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Summit321 123

Solex
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Everything posted by Summit321 123

  1. Does anyone know a part number for the bolt so I can try my local dealership.
  2. Hi all, I am restoring my seat hinges and am looking for a few little widgets. I couldn't find a seller for the chrome bolts with the 17 mm flats and I needed to drill one of mine to get it out. Also one of the little springs inside the hinges was broken. If anyone has these lying around please send me a message. On another note I found a plate of some kind that a previous owner had bought in a box of parts and was curious where it goes. Does anyone recognize it. Maybe transmission...
  3. Thanks for the help everyone! I ordered a new set of bearings and all spins good. I got my timing cover on and my new head gasket looks kinda funny. I don't remember the screw holes being there near the fwd lwr timing cover. I know people say to put sealant there but does it look right to you guys? Also should all the cooling jackets holes be opened up?
  4. I'm just using tacky assy fluid thinned out with some oil. I flipped two of the end caps and it spun much better. Is there any way to make sure the rods are facing the right way?
  5. Packaging was a bit weird and not really labeled but they looked good.
  6. I will double check the caps. There was no direction indicator on the pistons they are from ross, but they I think I have them the right way from the picture. Can I still see the rod pin oil hole?
  7. Hi all, I am rebuilding my engine and ran into some trouble with torquing down my connecting rods (40 ftlbs). I had my crank shaft polished and it is original size. I am using new stock conn rod bearings. Crank becomes very difficult to rotate with one rod torqued and it is impossible with 2. I am using two flywheel bolts and a long screwdriver to rotate it. I checked bearing clearance and it is about .0025 which I think is normal. After torque and one rotation the bearing on the rod cap side had coating loss and scoring, mostly on one side. The other had a bit also. Side clearance is .005-.007. What am I doing wrong? Rods backwards? I'm using 50/50 assy fluid/oil. Not sure if I uploaded the pic properly. Thanks, Summit
  8. Update on the project. I inspected the rockers and found that there was material missing from some and the rest were cracked on the surface that rides on the cam. I replaced them all and built up the head with new stem seals the other day. Valves and guides were good so thats all I replaced there. When dissassembling the timing cover I found my water pump was in pretty bad shape. I snapped a few bolt heads, couldn't even pry the pump off because they were corroded inside the bolt holes so bad. Eventually I got the pump off and found the impeller badly corroded. I suspect significant loss in displacement which may be a contributer to the overheating I had. Some bolts broke off flush so I left the timing cover at the machinist to remove. No need to make a mess it 😆 Sometimes having a tii really is a curse. Man that is an expensive pump Yesterday I finally heard from my machinist that .030 was all he needed to take off the cyl. to clean it up. I have been in touch with tech support at Ireland Engineering and they told me they could have them made for me at that size. The set I am interested is their custom forged M10 set. Can someone confirm that 3.534 is the correct bore size for me. I've double checked the numbers but its a big spend non returnable. He miked the crank and said it came out well all true and straight so no problem there.
  9. Thats what my engine builder said. They must've beat that ring on because it isn't going anywhere. That piston is scrap. I'm dropping my engine off for him to assess if the scoring and pitting that piston caused is servicable or it needs to be bored. I don't like what I see but I don't have enough experience to make that judgment call. I was getting ready for a pain job anyway, looks like its gonna be engine out 😀
  10. Heres the rub, no pun intended. I continued with dissasembly into the bottom end for a few reasons. One of the primary reasons being peace of mind. I respect that you are able to say oh well I could've avoided that but peace of mind was important to me. I'd rather put in the time now that have bigger issues later and undo all of my work. Next was the advice I recieved from the technician at the machine shop. He was not convinced that my only problem was in the top end. I trust his expertise, I have gone to him before and had good work, professional, wasn't getting any more cash out of me for it. He warned that if even one ring was sticking then I would never get good compression. I had a damn good opportunity to make sure it was all good down there and he told me to go for it. What I was able to see from above. Three glossy polished cylinder walls and one with some scoring. I felt like it was important enough to hone those barrels and that it would make it worth while to have that increaced assurance for long term engine health. Also for me was the warped head. Clearly a sign of overheating with potential damage to rings. Considering my experience I would not advise everyone removing their head for whatever reason to remove their pistons just because they can. I would recomend that they think long and hard if it would make sence for them considering their particular situation. Dissasembly and trouble shooting go hand and hand and you may come to regret it for coping out and not finding the root problem. In my line of work I see people avoiding that critical step because they dont want to deal with what they know they will find. Two rings welded in. Cyl 1 C2 and oil control. I got the oil ring off by snapping it piece by piece. The ends are butted up on C2 on that piston and I haven't managed to remove it yet. 69015561926__E0B8F113-5AF5-4F4D-BFB1-E26C96504E32.HEIC69015409828__EF25203F-EBFB-4ED4-8F9C-33EAC5BA5823.HEIC
  11. Mileage is 65k. Block is still in I would've taken it out by now but I just bolted up the transmission for some work back there. I am trying not to go off the rails but rings are relativly inexpensive and I dont know when I'll have it broken down to this point again.
  12. I hadn't thought of that. I wasn't looking for binding or anything when I removed the cam but it seemed to slide out fine. Would that in turn cause out of round of the camshaft? Is it worth putting a dial indicator on it.
  13. He said it needed to be flat before he could test it. I was already thinking it was a good idea to deck it so I let him go ahead. I am interested in the table of limits he was looking at because according to the image above his action is beyond limits. Summit
  14. Will do. I dissasembled the head yesterday and dropped it off at a machine shop. He got back to me today and said it had already been ground and 15 thou was removed. He noticed it was still warped and that he would need to remove another 7. According to spec he said that would leave it just within limits. Does anyone see a reason not to go so thin? I dont think he pressure tested it yet. Valve guides were good but stem seals are bad. Based on his observations he thought the most likely source for leaking was the stem seals and warping. Parts: Do I need new head bolts? Is there a thicker head gasket or P/N anyone recomends for my situation? Anything that is seriously recomended that I replace in the valve train (Springs, rockers, ect.) I am pushing the pistons out for new rings while the head is off and honing cylinders any recomendations for specific P/N on rings? Any thing else in bottom end (connecting rod bearings, or wrist pin) Thank you all for your responses.
  15. Yes right out the exhaust ports. Heavy stream at first then seemed to clear up. I should've clarified. I had a puddle on my creeper which happened to be right under after just a few seconds😅
  16. IMG_1178.HEIC Ah very interesting I hadn't realised that before. You can see a seam of oil coming out of this stud I pulled. I dont think this is what I observed however. I pulled the manifold off origionally to investigate oil leaking past the gaskets, and running down the side of the engine. Judging by the sheer amount of oil and the fact that it was an issue before the studs came out I doubt this was the root cause.
  17. I changed the oil when I got it but it hasn't been driven or registered in 25+ years. I got it from a friend who had it garaged for 20 years and I have been restoring it for the last 4. It has about 60k on it which is when I saw that the seals tend to go out. As for fuel I rebuilt the fuel injection pump, electric pump, and put a new belt. I really have been trying with the fuel and think its alright now. I've only been around the block with it so I couldn't really tell you about performance issues but my spark plugs and contacts were wide open so it could've been weak spark and incomplete combustion.
  18. I'll find someone tomorrow and see when they can take a look thank you.
  19. '73 tii I think my head is cracked. I had my exhaust manifold off to investigate and oil ran out of cyl. 2,3,4 when I first cranked it, smoked, and cleared up. This leads me to suspect oil leaked down since the last time I ran it, was forced out when I cranked and then burnt out. My vave train is coked pretty heavily and smelt strongly like combustion gasses when I took the cover off. I continued to remove the head. Head bolts were quite sludgy and wreaked of burnt oil. I inspected the head gasket and combustion chamber, and besides light scoring on on cyl. 1 (the only one not losing oil), no defects noted. No coolant or oil contamination. No compression test was performed before dissasembly. I parted out a '72 2002 and have its engine components. It never ran nor did I attempt to get it going so it's mechanical condition was entirely unknown. I tore into it to compare it's condition and it was very clean up top, reinforcing my suspicion of combustion gasses getting up and oil getting down. With just a rough visual inspection, it seems alright. Assuming my bottom end is sound, it seems to me that I have 2 options: 1. Top overhaul. Have head tested for cracks/ flattness. Replace valve stem seals/ valve guids. 2. Swap for spare. I read that the 121 head was superseeded by the E12 so can I go backwards? Not my no. 1 priority but how much of an effect would this have on my car. I have lots of pictures but not sure what to include. I was ready to start firing the parts cannon but I'm trying to think through the puzzle first. Any of your thoughts are welcome. Cheers, Summit
  20. Man the stories that car would tell. If you do decide to part it out I would be interested in the rear seat. Might be a stretch but let me know, thanks. Summit
  21. Summit321 123

    Summit321 123

  22. Mine are 4.5 I can send you a picture when I get home you will probably want to have them refinished but the original caps fit fine on them. Summit
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