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Max02

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  1. Bit of background. Bought the car with no engine or trans, but use to be an auto. The engine harness and electrical cables were all disconnected and peeled back, I had to also pull them through the firewall when painting the engine bay. The car had some aftermarket alarm installed at some point and wires had been spliced and modified. I have since installed a m20b25 from a 1992 325ic auto - 80k mile engine. Used the 2002underground kit to mount the engine and Getrag 5 speed. Everything is in, have had custom mounts made for AFM and rad, oil relocation from CAtuned. I have been stuck trying to get the engine to start...... Here is where I stand. I have followed the 6 does go into 2 guide and the 2002 conversion guide. I have spliced the wires to what I believe is correct. When I turn the key I hear the engine electrics start, lights that are still hooked up come on inside the car and the door buzzer. When I go to start I get fuel and the engine cranks, starter motor seems to work fine, as do my fuel injectors. I replaced the crank sensor just as a precaution and everything seems to be fine. I CANNOT GET THE CAR TO SPARK. This past week i spent money on buying a new ignition coil, distributor and rotor, just to be safe. I also tried wiring the coil straight to the batter with a separate on off switch. I have the valve cover grounded, I have the original m20 oil pan ground mounted (new cable) I have the ECU grounds mounted on the engine block and the ignition in the car has its ground to the car as well. The ONLY cables connected coming through the firewall are to the fuse box and the few cables that connect to the E30 harness. Everything else is not connected. There are two relays that are meant to be in the fuse box that are not currently connected. The wires behind the steering were also moved around with the aftermarket alarm so I had to do my best to place things back where they should be. I also have a separate fuel pump that I run on a cut off switch from my bus bar. The battery I am using is for the e30 has been relocated with a racetep kit and is mounted and grounded to the rear strut tower. Power runs through the car to my bus bar where power is distributed to the red 2002 wires and other m20 cables that need power (not the ECU - it is connected to the green wire on the 2002 harness). Regardless of my wiring between the 2002 and m20 my understand is that my m20 should still fire if I am getting power to it and it is cranking, sending fuel into the cylinders and the coil has power. The one thing that is different is I am using the ECU the m20 came with, which is a 525. Could this be the whole problem? I wouldn't think so, not when everything else seeming to operate correctly. There is no clutch installed yet, but the trans is in neutral. No safety switch to the trans either at this point. I will attach some photos. Things that I have had to rewire are the fuse box, the relays in the fuse box, and the cables behind the steering wheel. If anyone in the bay area is interested in stopping by my garage that has knowledge with this sort of thing, I have my car in Redwood City. Otherwise can anyone please help me with what I've got going here.
  2. Thanks for the pointers. Cars been non op for a while, in great shape, was an automatic (bigger trans tunnel), clean title, extremely happy I found it. The engine was out of the car when I bought it, had been rebuilt (yes I know, why not use it? Wanted a turbo m20 to begin with so sold the engine to pay for my new one and much more). M20B25 off a 92 E30 325ic, 80k miles, pulled it from a totaled car so it ran prior to the accident (got carfax to check it was running). That photo was more of a here's my car and less detailed on the wiring. Still need to check exact compression, but it all sounds good when I turn it over. I ran through the whole engine when it was out of the car to make sure everything was in good condition and cleaned what I could. I'm unsure about the coil. After trying to start it a few times I went and touched the ignition coil and it felt hot so I'm guessing that's a good sign. The coil has its own power and ground so I think my problem is ECU/engine power related. I do have books for both, but with the wiring having already been pulled back, cut, and out of sorts with the old aftermarket alarm, doesn't make it easy. The auto has additional relays which could be causing problems, still unsure. I am going to spend some more time this weekend, I'll make sure everything is grounded properly, but I did run a meter on it and things seemed good. If I can't figure things out soon on my own I will post detailed photos, but still really hoping that someone with an M20 would pop their hood for me. I would happily take a drive to look at it. Seeing something in person is so much better than photos and drawings. I already looked at an E30 to make sure engine wiring is correct. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
  3. I am currently working to restore a 73 with an m20 engine. I have gotten pretty far along, but I am having trouble getting the engine to fire. I am definitely having some wiring issues and was hoping that someone local could provide some assistance. The car came with an aftermarket alarm installed which I have removed, but still unsure if some spliced wires are causing a problem. I do appreciate all the forms and help there is online, but there's nothing like looking at something in person. It turns over with the starter and I have an aftermarket fuel pump sending fuel no problem. My car is stored at my garaged in Redwood City, if you have an m20 2002 and want to stop in, that would be amazing, but if not I would be happy to drive somewhere if anyone is kind enough to let me take a look at their car. Thanks
  4. I prefer to take offers, I think most people here know the fair market value of the items. Who doesn't like price is right though? Let me know if you have any questions about the parts.
  5. Happy to ship if you pay. Please send me offers. Thanks Kidney Grill - Sold Steering Wheel Original BMW Turbo Flares and bumper Rear lights TurboGroup Fueler (have turbo and additional parts if interested) Seats My M10 is also still available - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wQYrdCVwf78-RckPo1RwDqcukYg6VEge?usp=sharing
  6. I'm installing a turbo bumper so wanted to hand this off. It's in pretty good shape, the portion hidden by the license plate is a bit rough and there is one deep scratch on the top. The top side shines well and I have the brackets for install. Check out the google drive for more in depth photos. Not 100% sure what the value is on this so please send offers. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mCCGLYuBqlhJoDfi6MBIRMoqRAFvAUxO?usp=sharing
  7. I recently bought a 2002 that came with this rebuilt M10 engine. I am not planning to use it so I will be selling it. The car/engine has change hands a few time since it was rebuilt in 1996, but the car went non op in 1998. The receipts show about $4k worth of parts and labor put into the rebuild (in 1996). California car/engine. It's super clean, it has a bit of grime built, but with some time you can make it nice and shiny. If you are local and want to come see it I am located in Menlo Park. Comes with the Weber and alt. I would suggest updating some of the nuts and bolts. I have the bracket that fits between the starter and intake man, I also have the bracket that goes on top of the intake man. Looking for offers, the money was put in, but it was 20 years ago. Put a $2000 price tag up as a holder, but mainly looking for offers. If you are not local but interested I will take the cost of shipping into consideration with the price. If you are a reasonable drive away (LA, Reno), I would consider doing the transportation myself. I took a bunch of photos and threw them in a google drive, the link has been tested on phone and computer so it should work. They were taken on an iphone so are .HEIC photos. If you open them in any browser you should be good, downloading them on a PC wont work unless you have an application to view them. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wQYrdCVwf78-RckPo1RwDqcukYg6VEge?usp=sharing
  8. Mostly body stuff, there’re a few holes in the body. You will definitely have to replace or weld some panels. I honestly didn’t look to close because I gravitated to the other car he had. There’s a good amount of surface rust in a few places, but it all can be sanded. I know he’s going to be a little tough on the price, Bay Area is a little inflated when it comes to classics, but it’s a roundie that has just about all the original parts. The rims on it are also pretty awesome. It’s best if you call him. I can text him with your number and give him a heads up if you’d like before you call. The one thing I will say is he doesn’t have much patients so don’t ask for him to send photos. He’s a good guy, but you gotta go see it in person.
  9. Yes it was. Not going to share that information, but I will take good care of it.
  10. I looked at the car. If you’re into cutting and welding, it wouldn’t be terrible. Expect to put some time into the body, but the car DOES run. If you’ve been over to see the car and asked about the other roundie, I bought it yesterday morning. I’ll be starting a thread for it soon.
  11. I had a deal fall through on a 1971. Still looking for a project, please contact me if you have something
  12. Is any of this still available? Thanks
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