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Greg fr Denver

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  1. Apparently I slightly under-priced these wheels, which generated several quick responses, and so they are now sold. Thanks to everyone who expressed an interest. Greg S. -
  2. Set of 4 Cromodora CD 32, 5 1/2J x 13” magnesium alloy rims from 1960s-70s. The wheels are in need of refinishing, but have very good tires mounted and can be used as-is. Wheels are sold only with the tires. I'll deliver at no charge within 100 mile radius from Denver, Colorado. Otherwise, buyer pays actual shipping costs. Internet indicates these wheels were produced in the 1960s and 1970s, and should fit the BMW 1600, all 2002s, some Fiats, and also the Opel Rekord, Kadett, GT 1900, and Manta. $400. Thanks. Greg S. -
  3. The reproduction spoiler that I originally listed in this thread (and misidentified as an original Kamei) is still available. It is $200, with the buyer paying for actual shipping costs. As for the inquiry about shipping it to London, the buyer will have to do the legwork to figure out how it should be packed and what shipper to use, and I'll follow whatever instructions they provided. Thanks. Greg S. -
  4. With the additional info, I have no problem dropping the price to its market value. But to figure out exactly what the market value is, I may need to list it on eBay. I not interested in the head, thx, but I'll certainly consider any substantially reduced cash offer (by you or anyone else) that would save me the eBay hassle. In re Greyhound, I agree shipping is very reasonable, but I tend to worry about damage and items getting completely lost. But I'll ship in any manner a buyer wants. Greg S. -
  5. New and mint condition - never used Kamei front air dam. This is made of urethane or resin, not fiberglass. It has sharp edges and has never been painted or had screws put into the mounting holes. There are no identifying marks on it and its history is unknown. It could be a knock-off, but certainly not the later-made Electrodyne, which apparently were not well made. Unfortunately, I have no mounting hardware. There is some glue that was spilled onto the upper right corner - shown in picture - which I'll leave for buyer to remove. Re Shipping: Whatever type of shipping you want, I'll work with you, and the costs will be what they'll be. It's light, but an awkward size and not made of steel. (If l were the buyer, I'd want it crated in wood, particularly if it were going to be sent in the hold of a bus.) Better solution would be for me to drive it and meet someone half way - about 400 miles would be my max. I'd charge for the basic costs of the road-trip, which I'll call $100. I'd enjoy some time on the road right now anyhow. Thanks. Greg S. -
  6. Thanks to all for the input & pictures. Getting advice on this forum is like drinking from a firehose - it's not quite too much information, but its always much more than I'll be able to use. One small follow-up question: the foam on the wheel is in great shape, but way too slick. I have a temporary wrap on it that doesn't look good. Is there a way to recondition the exterior to give it more tack? I'm wonder if it would be worth trying to stitch a nice leather wrap - but not sure a novice could do it well enough? "I'll hang up and listen" - Thanks again. Greg -
  7. My '74 came with a steering wheel identical to the one shown below - and no working horn and the automatic return on the blinkers also not working. The wheel has been identified by some as a "Petri Black" 350mm with foam, not leather. I've dug into the problem on the forums and it appears there is no standard or common solution, or maybe no solution at all. The problem: The original BMW setup had the horn slip ring (3233111222) attached to the steering column and a spring-loaded button in the steering wheel to make contact. This wheel is basically reversed, it has the slip ring built into the back of the wheel itself. I don't see any way to make the original and aftermarket compatible. Past discussions have talked about horn components for this steering wheel possibly coming from a VW Sicrocco of the same period, but I cannot find anything. Any solutions or ideas would be appreciated. _____ As for the signal return, I have a retainer (32311110904) that I believe should trip the blinker, but it fails to extend out far enough to hit the mechanism coming out of the stalk. This seems unrelated to a change in steering wheel, but maybe not. The only think I can think of is that it is not the original retainer. I suppose it would be possible to fabricate something new, that extends out further, on a small lathe, but not sure it's worth it. _____ Finally, does anyone know of a source for the 4" or so plastic shroud/cover behind the steering wheel (that looks a little like a small Devo hat)? Thanks for any help you might be able to provide. Greg -
  8. Thanks for feedback. It does indeed look like hold-down for chop saw or something similar - in fact, once it was suggested, it almost seems obvious. Next question (ten minutes) will be harder. Thanks.
  9. Purchased my '74 last year and now have excess time to do some small things that might not otherwise done. Previous owner included a lot of spare parts, but I was not able to readily identify this one. Is this a tire hold-down? Is this for a BMW 2002? Assuming it is not something incredibly rare and valuable, can anyone make use of it (as I currently don't intend to and will otherwise just toss it)? I have several other minor questions stockpiled, but I'll post them separately. Thanks for the help. Greg S. -
  10. Great - that’s what I needed to know and picture very helpful. In morning I’ll start scrapping off the undercoating with the hope that everything is still intact underneath and the rods will bolt right up. Thanks. G -
  11. I purchased my first 2002 (1974) in the fall of last year, and tucked it away for the winter. I now want to start work on several things, but am stumped by this problem. The forward part of both rear axle push rods were unattached to the body or frame when I bought it. There is a lot of crud sprayed on the underbody and I can't even see where the bolts that attach the rods are intended to go. Nor have I found the answer in any of the diagrams online and, unfortunately, I don't have access to any other cars to crawl under and look. Is there a nut that was welded underneath to the body or frame that is now missing? Is there a hole in the body that I can't see, where a nut is located inside the car, like under the seat or carpet? Explanations and solutions would be very appreciated. GS -
  12. Greg fr Denver


    An attractive daily driver that currently (10/2019) needs refreshing under the skin and hood. Ideally, in a year or two I'll replace the drive train with mild power and a four-speed.
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