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bujbot

Solex
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  1. Thanks Buckeye, I ended up going this route today. It made a big improvement but I can still feel a tiny bit of air with my hand (its barely there when the pipes are hot but I can still feel it). I'm not sure if I will run some more on the joint with my finger or consider the RTV.
  2. Will the cement hold so tightly that it can never be removed? That's my biggest concern. I was thinking the high-temp RTV because it can be removed with a sharp knife (and is flexible).
  3. I have the stock downpipe so it has the flared end on both side. I also do have the correct support.
  4. Thanks, would I coat the donut with this just before installation? Is this the standard way to install one of these gaskets?
  5. Good luck Wes. I'd be down but date won't work.
  6. Hi, I've been struggling for over a month now to get the donut exhaust gasket to seal (gasket between the downpipe and the resonator pipe). I've tried : Repositioning it a few times Getting a new gasket Under tightening Over tightening More recently I noticed a hairline crack at the joint on the resonator side, thinking that was likely the culprit I replaced the entire exhaust system (the old aftermarket one also had a hole in the muffler) but that also didn't stop the leak. My last resort is to install it with some high-temp RTV ... that is messy so I figured I'd ask here before I go that far. Thanks!
  7. Hi Dave, I sent you a PM on some Tii exhaust parts. Center pipe, muffler section and 2 hangers. Thanks!
  8. Nice, looks really clean. Your picture makes the knob look like it's glowing!
  9. Here are some pics (not sure why I couldn't add pics to the opening post).
  10. Hi everyone, I wasn't a fan of how the shifter shaft would spin continuously. When reading up on it I learned that this happens when the internals inside the shaft start to loosen up a bit. I also learned that this is normal for the cars age. The proper fix appears to be to take the shaft apart and replace the worn out parts. I recognize that what I did was a bit hackey, but it is non-permanent and has stopped the shaft from spinning. I picked up a 1/2" bore shaft collar from amazon (4 pack for $8). Tighten this onto the lower shaft, under the large flare. I pressed up against the flare to add some friction. Then I took some thin strips of electrical tape and wrapped it around the 1/2" collar (the flare and the collar are almost identical in outer diameter, this helps take up any slack). I then added a single strip of electrical tape on the flared part. Afterwards I took a hose clamp and placed it half on the flare, half on the collar and tightened it up good. Nothing special and stopped the spinning. Just remember to line up the logo on the shifter first! Hope this helps someone in the future.
  11. Hi everyone, Reviving an old thread so that it can be closed out. Here is how you wire up the 6-pin DIN on the back of a mono vintage radio to have AUX in (including switchable plug). I used a switching plug so that it's on radio until you plug in something and then it goes to AUX. I used a mono plug because it's what I had in the house (and it's a mono stereo). If you want stereo you can likely just short the L and R channels before the 4.7kOhm resistor. You'll notice that when there is no jack plugged in the radio signal also goes through the 4.7kOhm resistor. I did not notice a drop in volume due to this. Hope this helps someone in the future: (quick edit: when I say "stereo" I mean the stereo/radio/amp head unit itself, not a stereo audio signal)
  12. Thanks everyone! And thanks Rob, that's a great way to check all the aspects of the circuit! Your thread where you were struggling with cold start helped me rethink the problem. So today I checked out the cold start circuit in its entirety. I noticed the wires going into the thermal sensor itself were very cracked and old looking. One of the wires even split when I unplugged it. So I rebuilt the plug. I also removed cold circuit PCB and changed all the electrolytic capacitors and a couple diodes that were giving weird readings. Generously used some contact cleaner and put it all back together. Started up on the first crank. I'll need to try Rob's procedure to confirm it is shutting off but I did unplug it and watched the AFR ratio and it didn't change. Thanks for everyone's help here. Now on to the high RPM idle and then tuning the fuel ratio. I'm going to check out that hose that goes from the warm up regulator to the intake some more. I had actually removed it previously when checking out the warm up regulator. After I reinstalled it the idle would still settle, unlike now. Maybe there was a small tear that got worse. I do want to ask if the warm up regulator piston is truly rotational sensitive. I've adjusted it quite a bit and there's a chance I've rotated 10º or so. Should I try rotating it and seeing if the idle settles? Or am I looking like I'll cause another problem?
  13. Thanks, I'll check this out. Faulty meaning is has cracks/holes in it? Or is there some internal parts that aren't visible?
  14. Ok, I'll play with plugging it back in tomorrow. I had found this thread which got me very excited but that I attributed it to cold weather and thought it wasn't applicable. So just to confirm. The cold start injector is ALWAYS needed to start a Tii? I guess the threads I had read about unplugging this maybe were related to a non-Tii?
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