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A6BigAl

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Everything posted by A6BigAl

  1. Thanks to Mike Self problem solved!!! Even though I had already checked them (I think I did so improperly) the issue was bad connectivity between the terminals ends on Fuse 12.
  2. Just had a thought- maybe the ignition switch? Turn signals are only supposed to work when ignition switch is in "run." Maybe something isn't getting power that is supposed to? I can't tell from the wiring diagram what that wire should be though or I would try to jump it to test...
  3. Ok... Now I remain baffled and frustrated. I have a second 1972 2002tii that I cannibalized parts from. Turn signals work in that car. Swapped out hazard switch, electronic flasher relay, and turn signal stalk switch. Parts from the malfunctioning car work 4.0 in the "test" car, parts from the functional car do not fix the problem in the original car, where the hazards work and the turn signals work only when the hazard switch is held in a very specific position (just prior to hazards actually turning on). In that "sweet' spot, turn signals work 4.0 with stalk switch. I am at a complete loss. I have run out every wire from the flasher relay, the turn signal stalk switch (both the switch side and the main harness connector side), and the hazard switch connector. All make the connections they are supposed to. HELP! THANK YOU!
  4. Thanks for the comment Mars! I maybe neglected to mention it before but I had done that years ago. My electronic relay works great with the hazards and works fine when the hazard switch is held to the exact sweet spot where the turn signals also function correctly with the turn signal stalk switch. Having gone through and traced out each wire in the system yesterday (disassembled turn stalk, cleaned terminals, checked turn stalk terminals to connector, harness-side connector to where ever they were supposed to go, hazard switch connector, etc) my only conclusion is that the new hazard switch I got must also be malfunctioning. It will only port power to fuses 5/6 when the hazard button is held in exactly the right spot, enabling the turn signal switch to function. Power should be ported to those fuses (respective turn signal side) whenever the hazard button is recessed and the turn signal is actuated. I'm usually disinclined to accept that a new part could be bad but having eliminated the turn signal switch, the wiring, the flasher relay, etc I am at a loss to draw any further conclusion. Got another hazard switch coming so we'll see... THANK YOU for the suggestion!
  5. Update: I have run every wire from the hazard switch through to the turn signal switch and their connectors (and through to the fuse box where applicable) and verified that everything is going where it is supposed to go with continuity. I think only thing I have left is to try another turn signal stalk switch, another flasher relay, and another hazard switch. I did not explicitly check all of the grounds at the turn signal lights themselves because they are all 4 working just fine with the hazard switch so I'm thinking they are good (same with the bulbs- I already verified correct type and the ones in there have been working fine for 18 months). Frustrating.
  6. More troubleshooting- On either the old or the new hazard switch I the turn signals work normally when I slowly release the hazard switch button toward the "hazards on," or button out position. There is a sweet spot just prior to when the hazards actually take over (all 4 flash) where the turn signals work normally. I took the old switch apart but am having a hard time seeing which of the contacts may need adjusting so that where that "sweet spot" is it stays in it as the hazard button is held in the inner (hazards off) position. When I do hold the hazard button in the “sweet spot” where the turn work normally, they continue to work (as long as the hazard button is held in the sweet spot) regardless of whether the ignition switch is in OFF or RUN. And because the new switch functions exactly the same way now I am totally confused and can't figure out what else could have changed or be wrong (in the sweet spot on both switches the turn signals work normally- I wish I could just bypass hazard system all together to get my signals to work.)
  7. Thanks Mike! I thought I had isolated this to the hazard switch also, bought a new one from Rogers, and still doesn’t work. I think the new switch is bad. I say this because with the old switch I could move the button slowly through it’s range of motion and find a spot where the turn signals would work fine. With the new switch I can’t even find that sweet spot. My switch is a 6 prong, no resistor type. Will PM you
  8. Ok- I know there are a ton of threads about turn signals in here and even one or two about turn signals inoperative while hazards still work but I still can't figure this one out having read through all I could find and troubleshot to the best of my ability.... Both hazards and turn signals worked fine for years until a few days ago, when turn signals stopped working (no dash light, no flash). Hazards worked. I replaced the hazard switch. Problem remained. I had previously done the electronic flasher upgrade (love it) and seems to work fine with hazards. With the ignition key in the "off" position, the grey wire going in to the turn signal stalk is powered up. If either left or right turn is selected, the appropriate grey/green or grey/black wire is powered and the commensurate side turn signal lights (front and back) are lit solid (no flash). That's with the key off. Turning the ignition key to the "run" position, no power at all goes to the turn signal stalk on any terminal, no matter where the turn selector is. For some reason I thought turn signals only worked with ignition in "RUN position but I can't find that link either in the car on on the wiring diagram. Hazard lights work normally and flash with key on or off. I cleaned the contacts inside the turn signal switch but as noted above the stalk switch (as confirmed with multimeter) seems to be working. The only time I get power to the green/yellow wire on the turn signal stalk (and the hazard switch) is when the hazards are on, when the power pulses with the flash of the flasher. I never get power to the turn signal stalk at any other terminal at any other time (except when key is OFF as noted above). I'm kind of lost here. Flasher relay seems to work. Hazards work. Light's all flash with hazards, Turn signals only light (solid no flash) when turn is selected on turn signal stalk and ignition key if "OFF". Otherwise all dead. Since lights all work with hazards I don't think it is the typical grounding issue that is so common for turn signal troubleshooting. Any help from the electrical gurus would be much appreciated. THANKS!
  9. Thx mint! had one of those timing lights for years and use it everytime! I've timed both cars exactly the same but have not mapped out advance curve for each so it is possible they differ. I'm pretty sure one has the 002 and one has the 008 dist, but will have to check.
  10. Did you tune it across all ranges by adjusting the linkages or through the "verboten" screw? THANKS!
  11. Thanks for offering up the tuning guide Jason- I tried to PM you but for some reason it wouldn't let me. I'd love to read a copy. The car that chugs gets 25+ mpg on the highway if I'm at 65 or so. Both of them seem to run great- I've just been curious why one can easily accel in 2nd from a slow roll (starting at maybe 11-1200 rpm) while the other one won't accept that load without chugging. My linkages are tight and correctly dimensioned, I believe, and I've tuned the tuna-can in coordination with the idle set-screw to achieve a smooth idle and accept throttle without stumbling as it sits in idle with no load. That could be a contributor since I know at least one of the guides I read recommends tuning the tuna can using a CO2 meter (I think it was CO2, which regardless I didn't have). At any rate if you wouldn't mind emailing me a copy of your guidance I'd appreciate it. a6eholdings@gmail.com THANKS Jason! Alan Armstrong
  12. Xavier- Thanks for the correlation. My other one takes a small load at low RPM just fine. Break: Jason- Other than the mechanical linkages I haven't messed with AFR (were you suggesting touching the "verboten" adjustment on the K-fish?). Is it possible to be lean just at lower RPMs? Just looking at plugs if anything I would have guessed the car in general is running slightly rich, but I know that is caveman troubleshooting in the age of AFR instrumentation! THANKS!
  13. Thanks Son of Marty- I think I mentioned that I had done all that. Linkages are tight and to spec in both. Tuna can adjustments/idle set for good steady idle (about 900) and smooth off-idle acceleration/transition in both. All ignition components have been replaced. Timing the same. Both have high compression, and pull smoothly and very strong when winding up. It is just baffling that the one with the less advantageous differential gearing can take a mild load at low rpm in 2nd/3rd and one cannot do so without chugging. Appreciate the thoughts!
  14. irdave and dlacey- good feedback. Since both run really well it may be that I don't waste a ton of time/energy trying to make them identical. I still may try the easy things like swapping distributors and perhaps checking AFRs and/or K-fish suction/delivery valves but maybe I will end up being politically correct and "embrace the diversity" inherent between the two 50 year old cars if the culprit does not readily surface... THANKS again!!!
  15. Great additional inputs and I appreciate it! Will look harder at fuel delivery (I've never messed with the suction/delivery valves and I've been toying with installing an AFR gauge anyway...) and it seems entirely plausible that perhaps the two distributors, while achieving the same advance ultimately, might be getting there via different paths and causing the one to stumble. I have changing the fuel pump on my list of things to do with the one that chugs (it is much noisier than the other one), but I'd be surprised it that could be a contributor since the car runs so well in all other areas of the envelop. The gearing is the same from 1st to 4th between the two transmissions (I've checked the rpm vs trans vs rear end vs tire size) and the one that needs 2000+ rpm in 2nd/3rd to take any small load has a 3.91 vs a 3.64 rear end, which should help it. Next time I have both cars co-located (one is in a hangar 45 mins away) I'm going to swap the dizzys and see what happens... I wasn't clear enough in my original description apparently- I never expected either car to be able to take a heavy load from 1200-2000 rpm, but I find it curious that one easily takes a gentle accel (like starting from 2nd while rolling slightly and picking up speed slowing, or sustaining up a gentle incline) with no issues and the other chugs below 2000 or (until downshifting or until the clutch is depressed and the released with some rpm behind it). It would be easy to just chalk it up to a weak motor as well but the one that chugs has high compression and pulls very strongly- just not below 2k. Maybe a cam has been changed along the way but I wouldn't have expected that with a tii... I'll keep investigating and appreciate the ideas from all of you. THANKS!
  16. Appreciate the inputs and criticisms. Point of original post is that, while not ideal, an engine (even a delicate tii!!!) should be able to take some degree of low-rpm torque at light throttle without immediately chugging. My other tii, the one with the 3.64 rear end, is a perfect example of a motor that runs, in all other respects, similarly to the one that chugs except in this particular part of the envelope and takes some part-throttle, low rpm operations seamlessly. I was wondering if anyone had ideas on why the two seemingly similar engines might be different. Looks like only constructive inputs were to see if timing curve might be different or perhaps if the K-fish is delivering a different AF ratio (check with O2 sensor). Any other thoughts welcome and appreciated.
  17. Linkages are tight and timing, set dynamically, is identical. Makes me wonder if it could be a function of the advance curve though- maybe the springs in the distributor are worn in the 5 spd and it is advancing way too early...? I guess swapping distributors would answer that.
  18. Thanks! Both are timed to exactly the same spot so still a bit confusing to me... Will certainly double check though. Appreciate the input!
  19. Thanks for reply! That was my initial thought too except that the one that lugs has a higher ratio (3.9 vs 3.64) than the one that doesn't so should be less susceptible to lugging I believe...
  20. Been scratching my head on this one and thought perhaps some of the experts out there might have insights... I have two '72 tiis. One is a 4 spd with a 3.64 rear and the other is a 5 spd with a 3.9 rear. Both have high compressions and pull strong as they wind up smoothly under throttle. Both idle and accelerate smoothly. What is baffling me is their very different behavior at low rpm under a load- the 4 spd can take a load at 1200-1500 rpm in 2nd or 3rd gear (under part throttle for instance, accelerating up a mild hill) and smoothly power through it while increasing speed. The the 5 spd cannot. If a load is applied to that car at rpms below 2000 in either 2nd or 3rd gear (starts from 1st gear are normal), it jerks and lugs and hesitates until either the clutch is pushed in and then released again with some rpms/throttle (as if you were starting off the line from 1st) or until one downshifts. Both cars are timed the same, both use Pertronix pickups, both have new plugs/wires/cap/rotor. I've gotten into the fuel/air delivery system on both just enough to replace o-rings (both are plastic runners), verify no induction leaks, replace sloppy linkage ball ends, and to mechanically adjust each system for smooth running/starting behavior (idle speed, fine adjustment inside "tuna can," linkage lengths, WUR, etc) to get them where they both seem to run well (both at idle and full throttle), I have not messed with injectors or K-fish on either car. I'm baffled why one lugs under a load at low rpm and the other takes it smoothly. Am receptive to any ideas... THANK YOU!!!
  21. Think I now have this covered thanks to Mr. Fahuna. Thanks for the responses! FYI- draining the Redline MTL (that was only a few months old), flushing with brake cleaner, and replacing with 85/140 hypoid gear oil and Ford Type F ATF (~2:1) virtually eliminated the gear noise in my old transmission and it shifts MUCH better.
  22. Old thread but super helpful to me!!! My '72 tii was also not starting after it had cooled down a bit after running just fine. Went through ignition and entire cold start circuit only to discover an incorrectly adjusted WUR was the culprit (coolie hat was adjusted too high causing overly lean condition as engine cooled) . Fires right up now whenever! I sure appreciate those who participate in this forum.
  23. In Atlanta. THANKS!
  24. Looking for good condition (tested!) Getrag 245 as eventual replacement for the one I have installed (that is starting to get noisy and doesn't always slip easily into all gears). THANKS!
  25. I'm in if another production run is ever made. THANKS!
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