Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About hozzziii

  1. Yes! That's what I was saying, but somehow things got escalated, which was far from what I wanted. I agree it's a little extra work, I just want the hose to be secure in there and not be dangling around next to all those pulleys and belts in front, bad experience. I could just totally make a clean block-off plate and just make an inlet on it, and just run a hose or even a totally seperated pipe in front. Just thought this idea would look cool. Yea I have no idea what to do with turbo cooling line. I do know that those things get HOT, like around a thousand celcius during spirited driving. So, not really sure what to do about that.
  2. I apologise for frustrating you my friend. Clearly I have a lot to learn.
  3. Yes, our good friend also pointed that out, he said the best solution is to throttle the pump down very low, easily programmable with the ecu.
  4. My God I just read through the whole thread and just realized I mentioned dumping on top of rad even after you said I can't, I am so stupid, I apologize for frustrating you. Just too many thoughts circling around in my head. Very good point sir. Alright, so, please correct me if I'm wrong, and thank you for your patience. From what I understood, it's fine to do the whole "Passthrough" setup and just run the heater outlet through the housing and into the pump inlet for the low pressure, am I correct? Also, what are your thoughts on the turbo coolant drain line? do you think its a good idea to somehow insert it into the "water branch flange"?
  5. The pump mentioned in this post is actually the exact one I had in mind! They had the exact same problems too, great thread though. From what I understood, the most common solution was to just delete the heater. Hmmm, I still drive this car year-round. Also one of the gentlemen there had a picture of the coolant circuit, which is very useful!
  6. I didn't know that. Fair point. I don't know about this, honestly it doesn't feel right to me. Any other suggestions? Like, flow restrictors or something? I am trying to avoid this problem that I mentioned above, I am trying to make sure nothing skips the rad and loops around. I think I read somewhere that's a known issue to BMW and that's why they designed this system with an external thermostat to counter temp fluctuations or something, not sure where I read it.
  7. On second thought, I don't think this is actually a great route to take 🤔 Because if you think about it, there will be a "stream" of coolant, that can go through the block, into the heater, and into the pump, back into the block. Hmmmph, that's a no-no. I think maybe in order to make sure all of the coolant circulates the system without skipping the radiator, I should make sure the heater outlet goes to the rad. So I think I should modify the top housing on the engine, and put both turbo and heater outlet there, preferably before the temp sensor, to make sure the changes in temps caused by the heater or turbo are picked up by the sensor. This feels like a better route to me. Any ideas? Thoughts anyone?
  8. I will be doing exactly this. I think I see where you may have misinterpreted my plan here, maybe I didn't clarify so well. I plan to run the two inlets of the old pump as the outlet of the heater, and while I have removed the impeller and pulley, I will weld a half pipe of some sort to the inside of the pump housing! Making the two inlets, just an aluminum pipe. This will make sure the flow goes directly from the heater outlet, all the way through the pump housing, into the new electric pump inlet (I will put a T in there to merge radiator outlet and that incoming hose). Also I will cut into the end of the pump housing, maybe weld a fitting in there too, straight into the block inlet and since the two old inlets are completely blocked off, I should be alright. Oh and let's not forget, I will also take a small hose off the electric pump outlet and run it to the turbo too, to cool the turbo as well. Haven't really decided where to route the turbo water outlet yet, might put it where the old second outlet at the top of the engine was, which we decided to block, could put the outlet there, straight into the rad. How does that sound Preyupy? Think this will work?
  9. Well this is the same plan, only I am keeping the heater. We have very cold winters where I live, it's not a question of should I keep the heater or not, I have to. I agree it makes it complicated, but you see the benefits of the electric pump too. I can't think of anything simpler than that.
  10. I drew another diagram to make things simpler for myself to understand. Also to show off my artistic talent 😆but please ignore my handwriting, I was excited. So you can see what I mean by the "Passthrough" arrows, utilising the both ends of the old pump, frankly I really like that idea, very neat location, and goes in front of the engine without making a mess. And also where I have to cut into the pump housing, I checked, its a clean area, I can cut through there, and make it the inlet. Don't think this will be an issue.
  11. I totally agree with that second part. About your first statement, I thought that was the case. So I was thinking, maybe I can keep the return hose from the heater in the original location while also keeping the other end the same. But inside the original pump, I remove the blade and the pulley part outside, then weld a half pipe to make the pump housing act like a pipe! Therefore the heater outlet comes to the original location, goes through that half pipe, and inserts into the T at the new pump inlet, and merges with the radiator outlet. I know what you're thinking, what about the new pump outlet? Well, we can make a hole, right in front of that rectangular inlet in the block, and we're in! Just have to make sure the flow of the heater outlet and the block inlet is completely seperated. And yes I have to block off the top of the block that went to thermostat housing. So, what do you think?
  12. Well, I have two arguments here. First, the route you suggested makes perfect sense. I also thought I could just replace the thermostat housing with the electric waterpump and, like you said, feed the water into the block. However I think there is a problem here: the pump has two inputs, if we call the large rectangular hole on the timing cover output, one comes from the thermostat, the other comes from the right side of the engine. I've seen people run a long pipe from there almost to the back of the engine, is that the second input for the pump? Or is that the return path from the heater core? I can't see mine, it's just blocked by all the manifold and carburator and stuff. Second, yes I will be running a heater, I am actually. I'm confused, why do I need a T fitting after the heater? Can you elaborate? I had the heater blocked off because I was suspecting a leak in it, then changed the o-rings on the valve, and hooked it up. From what I saw, it has an inlet and an outlet that both go from and to the engine, am I mistaken?
  13. Also notice that on the thermostat housing I have drawn a circle where the actual thermostat blocks the coolant if its closed. So when it's closed, the coolant just keeps looping around the engine, am I right? And also, next to the water pump, I pointed an arrow and I wrote, "Behind". That's becuase I have no idea where it goes, due to my lack of knowledge here.
  14. Hello everyone My first post here, hopefully first of many I've been doing some research about a project I'm currently planning, and I have noticed that the good people here have a very deep understanding of the engine I'm working on, so I'm asking the question here. I have an E30 with the M10 engine, and I'm planning to do turbo upgrade to it in the future, currently I'm reading everything I find, I learned a lot from the megasquirt efi build on the faq here. I live in a very hot climate, and currently with the stock radiator and waterpump, my car cannot sustain "spirited driving" in this hot summer, or even long distance casual cruising between cities. Not that it has blown up or anything, just that the temp gauge goes a lot higher than it should. So, while planning the turbo build, I have decided to get a turbo with oil AND watercooling, to extend the life of the turbo. With this choice, I have also decided to get a bigger radiator, electric fans, and also electric water pump. And we arrive at the question of today: what is the actual route of coolant in this engine? I'm asking this because I want to erase the mechanical water pump, and get the electric, so it moves more water, and can also keep cooling the engine, while it is off; I've noticed the temp goes high after turning it off, because of the heat soaking effect I'm told. So, where do you think I should put the electric pump? Also second question, I'm going to control this pump with the ecu, that is going to decide pump load based on engine coolant temp, so if it's cold, it wont run, if it's a hot day, it will keep running even after the engine is off, so I don't think I need the regular thermostat anymore, am I correct? Also based on what I can see from looking at the engine, I have drawn a very, very, simple diagram as to how it looks, but I haven't figured out the direction of the coolant flow, so, maybe you can help me out. Thank you for your help

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.