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  1. Thanks everyone. I installed a O2 sensor bung this past weekend and am just waiting for a few more parts before I start up the car again. Hopefully I'll know more soon. After I cleaned up the linkages in the KF system and also disconnected what I suspected was a faulty cold start injector the car idles very high (~1400rpm) and slowly comes down to about 1100rpm. I was planning on looking into this more once the AFR is working.
  2. I was just thinking about this the other day. I moved from Toronto the Bay Area a year and a half ago. The automotive support is very different here (but then it's almost always great driving weather). That being said, it's a trade off on other things. Online shopping has really changed the landscape for retail stores. I was shocked to find that typical "types" of stores just don't exist at all. To be completely honest, once I started finding some of the issues on the Tii I wanted nothing more than to go to my local Candian Tire!
  3. Thanks Mark, thinking I'm going to go that way soon. I've got a pretty big list of places now. No kidding, I think I had 50 tabs open today, searching everything I could. I think the hardest part is that one search reveals one idea and then the next one the person says the opposite.
  4. Thanks Mike. I appreciate it. As frustrating as today was with the car I do feel like I learned a lot about the KF system and how/where you make adjustments. Just wish it wasn't right after purchase. Looks like fixing that wire didn't do anything to help me out. I guess it makes sense, the alternator is already mounted to the engine, lots to ground to. Anyone know an easy way to check the alternator? I read that you shouldn't remove the battery load on the 2002's so I'm hesitant to do it the old fashioned way ... remove the battery and see if it stops running I am feeling a bit overwhelmed so maybe it's time to take it somewhere.
  5. Quick update, more time under the car has revealed that the alternator ground has sheered off. Fixing that now.
  6. Thanks again everyone and thank you markmac for that article. I'll be sure to read it. Me playing with the car today has revealed some real concerns. All over the place. I'm feeling a bit frustrated at the situation and like I've bought someone else's problem. Bit of regret in buying the Tii. Started a thread here for it:
  7. Hi, Last week I bought a Tii and now there have been a ton of problems, so many I don't even know where to start anymore. There are many observations I have that I'm hoping someone with Tii experience will be able to help with. Maybe they are all connected, maybe they are all separate. I could really use some help from someone who knows a bit of the Tii's eccentric behavior. Running cold: The thermostat gauge sits just barely above cold. Is this normal? Where do they typically sit on Tii's? Running rich: This started my deeper investigation into the car. After adjusting the verboten to stop gap the car wouldn't start at all. I then tried to put the gap back where it was previously but still couldn't start the car. I read that when adjusting the top hat you can spin the internal cylinder valve and then the air input doesn't line up correctly. I disconnected the bottom air inlet on the WUR and installed a new hose and blew into it ... no problem blowing air through. I then spun the threaded rod the top hat threads on (what could have twisted if anything twisted) blew again and had no difference in air flow. I concluded that this isn't the case for the threaded rod and set it back to how it was before I touched anything. While waiting for the car to dry out, assuming I had flooded it I inspected and adjusted all KF linkages and returned the verboten gap to 2.6mm. When I went to try to start it again I also noticed that even though it was 90ºF out the cold start injector was spraying pretty heavily so I disconnected it. Tried to start the car again but this time the battery was too far gone and the car was likely still flooded. I pulled the fuse for the fuel pump and boosted the car to get it turning over again, surprisingly it started up and idled to 3000rpm (with no pump fuse). I let that run until it started to go out, shut it off, plugged the fuse back in for the fuel pump and took it for a ride. It felt a bit better but was idling way too high, now at 1500rpm and staying there. Low RPM was much more responsive but the higher RPM's felt a bit like they were occasionally hesitating, but no back firing. I had assumed that maybe the cold start was always acting up and maybe the previous owner tuned the tuna can idle wrong. Feeling a bit better about everything I pulled back into my driveway to check things out. WUR was still only extending 7-8mm vs the 10mm it should but see my comment above about how the car appears to run cold. Thats when the car idle dropped and it stalled out ... and then the car would not start at all. Battery not charging: Is the alternator connected directly to the battery or is there a voltage regulator? Wiring diagram looks like it's connected directly. Is there a fuse for the charging cycle? Idle too high: Other than the tuna can are there other components that might effect idle? Could the fact that the car appears to be cold be sending a signal to another device that is artificially inflating the idle? Weird electrical behavior like blinker indicator light only flashing a couple times before cutting out. How are the fuses on these older cars? I noticed strange behavior from the interior dash lights, like going in and out. Should I address the fuse box first? Any chance bad fuses could be causing the car to run rich, idle to be too high or battery to drain? My theories: Alternator looks pretty recent but considering a 10min drive ended with a battery that couldn't even turn over the engine AND the fact that the car stalled once the battery was empty leads me to believe that the alternator isn't so great. The car isn't getting warm enough because the thermostat is incorrect or stuck open, this is keeping the WUR from fully opening letting a bit of air in and leaning out the engine at higher RPM's causing the hesitation The cold start relay is pooched and it was constantly adding too much fuel, even after warm up. The previous owner tuned the tuna box even though this issue existed and now that I've unplugged the cold start injector I'll need to retune the idle Alternate theory: In adjusting WUR and linkages I accidentally unplugged something that is causing chaos Sorry for the super long post. Any insight from anyone would be very helpful. I was previously considering dropping the car off to get the fuel system tuned and deal with the richness of the car but now with all these other problems I am hesitant.
  8. Update: I thought about my Verboten screw a bit more and am worried someone had fiddled with it in the past. It looks like it's protruding further than others I've seen online. Based on what I understand, backing this out would actually lean the system out a bit. I've asked the question to the forum here: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/248787-tii-did-someone-mess-with-my-verboten-screw/
  9. As I'm trying to track down why my car is running so rich I spent some time around the WUR. The plastic cap over the Verboten screw was missing and I'm not sure if someone has moved it before. I took a pic when the car was fully warmed up and the screw had bottomed out. From other images I've seen online this looks like it's protruding further than others. Anyone out there looked at enough of these to know if this looks messed with? Thanks!
  10. If anyone is interested, I spent some time with the car today myself, mostly focused on the warm up regulator. When "fully warm" I noticed that WUR had only opened about 7-8mm, instead of the 10mm mentioned in the guide, but that being said the verboten screw had bottomed out and the top hat was extending past the hinge so I'm not sure if the WUR would have had an impact going the full 10mm. I did adjust the top hat when the engine was cold so the verboten screw is 2.6mm from the stop, it was actually sitting closer to 1.5mm, but again I don't think this would impact the running rich when warmed up. I haven't checked the linkage lengths, I'll look into that tomorrow. It did make me think about how I've noticed the thermostat gauge is usually pretty low, I don't think I've ever seen the meter above 30% of it's range. Is that typical? Or should it sit closer to the mid-point? Just thinking if the thermostat is stuck open or the thermostat the previous owner chose opens at a really low temp this could explain why the WUR only opened 7-8mm. ... waiting for the car to warm up really did remind me how bad this car is smelling when running. Maybe the fuel in it is super old, I haven't had to fill it up since I got it but it's more of an unburnt fuel smell.
  11. Chargin, what's going on here? Looks like you added a wideband O2 sensor and modified the "Fasten seat belt" box with an LED numeric display to show the AFR? That's a really cool idea!!! Again, this is all amazing information. I'll let you all know how I get on with this.
  12. Thanks everyone! This is really great info! I'm on the west side of the bay but most of these are close enough that they shouldn't be an issue. I've heard good things about Motorspeed West for BMW's in general, wasn't sure about Tii's. I believe they moved to Fremont, but still close. All that being said, I think I'll start with some reading of the system and maybe give it a shot myself first.
  13. Amazing, thanks so much! I was going to spend some time going through the registry and reading up on the pump. Wasn't sure if there was going to be setup instructions. I'll keep my eyes out for it.
  14. Hello, I just picked up a Tii and the more I drive it the more I realize it's running pretty rich. I'm reading up on the fuel injection system but I may just take it to a place to get it tuned. Does anyone know of a shop in the San Fransisco Bay area that knows how to tune a Kugelfischer? I've only been doing city driving and I'm sitting at around 15mpg, plus its got a pretty strong "I'm running rich" odor which I don't think is typical of these systems 😛 Thanks!
  15. Thanks everyone! I'm going to go with Mike's.

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