripping out! Since it wasn't in a typical spot, the machine shop missed this during their testing. I ended up getting a new head.
  6. This sounds like a needle valve that isn't sealing. If you haven't cleaned the carb, there could be some junk in there preventing a seal, or the seat is worn and needs replacing. Easy fix to try!
  7. Sorry, i thought I was in that forum! Posting from my phone, you know how it goes…
  8. Anyone have a MOMO hub and/or horn button they would like to part with? Any usable condition is fine. Seems a shame to buy a brand new one when I'm sure there are many in people's spare parts bins!
  9. haha, good memory! I think I do remember meeting you then. There’s quite a few 02s in San Jose. Interesting to think about why your points might’ve closed up so quickly. Points gap decreases over time from the cam follower wearing down, but that usually (conveniently!) coincides with oil changes. The other thing that can decrease the points gap is corrosion/buildup on the contact points themselves from arcing caused by a bad condenser — this has happened to me. PM me, maybe I can stop by sometime and lend a few spare parts
  10. Seems like your engine has been a little flaky starting ever since you got the car? And you've been unable to start it since adjusting the points? Since the problem went away (briefly) with a fresh set of plugs, it does seem to point towards something ignition related -- maybe a weak spark. You could try swapping in parts from a known good ignition system (aka one off a well-running car) and see when it starts. It’d also be worthwhile to confirm you don’t have any vacuum leaks that would be affecting your air-fuel ratio — check all around the carb, vacuum lines, brake booster hose, etc. My car has been harder to start and easier to flood when it's had a vacuum leak.
  11. Our 71 was a basket case when we bought it a couple years ago — last registered in ‘88 with lots of evidence it was in a flood in the meantime! Now it’s back on the road using an entirely minimal budget. It’s fun. on one hand, you can try your best to preserve what’s there. On the other hand, anything you do will be an improvement, so the pressure is low!
  12. I got this block with no accessories— so no hardware to send to a plating shop! I forgot about belmetric, though. I’ll check them out. I got bored last night and started making a spreadsheet of the bolts based on realOEM diagrams. Should have all the sizes there when it’s done.
  13. Finally found some time to finish up painting the block. I didn’t really like the idea of spray paint, having had poor adhesion on engine parts in the past, so when I found a video from Uncle Tony’s Garage about brush painting a block I went with that. Used a torch to wick out the moisture from the block, wiped down with acetone, then one coat of primer, and two coats of gloss black. Then I got it mounted up in my engine stand, wrapped in plastic, and tucked away in the corner of the basement until I’ve got a day to dedicate to bottom end assembly. any advice on hardware kits? I see IE and Walloth both have some kits together. Not sure if they include the oil pan bolts though. I might just order the sizes I need from fastenal, but the yellow zinc from IE and Walloth is very nice!
  14. I had a large amount of gunk in that hole too -- keep trying and you should be able to free something. I think I ended up using a brass punch and tapping it with a mallet until it poked through. This was on a car that had been sitting outside for 30 years. Why would you like to rotate the engine to drain the block? Not sure I see the reason to. But, if you do rotate the crank, there's really nothing to be afraid of. Just make sure piston 1 and the cam are both at TDC before you reinstall the head. There's a procedure to follow, and you'll be double-checking the timing, too.
  15. What will give you the most enjoyment -- driving it as it is (with a bad paint job), or having nice paint? Make sure you take into account the downtime for painting, too! With my car being as rough as it is, I'm firmly in the patina camp personally, but you can DIY some things to make it more attractive to your eyes. I've had good results using CLR + green scotch brite to remove surface corrosion and rust staining on paint. After that, coat with some linseed oil, penetrol, fluid film, or wax to add some water resistance and luster. I've been wanting to have a go with some polishing compound and an orbital sander, but haven't had the time recently. In your case, the original enamel paint might be underneath the sandpapery surface, and that'll be much more durable than the respray. On my car, I've been able to scrub away the 80's respray in my engine bay and other spots to reveal some original chamonix that has a much nicer luster.
  16. Haha, I'm sticking with the stock cam! I've had a E12 head rebuilt from JFPro that's waiting for this build. The pistons came with rings, pins, and circlips. After an issue with the wrong wrist pins being sent with my pistons (the machine shop noticed right away), I've finally got my block back from the shop. TEP was very quick with the replacement pins, but all the stopping and starting while waiting for parts slowed down the machine work -- plus I was out of town a lot this fall. I can't complain really! I also had my shop install the rods on the pistons, and gap + install the rings. I've started prepping the block for paint and taking stock of all my parts. Looks like I'm only missing head bolts, rod bearings, and the timing chain; I've got everything else on hand. After those parts come in, I should be able to get it assembled, and then store the long block until I get my hands on a neighbor's old subframe. I'd like to get the new motor mounted up to that rebuilt subframe so I can drop the old assembly and swap in the new stuff with minimal downtime.
  17. I'm missing my whole antenna and everything along with it -- will I be able to install this one, or will I still need some extra parts?
  18. I have a bunch of spares I got from Power Brake Exchange when I had them rebuild my brake booster — want one? DM me an address!
  19. You might be able to attach a drill chuck (or something else that spins) to the input shaft of the oil pump and spin it up outside of the vehicle. With the pickup submerged in oil, you should be able to better observe what's happening, and if it's actually pumping. Full disclosure: I've never tried this myself. Be prepared to make a mess ?
  20. So the spiral in the stock dizzy shaft acts like a reverse Archimedes screw to pump oil down, out of the distributor? Clever!
  21. Planning a road trip? Or just some nap time in the garage? Also -- how do you like your procar seat? Seems like people have been able to get them to mount up such that you sit a bit lower than stock, which sounds nice for me. I'm not that tall but I'm not a fan of hitting the roof with my head! My stock seats are pretty beat and make my lower back sore after 20 minutes.
  22. Does your tach do anything when it misfires? If the needle drops or bounces around, thats a sign you’re not getting spark and it’s an ignition problem.
  23. Son of Marty's suggestion is a good one -- much better than sucking on the hose with your mouth. You'll also be able to see if there's any air getting into the fuel lines if you use the clear hose. You can try skipping the fuel tank entirely -- just run a rubber line from a jug of gas, into the fuel pump, and then into the car. Zip tie or otherwise secure the jug of gas to something for safety. Meanwhile you can check the fuel sender filter, clean the tank, replace the fuel lines. Probably don't go for a test drive like this (but i'd be lying if I said I never have)
  24. Nice work on replacing that starter!! I also did some wrenching at the show — deduced that a bad condenser was causing my misfire. Luckily I had a few spares… of almost everything. Had a nice little caravan down from San Jose this morning. Great weather, too FullSizeRender.MOV
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